Winter project for this year... Suspension - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 63 Old January 2nd, 2018, 08:04 PM
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I also have a 2003 gt vert 5 speed....bought it 100% stock...the best things I did was lower it with Eiback springs, Tokico shocks, and sticky tires...makes a HUGE difference in handling! my car only has 47K so the bushings are all still new so I didnt get into changing them....I also changed to a cobra front brake kit for stopping....my car will see some track time just for fun...Id love to know if there is a way to make the car turn quicker!
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post #22 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, just picked up my parts! Here is the list, what do you all think?

UPR Mild Steel K-Member with A-Arms
QA1 HS603S Adjustable Front Struts
QA1 DS509 Adjustable Rear Shocks
Viking 12DP200 Front Springs
QA1 12HT110 Rear Springs (replaced with 12HT150 after the rear being too bouncy)
UPR Bumpsteer Kit
UPR Caster Camber Plates

I also ordered

Prothane Swaybar Endlinks
Prothane Motor Mounts
Prothane Swaybar Bushings
Prothane Steering Rack Bushings
SR Performance Rear Control Arms (to remove worn out quad shocks)
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1999 Mustang GT 5 Speed Vert
Procharger P1SC @ 9 psi
382/382 STD
Tuned by Chicken Hawk Motorsports

Supercharger Build Thread: https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ld-thread.html

Last edited by 46L281GT; April 13th, 2018 at 03:32 PM.
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post #23 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 46L281GT View Post
Okay, just picked up my parts! Here is the list, what do you all think?

UPR Mild Steel K-Member with A-Arms
QA1 HS603S Adjustable Front Struts
QA1 DS509 Adjustable Rear Shocks
QA1 12HT110 Front Springs
Viking 12DP200 Rear Springs
UPR Bumpsteer Kit
UPR Caster Camber Plates

I also ordered

Prothane Swaybar Endlinks
Prothane Motor Mounts
Prothane Swaybar Bushings
Prothane Steering Rack Bushings
SR Performance Rear Control Arms (to remove worn out quad shocks)
We are actually doing a very similar build (i'm just one thread over.) You have a solid list, and aside from a few non-consequential brand differences on springs and shocks/struts, my build only differs in the following ways:
  • No bumpsteer kit (only needed if you're lowering more than 2", and it's a pain to configure correctly from my understanding)
  • Went with non-adjustable shocks, but that was just b I will likely never adjust the shocks/struts after I install them, so I figured I'd save a few bucks.
  • I opted for UPR rear control control arms in stead of SR. TheOdesta used to have the SR brand and actually sent them back because he didn't like them.
  • Kicked the K-member can down the road. I'll probably install it later, but dollar for dollar, I didn't think it was worth it at the moment.
  • OEM FRPP mounts instead of Prothane. They may not be as "solid", but they are apparently better for keeping the ride smooth thanks to the rubber bushings.

In the end, it mostly comes down to preference and your specific goals. Good luck to ya. Sub'd to your thread to watch the results!
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post #24 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 06:30 AM
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The SR performance rear control arms felt cheap as hell when I opened the box. The metal was so chincy. That coupled with the horror stories I read on reviews on AMs site....i called AM and they took them back with no penalties. Ended up going bbk but there are other brands. Big difference in construction, welds, and metal used. Also were 200 bucks more too. SR performance control arms had Chinese writing all over the box too which I didn't like. Ymmv though. For shits and giggles, and since I had them lying around already, I replaced the quad shocks. I figured why not. They are Gabriel brand that were like 10 or 15 bucks a pop off rock auto I bought 8 months ago and didn't put on. I figured it wouldn't hurt anything.

