Dropped valve changing springs! - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Dropped valve changing springs!

Long story short id really like nothing more than to not take the heads off but if i have to then i will. The vavle is still in the guide but my magnet doesnt fit in there to grab the vavle and pull it back out. Has this happened to anybody? Any options other than removing the heads?

Last edited by nothin.but.a.stang; May 14th, 2016 at 09:45 AM. Reason: Pictures added
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post #2 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 09:52 AM
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Not really. Unless you can pull the header and potentially grab the valve stem and push it back up.


Next time, rotate every cylinder to TDC when you change the springs. The valves will drop a bit, but not much
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post #3 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 10:53 AM
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I agree to pull the header or intake depending on which valve it is.

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post #4 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 11:28 AM
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Hopefully you won't have to pull the head off.
If the valve is still in the guide maybe you can get away with rotating the engine over slowly.
I'd try compressing the cylinder first with air.
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post #5 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Its barely in the guide but i can look in the intake port and see it (intake is off). I believe the issue was i didnt have a big enough compressor because i had air to it but it dropped anyways....the compressor was slowly losing compression (it was a small portable one my buddy has) you think i can get sway with rotating the engine without bending the valve? Its at an odd angle obviously and it kinda seems sketchy to do that. I didnt think about taking the header off that might work. Im swapping those out anyways so i need them to come off.
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post #6 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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So i now see where i fucked up and i have no idea why i didnt see it last night. The cam lobe on the exhaust valve is slightly past the round part of the lobe...which i would think means the echaust valve is slightly open and thats why i was losing my air pressure. Does that make sense to you guys? Sry im new to this. Its my first motor ive opened and its a learning experience.
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post #7 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 01:49 PM
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Get some long needle nose pliers and grab the valve to put it back up the guide. Also you can try to magnetize the tip of a screw driver by sliding it over a strong magnet and sliding it down the guide to pull it up.
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post #8 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 02:43 PM
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Try a little a super glue on a nail head, let it setup then pull the valve out, the glue will peal right off the tip of the valve once you pull it up.
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post #9 of 32 Old May 14th, 2016, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
Try a little a super glue on a nail head, let it setup then pull the valve out, the glue will peal right off the tip of the valve once you pull it up.
Good idea

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post #10 of 32 Old May 15th, 2016, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 67novajay View Post
Hopefully you won't have to pull the head off.
If the valve is still in the guide maybe you can get away with rotating the engine over slowly.
I'd try compressing the cylinder first with air.
Absolutely without a doubt...hell no. Do not try this
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post #11 of 32 Old May 15th, 2016, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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So is it ok to flip the motor upside down if its drained of all fluids? I have it on a stand and im pretty sure i could just rotate it and the valve will slip back out of the guide so i can grab it. Didnt think of this while i was frustrated and also forgot to mention it was on a stand in the first post.
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post #12 of 32 Old May 15th, 2016, 06:52 PM
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Yes, you can rotate the engine on the stand in an attempt to use gravity to pull the valve up. Do not attempt to rotate the crankshaft in an attempt to use the piston to push the valve up.

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post #13 of 32 Old May 16th, 2016, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
Try a little a super glue on a nail head, let it setup then pull the valve out, the glue will peal right off the tip of the valve once you pull it up.
THANK YOU!! gravity did not pull the drop the valve like i wanted but this worked great.

Now instead of making a new thread i have one more question.

Im also doing timing on this motor and i have a pretty good grip on how to do it. The only thing im missing is the position of the new cam after I take the old cam out. With the timing off, would I just drop the new cam in with the keyway in the same position that the old one was when I took it out?

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post #14 of 32 Old May 16th, 2016, 11:19 AM
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Your Welcome, glad it worked Is it a aftermarket cam or another stock cam?? Either way the cam only goes on to the gear one way then line up the dots like the factory call for.


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post #15 of 32 Old May 16th, 2016, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
Try a little a super glue on a nail head, let it setup then pull the valve out, the glue will peal right off the tip of the valve once you pull it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
Your Welcome, glad it worked Is it a aftermarket cam or another stock cam?? Either way the cam only goes on to the gear one way then line up the dots like the factory call for.
its an aftermarket cam CMS Stage 2 N/A to be exact. But i also I have a entire new timing kit so the gears cams and chains will all be off at once. Sry if im not understanding what youre saying, but, im asking when you drop the new cam into the head, will it only drop in in one position?

---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:44 AM ----------

wait. i think i understand now. once the chains are lined up with the timing marks on the crank gears then just rotate the cam gear(attatched to the camshaft) until the chains line up with the marks there as well. correct? then that will put the cam in TDC for cylinder number one and should be in the correct position assuming i have the number one cylinder in TDC before i take the chains off?

EDIT: I understand that TDC is a measurement of the piston so maybe i used the wrong term there. But basically that would put the cam (and therefore the valves) in the correct piston relative to TDC of the piston...does that make sense?

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post #16 of 32 Old May 16th, 2016, 12:02 PM
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Yes bolt down the cams to the gears then line up the chain marks on the Crank gear, then rotate the cam until the timing marks line up on the Cam gear... Be careful on the drivers side don't use that mark that protrudes from the gear if your has it cause its a false prophet LOL and your timing will be way off so use the indented DOT.


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post #17 of 32 Old May 16th, 2016, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
Yes bolt down the cams to the gears then line up the chain marks on the Crank gear, then rotate the cam until the timing marks line up on the Cam gear... Be careful on the drivers side don't use that mark that protrudes from the gear if your has it cause its a false prophet LOL and your timing will be way off so use the indented DOT.

awesome. Thanks for your help man i really appreciate it.

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post #18 of 32 Old May 17th, 2016, 12:49 AM
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Once you have both cams OUT of the heads (this should leave all your valves all the way up) rotate the crank to 12 o'clock then do NOT touch it again until the chains are on. (first two pictures show all pistons low enough in their bores at 12)

Now, install your new cams. You're now able to freely move the cams until you get the dark links to line up with the dots. (assuming you had CMS degree your cams for you already)

Release your tension on your tensioners and you're good to go. I'd recommend an oil prime before you start your engine again.

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post #19 of 32 Old May 17th, 2016, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1996 GT View Post
Once you have both cams OUT of the heads (this should leave all your valves all the way up) rotate the crank to 12 o'clock then do NOT touch it again until the chains are on. (first two pictures show all pistons low enough in their bores at 12)

Now, install your new cams. You're now able to freely move the cams until you get the dark links to line up with the dots. (assuming you had CMS degree your cams for you already)

Release your tension on your tensioners and you're good to go. I'd recommend an oil prime before you start your engine again.

actually im degreeing them myself. So they are not degreed in the box. I understand the degreeing procedure pretty well. So from what I understand I would just degree them before putting the timing back on correct?

thanks for the pictures and good tips!

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post #20 of 32 Old May 17th, 2016, 10:15 AM
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Yeah,im not sure you undersand degreeing after reading that.
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