I hit my longtubes on a speed bump and now exhaust leak - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 24 Old December 3rd, 2017, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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I hit my longtubes on a speed bump and now exhaust leak

Hey guys so I was going over a speed bump ever so slow but I plopped down just right to smack my long tube on the passenger side on a speed bump. It sounds like there is an exhaust leak on that side now but no codes are being thrown so I'm thinking where it hit (where the headers meet the midpipe) might have got dinged. What bothers me is where the header probably had a quarter inch of clearance from the k member now has a good inch.

I'll get the car up on ramps tomorrow as I can't today but what's the best way to see where the leak is coming from? I wish I had a smoke machine to smoke test it but I don't. Any other thoughts?

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post #2 of 24 Old December 3rd, 2017, 01:46 PM
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post #3 of 24 Old December 3rd, 2017, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Lol thanks man. If only it were more affordable.

Looks like I'm going to be using the shop vac method. Plug up one tailpipe and stick the shop vac in the other sealed well. Pump air into the system and use soapy water around joints and connections. I hope i didn't damage something too bad. Crap... stupid long tubes

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post #4 of 24 Old December 3rd, 2017, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
Lol thanks man. If only it were more affordable.

Looks like I'm going to be using the shop vac method. Plug up one tailpipe and stick the shop vac in the other sealed well. Pump air into the system and use soapy water around joints and connections. I hope i didn't damage something too bad. Crap... stupid long tubes
soapy water works great for areas that you can reach, but areas that you cannot it will be difficult. If you get it on ramps and jump under right after starting it you may be lucky and catch some moisture shooting out and condensation misting out of the crack (likely cracked on a weld if the sound changed enough for you to hear it).

Otherwise pickup the cheapest fog machine on amazon and stick it in the tailpipe ($33) and you can also use it during Halloween. There will be a number of small leaks all over the system, just look for the big ones.

https://www.amazon.com/ADJ-Products-...ds=fog+machine


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post #5 of 24 Old December 3rd, 2017, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 02sonicGT View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
Lol thanks man. If only it were more affordable.

Looks like I'm going to be using the shop vac method. Plug up one tailpipe and stick the shop vac in the other sealed well. Pump air into the system and use soapy water around joints and connections. I hope i didn't damage something too bad. Crap... stupid long tubes
soapy water works great for areas that you can reach, but areas that you cannot it will be difficult. If you get it on ramps and jump under right after starting it you may be lucky and catch some moisture shooting out and condensation misting out of the crack (likely cracked on a weld if the sound changed enough for you to hear it).

Otherwise pickup the cheapest fog machine on amazon and stick it in the tailpipe ($33) and you can also use it during Halloween. There will be a number of small leaks all over the system, just look for the big ones.

https://www.amazon.com/ADJ-Products-...ds=fog+machine
Thanks man! I was kind of hoping it wasn't a weld because no codes are being thrown. Typically any leak that big prior to the primary 02s like to throw a code. The fog machine idea is brilliant. I would need to get some hose and rig it up somehow.

The noise is annoying. It's not a typical train type noise that I'm use to big a deep bass sound at certain rpms. I know it's the exhaust because I'll throw the clutch in or change rpms and it goes away. It's the most annoying thing ever. I was hoping soapy water would catch it as I have a mechanics mirror and all that but smoking def seems like the way to go.

Freaking exhaust system is only 2 months old. Bbk LTs , bbk OR H and Mac cat back. All brand new. Live and you learn.

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post #6 of 24 Old December 3rd, 2017, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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The headers are cermic coated. I know next to nil about welding. If a weld is busted can a shop weld this or is the coating going to be a pain. I'd hate to remove a header to weld. Lord knows they were a pain going in. More $$$

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post #7 of 24 Old December 3rd, 2017, 11:38 PM
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They'll have to clear off the coating go redo the welds if it really did break at a weld, but that's worst case. The welds on the bbk LTs are pretty solid, I whack mine all the time on speedbumps and the only leak it's ever caused is just right at the midpipe, and only on the passenger side for some reason. I used soapy water to find that leak, but it was pretty obvious where it was coming from once I was under the car.

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post #8 of 24 Old December 4th, 2017, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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They'll have to clear off the coating go redo the welds if it really did break at a weld, but that's worst case. The welds on the bbk LTs are pretty solid, I whack mine all the time on speedbumps and the only leak it's ever caused is just right at the midpipe, and only on the passenger side for some reason. I used soapy water to find that leak, but it was pretty obvious where it was coming from once I was under the car.
Visual inspection shows that's where my leak is too. I painted everything flat black when I put the exhaust on. Flat black grill paint. Now there is unpainted metal showing. I'm guessing it got whacked there hence the leak. I might loosen it up and apply copper rtv and reseal. I'm hoping the metal didn't get distorted to the point of non repair without shop work.

I'm still going to use a shop vac and soapy water til I can get a fog machine rigged up. I'm curious if the header gaskets are leaking at all. I hear a ticking sound near the collectors on both sides but it's always been there and sounds internal. Read that's the nature of long tunes. It's not an exhaust leak tick but more of I can hear the valves clicking.

http://imageshack.com/a/img832/3492/odessadone.jpg

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post #9 of 24 Old December 4th, 2017, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02sonicGT View Post
Quote:
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Lol thanks man. If only it were more affordable.

