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post #81 of 131 Old October 1st, 2016, 10:19 PM
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Okay im confused on the timing now haha. How do I find the end links on my chain?
If they aren't already marked, either by a copper color or paint mark, lay them flat on a table like this, and mark the two on the ends (the ones with arrows pointing to them) with paint.

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post #82 of 131 Old October 2nd, 2016, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so im having trouble getting the cams into position. So first of all, cylinder one should be at tdc right? If im outside looking at the engine, cylinder one is the one to my left and closest to me. And when I bring the notch on the gears that are on the crank to 6 'o clock, one of the valves are hitting the piston to my right and closest to me. But shouldn't that be at bdc?

From my understanding, to do the timing I bring the notch on the crank gears to 6 'o clock, which I assume is tdc on cylinder one, then I put on the timing chain with an end link on that notch. Then I rotate the cam until im able to line up the other end link to the notch thats on it.
Im really bad at this haha.. Sorry for all the stupid questions.

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post #83 of 131 Old October 2nd, 2016, 07:05 PM
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Put the notch on the crank at 9 o'clock. That's the "safe" position. Set the cams gears to have the notches approximately where they should be (no followers in, so all valves are closed.) Move the crank to the 6 o'clock, as seen on the diagram. Install the chains. Install the followers. Boosh.
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post #84 of 131 Old October 2nd, 2016, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Put the notch on the crank at 9 o'clock. That's the "safe" position. Set the cams gears to have the notches approximately where they should be (no followers in, so all valves are closed.) Move the crank to the 6 o'clock, as seen on the diagram. Install the chains. Install the followers. Boosh.
Thanks! Got it about where they should be, time to put the chains on.

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post #85 of 131 Old October 5th, 2016, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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So it rained and that delayed me a couple days. Now I have the timing cover on aaaand I realized I haven't put on the timing wheel (f2le-12a227-bc). I actually forget where it goes. I tried finding some pics and some show the inside and some show behind the harmonic balancer. I'm going to guess it goes on the inside.. Anyways if the rain doesn't come back I think I will be completely done tomorrow! (only to find that it wont start and/or still runs horribly). By the way is there some sensor that won't allow it to turn over? I plugged in a good battery and tried turning it over just to see if it would do anything and it didn't, just clicked. Or is it a problem.

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post #86 of 131 Old October 5th, 2016, 09:26 PM
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So it rained and that delayed me a couple days. Now I have the timing cover on aaaand I realized I haven't put on the timing wheel (f2le-12a227-bc). I actually forget where it goes. I tried finding some pics and some show the inside and some show behind the harmonic balancer. I'm going to guess it goes on the inside.. Anyways if the rain doesn't come back I think I will be completely done tomorrow! (only to find that it wont start and/or still runs horribly). By the way is there some sensor that won't allow it to turn over? I plugged in a good battery and tried turning it over just to see if it would do anything and it didn't, just clicked. Or is it a problem.
The timing wheel goes on behind the timing cover, in front of the crank gear, and the balancer holds it on.

If it clicks it's probably a power/ground issue. Keep in mind if you don't have the crank trigger installed you won't get any spark.
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post #87 of 131 Old October 6th, 2016, 10:13 PM
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Put the notch on the crank at 9 o'clock. That's the "safe" position. Set the cams gears to have the notches approximately where they should be (no followers in, so all valves are closed.) Move the crank to the 6 o'clock, as seen on the diagram. Install the chains. Install the followers. Boosh.
With no followers, any position is safe...lol

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post #88 of 131 Old October 7th, 2016, 01:04 AM
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Put the notch on the crank at 9 o'clock. That's the "safe" position. Set the cams gears to have the notches approximately where they should be (no followers in, so all valves are closed.) Move the crank to the 6 o'clock, as seen on the diagram. Install the chains. Install the followers. Boosh.
wish i would of kept the followers off probably would of made putting the passenger timing chain easier lol

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post #89 of 131 Old October 13th, 2016, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Mustang is in one piece! Well, other than the passanger's side exhaust. Its stuck, not wanting to move into place. Anyways, tried staring it today, turned over fine but it wont start. Thinking my fuel pump is dead. I don't hear it, and I pressed on the valve on the injectors and no fuel came out. Fuse is fine, and I unplugged where it plugs in on the back by the gas tank and to checked to see if it was getting power, and it was. So I guess I need a new pump. For some reason O'reilly's wants $699.00 for an oem one haha. Just going to buy a new motorcraft one i found on ebay for $30.

