From Vortech to Turbo - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 59 Old October 25th, 2018, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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From Vortech to Turbo

I dont post much on here but this winter Im happy to be switching my car over from my V3 Vortech over to a Precision 7675. Using a CG Fab Race hotside.

This year with the blower the car made 520rwhp and 440tq at 14psi and 93 pump.

Major changes this winter will the turbo kit, some major weight reduction, Manual brakes and steering, and switching over to E-85.

Old Setup


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post #2 of 59 Old October 25th, 2018, 07:16 PM
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Clean engine bay. What coil pack kit is that? Did you delete the a/c system?


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post #3 of 59 Old October 25th, 2018, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Clean engine bay. What coil pack kit is that? Did you delete the a/c system?


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It's just some msd packs that I relocated to the back firewall.

Ac has been completely deleted.

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post #4 of 59 Old October 25th, 2018, 09:45 PM
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It's just some msd packs that I relocated to the back firewall.

Ac has been completely deleted.

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Ya my a/c hasnít worked in years. I would like to take out every bit of it. I wish I snagged that V3 off of you though


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post #5 of 59 Old October 25th, 2018, 09:57 PM
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Welcome to hell LOL i mean the turbo club.


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post #6 of 59 Old October 25th, 2018, 10:34 PM
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Welcome to hell LOL i mean the turbo club.
A strong degree of truth to this statement. LoL

had i kept my car blown. My car would have been driveable for nearly everyday of the last 3 years. Since i went turbo. Its probably been on the road 4-5 months in the last 3 years. Should be different this coming season though.

Mmr900 4.75 striker. Stock heads, CMS stage 2 turbo cams, on3 67mm ball bwaring billet wheel turbo kit @12.7 psi
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post #7 of 59 Old October 26th, 2018, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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A strong degree of truth to this statement. LoL

had i kept my car blown. My car would have been driveable for nearly everyday of the last 3 years. Since i went turbo. Its probably been on the road 4-5 months in the last 3 years. Should be different this coming season though.
I hope I get some drive time out of it lol. It's not a daily at all by any means but I hit a lot of track events every year and enjoy the occasional drive to work.

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post #8 of 59 Old October 26th, 2018, 02:52 PM
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You will, not every project has the same hurdles. It will be stupid fast compared to the blower.
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Mmr900 4.75 striker. Stock heads, CMS stage 2 turbo cams, on3 67mm ball bwaring billet wheel turbo kit @12.7 psi
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post #9 of 59 Old October 26th, 2018, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thats what I hope. Its been high 6's on the old setup. Hoping for low 6's next year.


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post #10 of 59 Old October 30th, 2018, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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More turbo mockup fun. Getting the rad and fan where I want it. Looks like I will have plenty of room for everything now.





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post #11 of 59 Old October 31st, 2018, 01:45 AM
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will be interesting to see the difference in torque once its all said and done

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post #12 of 59 Old October 31st, 2018, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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will be interesting to see the difference in torque once its all said and done
Yeah Im looking forward to comparing dyno graphs. Should be good too since i'm switching to e-85


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post #13 of 59 Old October 31st, 2018, 07:20 PM
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Thumbs down

Your moving that radiator pretty far forward. That 7675 turbo isn't really that big to have to relocate radiator

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post #14 of 59 Old November 1st, 2018, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Your moving that radiator pretty far forward. That 7675 turbo isn't really that big to have to relocate radiator
The housing was touching the rad fan if I would have kept it in the facotry location. Even tighter wth the ptp blanket. Also might as well make room for bigger and better things in the future right?

The way I have it now the radiator will be pretty well hidden too.
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post #15 of 59 Old November 4th, 2018, 10:48 AM
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I moved my stock rad to same place as I didn't like how close housing was to fan. Except I just cut lower mounts off and then notched lower support. Then reused the lower mounts by welding them 2" forward into support. Cut out the entire top of rad support and used 3" and 2" 1/8" plate to rebuild it. Then modified stock upper mounts to get held in with a single screw from back side. Like you found it gives a ton of room for turbo while still being able to use stock replacement parts for rad or fan if need be. Plus it is a ton cleaner looking now.

Looking back I should have just bent up some round tube and replaced lower area. I suppose I still can but it's done for now.
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post #16 of 59 Old November 5th, 2018, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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I moved my stock rad to same place as I didn't like how close housing was to fan. Except I just cut lower mounts off and then notched lower support. Then reused the lower mounts by welding them 2" forward into support. Cut out the entire top of rad support and used 3" and 2" 1/8" plate to rebuild it. Then modified stock upper mounts to get held in with a single screw from back side. Like you found it gives a ton of room for turbo while still being able to use stock replacement parts for rad or fan if need be. Plus it is a ton cleaner looking now.

Looking back I should have just bent up some round tube and replaced lower area. I suppose I still can but it's done for now.
Yep thats exactly what Im doing. Chopped off the lower core support, drilled two holes underneath the top of the factory rad mount so that the plastic tabs slide into. Will be fabbing up a lower tubular support and will also act as a mounting point for my fmic.


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post #17 of 59 Old November 5th, 2018, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ares View Post
I moved my stock rad to same place as I didn't like how close housing was to fan. Except I just cut lower mounts off and then notched lower support. Then reused the lower mounts by welding them 2" forward into support. Cut out the entire top of rad support and used 3" and 2" 1/8" plate to rebuild it. Then modified stock upper mounts to get held in with a single screw from back side. Like you found it gives a ton of room for turbo while still being able to use stock replacement parts for rad or fan if need be. Plus it is a ton cleaner looking now.

Looking back I should have just bent up some round tube and replaced lower area. I suppose I still can but it's done for now.
Got any pics of this to share?


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738 RWHP 691 FT LB
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post #18 of 59 Old November 6th, 2018, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 98SnakeHorse View Post
Yep thats exactly what Im doing. Chopped off the lower core support, drilled two holes underneath the top of the factory rad mount so that the plastic tabs slide into. Will be fabbing up a lower tubular support and will also act as a mounting point for my fmic.
I thought about going that route when I did mine. To do it that way the radiator will sit lower than the bottom of core was. My car sits very low in the front and the core had already been bent to hell from objects hitting. I cut holes to put lower rubber bushings into the support and notched out the core to fit bottom of fan shrowd. This will raise the radiator about an 1 from stock location. I plasma cut top part of the support from 3 inches to 1 inch just in the area to fit the width of radiator. I ordered some universal top mounts from American muscle and modified them and used self tapings screw to secure it to the core. Dont forget to use rubber insulators on the top and of the radiator or it will crack.

02 roush turbo forged and built
mhs stage 3 heads cms 2.5 turbo cams
CG T6 hot side billet BW S478 with race cover
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post #19 of 59 Old November 7th, 2018, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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I thought about going that route when I did mine. To do it that way the radiator will sit lower than the bottom of core was. My car sits very low in the front and the core had already been bent to hell from objects hitting. I cut holes to put lower rubber bushings into the support and notched out the core to fit bottom of fan shrowd. This will raise the radiator about an 1 from stock location. I plasma cut top part of the support from 3 inches to 1 inch just in the area to fit the width of radiator. I ordered some universal top mounts from American muscle and modified them and used self tapings screw to secure it to the core. Dont forget to use rubber insulators on the top and of the radiator or it will crack.
Yeah the radiator is quite a bit lower than before but I think it should be alright.. I will be putting rubber insulators in the holes I drilled for final assembly to prevent the rad from cracking.


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post #20 of 59 Old November 9th, 2018, 06:59 PM
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Got any pics of this to share?
Yep I can put up a few. I'll start a new thread not to clutter 98snakes

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