97 Cobra Project - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 6Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #21 of 58 Old July 3rd, 2017, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
Well i see Photobucket got greedy and is now charging people to post pictures on other websites, guess i'll go back and try and fix the pictures

Anyway another small update, after having new BBK long tubes ordered for two months and getting pushed back four different times i decided to call it quits with them and found a pair of stock exhaust manifolds on ebay, priced it out with a new catless H pipe and MIL eliminators, it ended up being cheaper then buying the BBK long tubes alone. Plus I won't have to deal with the hassle of installing longtubes. anyway here are the pictures of the new exhaust going on. I ordered a Ford Racing clutch kit that should also be here this week and hopefully installing all this next weekend. Happy 4th everyone!



akurma is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 58 Old August 26th, 2017, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
finally got around to working on the cobra, front rotors and pads along with an oil change. next up is dropping the trans to replace the clutch and install new headers, which look awful. I don't know why people love long tubes so much but oh well lol

















akurma is offline  
post #23 of 58 Old September 4th, 2017, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
Big update, i'm going to apologize for the quality of some of the pictures up front

Finally got around to the heavy lifting on this project. Since it's labor day weekend i decided to do some labor intensive work lol. Put the car in the air with plans on dropping the trans to change the clutch out. Then quickly realized i can't drop the trans with these stupid long tubes in the way, fought for a good two hours trying to squeeze a ratchet/wrench/swivel extension you name it up between the K member and motor and couldn't get all the header bolts out. However on the bright side whoever installed these long tubes were smart enough to put antiseize on the bolts so luckily none of the bolts snapped, but still a simple clutch job turned into dropping the entire front end Now i know i could have taken the motor out a different way, like taking the intake manifold out, and threading a bolt in where the alternator is and the bellhousing but i was honestly worried about the weight put on those two points and trying to finagle the engine and transmission out together as one without damaging or getting stuck on the underbody/firewall. Anyways it took me and the help of a few hands 16 hours to get it all out, could had gotten done faster but this was my first time pulling a motor and honestly not nearly as bad as i thought, although two of the K member bolts did snap simply because they were so rusted, one of the bolts was actually much thinner than the others. after the front was dropped i ended up cutting the headers off, one of the headers was so brittle it actually bent when i went to pick it up.Only mistake i made was i forgot to drain the transmission fluid, thought a glove taped to the output shaft would be enough.. boy was i wrong!

Now i do have a question regarding the clutch, the pressure plate has a "Valeo" stamping on it and if i remember correctly Valeo is the OEM manufacturer for Ford, and if i remember correctly again the factory pressure plate is silver in color not red? so is this an "upgraded" clutch kit ? i can't find any Valeo clutch kits with a red pressure plate for a cobra? if it was the factory unit, the pedal was ridiculously stiff and grabbed really high up.









































akurma is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 58 Old September 27th, 2017, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
got around to installing new studs and the "new" headers. for those wondering what header/manifold studs I used, I attached a picture below. They are Dorman brand part number 03411, they worked really well. installing the studs were super easy, applied some loc-tite to the threads that go into the head and antiseize on the threads that stick out hopefully making it a tad easier on the next guy. also found the production date of the motor on the side of valve cover, looks like its a early 1997. Also yes i have replacement motor mounts for those that caught how bad the current ones are lol











akurma is offline  
post #25 of 58 Old October 3rd, 2017, 09:52 AM
Newbie
 
DSG_Mach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 5
 
Garage
iTrader: 0 reviews
I like the color of this Cobra didn't know that it was so rare. Those old headers looked like they had seen better days. My Mach One has longtubes and when I had to change the clutch out we were able to take the transmission out without dropping the k member. The collectors on the headers could be removed which allowed us to remove the transmission.
DSG_Mach is offline  
post #26 of 58 Old October 4th, 2017, 05:30 PM
Hardcore Enthusiast
 
Mr_Calypso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: canada
Posts: 2,484
 
Garage
iTrader: 0 reviews
Awesome car and colour! And good progress.

I just picked up a 97 cobra myself in the same colour but it?s been in a minor accident with a wall. I plan on saving the car.

