Reasonable price for selling my car? - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 7 Old April 29th, 2018, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Location: Monroe Nc
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Reasonable price for selling my car?

Just seeing would anyone be interested in buying or trading for this stang.
5 0 stroked
Forged internals - eagle crank rods diamond pistons
Cylinder heads and cams are stock for now. Heads are ported and polished .
On3 70mm turbo kit with intercooler
340lph aeromotive fuel pump with sumped tank.
All new braided fuel hoses
Tubular k member and front control arms
Agx adjustable sprins in the rear and agx coilovers in the front
Stock gears rebuilt rear end.
Mgw short shifter
Boost , fuel pressure , and AFR gauge (not mounted yet but installed)
Everything works how it should
Front cobra bumper and hood scoop are not painted
Ac does not work. The system works but it leaks freon. Heat works perfect
Tan leather interior no rips
Brand new top with rear glass not plastic.
Convertible hydraulic cylinders are new.
HID bulbs in clear lenses.
3 inch exhaust all the way up to turbo. Very loud and aggressive.
Dyno tuned on 93 octane made 496/ 592 . With cams the horsepower number will be up there with the torque.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Just testing waters though let me know if you want to make an offer or trade .

The post I put on Facebook. What is a reasonable price to sell for?

Don't be afraid to show your ignorance, its how you learn.
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post #2 of 7 Old April 29th, 2018, 03:01 PM
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Your car has had so much stuff done to it, that you've pretty much fenced out 98% of your potential market. If you really want to sell the car in a way to recoup your money, you should pull the engine and return the car to as stock as possible (including painting the bumper cover), sell the car, and then sell the engine, turbo, and other parts separately.

Very few people are going to want to buy a hacked up car even if it puts 500 rhwp to the ground.
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post #3 of 7 Old April 30th, 2018, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imcarloslol View Post
Just seeing would anyone be interested in buying or trading for this stang.
5 0 stroked
Forged internals - eagle crank rods diamond pistons
Cylinder heads and cams are stock for now. Heads are ported and polished .
On3 70mm turbo kit with intercooler
340lph aeromotive fuel pump with sumped tank.
All new braided fuel hoses
Tubular k member and front control arms
Agx adjustable sprins in the rear and agx coilovers in the front
Stock gears rebuilt rear end.
Mgw short shifter
Boost , fuel pressure , and AFR gauge (not mounted yet but installed)
Everything works how it should
Front cobra bumper and hood scoop are not painted
Ac does not work. The system works but it leaks freon. Heat works perfect
Tan leather interior no rips
Brand new top with rear glass not plastic.
Convertible hydraulic cylinders are new.
HID bulbs in clear lenses.
3 inch exhaust all the way up to turbo. Very loud and aggressive.
Dyno tuned on 93 octane made 496/ 592 . With cams the horsepower number will be up there with the torque.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Just testing waters though let me know if you want to make an offer or trade .

The post I put on Facebook. What is a reasonable price to sell for?
Didn't you just buy this car like 2 months ago? Why are you looking to sell now? Seems like something isn't quite right one way or another.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehrmantraut View Post
Your car has had so much stuff done to it, that you've pretty much fenced out 98% of your potential market. If you really want to sell the car in a way to recoup your money, you should pull the engine and return the car to as stock as possible (including painting the bumper cover), sell the car, and then sell the engine, turbo, and other parts separately.

Very few people are going to want to buy a hacked up car even if it puts 500 rhwp to the ground.
It depends on the market, and the buyer. Some people prefer bought not built and would hop all over it just for dyno numbers. Others won't touch it. I agree though that the $$ OP gets will probably work out better if he were to part it out. Unfortunately, he bought the car built as listed (minus a few mods possibly), so he can't return to it to stock, without buying additional stock parts.

2003 Redfire & Black V6. Full suspension, 8.8 w/ 4.10s, tuned. 4.3L stroker + turbo capable of 550 hp soon

1992 5.0 Auto Hatchback...needs wiring, interior, ...basically everything

RIP: 2015 SHO PP, 12.87 @107 1/4 mile
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post #4 of 7 Old April 30th, 2018, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by imcarloslol View Post
Just seeing would anyone be interested in buying or trading for this stang.
5 0 stroked
Forged internals - eagle crank rods diamond pistons
Cylinder heads and cams are stock for now. Heads are ported and polished .
On3 70mm turbo kit with intercooler
340lph aeromotive fuel pump with sumped tank.
All new braided fuel hoses
Tubular k member and front control arms
Agx adjustable sprins in the rear and agx coilovers in the front
Stock gears rebuilt rear end.
Mgw short shifter
Boost , fuel pressure , and AFR gauge (not mounted yet but installed)
Everything works how it should
Front cobra bumper and hood scoop are not painted
Ac does not work. The system works but it leaks freon. Heat works perfect
Tan leather interior no rips
Brand new top with rear glass not plastic.
Convertible hydraulic cylinders are new.
HID bulbs in clear lenses.
3 inch exhaust all the way up to turbo. Very loud and aggressive.
Dyno tuned on 93 octane made 496/ 592 . With cams the horsepower number will be up there with the torque.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Just testing waters though let me know if you want to make an offer or trade .

The post I put on Facebook. What is a reasonable price to sell for?
Didn't you just buy this car like 2 months ago? Why are you looking to sell now? Seems like something isn't quite right one way or another.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehrmantraut View Post
Your car has had so much stuff done to it, that you've pretty much fenced out 98% of your potential market. If you really want to sell the car in a way to recoup your money, you should pull the engine and return the car to as stock as possible (including painting the bumper cover), sell the car, and then sell the engine, turbo, and other parts separately.

Very few people are going to want to buy a hacked up car even if it puts 500 rhwp to the ground.
It depends on the market, and the buyer. Some people prefer bought not built and would hop all over it just for dyno numbers. Others won't touch it. I agree though that the $$ OP gets will probably work out better if he were to part it out. Unfortunately, he bought the car built as listed (minus a few mods possibly), so he can't return to it to stock, without buying additional stock parts.
Everything is perfectly fine with it. Only thing wrong with it when I bought it was:
it needed the fuel gauge fixed (i took it apart and soldered the wire back to the float)
Needed a new alternator ( bad diode made car think it was a bad camshaft sensor) that's all. I fixed everything and I just dont want to drive the value out of it.
I would like to get a newer model mustang before I put too many miles on it.

Don't be afraid to show your ignorance, its how you learn.
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post #5 of 7 Old May 1st, 2018, 10:54 AM
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I see cars with similar mods list between 9-13k.

---------- Post added at 09:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:53 AM ----------

And in a car like that, with built everything, I dont think the miles matter too much


2000 Mustang GT vert - Gone
2002 Mustang GT coupe - Sold on 12/20/17
2007 BMW 335i
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post #6 of 7 Old May 1st, 2018, 11:03 AM
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I would think several thousand miles after the build is finished would be beneficial. It would prove to any prospective buyer that everything is broken in and working correctly.

ProCharger P-1SC, 9 psi, STD 396/383; Uncorrected 388/375; SAE 383/370.
Ret. USAF 1969-1973,1980-1996: Vietnam veteran. Aircraft maintenance. R & D, ICBM Operations.
Also own: 1997 Harley FXDWG, 1998 F-150, and 2002 Corvette LS1

Last edited by Eagle2000GT; May 1st, 2018 at 02:18 PM.
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post #7 of 7 Old May 1st, 2018, 11:57 AM
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drive it for a while. put several thousand miles on it. I wouldn't buy a fully built blown/tuebo/nitrous car with next to no miles on the setup. it screams to me that something happened on the first thousand miles.

IE:
something not clearanced right...
melted hole in piston on dyno..
rod/crank bearing failure on dyno..
drivabiluty issues...
transmission failing, etc.

for example. I would rather buy eagles stock car with the million or so supercharged miles he has on it over a 500 mile built Forced induction setup on a car.
Eagle2000GT likes this.

Mmr900 4.75 striker. Stock heads, CMS stage 2 turbo cams, on3 67mm ball bwaring billet wheel turbo kit @12.7 psi
539 rwhp / 601 rwtq

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