Hi All,

So I decided to get an aftermarket steering wheel and am in the middle of installing the hub. I got the clock spring out and instead of totally taking everything apart I removed all the pins from the connector housings so I could just pull the wire through without disassembling the ignition barrel, PATS etc etc. That's all fine except for one wire, black with pink stripe, its connected to the ignition what is this for door chime? Can I just cut it?

My other question is the connector that is coming from under the dash is a male and the FORD OEM HORN CONTACT SWITCH with the spring loaded prongs is a male also, how does one make connection without disassembling the male connector under the dash and making it a female? Also where the hell does that spring loaded side of the connector mount to? Any help is much appreciated, thanks in advance

---------- Post added at 07:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 AM ----------

After further inspection I'm guessing the dual prong switch is not plug and play and it is what is inside the clock spring assembly.

One more question, I noticed the steering wheel has two wires and two connection points, the ford harness has two wires but the hub has 3 with three contact rings how does this get wired?

So after some messing around I ended up coming up with a solution, I figured I'd share in case someone gets in to the same predicament.

So first things first to do this install you,ll have to remove the battery connections and let the car sit for at least 1/2hour because youll be working with the air bag system and the last thing you want is that thing to go off in your face. Once the cables were free from the battery I took both battery cables and tied the terminals together with a bolt and nut to quickly dissipate the air bag capacitor's charge. When you shut your car off the airbag system has a capacitor which holds a charge for some period of time and keeps the airbag system energized until it drains out.

Next you'll need to remove the plastic knee panel and the metal knee panel under the steering wheel, they both have two bolts holding them in place, the plastic one however has some clips up top as well, should come off real easy.

you can follow these instructions here for removing the steering wheel FR500 Mustang Steering Wheel Installation Guide | AmericanMuscle

I also used this video to get to the clockspring assembly
I did this part a little differently from the video. I didn't remove the key tumbler I kept all of that in place including the PATS box/connector. I undid the air bag connector (brown) and the horn/cruise control connector (light grey)

If you watch the video he points out where all the clock springs clips are for removal which can easily be removed with the top half of the steering column in place. Another thing he mentions is that there are 3 screws holding the two column halves together but in our cars there is 4. Another thing I did differently is I took all the pins out of the connectors coming off the clock spring assembly going into the main harness.

You'll need a small flat blade screw driver, the light grey connector if you look inside you can see little tabs that can be bent. While hoilding the wire to be removed with a little bit of pull use the screw driver to free it. The airbag connector is a little different, first you have to remove the red saftey clip inside the connector, this can be done by flipping to the backside of the connector there is a little slot the the screwdriver can fit in and push up on the red safety tab causing it to come out where the pins are. The pin removal is than similar to the the other connector.

Once thats done you can pull all the wires through the opening. There is one wire left thats keeping the hole assembly still attached and thats the black wire with a pink stripe going to the key tumbler, this wire controls the door chime when you have the key in the ignition. You can either disassemble the tumbler and its corresponding components to remove it intact or just cut it, which is what I did.

Once the clock spring assembly was removed I noticed there were three holes located on the steering column. I took some measurements of the the hole locations with respect to the steering shaft and sketched up a bracket. I have access to a cnc laser cutter so I cut mine out of 1/8" acrylic. I measured the two prong horn switch connector and mounted it to the bracket utilizing its two pins and hole to fasten it to the panel. 1/8" is probably the thickest you want to make it other wise the the prongs will bottom out and you could potentially have the connector housing rubbing on the MOMO hub's slip rings. I will add a dimension drawing up later for anyone who wants it. I forgot to take a picture of the just the connector and the bracket. Dont mind the zip ties I didnt have the right size screws laying around but heres the finished product.







I then cut the purple and the black wire from the clock spring harness assembly and mated it to the horn contact switch end like so



I then followed my diagram of the connector before I disassembled it and reconnected the purple and black wire to the light grey female connector.



Dont mind my hairiness

Now to deal with airbag issue I followed CliffyK's advice found here https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post5057342 which worked like a charm. I could not find a 2.3Ohm resistor anywhere so I got these and when put in parralel the two 4.7 Ohm resistos become 2.35Ohms which works out.



I then wrapped the connector in electrical tape and called it a day. Now to the steering wheel horn wiring.

The steering wheel comes with a single green and yellow wire with two female spade connectors on each end, I cut this wire in half and crimped on some ring terminals and massaged them to make connection the plug coming out of the hub. This is not the ideal way of doing this but its just what I had to temporarily get this thing hooked up. I believe I have the mating side connector at work so I may just fix it. A side note if using the ford OEM horn contact switch the spring loaded pins will only make contact with the outside rings on the back of the hub, so the red and black wires will be the only ones used here.



Slap it all back together and here is the finished product



The steering feels awesome its just leaps and bounds better than the stock wheel so far Im pretty satisfied.

Im still not finished with this, if you notice the backside of the hub exposes the inside of the steering column and the bracket I made. I also have access to a 3D printer so Im going to make a clam shell that just sits over the hole thing and hides it. I will update as I go along, hope someone finds this helpful.

hmm. I have the no horn problem. I may just hook it up now that you posted this. thanks

No problem man

Ship I got around to making a collar to hide the back of the hub, sketched something up real quick and 3D printed it, it's my first iteration it may change.











I'll upload the sketch of the connector plate tomorrow

Ive attached a 1:1 template of the mounting bracket, you can either print it out and use it as a template or use the dimensions shown on it, hopefully this is helpful. The thickness of the bracket is .125" thick any thicker and I think you may run into issues.

Attached Thumbnails

MineralGreyGT,

I came across this thread in my Google search for Momo steering wheel installation - excellent write up! I liked it so much that I joined to say kudos to you!

I plan to use your bracket PDF to make one for myself. Would you be interested in selling the file for the cover you made?

I would definitely be interested in the 3d printed collar design as well!