Also that?s valeo clutch you mention I believe is the king cobra clutch. I?ll be putting that same one in mine since the engine and trans is out.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	5E7AA3DC-F8AF-4859-BD5F-FF5A83048B52_1507149018067.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	23.1 KB
ID:	198514  

Mr_Calypso is offline  
post #27 of 58 Old October 19th, 2017, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
Got around to installing the resurfaced flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. super easy to do and yes i torqued everything to spec. Ended up going with a Ford Racing clutch kit, i didn't see the need to "over clutch" the car for the horsepower it's currently making. Anyways its a really nice clutch kit, comes with everything needed, including new pressure plate bolts, throw out bearing (ford OEM) and a pilot bearing. next up is installing the passenger side header, bolting the trans up and then putting the K-member back in the car and connecting everything back together which will hopefully be this weekend if not next. As always i'll keep this updated.














Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Calypso View Post
Awesome car and colour! And good progress.

I just picked up a 97 cobra myself in the same colour but it?s been in a minor accident with a wall. I plan on saving the car.

Also that?s valeo clutch you mention I believe is the king cobra clutch. I?ll be putting that same one in mine since the engine and trans is out.
I think i saw your thread on SVTperformance earlier today, i have this same thread over there since it's a tad more active, small world lol! nice to see someone else saving a car that most would just part out. Back to the clutch, I no longer think that clutch was a "valeo" clutch, after I researched some more it seems to be a RAM powergrip HD clutch which is a stage 3 clutch so that explains why it was so ridiculously stiff. Notice the center of the disk in the picture below they are identical. I guess RAM had Valeo produce the pressure plate for the kit? who knows all i know is that that clutch was wayyyyyy to much for the car.





Quote:
Originally Posted by DSG_Mach View Post
I like the color of this Cobra didn't know that it was so rare. Those old headers looked like they had seen better days. My Mach One has longtubes and when I had to change the clutch out we were able to take the transmission out without dropping the k member. The collectors on the headers could be removed which allowed us to remove the transmission.
Yeah the longtubes on this cobra had to be 10+ years old as i found all the other BBK stuff on this car has stampings from 2006, im actually surprised how rotted they were. Sounds like the long tubes on your Mach1 are higher quality lol
akurma is offline  
post #28 of 58 Old November 27th, 2017, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
Big update for this old cobra!

Had a nice long weekend off from work for thanksgiving and decided what better time then this to put the motor back in! It wasn't to bad as i got to look at a 1967 mustang GT fastback that is being turned into a Shelby GT500 clone with original Shelby GT500 parts all weekend while i worked on the cobra. the owner bought it back in the 1970's for $200... i'd kill for a rotted shell of a 67' fastback let alone a running and driving one! for $200 bucks! Anyways I started early friday morning and "finished" Sunday afternoon. By "finished" i mean the motor, K member & trans are all bolted in place but i still have work to do before it's running again. Friday morning i started with bolting up the T45 to the engine. The trans is a lot lighter than i expected it to be, install was a breeze since the engine was out of the car. before i installed it i cleaned out the inside of the bellhousing, it's hard to tell i cleaned the inside but i did lol. Also replaced the throwout bearing with a Ford one, I couldn't really find anything wrong with the TOB that came out of the trans besides it being rusty, but i figured i already have it out might was well replace it.















After that i installed the studs for the driver side exhaust manifold, doesn't sound like a big deal but finding these damn things proved more difficult than i think, as ford discontinued them about 10 years ago. However i was able to purchase some from a ford dealership in Connecticut that had some new old stock, ill update the part number to hopefully help someone else out in the future. Anyway I bought 8 studs, thinking two for each side and i'll use the other 4 for my 1999 GT P1SC build right? wrong. Fun fact, the studs for the driver side are completely different than the passenger side! so i am now stuck with 4 extra driver side studs. the passenger side is M12X1.75 for those who may need the correct stud



So next i wheeled it all over to the lift and positioned it under the cobra, and then the tedious job of lining everything as i lowered the car back onto the front end began. once it was all squared up i bolted the K-member into place. I had to source new K member bolts as the one that came out of the car either snapped because they were so rusty or were so brittle looking that i didn't feel comfortable putting them back in the car, again this was another part i have a hell of a time trying to find as, you guessed it ford discontinued them over 10 years ago. i wasn't sure if i could use hardware for an aftermarket lightweight K-member so i ended up getting a nice set used ones. below is a picture of how rusty and weak one of the bolts that came out of the car was compared to the set i put in. after that i put the drive shaft back in, installed new trans mount and motor mounts, and began fitting the new H-pipe. I don't know why i waited until the motor was back in the car to install the motor mounts, my father told me it would be easier to do once its back in but it took me a good 3 or 4 hours to install them because i was fighting for space. However i'm glad i changed them because the passenger side mount was completely destroyed as seen below. Since i installed a new H-pipe the old BBK catted X-pipe for long tubes is for sale as i have no use for it any more if anyone is interested. its old & rusty looking but has no leaks, worked perfectly fine and the cats are not clogged.