Good luck and keep us updated!

http://imageshack.com/a/img832/3492/odessadone.jpg

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post #25 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 06:34 AM
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Oh and as for the motor mounts, my mechanic knows I like the least amount of NVH as possible. Since he did my long tubes and was dropping the K he did my motor mounts too. He said to do Ford OEM rubber only if I didn't want increased NVH. Said the same thing about the trans mount. He stressed the importance of these mounts to be Ford OEM. Again ymmv.

http://imageshack.com/a/img832/3492/odessadone.jpg

2001 Mustang GT Convertible - Black with Black Top - 5SPD
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https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...l#post11931130
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post #26 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
The SR performance rear control arms felt cheap as hell when I opened the box. The metal was so chincy. That coupled with the horror stories I read on reviews on AMs site....i called AM and they took them back with no penalties. Ended up going bbk but there are other brands. Big difference in construction, welds, and metal used. Also were 200 bucks more too. SR performance control arms had Chinese writing all over the box too which I didn't like. Ymmv though. For shits and giggles, and since I had them lying around already, I replaced the quad shocks. I figured why not. They are Gabriel brand that were like 10 or 15 bucks a pop off rock auto I bought 8 months ago and didn't put on. I figured it wouldn't hurt anything.

Good luck and keep us updated!
I was having buyers remorse as soon as I ordered them last night. I'm glad you mentioned this about the rear control arms. I'm going to cancel my AM order and go with the LMR SVE brand. All good reviews and actually a bit cheaper. I know they aren't the best, but I figured at 95 bucks, I'll give them a try.

---------- Post added at 08:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex View Post
We are actually doing a very similar build (i'm just one thread over.) You have a solid list, and aside from a few non-consequential brand differences on springs and shocks/struts, my build only differs in the following ways:
  • No bumpsteer kit (only needed if you're lowering more than 2", and it's a pain to configure correctly from my understanding)
  • Went with non-adjustable shocks, but that was just b I will likely never adjust the shocks/struts after I install them, so I figured I'd save a few bucks.
  • I opted for UPR rear control control arms in stead of SR. TheOdesta used to have the SR brand and actually sent them back because he didn't like them.
  • Kicked the K-member can down the road. I'll probably install it later, but dollar for dollar, I didn't think it was worth it at the moment.
  • OEM FRPP mounts instead of Prothane. They may not be as "solid", but they are apparently better for keeping the ride smooth thanks to the rubber bushings.

In the end, it mostly comes down to preference and your specific goals. Good luck to ya. Sub'd to your thread to watch the results!
Bumpsteer might be a little overkill for me (okay, maybe a lot of this stuff is a little overkill for me) but I know that if I don't order it now, I'm less likely to order it later. If it becomes a pain, I can always send it back.

The K member was mainly for weight. Since I have full interior, subs and all, I figured ~65 pounds off of the nose was a very good thing. I also was going to be replacing bushings and ball joints, so I figured I might as well do it all at once.

As for the motor mounts, I'll probably get more NVH than stock, but mine were in terrible shape anyway, so the way i see it, It'll probably still be an inprovement from what I already have and a little more NVH won't kill me. I have a nice, quiet, daily driver and sometimes you miss the raw feeling of loud, obnoxious car

I thought I would go ahead and mention pricing, the following was ordered from my tuner so I don't have itemized pricing. I told him I want to go down curvy roads and enjoy it instead of cursing the whole way. I don't track/drag race the car (okay there was one time) so he knows what I wanted. This is what he ordered me and the total cost was right at 2,000

UPR Mild Steel K-Member with A-Arms
QA1 HS603S Adjustable Front Struts
QA1 DS509 Adjustable Rear Shocks
QA1 12HT110 Front Springs
Viking 12DP200 Rear Springs
UPR Bumpsteer Kit
UPR Caster Camber Plates

1999 Mustang GT 5 Speed Vert
Procharger P1SC @ 9 psi
382/382 STD
Tuned by Chicken Hawk Motorsports

Supercharger Build Thread: https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ld-thread.html
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post #27 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 46L281GT View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
The SR performance rear control arms felt cheap as hell when I opened the box. The metal was so chincy. That coupled with the horror stories I read on reviews on AMs site....i called AM and they took them back with no penalties. Ended up going bbk but there are other brands. Big difference in construction, welds, and metal used. Also were 200 bucks more too. SR performance control arms had Chinese writing all over the box too which I didn't like. Ymmv though. For shits and giggles, and since I had them lying around already, I replaced the quad shocks. I figured why not. They are Gabriel brand that were like 10 or 15 bucks a pop off rock auto I bought 8 months ago and didn't put on. I figured it wouldn't hurt anything.

