I seem to be leaking something. - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 30 Old December 30th, 2017, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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I seem to be leaking something.

I noticed this today when i had the heat blasting. It's almost like a light green fluid but not too slippery to the touch if that makes since. It looks like it's bubbling out of a bolt, Here are some pics.

---------- Post added at 04:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:57 PM ----------






---------- Post added at 04:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------

this could be my
Should i try stop leak first

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post #2 of 30 Old December 30th, 2017, 07:07 PM
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Never ever use stop leak on anything. Just keep it topped off until you can replace the manifold correctly if that is where the leak is coming from. Rent a coolant pressure tester if you need to pinpoint the source.

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post #3 of 30 Old December 30th, 2017, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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If you look at the 3rd picture it seems to be bubbling up from that screw

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post #4 of 30 Old December 31st, 2017, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 46L281GT View Post
Never ever use stop leak on anything. Just keep it topped off until you can replace the manifold correctly if that is where the leak is coming from. Rent a coolant pressure tester if you need to pinpoint the source.
Will it only leak if I run the ac or heat?

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post #5 of 30 Old December 31st, 2017, 02:14 PM
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Looks like the intake is leaking, more then likely if it is leaking up from the screw then there is a small crack around the bolt hole.... If its the gasket its a 30$ fix if its the intake then its a 37$ fix if you use JB weld to get you by until you can afford to get it done..

If your broke and hard up for cash then here is your option
1.Pull intake and find the crack,
2.SAND then remove all grease from the crack and area.
3.Use JB weld on the crack use a very thin layer to ETCH the crack and let it dry then 4.apply a thick layer of the JB weld. the mistake rookies make is applying I thick layer right off the bat and expecting it to hold....This should last a very long time and be reliable if done right...

If you don't take care of this you will get stranded at some point..

---------- Post added at 01:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:13 PM ----------

To Put your mind at ease this fix should be able to be completed in just a couple hours.. you could get it done today if you got after it..


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post #6 of 30 Old December 31st, 2017, 02:43 PM
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First off green indicates coolant. So you're leaking coolant. This is not a good thing because it could cause you to run low and eventually cause overheating and a blown head gasket.

These cars are notorious for intake manifold failures on stock units. From cracked heater core nipples to everything else you can think of....remember the intake manifold is now an extremely old plastic part sitting on top of your hot engine moving very hot coolant and air. Eventually it's going to wear out. To fix this right replace the intake manifold.

This job is common and will take some time but I've done it twice. Takes 4 to 6 hours depending on skill and ensuring you take the time to label hoses when they are removed. Do not use a dorman manifold but a FRPP one. AM sells them. While in there replace the tstat with new gasket. Read where to apply rtv. Read the torque sequence and specs and follow them. If you don't you will mess it up and have to start over. While I did it I replaced my plugs too. Apply anti seize and torque to the right spec. Failure could cause stripped threads or the plug blowing out. The threads are aluminum so they are finiky. With this car I've learned to invest in a good torque wrenches. Quarter inch, 3/8 and 1\2. Tekton from Amazon hasn't let me down. HF torque wrenchs suck. Also get you some extensions.

Prior to replacing the manifold drain the coolant from the passenger side drain on the radiator. This would be a good time to replace the upper and lower rad hoses. On the lower rad hose use a hose that utilizes metal clamps versus plastic rings. I've had a lower rad hose utilizing plastic clamp rings fail in just a year.

Save money on coolant. Supertech mixed with Walmart distilled water will save you a few bucks.

The plenum will need to come off. I'd replace those gaskets for peace of mind. The egr will come off too as you know since you just put a bbk.

Do your homework and you'll be good. It's time consuming but not hard. When you put the new manifold on make sure the metal it goes on is clean as a whistle. I used brake clean, rags, and a copper wire brush where needed.

FYI the reason I had to do it twice was originally I used a dorman and lost power. Returned it back to Amazon and got a FRPP. Was good as new after.

Good luck. You can do the JB weld but I'm personally a strong believer in fixing things right versus band aids. Nothing is worse then getting stranded somewhere. It's happened to me before and I swore never again.

I'm also proactive on maintenance. I'll replace items before they break to ensure they don't fail. I'm not overly OCD with it but if I see a part starting to show wear I'll replace to prevent failure.

This is why a lot of people choose to buy new cars versus an older car. Lots of things wear over time ess on these newer cars where everything is plastic and built as cheaply as possible. This is also why I don't buy house brand parts but quality parts or motorcraft or Ford OEM. I'm slowly learning this lesson on aftermarket parts too. I probably won't buy sve or Sr parts anymore. They fail then I'm screwed because of 30 day warranties.

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post #7 of 30 Old December 31st, 2017, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Cool thanks for all the info guys. I ran by walmart and picked me up some coolant. I will look into the parts to get this fixed before it gets warm. I took the stang to the gym and took a quick video when i got back to the house. I'm wondering if i put the BBK on too tight and broke something


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post #8 of 30 Old December 31st, 2017, 06:33 PM
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That intake is cracked from the looks of it, there is no way I would even drive that as bad as it is leaking... Like mentioned you will destroy your head gasket when you run out of coolant and over heat.