After the motor was back in i started connecting all the wires, plugs, hoses and so on, however i am a little confused as to one particular hose that come from what i think is PCV? right next to the throttle body is a hose that does not reach the hose coming from the driver side valve cover, i don't remember taking the hose off nor do i have the hose anywhere in my basket or nuts and bolts that i took off when the motor came out. i have what i'm talking about pictured below(it's the very last picture) maybe someone can help me and post a picture of what their cobra looks like. (EDIT, i figured out the hoses go into the intake tube) By this time it was 4 o'clock sunday afternoon and i was beat, so i threw in the towel and went home going to work on it after work during the week and hopefully have it moving under its own power this weekend, fingers crossed!






Last edited by akurma; November 27th, 2017 at 10:30 PM.
akurma is offline  
post #29 of 58 Old December 5th, 2017, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
another day, another update.

after getting the motor/trans bolted back in i started working on the other things that needed attention. i started with the front lower control arms. i was originally going to replace just the ball joints. however since these are press in style ball joints i would have had to take the control arms off anyway and then take them to get the new ones pressed in. So I bit the bullet and got Moog lower control arms. seemed like an easy job, as its only two bolts that hold them in place, however I didn't realize I would have to drop the steering rack, for the third time to get the front bolt out of place, not a horrible job but a little annoying.









As you can see in the pictures above, the bottom spring isolator was stuck to the factory control arm, so I ended up getting new BBK spring isolators for it to avoid a metal on metal sound



After the control arms were back in place I installed a new set of Sensen brand factory replacement struts, really nice quality struts for the price. not a big brand for Domestic vehicles but a lot of people run them on mazdaspeed3's (my second car) and love them so i figured i'd give them a shot. As anything has to be better than what was left of the original ones lol









Got the front end all buttoned up and decided to put the new BBK Catless H-pipe in place, and accidently broke the driver side front o2 sensor so had to order a new one. after that was installed, I filled the trans with some new Pennzoil synchromesh fluid. I changed my 1999 GT with the same fluid and it was night and day difference so hopefully this will be the same.





After that, I put the rest of the cooling system back in place, connected the hoses and some wires, reinstalled the air intake and then put the front wheels back on it for the first time in a few months and rolled it out of the shop. Hopefully this weekend or next i'll finish connecting the rest of the wiring, add the rest of the fluids, give the engine bay a nice detail and start it up.



akurma is offline  
post #30 of 58 Old January 23rd, 2018, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
had a free weekend and decided to work on the car, as usual it fought me along the way. I started with finishing up the exhaust, installed the new o2 sensor, took the old o2 sensors out of the old BBK X, and hooked up the MIL eliminators, topped off brake, power steering and coolant fluids. That was about all that went in without a fight. After i had buttoned that all up I wanted to finally start the car for the first time since I pulled the motor out, just to make sure it would start.

So i put the battery back in, jump inside and crank the key. it fires right up, initially have a grin on my face for about .2 seconds before my father yells "shut it off" repeatedly. i get out and see a massive oil pool on the ground. Turns out the O-ring on the oil filter gave way and shot about 3 qts of fresh clean oil out. I've changed the oil in my 99 GT a dozen times, it's pretty hard to mess up, its possible i didn't tighten it or over tightened the filter. all i know is the O-ring/gasket looks out of round? I should have noticed that when i put it on. Oh well, bought a new filter and topped off the oil.

Fired it up again, no leaks this time! However I noticed it vibrating terribly, not a drivetrain vibration, it felt more like an exhaust issue. At this point the car shut itself off, and would keep turning off after about 5 seconds of idling. tracked it down to two different broken vacuum lines. I slipped some rubber hose over the leak to fix it.