Good luck and keep us updated!
I was having buyers remorse as soon as I ordered them last night. I'm glad you mentioned this about the rear control arms. I'm going to cancel my AM order and go with the LMR SVE brand. All good reviews and actually a bit cheaper. I know they aren't the best, but I figured at 95 bucks, I'll give them a try.

---------- Post added at 08:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex View Post
We are actually doing a very similar build (i'm just one thread over.) You have a solid list, and aside from a few non-consequential brand differences on springs and shocks/struts, my build only differs in the following ways:
  • No bumpsteer kit (only needed if you're lowering more than 2", and it's a pain to configure correctly from my understanding)
  • Went with non-adjustable shocks, but that was just b I will likely never adjust the shocks/struts after I install them, so I figured I'd save a few bucks.
  • I opted for UPR rear control control arms in stead of SR. TheOdesta used to have the SR brand and actually sent them back because he didn't like them.
  • Kicked the K-member can down the road. I'll probably install it later, but dollar for dollar, I didn't think it was worth it at the moment.
  • OEM FRPP mounts instead of Prothane. They may not be as "solid", but they are apparently better for keeping the ride smooth thanks to the rubber bushings.

In the end, it mostly comes down to preference and your specific goals. Good luck to ya. Sub'd to your thread to watch the results!
Bumpsteer might be a little overkill for me (okay, maybe a lot of this stuff is a little overkill for me) but I know that if I don't order it now, I'm less likely to order it later. If it becomes a pain, I can always send it back.

The K member was mainly for weight. Since I have full interior, subs and all, I figured ~65 pounds off of the nose was a very good thing. I also was going to be replacing bushings and ball joints, so I figured I might as well do it all at once.

As for the motor mounts, I'll probably get more NVH than stock, but mine were in terrible shape anyway, so the way i see it, It'll probably still be an inprovement from what I already have and a little more NVH won't kill me. I have a nice, quiet, daily driver and sometimes you miss the raw feeling of loud, obnoxious car

I thought I would go ahead and mention pricing, the following was ordered from my tuner so I don't have itemized pricing. I told him I want to go down curvy roads and enjoy it instead of cursing the whole way. I don't track/drag race the car (okay there was one time) so he knows what I wanted. This is what he ordered me and the total cost was right at 2,000

UPR Mild Steel K-Member with A-Arms
QA1 HS603S Adjustable Front Struts
QA1 DS509 Adjustable Rear Shocks
QA1 12HT110 Front Springs
Viking 12DP200 Rear Springs
UPR Bumpsteer Kit
UPR Caster Camber Plates
Honestly I'd call LMR first before ordering the SVEs. Ask where they are made. If China I'd pass. With such an important component I wouldn't go cheap but that's my humble opinion. Already I did a lot of research and found square tubing is better suited for this application then tubular. If nothing, get the lower control arms only and opt for the uppers that eagle suggested which are reproductions of a FRPP upper. I'd hate to see you get cheap Chinese rear control arms just to see them snap on you on a hard take off. That's just my 2 cents tho. After seeing the SR performance ones I have been damaged lol. The only SR performance part I've been happy with is their strut tower brace. The only SVE part I run is their caster camber plates which have no issue as well. Other then that everything is name brand or Ford OEM parts.

And you'll SAY the harshness is okay but I feel you may may remorse after. Driving a car with weird noises and increased vibrations isn't fun but again ymmv. This is why my mechanic, which is a local racing legend and has done this all his life..his shop is always booked a month out...local mustang only racing shop, suggests rubber only on engine mounts and only Ford OEM. He's had too many people come back complaining.