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post #90 of 131 Old February 7th, 2019, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Heyo! You may be asking yourself, "why would the great, inactive 1C2 bump such an old topic?". Well, the answer is quite simple! As few of you may know, several months ago I picked up a brand spanking new shiny 03 gt, fresh out of an accident. Well, they say history repeats itself, and lo and behold, I drove to work this morning and the car was running like ass. With the memory of what happened to my old car freshly forgotten, I frantically checked my oil cap to be sure it wasn't the same issue. Unfortunately, my oil appears to be a thick, milky cream, which further reinforces the nickname my friends have dubbed my car, the Cumstain. With exhaust flowing out of my coolant reservoir (and no coolant in sight) I calmly yelled at the top of my lungs, "FUCK".


Anyways, this time around I will do things more properly. I'm going to pull the engine, and before my cylinders get rusted the hell out like last time, I'll pull the plugs out and blow any coolant out of it and put a bit of oil in each cylinder. Already have that mostly done. Before I really start tearing into it, I have another car that I gotta fix so I have something to drive in the meantime. So expect it to be awhile before I start.

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post #91 of 131 Old February 8th, 2019, 08:03 AM
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On the bright side things are a whole lot easier the second go around. Soon you'll be able to pull an engine and rebuild it in your sleep.
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post #92 of 131 Old April 12th, 2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Alrighty time to start on it again! Got all new timing stuff, oil pump, water pump, all the gaskets, head bolts aaaand since I'm gonna have it all apart, some Comp cams stage 1 cams! Never done cams before, sooo I'm unsure about a lot of things, like how important it is to get new springs and such. It says I can re use them, but recommend I dont. I would like to re use them since I just spent a grand on parts haha. Any special tools needed? Any super duper important things to get/do or am I good to just slap them in and call it good? Also, I'd like to get some headers, any recommendations?

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Last edited by 1C2; April 12th, 2019 at 05:28 PM.
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post #93 of 131 Old April 12th, 2019, 09:32 PM
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Alrighty time to start on it again! Got all new timing stuff, oil pump, water pump, all the gaskets, head bolts aaaand since I'm gonna have it all apart, some Comp cams stage 1 cams! Never done cams before, sooo I'm unsure about a lot of things, like how important it is to get new springs and such. It says I can re use them, but recommend I dont. I would like to re use them since I just spent a grand on parts haha. Any special tools needed? Any super duper important things to get/do or am I good to just slap them in and call it good? Also, I'd like to get some headers, any recommendations?

If your heads are coming off, changing valve springs are a breeze, magnet on a stick and the compressor tool work wonders for getting the keepers out. As for comp stage 1s you dont have to change them, but i would if you want to rev over stock redline.. makes it more worth it. Valve spring compressor tool for a 2v mustang. The 4v one is different.

Also the comp cams have different cam bolts than the factory ones. So you will need to get a set of bolts. Google it. The info might be around on the forums. I ended up just using grade 8 bolts from a general hardware store. This was 5 years ago. So forgive my memory.

While the heads are off and you are doing your gaskets, i would change the valve springs. Bolt the cams in with cam gears in place. Leaving followers off the heads i would bolt the heads down to the block(dont forget to clean and put your gaskets on!&#x1f609;<img src="https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" /> that way you can spin your cams independently of the crank and the valves wont open to shake hands with the pistons. Then set your crank and cam gears to the appropriate positions, do your chains guides/tensioners. Double check the timing. Pull the pins. While rotating your crank, pop your followers back in. Then keep rotating to feel for resistance IE any timing issue that is obviously piston to valve before you start it up.. (Easier when you have the plugs pulled so youre not fighting compression)

I had those comp 262s, they were a fun set of cams. I threw it on some kind of trailer dyno when it was untuned and it made 289/308 or so. Then with a procharger it made 415/397 @9psi with 4.10 gears.. ran a buddies kenne bell 2.1 gt @11 psi on 3.27 gears and i put a bus length on him.

