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post #41 of 117 Old August 30th, 2016, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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When I get the head off today ill post some pics.

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post #42 of 117 Old September 1st, 2016, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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After struggling to get off what appears to be something for the heater, I finally managed to pull off the stupid head, until I realized that the dipstick tube goes through part of the exhaust manifold, an the piece that mounts it to the head cant fit through the hole of coooourrse. I can just pull out the dipstick right? Anyways, I stopped for tonight without accomplishing much, but I can get a clear view inside of the cylinders. They are equally bad as the other side (If not worse) and are wet. But here's a pic of the other side before I cleaned them up some:
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post #43 of 117 Old September 1st, 2016, 07:56 AM
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That is gross. Tme for new motor

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post #44 of 117 Old September 1st, 2016, 07:58 AM
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I'll let others chime in about the rust, but it looks pretty bad. As for the dipstick I did the exact same thing and broke mine. there is only 1 bolt for it on the head then it is just a push-in type connection on the block. I broke down and got a lokar flexible one since mine was ruined.

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post #45 of 117 Old September 1st, 2016, 08:12 AM
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Looks like there was a bunch of coolant sitting in there, one way or another, whether it was from a blown head gasket or from lifting the heads. You can likely get it back to condition, but you're talking more work in cleaning the deck and cleaning or even honing the bores.

For all the trouble of cleaning that up, new parts for the head gasket, and the as of yet unknown shape of the heads, getting a used engine might not be a bad idea, just from a cost/risk assessment. If you can snag one in the $300-500 range, it's probably about the same cost and easier.
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post #46 of 117 Old September 1st, 2016, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Well I already have everything to change the head gaskets.. The image you see was taken pretty much right after the head came off, so coolant didn't get in there from lifting the head. It was all dry in there already. All of the light orange rust came off, but there is still some rust in the cylinders that isn't coming off with just the rough side of a sponge. I haven't tried turning the engine over and letting the rings scrape the rust off, but that doesn't seem like a good idea, even if done gently. So i'm not sure what else I can try using to get the rust off. I have 2 hones, but neither are for this. I have one for a cr500 (dirtbike) and one for a rm250 (also a dirtbike). The one for the 500 definitely wont fit, but maybe I can gently rub the 250 one against the walls? Or will I just end up making my cylinder oval shaped or something. Maybe there's some chemical I could use? This is so frustrating, if it wasn't for this she would be driving again already...

On a side not, I can see that at least 2 of my transmission bolts have backed out a bit. Dunno why.

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post #47 of 117 Old September 1st, 2016, 08:48 AM
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take a current picture of the cylinders and lets see what you're dealing with

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post #48 of 117 Old September 1st, 2016, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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So this is about as good as I can get my cylinders with the rough side of a sponge:
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post #49 of 117 Old September 2nd, 2016, 04:28 PM
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Yuck

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post #50 of 117 Old September 3rd, 2016, 06:35 AM
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Seems to me you have two options, the first being the cheap one. Since you already have the parts for a head swap, squirt some wd40, or some kind of lubricant in the cylinders, spin the crank, see how much the rings can scrape off, clean it as good as you can, put it together and cross your fingers.

The next cheapest option will be a used engine swap. A good way to do it is to go on eBay, search within 50/100 miles or whatever you feel like driving, and look for any 4.6. These junk yard are idiots when it comes to listing engines. Last I looked, you can get an 05/06 grand marquis, or crown vic engine with 70k miles for $600 when 96 mustang engines were twice that with twice the mileage. There's a few cars that had pi engines other than mustangs, just get one of the ones from a fwd car.

The reason I say to look reasonably close, you can make them an offer for less, and if they don't have to deal with packaging and shipping it, they're more likely to accept.
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post #51 of 117 Old September 3rd, 2016, 06:37 AM
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I meant dont look for one from a fwd.
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post #52 of 117 Old September 5th, 2016, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soupnutz View Post
Seems to me you have two options, the first being the cheap one. Since you already have the parts for a head swap, squirt some wd40, or some kind of lubricant in the cylinders, spin the crank, see how much the rings can scrape off, clean it as good as you can, put it together and cross your fingers.

The next cheapest option will be a used engine swap. A good way to do it is to go on eBay, search within 50/100 miles or whatever you feel like driving, and look for any 4.6. These junk yard are idiots when it comes to listing engines. Last I looked, you can get an 05/06 grand marquis, or crown vic engine with 70k miles for $600 when 96 mustang engines were twice that with twice the mileage. There's a few cars that had pi engines other than mustangs, just get one of the ones from a fwd car.

The reason I say to look reasonably close, you can make them an offer for less, and if they don't have to deal with packaging and shipping it, they're more likely to accept.

Yea, thats what its looking like I'm going to have to do. If I end up having to swap engines, it probably will be a 460 that I have and it will end up being a project car rather than a daily-ish driver.

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post #53 of 117 Old September 12th, 2016, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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So I've finally reached the point where I'm going to turn it over and let the rings clean the rest. Only problem is, i'm not able to turn it over. On my dodge I could just grab the harmonic balancer and turn it over, but then again it wasn't filled with rust. Right now I have a breaker bar on the nut for the balancer and I cant get it to budge. I'm afraid to try any harder and break something. What else could I do, besides using the starter. I would like to do it slowly.

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post #54 of 117 Old September 12th, 2016, 07:10 PM
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you should be able to turn it over by hand using a breaker bar like you said. i know that this is obvious, but make sure that it is in neutral instead of park or in gear.

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post #55 of 117 Old September 12th, 2016, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 46L281GT View Post
you should be able to turn it over by hand using a breaker bar like you said. i know that this is obvious, but make sure that it is in neutral instead of park or in gear.
Doubled checked. Unfortunately not that simple :/

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post #56 of 117 Old September 13th, 2016, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
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Well I managed to get it to turn over. Not by hand though. And the starter motor wasn't even powerful enough either. I had my brother help push it and just put in gear and let out the clutch. But this took several tries. Even in 5th it skid the tires a bit before it finally started to move. Still can't turn it over by hand though. And the pistons didn't scrape out much rust, if any. But i'm relieved i'm finally getting something done. Past week I've just been scrubbing away.

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post #57 of 117 Old September 13th, 2016, 08:20 AM
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If you've got it this blown apart, I would say stop half assing things and pull the motor. I don't think a simple wipe and go is going to pan out very well. You're probably going to have a ton of blowby. Yank the engine, run a hone through, and throw some new rings on it.

If you do elect to keep doing this route, let some ATF and acetone soak in the cylinders for awhile. That will free up stuck rings pretty well.
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post #58 of 117 Old September 13th, 2016, 04:39 PM
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Its junk. Tear apart. Bore block. Or get another. All youre doing is wasting time

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post #59 of 117 Old September 13th, 2016, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
If you've got it this blown apart, I would say stop half assing things and pull the motor. I don't think a simple wipe and go is going to pan out very well. You're probably going to have a ton of blowby. Yank the engine, run a hone through, and throw some new rings on it.

If you do elect to keep doing this route, let some ATF and acetone soak in the cylinders for awhile. That will free up stuck rings pretty well.
I'll see about getting a hone and some rings. What hone do you suggest? Also I tried acetone, didn't work to great. I was thinking about trying some muriatic acid but I know it can cause more rust if I don't use it right.

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post #60 of 117 Old September 13th, 2016, 11:10 PM
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Obviously,you arent going to listen to the right approach here..good luck

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