I can't speak from first hand experience but wanted to share what I heard.

http://imageshack.com/a/img832/3492/odessadone.jpg

2001 Mustang GT Convertible - Black with Black Top - 5SPD
Bolt On Warrior - Everything done to my car:
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post #28 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 09:40 AM
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Btw LMRs FB discount code is LMR6 btw

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post #29 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Odessa, from reading online about their quality of the bushings, i think you have convinced me to just bite the bullet and get either MM or UPR.

1999 Mustang GT 5 Speed Vert
Procharger P1SC @ 9 psi
382/382 STD
Tuned by Chicken Hawk Motorsports

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post #30 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 02:24 PM
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UPR is hardly going to be better than SR or SVE. If you want to do it right the first time, go with MM, Steeda, or Griggs.
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post #31 of 63 Old January 3rd, 2018, 07:41 PM
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UPR is hardly going to be better than SR or SVE. If you want to do it right the first time, go with MM, Steeda, or Griggs.
This.

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post #32 of 63 Old January 4th, 2018, 04:00 AM
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I did BBK grabbers. How does that compare when it comes to control arms?

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post #33 of 63 Old January 4th, 2018, 09:01 AM
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Upr is a cheap no thrills suspension that just plain works. Sve and sr bullshit is cheaper suspension that don't work and often fails. That's the difference. If looking for a pure drag oriented suspension setup there is absolutely nothing wrong with upr stuff. Ive had mine on for probably 6 or 7 years now and haven't had any issues with street driving or at the track with anything other than the powdercoat is just paint and can flake off. I get a lot of nvh but I also don't have rubber bushings out back.

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post #34 of 63 Old January 4th, 2018, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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I've decided to wait on the rear control arms all together and stick with the factory ones until I can get the good ones.
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1999 Mustang GT 5 Speed Vert
Procharger P1SC @ 9 psi
382/382 STD
Tuned by Chicken Hawk Motorsports

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post #35 of 63 Old January 4th, 2018, 01:39 PM
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That's probably the best way to go.

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post #36 of 63 Old January 5th, 2018, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Got the oil pan removed and the motor mounts swapped. I tried to mount the passenger side header, but it's trying to fight me. Has anybody had to drill the holes on the manifold bigger to make it align easier?

1999 Mustang GT 5 Speed Vert
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382/382 STD
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post #37 of 63 Old January 6th, 2018, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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I got the dipstick tube, sway bar bushings, and rear suspension installed this morning. Finally starting to take shape!
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1999 Mustang GT 5 Speed Vert
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382/382 STD
Tuned by Chicken Hawk Motorsports

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post #38 of 63 Old January 6th, 2018, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Tonight I got back to work and got the headers installed. I haven't cussed that much at a car part in a long time. those things were almost not worth the effort..
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1999 Mustang GT 5 Speed Vert
Procharger P1SC @ 9 psi
382/382 STD
Tuned by Chicken Hawk Motorsports

Supercharger Build Thread: https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ld-thread.html
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post #39 of 63 Old January 7th, 2018, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Chiming in because I'm also planning suspension upgrades right now. I've been eyeing the MM road and track box, but it's been brought to my attention that a decent suspension setup doesn't have to cost $2.5k+. Let us know when you get everything installed and how you like it.

Do you have any other mods outside of what is listed in your sig, and how far are you lowered?
That's all the big stuff at least. I replaced all the bushings and installed new front control arms because the bushings were shot. The drop is about 1.5".



The ultimate daily driver project



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post #40 of 63 Old January 7th, 2018, 03:59 PM
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You are a braver man then I on the headers. I paid the 400 bucks to get a shop to do it for me. I opted for long tubes.

What brand headers are those? Looking good!

http://imageshack.com/a/img832/3492/odessadone.jpg

2001 Mustang GT Convertible - Black with Black Top - 5SPD
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