You will enjoy them. Very streetable.

As for headers, i really liked my bassani midlengths and off road x pipe, no loss of ground clearance, get the same power and sound as long tubes. JBA also makes midlengths with an off road H pipe.

And the biggest benefit i found was that i could pull my trans with the headers on.

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post #94 of 131 Old April 12th, 2019, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Alrighty time to start on it again! Got all new timing stuff, oil pump, water pump, all the gaskets, head bolts aaaand since I'm gonna have it all apart, some Comp cams stage 1 cams! Never done cams before, sooo I'm unsure about a lot of things, like how important it is to get new springs and such. It says I can re use them, but recommend I dont. I would like to re use them since I just spent a grand on parts haha. Any special tools needed? Any super duper important things to get/do or am I good to just slap them in and call it good? Also, I'd like to get some headers, any recommendations?

If your heads are coming off, changing valve springs are a breeze, magnet on a stick and the compressor tool work wonders for getting the keepers out. As for comp stage 1s you dont have to change them, but i would if you want to rev over stock redline.. makes it more worth it. Valve spring compressor tool for a 2v mustang. The 4v one is different.

Also the comp cams have different cam bolts than the factory ones. So you will need to get a set of bolts. Google it. The info might be around on the forums. I ended up just using grade 8 bolts from a general hardware store. This was 5 years ago. So forgive my memory.

While the heads are off and you are doing your gaskets, i would change the valve springs. Bolt the cams in with cam gears in place. Leaving followers off the heads i would bolt the heads down to the block(dont forget to clean and put your gaskets on!&#x1f609;<img src="https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" /> that way you can spin your cams independently of the crank and the valves wont open to shake hands with the pistons. Then set your crank and cam gears to the appropriate positions, do your chains guides/tensioners. Double check the timing. Pull the pins. While rotating your crank, pop your followers back in. Then keep rotating to feel for resistance IE any timing issue that is obviously piston to valve before you start it up.. (Easier when you have the plugs pulled so youre not fighting compression)

I had those comp 262s, they were a fun set of cams. I threw it on some kind of trailer dyno when it was untuned and it made 289/308 or so. Then with a procharger it made 415/397 @9psi with 4.10 gears.. ran a buddies kenne bell 2.1 gt @11 psi on 3.27 gears and i put a bus length on him.

You will enjoy them. Very streetable.

As for headers, i really liked my bassani midlengths and off road x pipe, no loss of ground clearance, get the same power and sound as long tubes. JBA also makes midlengths with an off road H pipe.

And the biggest benefit i found was that i could pull my trans with the headers on.
Lots of helpful info!! Thank you, I'll order some springs and look in to those bolts. I'm still unsure if I wanna do headers, what kind of power gain do you think I would see? If you think more than like 15hp then I'll probably get some, I dont wanna spend lots of money for a negligible difference.

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post #95 of 131 Old April 15th, 2019, 12:21 PM
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Alrighty time to start on it again! Got all new timing stuff, oil pump, water pump, all the gaskets, head bolts aaaand since I'm gonna have it all apart, some Comp cams stage 1 cams! Never done cams before, sooo I'm unsure about a lot of things, like how important it is to get new springs and such. It says I can re use them, but recommend I dont. I would like to re use them since I just spent a grand on parts haha. Any special tools needed? Any super duper important things to get/do or am I good to just slap them in and call it good? Also, I'd like to get some headers, any recommendations?

If your heads are coming off, changing valve springs are a breeze, magnet on a stick and the compressor tool work wonders for getting the keepers out. As for comp stage 1s you dont have to change them, but i would if you want to rev over stock redline.. makes it more worth it. Valve spring compressor tool for a 2v mustang. The 4v one is different.

