Thud or clank noise when clutch pushed in at lower speeds - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 21 Old December 10th, 2017, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thud or clank noise when clutch pushed in at lower speeds

Hey guys. Do you know what a thud or clank noise from the driveline might be when I'm at lower speeds and I push the clutch in suddenly? It happens in stop and go traffic often. Noticed it started happening when I start to go too.

I thought it might be the U joints but I had a new FRPP aluminum drive shaft put it a few months ago. This comes with new u joints. The issue was there prior to the drive shaft being put in so I know that isn't it. I thought it could be the transmission but it was redone with all wearables replaced (new clutch, flywheel,TOB,TOB arm and pivot stud). I'm stumped. I was looking at maybe the transmission mount being shot but now I'm drawing straws. I have no idea where to look now.

Also the rear end was totally rebuilt (4.10 gears, rebuilt trac lock, axle bearings and seals, RP gear oil and FRPP finned cover) but the noise was there prior to this too.

Ideas?

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post #2 of 21 Old December 10th, 2017, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Since my motor mounts are new and everything else in the drive line - I looked at the rubber on the transmission mount and its cracked and corroded to crap. I'll go ahead and replace it and see what happens. Ford OEM is $84 and Anchor (which seems to be popular) is $14 on Rockauto. What's up with the price difference? It's $22 shipped. Normally I'd go OEM on everything but that is a large cost diff. I just replaced my motor mounts with Ford OEM. I like how rubber soaks up vibration versus poly.

Has anyone used Anchor or other aftermarket trans mounts? Trying to see if the cost diff is worth it.

I just have no idea what else could be causing this issue.

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post #3 of 21 Old December 10th, 2017, 10:03 PM
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Your trans mount could most certainly cause a clunk like that, and since it sounds like you've eliminated everything else in the driveline, so I would start with that. I replaced mine with oem, but for the price i would say go for the anchor piece and see, if it doesn't work as well you're only out 20 bucks and 20 minutes under the car.

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post #4 of 21 Old December 10th, 2017, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks man!

Side note - How do you like those Flowmaster 40's with the X pipe? I have BBK long tubes with a BBK H pipe and Mac Flowpaths. I've been debating throwing on a VRS X pipe to see how I like it. I like deep exhaust but was wanting to make it sound a tad bit more...exotic?

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post #5 of 21 Old December 11th, 2017, 09:11 AM
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The flowmasters aren't my favorite muffler, I prefer more of a straight thru muffler, but with the bbk x pipe they do have that extra crackle and pop that I love. I get comments all the time on my setup, it does sound way different from most of the local 2v guys, most of them have more volume than tone.

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post #6 of 21 Old December 11th, 2017, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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The flowmasters aren't my favorite muffler, I prefer more of a straight thru muffler, but with the bbk x pipe they do have that extra crackle and pop that I love. I get comments all the time on my setup, it does sound way different from most of the local 2v guys, most of them have more volume than tone.
I was going to just go with Stingers and an X pipe but maybe just an X pipe then see if I like it. If not, put the stingers on. I just hate to keep throwing money at this exhaust when I just got my current set up done back in October. It's all brand new! Throw that I only drive the car maybe 1000 miles a year max and it barely has any use on it.

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post #7 of 21 Old December 11th, 2017, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poweredpony69 View Post
The flowmasters aren't my favorite muffler, I prefer more of a straight thru muffler, but with the bbk x pipe they do have that extra crackle and pop that I love. I get comments all the time on my setup, it does sound way different from most of the local 2v guys, most of them have more volume than tone.
I was going to just go with Stingers and an X pipe but maybe just an X pipe then see if I like it. If not, put the stingers on. I just hate to keep throwing money at this exhaust when I just got my current set up done back in October. It's all brand new! Throw that I only drive the car maybe 1000 miles a year max and it barely has any use on it.
Borla is probably my favorite muffler company, they have the best tone, good all around gains, and most are made from very very light materials, my flowmasters must weigh 20 lbs lol