Try to find the crack, let all the pressure off the system and atleast try to JB weld it over night.


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post #9 of 30 Old December 31st, 2017, 07:43 PM
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That's some insane leaking going on. You have a lake going on under the intake manifold on top of the block. Decommission the car until you replace the intake manifold or you'll risk must more costly repairs.

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post #10 of 30 Old December 31st, 2017, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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IS this the recommended manifold

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post #11 of 30 Old December 31st, 2017, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcarter View Post
IS this the recommended manifold
Yes sir that will get the job done... remember the intake does not take much torque at all to seat the seals 15-22 Pounds plus and additional 90 degree.... and if you over torque it you can mash the seals and cause the leak just the same... I would park that Bitch immediately until you fix that leak.


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post #12 of 30 Old January 1st, 2018, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcarter View Post
IS this the recommended manifold
Yes sir that will get the job done... remember the intake does not take much torque at all to seat the seals 15-22 Pounds plus and additional 90 degree.... and if you over torque it you can mash the seals and cause the leak just the same... I would park that Bitch immediately until you fix that leak.
Yes sir as ssgpate said. Park it and don't drive until fixed. And yes that's the right manifold.

Use code 14fbookcode to get 5 percent off.

Is the crossover on your current manifold plastic or aluminum? Can you take a picture of your current manifold? You might need the alternator bracket as well.

As pate said follow the torque sequence and follow the torque specs. Super important.

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post #13 of 30 Old January 1st, 2018, 02:49 AM
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Someone fact check me because it's been years but I want to say the FRPP intake does not come with new gaskets. I remember buying new ones from fel pro. Tcarter that's something to budget for as well. Felpro makes good gaskets and I remember getting it at advance Auto. I ordered it online and picked it up in store and used a 20 percent off coupon because it was like 30 bucks. Dorman comes with new gaskets I know that but I don't think the FRPP unit does. I also remember use high temp copper rtv around the coolant ports for extra protection. Things to think about and budget for. I also labeled everything with masking tape to ensure to reconnected everything in the right place.

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post #14 of 30 Old January 1st, 2018, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Here are the pics of the manifold.
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post #15 of 30 Old January 1st, 2018, 01:30 PM
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OK So you don't need to buy an alternator bracket as you already have the new version of the intake manifold installed (aluminum versus plastic). In 2002 they started using aluminum but still I wanted to verify.

Go ahead and get the intake from FRPP. Use code 14fbookcode to get 6% off. And I verified, you will need new intake to head gaskets.

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-MS921...words=MS921213

You'll need a new thermostat seal

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-RG...Y0FN5MN476X5QJ

I'd throw in a new tstat for good measure while you're in there

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-MO...PY9GTF2HK2ZKQC

This is a pretty damn good video to see what you're getting into.

I forgot to mention - the o-rings on the fuel injectors were hard as a rock and couldn't be reused. I had to buy new ones when I reinstalled them. You'll need 16 total. Each injector uses 2 for the top and bottom. I got them locally at advance auto.

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post #16 of 30 Old January 1st, 2018, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Is that the right Tstat for a 2002 GT?

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post #17 of 30 Old January 2nd, 2018, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Tcarter View Post
Is that the right Tstat for a 2002 GT?
Yes or you can go to a parts store and get a non motorcraft one. That's what I did and it's fine. Was like 6 bucks. Don't forget a new tstat seal/gasket.

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post #18 of 30 Old January 2nd, 2018, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna change out the spark plugs too do you guys have a list of No No's or a recommended brand. My wife and I just struck a deal. I buy all the go along parts today and get the manifold next week. That gives me this weekend to take it all apart and clean it.

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post #19 of 30 Old January 2nd, 2018, 03:26 PM
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I'm gonna change out the spark plugs too do you guys have a list of No No's or a recommended brand. My wife and I just struck a deal. I buy all the go along parts today and get the manifold next week. That gives me this weekend to take it all apart and clean it.
I always go OEM. Motorcraft platinums. Never had an issue. Autolite and motorcraft are the only 2 plus that I found play nice. This is personal experience. Some had used ngk. Go motorcraft platinums and call it a day. Skip copper and skip double plat and iridium.

Bosch I know for a fact does not play nice with Ford's.

SP-493 is the motorcraft part number. I remember Amazon having the best price.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-...gs-9904gt.html

AM sells them too. Don't forget the antisieze and ask what the gap needs to be.

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post #20 of 30 Old January 10th, 2018, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Just to drop this in the correct spot.....I think i have enough stuff to start my manifold replacement project. I will remove the old one and clean everything up this weekend.( new Tstat got delayed in the mail ) The new manifold will be ordered on Friday probably get it monday or tuesday. On top of this stuff i still have front shocks, caster camber plates, roters, front brakes and mid pipe to install. I may put the other stuff off for a couple weeks so I can actually drive/enjoy the car.
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