Now with the vacuum leak fixed, I put the car back in the air looking for what part of the exhaust it hitting causing the vibration. Turns out its hitting all over the damn place the first place i notice was the passenger side muffler is hitting the frame rail, okay no big deal just unbolt it from the H-pipe twist it so it isn't and bolt it up right? nope. I can't twist it because it is ALSO hitting on the passenger side rear upper control arm. at this point i realize the entire passenger side cat back is crooked for whatever reason, even though it fit before with the long tubes and BBK X-pipe. But wait there's more! the driver side H-pipe is hitting the trans crossmember. I tried unbolting it from the header moving it and bolting it back up, which did help a bit but not enough. it seems the crossmember is angled? and its hitting where it turns down. Driver side cat back also hits the frame rail where is hoops over the rear axle. I'm thinking someone modified the cat back to work with the long tubes and shorty X-pipe and now that it has a normal midpipe it doesn't fit properly. Not exactly sure what im going to do about this. i really don't want to have to buy a new catback. The catback is a Flowmaster american thunder for those wondering. I would just put dumps on the back of the mufflers and run it like that but i can't because it wont pass PA state inspection.









At this point i'm beyond frustrated, when I notice a small pool of the fresh coolant i had just poured into the system forming on the floor. its leaking from somewhere against the passenger side firewall and cylinder head. I lower the car and find one of the heater core hoses has a small hole in it. Must have gotten snagged on something when the motor went back in.



The only joy i got out of working on the car was seeing the 1967 fastback that came in for paint get picked up by its owner. Some of you might remember the car from a few posts back. the car came out beautifully! pictures don't do it justice.



akurma is offline  
post #31 of 58 Old January 23rd, 2018, 11:36 PM
Moderator
 
SSG Pate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 13,573
                     
iTrader: 9 reviews
Its always a good feeling to be one step closer.
akurma likes this.


Convertible Crew Founder
Proud Iraq and Afghanistan War veteran

700 RWHP Club Member #1

Vortech T Trim @18 PSI
604 RWHP 516 FT LB
[email protected]@ 523RWHP

Precision Turbo 7675 CEA @ 20 PSI
738 RWHP 691 FT LB
10.9 @ 131 MPH
SSG Pate is offline  
post #32 of 58 Old January 24th, 2018, 06:10 PM
Hardcore Enthusiast
 
Snorky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,439
     
Garage
iTrader: 1 reviews
if you want 4.10's I have the set out of my GT. $30. lol cobra looks awesome though, love the color. where in PA are you

Mmr900 4.75 striker. Stock heads, CMS stage 2 turbo cams, on3 67mm ball bwaring billet wheel turbo kit @12.7 psi
539 rwhp / 601 rwtq

Snorky is offline  
post #33 of 58 Old January 24th, 2018, 06:12 PM
Hardcore Enthusiast
 
Snorky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,439
     
Garage
iTrader: 1 reviews
also have a bassani SS catback for a 99-04 car... not sure how they fit on a 96-98 though

Mmr900 4.75 striker. Stock heads, CMS stage 2 turbo cams, on3 67mm ball bwaring billet wheel turbo kit @12.7 psi
539 rwhp / 601 rwtq

Snorky is offline  
post #34 of 58 Old January 24th, 2018, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snorky View Post
if you want 4.10's I have the set out of my GT. $30. lol cobra looks awesome though, love the color. where in PA are you
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snorky View Post
also have a bassani SS catback for a 99-04 car... not sure how they fit on a 96-98 though
If they were 3.73's id be all over them but i want 3.73's for my 99GT for when i finally put my built motor and P1SC on. i'll shoot you a PM about the catback. I already ordered a Pypes pipe-bomb catback for it. im from the Perkasie PA area, but if you got a good deal i don't mind driving to Jersey lol
akurma is offline  
post #35 of 58 Old January 24th, 2018, 07:45 PM
Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 129
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Hey there! Definitely admire how much work you're putting into this, and how much progress I can see you've made! Keep it up!

If you ever need aftermarket stuff, particularly name brand, just shoot us a message and we can probably help you out!
akurma likes this.
Aristocrat Autosport is offline  
post #36 of 58 Old January 25th, 2018, 10:29 AM
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 178
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Stories like this make me want to start working on my car and not at the same time. I'm sure once I start doing things I'm going to run into some problems.