Looks like I'm going to be using the shop vac method. Plug up one tailpipe and stick the shop vac in the other sealed well. Pump air into the system and use soapy water around joints and connections. I hope i didn't damage something too bad. Crap... stupid long tubes
soapy water works great for areas that you can reach, but areas that you cannot it will be difficult. If you get it on ramps and jump under right after starting it you may be lucky and catch some moisture shooting out and condensation misting out of the crack (likely cracked on a weld if the sound changed enough for you to hear it).

Otherwise pickup the cheapest fog machine on amazon and stick it in the tailpipe ($33) and you can also use it during Halloween. There will be a number of small leaks all over the system, just look for the big ones.

https://www.amazon.com/ADJ-Products-...ds=fog+machine
Hey man thanks for the idea on the condensation. I went under there real quick after the ramps and sure as shit the passenger side to header mid pipe connection is leaking. Without you telling me this I never would have connected the dots. Thanks again!

http://imageshack.com/a/img832/3492/odessadone.jpg

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post #10 of 24 Old December 5th, 2017, 01:37 AM
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Glad to hear you found it fast. Hopfully nothing bent to bad and you can correct it just as fast.


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post #11 of 24 Old December 5th, 2017, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Glad to hear you found it fast. Hopfully nothing bent to bad and you can correct it just as fast.
Due to time I didn't get a chance to mess with it but I will after work today
It isn't a DD so I'll get under there. The bump smack jammed the mid pipe up causing a leak at the bottom. I'm hoping loosening the bolts and pulling It down a bit will help as I tighten back up with an impact. Next goal is to avoid speed bumps or always go at them on an angle.

I couldn't imagine being slammed. I'm on steeda sport springs. You got to pay to play

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post #12 of 24 Old December 5th, 2017, 11:08 AM
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Take a picture when you climb under. I am curious what it looks like.

Even without LTís on my 02 the sport springs i had caused fubbing on large bumps. No plans to lower my 15 ever!


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post #13 of 24 Old December 5th, 2017, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Take a picture when you climb under. I am curious what it looks like.

Even without LTís on my 02 the sport springs i had caused fubbing on large bumps. No plans to lower my 15 ever!
Picture of where the speed bump hit or the springs?

I went with sports springs because I wanted to lower without slamming. They advertise 1.25 drop by I got a 1.5 drop on the nose with new poly isolators installed all around. I'm guessing since my vert is heavier then a coupe.

I'm riding on new Monroe sensatracs shocks and struts I installed prior to lowering. The ride is smooth but we have good roads here in Tampa.

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post #14 of 24 Old December 5th, 2017, 05:50 PM
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I once tried to figure out how to lower my Mustang without actually lowering it. At one time we could get Bullitt springs from FRPP that lowered the car 3/4". I thought that I could put on a taller tire that would raise the car 3/4" (radius or 1.5" diameter). That would take 1.5" of dead air out of the fender well without actually lowering the car. I decided to wait until I needed tires. By then I couldn't find Bullitt springs anymore.

I also didn't really like the tire choices. A 255/50/17 would have worked. But 18" wheel/tire such as a 265/45/18 was a better option.

Note: Stock 245/45/17s have a diameter of 25.68" so a tire of approximately 27.18" would be needed. A 255/50/17 has a diameter of 27.04". A 265/45/18 has a diameter of 27.39".

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post #15 of 24 Old December 5th, 2017, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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I'm just going to go ahead and get the exhaust smoked. I hit the connection with an impact real good and it's still there. You cant hear the leak or feel it while idling but when under load, and especially on decel, I can hear the sound. It's almost like it's leaking just enough where the connection hits the catback on the passenger side to make just enough sound to be annoying. It's that or a weld broke somewhere. If that's the case I couldn't fix it anyway. I'll find an exhaust shop in town that can weld and smoke and be done with it.

That's what happens when you are lowered with long tubes. Blah.

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post #16 of 24 Old December 5th, 2017, 08:26 PM
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I was curious about a pocture of the beaders where the contact happened and you think the leak is. Also maybe a pic of how low it hangs when looking underneath.


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post #17 of 24 Old December 6th, 2017, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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I was curious about a pocture of the beaders where the contact happened and you think the leak is. Also maybe a pic of how low it hangs when looking underneath.
I'll get both tonight. Where the mid pipe meets the header is where I thought it was but I'm wrong. I'm afraid there is a crack somewhere. I smacked it pretty damn good. I'm going to have a shop check it out and weld as needed.

I can take a pic tonight. I'm shocked how low it all sits. Damn long tubes. We have good roads in Florida but tons of speed bumps to please the old folks.

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post #18 of 24 Old December 6th, 2017, 03:15 PM
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Another good trick for finding the leak is to seafoam the car with it on ramps, it'll smoke like hell from burning the seafoam, and you should see it leaking that smoke from anything bigger than a pin hole.

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post #19 of 24 Old December 8th, 2017, 02:10 PM
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That is an excellent idea though i would not want to be stuck under the car inhaling all those fumes looking for the leak


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post #20 of 24 Old December 11th, 2017, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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The shop I had the longtubes installed at - he's going to look it over and see if he can find the leak. If the leak is at the headers somewhere I'll have him repair. If it's after the headers (H pipe cracked or catback doing something funky) I'll just drive it as is. My gut is telling me the header is messed up somewhere sadly. That's the actual part that banged itself on the speed bump. The sound is coming from the middle of the passenger side door area.

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