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pprv delete necessary on auto

1K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  CalBoy101 
#1 ·
I had the pprv delete on my boosted 5spd GT. Is it necessary with an auto? My auto Mach will have the Vortech on it next month. I hated that the car sometimes would not start when you flipped the key or had to cycle the key 2 or 3 times.
 
#7 ·
Yours is a stick right not an auto? How much restriction does it actually remove? I think its a couple % of duty cycle. If there is no hesitation with an automatic id rather keep it.
 
#9 ·
I removed mine since I was in there. Didn't want to deal with the headache if it may have caused a hesitation with the auto, plus it seems like a restriction.
 
#10 ·
One thing that guys don't realize about the stock fuel rails is you can't see the biggest restriction.

Underneath the large looking main inlet fitting on the passenger side fitting is pretty tiny hole.

But its easy to get rid of that hole and also rework the crossover inlets for better flow, the rails themselves have pretty large internal volume and flow plenty.

Here's notes on what I did to mine, although when they went on the car I swapped the pipe thread type y block shown in the pics for an AN one, AN8 in, 2 AN6 outs to the rails using 5/16" ID FI hose.

I also used a damper in each rail feed for better flow rather than a single damper.

(see post 5) Do i need larger fuel rails?
 
#12 ·
JP, there's no doubt the stock rails will support a lot of power as is but I do think the mods I showed in that link help with 2 issues-

Less pressure drop from the pump by eliminating the small hidden .15" inlet hole on the passenger rail, giving a probably a couple of percent duty cycles back to your pump when WOT.

Less pressure difference between the two rails by feeding them with a y block instead of a daisy chain.

With the stock daisy chain feed, on a high HP build you will see a little higher pressure on the passenger side than the driver's side, causing the drivers side to run a little leaner.

How much pressure drop? Not sure but its a cheap and easy mod to do, all hand tools and then bumming a quick tack from someone with a mig welder if you don't have one yourself.
 
#14 ·
Regarding the low buck fuel rail mod, I went back and looked at some datalogs of runs before and after I put in the modified rails.

There is some variation in these runs but pretty much prior to the rail mod my max fuel pump duty cycle ranged from 80% to 83%.

After the mod it was ranging from 77% to 80%, so it looks like the mods got me at least 2 to 3% duty cycle reduction.
 
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