1998 v6 - Sold
2000 GT - Sold
2003 Mach 1 - Current
Mike's03Mach is offline  
post #37 of 58 Old January 25th, 2018, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike's03Mach View Post
Stories like this make me want to start working on my car and not at the same time. I'm sure once I start doing things I'm going to run into some problems.
That's half the fun though right lol?
akurma is offline  
post #38 of 58 Old January 26th, 2018, 01:20 PM
US Air Force (retired)
 
Eagle2000GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 13,515
                     
Garage
iTrader: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by akurma View Post
If they were 3.73's id be all over them but i want 3.73's for my 99GT for when i finally put my built motor and P1SC on. i'll shoot you a PM about the catback. I already ordered a Pypes pipe-bomb catback for it. im from the Perkasie PA area, but if you got a good deal i don't mind driving to Jersey lol
There is no such thing as a universally best gear. We should always pick the gear that best serves the way we use the car.

I think that 3.73s are the perfect final gear for a street/strip car with a P1SC and a T-45 transmission. Highway RPMs are not too high and first gear is not too short. RPM at the finish line of the quarter is slightly short of red line and peak horsepower. If you are quarter mile minded 4.10s are past red line and peak horsepower but not so far past as to be dangerous. Stock redline is 5800 RPM. My P1SC, T-45 transmission, 3.73 gears and stock size drag radials makes peak horsepower at 5900 RPM. At 111-112 mph my car crosses the finish line around 5600 rpm. With 4.10s I would be crossing around 6200 RPM. (My rev limiter is set at 6500 RPM.)

The first four gears of our manual transmissions are the same but the overdrives are different. Overdrive in the T-45 and a 2001 T-3650 is lower than the later T-3650s. A T-45's overdrive is 0.67:1. The later T-3650s are 0.62:1 so they can get away with the lower 4.10s on the highway with the biggest complaint being the short first gear.

Auto are in a league of their own. They have a fairly high first and second so most say to run 4.10s in a quarter mile. There is a unique situation with autos because of the large step between gears. 4.10s can actually make the car slower when roll racing. The transmission has to shift into drive (third) sooner with 4.10s than it does with stock 3.27s. The overall gear ratio of second gear + 3.27s is actually lower than that of drive + 4.10s so between the speeds of somewhere around 40-80 the car accelerates faster with stock 3.27.

A roll racer discovered this and reported it on MM. 4.10 advocates swore it couldn't happen. He posted videos showing slower acceleration. The debate went on until we did the actual math. Bottom line: It has been observed and proven mathematically, an auto with 4.10s is slower between 40-80 mph.

Cliff Knight, an engineer, used to be a very active member. He has a lot of useful information on his website including some calculators such as "How fast each gear" that lets you select transmission, gear ratio, and tire sizes to determine speed at various RPMs. I reference his website often.
PaladinMicro
akurma likes this.

ProCharger P-1SC, 9 psi, STD 396/383; Uncorrected 388/375; SAE 383/370.
Ret. USAF 1969-1973,1980-1996: Vietnam veteran. Aircraft maintenance. R & D, ICBM Operations.
Also own: 1997 Harley FXDWG, 1998 F-150, and 2002 Corvette LS1
Eagle2000GT is offline  
post #39 of 58 Old February 4th, 2018, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
akurma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 921
 
iTrader: 3 reviews
Got the Pypes pipe-bomb catback delivered earlier this week. The box it was shipped in was absolutely mangled, but surprisingly nothing was damaged or missing! so i tackled that yesterday. I couldn't manage to get the Flowmaster catback off without cutting it unfortunately as the connections where the tail pipes meat the mufflers were so corroded even with a torch and hammer they wouldn't budge. (If anyone wants to make an offer on the flowmaster system PM me) Once that was out of the way i went to work installing the Pypes system, super easy install but was a little odd that the mufflers weren't welded to the pipes going to the midpipe like most systems but it works. Best of all it actually fits unlike the flowmaster unit! I still have to align the exhaust tips but overall pretty impressed with the system for being one of the cheapest stainless steel ones on the market for these cars. I personally like the look and style of the exhaust tips on the flowmaster unit better but I digress.

