Also the comp cams have different cam bolts than the factory ones. So you will need to get a set of bolts. Google it. The info might be around on the forums. I ended up just using grade 8 bolts from a general hardware store. This was 5 years ago. So forgive my memory.

While the heads are off and you are doing your gaskets, i would change the valve springs. Bolt the cams in with cam gears in place. Leaving followers off the heads i would bolt the heads down to the block(dont forget to clean and put your gaskets on!&#x1f609;<img src="https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" /> that way you can spin your cams independently of the crank and the valves wont open to shake hands with the pistons. Then set your crank and cam gears to the appropriate positions, do your chains guides/tensioners. Double check the timing. Pull the pins. While rotating your crank, pop your followers back in. Then keep rotating to feel for resistance IE any timing issue that is obviously piston to valve before you start it up.. (Easier when you have the plugs pulled so youre not fighting compression)

I had those comp 262s, they were a fun set of cams. I threw it on some kind of trailer dyno when it was untuned and it made 289/308 or so. Then with a procharger it made 415/397 @9psi with 4.10 gears.. ran a buddies kenne bell 2.1 gt @11 psi on 3.27 gears and i put a bus length on him.

You will enjoy them. Very streetable.

As for headers, i really liked my bassani midlengths and off road x pipe, no loss of ground clearance, get the same power and sound as long tubes. JBA also makes midlengths with an off road H pipe.

And the biggest benefit i found was that i could pull my trans with the headers on.
Lots of helpful info!! Thank you, I'll order some springs and look in to those bolts. I'm still unsure if I wanna do headers, what kind of power gain do you think I would see? If you think more than like 15hp then I'll probably get some, I dont wanna spend lots of money for a negligible difference.
If you need any more info when youre doing it feel free to chime in. I usually check this place a few times a day

Headers add a little, but most will say its not worth the headache and cost for the gains. When i did mine it qas for the sound... And it did not disappoint. If i were to do it again, money can be better soent elsewhere. Unless you get a screaming deal on craigslist or the classifieds.

Mmr900 4.75 striker. Stock heads, CMS stage 2 turbo cams, on3 67mm ball bwaring billet wheel turbo kit @12.7 psi
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post #96 of 131 Old April 15th, 2019, 03:19 PM
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I don't think I would even attempt to do this on an overhead cam engine.
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post #97 of 131 Old April 15th, 2019, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think I would even attempt to do this on an overhead cam engine.
It's not the wort thing to be honest. It's kinda a pain and time consuming but definitely doable. Worth the few grand I'm saving doing it myself

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post #98 of 131 Old April 16th, 2019, 03:18 AM
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I don't think I would even attempt to do this on an overhead cam engine.
Its not bad at all really
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It's not the wort thing to be honest. It's kinda a pain and time consuming but definitely doable. Worth the few grand I'm saving doing it myself
Oh, here is a really nice 2v spring compressor i have been eyeballing for a while. A bit pricey though.

https://www.euroexportinc.com/ford-m...ng-compressor/

They have normal springhmmmxompressors like the one floatijg around in my tool box.

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post #99 of 131 Old April 16th, 2019, 07:59 AM
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I guess the whole overhead cam thing scares me because I have never worked on that type of engine before. Maybe after watching some video of someone doing it I would feel better about working on them. Yes, I'm an old timer who grew up working on Pushrod engines. LOL!!!
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post #100 of 131 Old April 17th, 2019, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Its not bad at all really


Oh, here is a really nice 2v spring compressor i have been eyeballing for a while. A bit pricey though.

https://www.euroexportinc.com/ford-m...ng-compressor/

They have normal springhmmmxompressors like the one floatijg around in my tool box.
That looks really nice but I'm hoping I wont reed it that often. Hopefully i can just rent one. And Cali suuucks RPM wont ship me my cams because they arent CARB approved.. So now I gotta wait like a week to get refunded then find a site that will ship them, which I think I have. So much for starting this weekend

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