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post #8 of 21 Old December 13th, 2017, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by poweredpony69 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by poweredpony69 View Post
The flowmasters aren't my favorite muffler, I prefer more of a straight thru muffler, but with the bbk x pipe they do have that extra crackle and pop that I love. I get comments all the time on my setup, it does sound way different from most of the local 2v guys, most of them have more volume than tone.
I was going to just go with Stingers and an X pipe but maybe just an X pipe then see if I like it. If not, put the stingers on. I just hate to keep throwing money at this exhaust when I just got my current set up done back in October. It's all brand new! Throw that I only drive the car maybe 1000 miles a year max and it barely has any use on it.
Borla is probably my favorite muffler company, they have the best tone, good all around gains, and most are made from very very light materials, my flowmasters must weigh 20 lbs lol
I guess the only thing i dislike is the price! I lucked out and got it for 519 shipped on Amazon. Shipped today.

I got the transmission mount in. It looks kind of....cheap. I'll have to compare it to the oem (which costs 4x as much) but this mount had good Amazon reviews and a popular part rating on Rockauto. I won't get it done til next week when I get the new exhaust done. I'll report back when I get under the car. Hopefully it'll help someone in the future.

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post #9 of 21 Old December 13th, 2017, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I just compared the cheap transmission mount to OEM. Nope. Not gonna happen. This is Anchor branded Chinese and compared to OEM looks like an aluminum can. I'm ordering a OEM from LMR and I'll post pics.

That's what I get for going cheap. I broke my own golden rule and it cost me 24 bucks. ALWAYS USE MOTORCRAFT (except my steering rack which I went AC Delco since motorcraft didn't offer one). I always do motorcraft even on idler pulleys and drive belt. This is what I get. Good thing I'm not in a hurry or it's a DD.

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post #10 of 21 Old December 17th, 2017, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced the transmission mount and crossmember - no dice. While the mount was bad (the rubber was so soft I could move it around by hand versus the new which was stiff) .

I drove around with my gf tonight looking at Christmas lights (yeah yeah) and noticed it makes this sound at lower speeds or if the car bucks. It also makes the noise going over bumps. At times it seems like its coming from the front of the car. Other times it sounds like its right under me. I'm at a complete loss on this one. Ball joints, tie rod ends, struts and shocks, upper and lower control arms, engine mounts ... everything is new. Springs with new isos - all new. And it did this before I replaced all that so I know it was there prior. Steering rack is new.

I have no idea what is going on. Thoughts?

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post #11 of 21 Old December 18th, 2017, 01:18 PM
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That sucks that it didn't fix your problem, sorry to hear that. What cc plates are you running? I have sr cc plates to go with my sr coilovers, and they are extremely loud and clunky. Turning, speed bumps, changing direction, all make a clang noise

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post #12 of 21 Old December 18th, 2017, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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That sucks that it didn't fix your problem, sorry to hear that. What cc plates are you running? I have sr cc plates to go with my sr coilovers, and they are extremely loud and clunky. Turning, speed bumps, changing direction, all make a clang noise
Yeah man it sucks really bad but this noise was there prior to going on a modding spree on my car. My car was basically stock when this happened back in October except for an offroad midpipe and exhaust. It's progressively getting louder and more annoying so I really don't know what's going on. I didn't find anything loose as googling yeilded anything from a bad ball joint to broken sway bar mounts but I shook everything and couldn't find the issue. It's extremely annoying and embarrassing. Sounds like an old clunker car. I may break down and have a shop look at it but it sucks.

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post #13 of 21 Old December 19th, 2017, 08:01 PM
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Im subscribed. I have a similar sound (I think I need new mounts for engine and trans).

Does the clunking sound happen at slow speeds when putting the car in neutral? Happens to me all the time. I was told it is slop/slack in the drive shaft. When underload, the driveshaft spins (like a centrifuge) and takes up this slop. When you remove the load, the shaft falls due to gravity.

At least, this is what I have been told.
-
I almost forgot. My buddys brand new challenger scatpack with 6,000 miles on it does the same exact thing as my car. At low speed (5mph or less) it bucks and shakes and clunks when popping it in and out of gear.
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post #14 of 21 Old December 19th, 2017, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Im subscribed. I have a similar sound (I think I need new mounts for engine and trans).

Does the clunking sound happen at slow speeds when putting the car in neutral? Happens to me all the time. I was told it is slop/slack in the drive shaft. When underload, the driveshaft spins (like a centrifuge) and takes up this slop. When you remove the load, the shaft falls due to gravity.

At least, this is what I have been told.
-
I almost forgot. My buddys brand new challenger scatpack with 6,000 miles on it does the same exact thing as my car. At low speed (5mph or less) it bucks and shakes and clunks when popping it in and out of gear.
It does but it also does it when I turn hard at low speeds and go over bumps.

I have new engine mounts, trans mount, drive shaft, transmission was just rebuilt and so was the rear end. Literally everything in the drive train was done and still.

All the suspension was redone too. Ball joints, steering rack, outter tie rod ends, new springs, new isolators, camber caster plates.... Sound is still there and getting worse.

I have this odd feeling it has something to do with the sway bar mounts but that's just gut which is usually wrong.

Thursday I take it into the shop to get some things looked at. My mechanic is going to check into it and let me know what he finds. It's hard to find the issue when you don't have a lift.

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post #15 of 21 Old December 19th, 2017, 10:37 PM
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If your mechanic is a cool dude, hell let you come take a look while its on the lift. If hes really cool, hell let you put it in gear that way you can determine whether its a suspension or drivetrain issue.
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post #16 of 21 Old December 20th, 2017, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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If your mechanic is a cool dude, hell let you come take a look while its on the lift. If hes really cool, hell let you put it in gear that way you can determine whether its a suspension or drivetrain issue.
My mechanic is awesome. He takes me under the lift and even points out issues to me first hand before he does the work. He also stands behind his work if something happens in the future and will fix it at no cost. Huge mustang shop here in Tampa.

I'll report back and hopefully help someone

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post #17 of 21 Old December 20th, 2017, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Just to update everyone. Thought maybe a balljoint died prematurely, sway bar or bushings died or were loose, front wheel bearings are failing, or the struts were loose. I shook the crap out of everything and did a visual check and tire check with the fronts off the ground and nothing. I don't know wtf is going on.

I am going to the shop I got work done at tomorrow to have my driveshaft looked at. The driver side of the motor seems to sit lower then the passenger side by a hair. I am looking at the k member and how it sits parallel to the oil pan. I'm wondering if this is causing some issue. The thing is I had this issue before I had all this work done but it's worse now. I had new motor mounts put in (stock Ford oem) and maybe something settle and it sits lower. I will say on the driver side there is maybe a quarter inch clearance from the BBK LTs and stock K arm. Tomorrow I'll find out what's going on. I'll update.

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post #18 of 21 Old December 20th, 2017, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention the Ford OEM transmission mount is LEAPS AND BOUNDS better then the Anchor branded Chinese trans mount. I couldn't believe it. To put it into perspective the metal on the Chinese one is so thin that it's sharp and will cut you.

$24 bucks shipped for Chinese (rockauto) versus $85 shipped for oem(LMR). Never doing that mistake again. My time is worth more then 60 bucks not to mention peace of mind. Plus the rubber injection on the Chinese unit looks so....sad compared to the Ford OEM part.

I didn't get pics as I just put it on my car but wanted to atleast share what I saw. It was shocking. Rockauto refunded me my money without asking for the part back so I have another box in the garage taking up space. I'll probably end up giving it away locally to someone on a tight budget.

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post #19 of 21 Old December 21st, 2017, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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So it ended up being my transmission mount. The stocker was bad. The cheap Chinese one was just worse. Put a Ford OEM one in and drove it to the shop today....no clunking. My mechanic confirmed anchor branded motor and trans mounts are crap which I stated earlier in my visual inspection. Lesson learned...always go oem.

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post #20 of 21 Old December 21st, 2017, 11:23 PM
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Glad it was the mount, I know those noises can drive you crazy! Has it helped with the other vibration issue?

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