Once that the cat back was done i made my way to the front and fixed that coolant leak that was against the passenger side firewall and the back of the passenger side head. By far the most aggravating spot to work on because of the limited space. after fighting with it for a while and removing the charcoal canister ( at least that's what i think it was) for the AC to give myself more room, i finally got the old hose off and slipped on the new Gates hose. Looking back I wonder if this leak is why i found two gallons of coolant in the trunk when i bought it









By this point the car was "done" all i had to do was top off the fluids, and bleed the brakes. So i wanted to start it up and get it out moving under it own power the the first time in months to let it idle and make sure no leaks or anything popped up. Fired it up and drove it out of the shop and let it idle for a good 20 minutes. It still has an exhaust leak as i am having a hell of a time finding the passenger side front EGR bung (first picture below) If anyone knows where i can order or even knows the correct thread please let me know. it is not the same as a 99 GT. after about 20 minutes nothing was leaking, the car spontaneously combust or anything lol, so i decided i wanted to take it for a spin to see if all my hard work had paid of. It did not. I instantly noticed horrible vibrations from about 1000-3000 RPMS. I didn't take it past 3000 rpms. Doesn't matter if it is in gear or neutral, although there are noticeably less vibrations in neutral and almost none when its at idle. Now I know there is a break in period for new clutch kit, but does the break in period usual have really bad vibrations? I drove it about 3 miles so far. This was also my first clutch install, it was stupid easy to install but maybe I overlooked something? maybe the flywheel was resurfaced incorrectly? could the driveshaft be out of balance? stretched clutch cable? anyone have any ideas?

Also enjoy the short walk around video of it a idle for the first time since i took the motor out, keep in mind it has the exhaust leak from that EGR bung that is missing.





akurma is offline  
post #40 of 58 Old February 5th, 2018, 08:08 AM
6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
 
TheOdessa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 5,215
           
iTrader: 4 reviews
Looks good! Just some personal feedback (take it for what it's worth) and hopefully some help on the vibration

-On the exhaust, I never use those cheap U clamps. It pinches the metal making it almost impossible to disassemble the exhaust if you plan on doing so in the future. I always use lap band clamps or since the metal is cut with slits on the M80 mufflers a heavy duty clamp. Examples linked below:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-hvc21

or

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-hvc10

Summit sells house brand clamps for cheaper of these styles but I just linked the quickest to give you an idea.
-On the clutch, did it come with a FRPP TOB? I ask because I've had a TOB fail after 15K miles using the one that came with the kit. Did you replace the pilot bearing? How's the transmission mount look? I had a clunking noise when mine failed. Replaced it with FORD OEM RUBBER (this is important because I used an aftermarket one and it was crap) and it fixed that. Other uses reported when theirs failed it was vibrating like crazy. Did you replace the pivot stud and TOB clutch fork? These are wearable items.

Onto the vibration - Is it felt in your ass (whole car vibration), felt in the shifter (transmission vibration), or in the steering wheel? Does it happen when you rev,or at a certain speed regardless of RPM? Does it happen at a certain RPM while in neutral?

At a certain speed I was getting insane steering wheel vibration. Took my car in and got the wheels re balanced and all was fine. Whole car vibration can be the driveshaft. Transmission vibration (you an see the shifter going nuts) can be a bad trans mount to something improperly done with the clutch install (never did it myself so I can't start pointing out things to look at here).

I'm leaning towards a drive line issue. Gut says your drive shaft is out of balance. You can take your stock one to any driveline stop and get it rebalanced. You can also buy an aluminum one from Ford Racing that comes pre balanced which will also include new, beefed up U joints. Again this is internet diagnosis based on most plausible cause so take it with a grain of salt.

You can also check things like the steering components. How do the inner and outter tie rods look? Is there any play in the tires when the front is off the ground? Jack up the front and grab 12 and 6 oclock. Rock in and out. Same with 9 and 3 o clock. Check for play. On the rack pull back the boot - is there any steering fluid in there? This could indicate a leaking rack which destroys inner tie rods. Get the wheel half an inch off the ground and lift with a crow bar. Is there a clunking noise? This could indicate a bad lower ball joint. I see you tore into the lower control arms. How did the bushings look? People have indicated sloppy steering (which can translate into vibration at speed) if those are shot. I'm throwing rocks here as I don't know the answers to my original questions.

How's the motor mounts look?

I'm just throwing ideas out there.

---------- Post added at 07:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 AM ----------

Also, why the Mercedes Benz front plate? lol - seems extremely out of place...

http://imageshack.com/a/img832/3492/odessadone.jpg

2001 Mustang GT Convertible - Black with Black Top - 5SPD
Bolt On Warrior - Everything done to my car:
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...l#post11931130
TheOdessa is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Forums at Modded Mustangs forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome