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post #101 of 164 Old January 5th, 2019, 12:50 AM
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Thanks for the info! I’ll definitely look into them, any other tips in terms of rotating assembly for this?

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post #102 of 164 Old January 7th, 2019, 12:57 PM
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Honestly, I am struggling in that area as well. I'm going to try and find a used Cobra/forged crank and probably go with Manley rods and pistons (or Diamond pistons) but that will be something I am going to have to dive into much deeper when I get to that point. My plan is to build it safe to 1000hp, but realistically I'll only be putting down 500-600, but I want to build it once and be done so the only limiting factor will be fuel and how much boost I want. because let's be honest... you're never satisfied with the power.

I'll never be putting down anywhere near a 1000hp in this car... I value my life to much.
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post #103 of 164 Old January 7th, 2019, 01:36 PM
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My plan is to build it safe to 1000hp, but realistically I'll only be putting down 500-600,
First I built it to hold 750hp, only planning on making 500hp. Then I built it for 1000hp only expecting 650hp, and now I'm regretting not going with better rods for 1200+hp.


Quote:
I'll never be putting down anywhere near a 1000hp in this car... I value my life to much.
Fortunately for me my life is worthless. I'm ready to see what 25psi does.

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post #104 of 164 Old January 7th, 2019, 02:26 PM
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I used to spend quite a bit of time here but life happened when I found out I was having a baby (not me, but my fiance lol) . I'm guilty of spending more time following FaceBook groups simply because it's quick and easy to access. I do feel the quality of conversation and information is overall better here on MM. Having my son sparked a wire in me to get a little more realistic for a while financially. I still have my 2000 GT and still believe I will own it forever. I have bought a few parts over the last couple years, but mostly just maintaining what I have and saving for the future. I recently bought a truck (wanted one for a long time) and am saving money for a house for my family. Once I get that, I'll return to my old ways - I hope. I have a spare 4v B head longblock on an engine stand in the garage and many 96-98 cobra parts to build a lot of power, if my stock 2v ever breaks. Right now, I'm focusing on building my rear end and getting into the 11's with the 400whp I have. I recently bought some 15" Weld RT-S71 rears and am going to buy some budget 17x4.5" skinnies this weekend.

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post #105 of 164 Old January 8th, 2019, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
First I built it to hold 750hp, only planning on making 500hp. Then I built it for 1000hp only expecting 650hp, and now I'm regretting not going with better rods for 1200+hp.
That's what I'm afraid of. I'm hoping 1000hp limit will satisfy the craving because I don't know if I could put 800-900+hp in this chassis and feel safe. I'd have to seriously mod the hell out of it to safely put the power down. There's already enough mustang memes.



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post #106 of 164 Old January 8th, 2019, 11:25 AM
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There's already enough mustang memes.
most of those guys are at stock power levels lol
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post #107 of 164 Old January 13th, 2019, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dexdiman View Post
Honestly, I am struggling in that area as well. I'm going to try and find a used Cobra/forged crank and probably go with Manley rods and pistons (or Diamond pistons) but that will be something I am going to have to dive into much deeper when I get to that point. My plan is to build it safe to 1000hp, but realistically I'll only be putting down 500-600, but I want to build it once and be done so the only limiting factor will be fuel and how much boost I want. because let's be honest... you're never satisfied with the power.

I'll never be putting down anywhere near a 1000hp in this car... I value my life to much.
yeah, I plan to get new rods and pistons and upgrade the heads. really my end game is to between 500-600hp boost wise I dont know yet, turbo or s/c
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post #108 of 164 Old January 13th, 2019, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
First I built it to hold 750hp, only planning on making 500hp. Then I built it for 1000hp only expecting 650hp, and now I'm regretting not going with better rods for 1200+hp.




Fortunately for me my life is worthless. I'm ready to see what 25psi does.

I originally buillt mine for 1000 expecting 600-700 hp. But now after seeing people push some things as far as they do......im going to test the shit out of these parts. Lol. Lets see what likes 30+ psi
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post #109 of 164 Old January 13th, 2019, 08:31 PM
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I originally buillt mine for 1000 expecting 600-700 hp. But now after seeing people push some things as far as they do......im going to test the shit out of these parts. Lol. Lets see what likes 30+ psi
I miss the days of the daily driver mods. The guys that still drove their car on the street bt made moderate mods. I quit the race scene when I was 23 absolutely broke and the motor I just built blew up after 500 miles. Those were hard time.

If this forum is for the 1000 hp + crowd the it is about to die. I've injoyed the discussion. I have nothing else to offer.

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post #110 of 164 Old January 14th, 2019, 12:31 AM
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I miss the days of the daily driver mods. The guys that still drove their car on the street bt made moderate mods. I quit the race scene when I was 23 absolutely broke and the motor I just built blew up after 500 miles. Those were hard time.

If this forum is for the 1000 hp + crowd the it is about to die. I've injoyed the discussion. I have nothing else to offer.
Yeah when it comes to modding cars its always a roller coaster man. My car is still streetable but its far from a daily driver anymore. I am strongly considering buying another and just do some simple stuff and make a nice looking and sounding cruiser with decent power. Mine is getting ridiculous. Haha

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post #111 of 164 Old January 14th, 2019, 12:41 AM
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Yeah when it comes to modding cars its always a roller coaster man. My car is still streetable but its far from a daily driver anymore. I am strongly considering buying another and just do some simple stuff and make a nice looking and sounding cruiser with decent power. Mine is getting ridiculous. Haha


Mine is a DD. So far it is just a 4.6 2v with PI heads, blower cams, forged internals and full bolt ons


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post #112 of 164 Old January 14th, 2019, 11:12 AM
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yeah, I plan to get new rods and pistons and upgrade the heads. really my end game is to between 500-600hp boost wise I dont know yet, turbo or s/c
A turbo is cheaper and easier to make the power, but I am planning to get a roots/PD SC. I know they are the most expensive but that whine!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT View Post
I miss the days of the daily driver mods. The guys that still drove their car on the street bt made moderate mods. I quit the race scene when I was 23 absolutely broke and the motor I just built blew up after 500 miles. Those were hard time.

If this forum is for the 1000 hp + crowd the it is about to die. I've injoyed the discussion. I have nothing else to offer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Froush View Post
Yeah when it comes to modding cars its always a roller coaster man. My car is still streetable but its far from a daily driver anymore. I am strongly considering buying another and just do some simple stuff and make a nice looking and sounding cruiser with decent power. Mine is getting ridiculous. Haha
I want to keep this as a fun street car around 500hp, but know the motor is safe no matter what. Plus, the difference between a 600hp safe motor and a 1000hp safe motor isn't that much of a cost difference. I just want to build it once as I'm not planning to make this a drag/dyno monster. I will drag and auto-x for fun in the summer from time to time, but I don't want to ruin the car putting power into it. I'm using a modded Cobra as my guide. If they can have fun and be really streetable with 500ish hp then that's what I'm shooting for.



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post #113 of 164 Old January 14th, 2019, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by dexdiman View Post
A turbo is cheaper and easier to make the power, but I am planning to get a roots/PD SC. I know they are the most expensive but that whine!!











I want to keep this as a fun street car around 500hp, but know the motor is safe no matter what. Plus, the difference between a 600hp safe motor and a 1000hp safe motor isn't that much of a cost difference. I just want to build it once as I'm not planning to make this a drag/dyno monster. I will drag and auto-x for fun in the summer from time to time, but I don't want to ruin the car putting power into it. I'm using a modded Cobra as my guide. If they can have fun and be really streetable with 500ish hp then that's what I'm shooting for.


And the torque down low with a roots will be a lot of fun

My goal is 500 hp at the wheels. I will be going the centri route once my suspension is updated. She rides like a boat with the stock stuff lol.


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post #114 of 164 Old January 14th, 2019, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dexdiman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawaiianbro View Post
yeah, I plan to get new rods and pistons and upgrade the heads. really my end game is to between 500-600hp boost wise I dont know yet, turbo or s/c
A turbo is cheaper and easier to make the power, but I am planning to get a roots/PD SC. I know they are the most expensive but that whine!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT View Post
I miss the days of the daily driver mods. The guys that still drove their car on the street bt made moderate mods. I quit the race scene when I was 23 absolutely broke and the motor I just built blew up after 500 miles. Those were hard time.

If this forum is for the 1000 hp + crowd the it is about to die. I've injoyed the discussion. I have nothing else to offer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Froush View Post
Yeah when it comes to modding cars its always a roller coaster man. My car is still streetable but its far from a daily driver anymore. I am strongly considering buying another and just do some simple stuff and make a nice looking and sounding cruiser with decent power. Mine is getting ridiculous. Haha
I want to keep this as a fun street car around 500hp, but know the motor is safe no matter what. Plus, the difference between a 600hp safe motor and a 1000hp safe motor isn't that much of a cost difference. I just want to build it once as I'm not planning to make this a drag/dyno monster. I will drag and auto-x for fun in the summer from time to time, but I don't want to ruin the car putting power into it. I'm using a modded Cobra as my guide. If they can have fun and be really streetable with 500ish hp then that's what I'm shooting for.
Maybe i am bitter about the whole thing.. but i would never say going turbo is easy. Built motor, blower cams and a centri at 15 psi is easy.... most difficult thing is belt slip, but they have 8 rib conversions.

Turbo setups are plagued with shady manufacturers, poor business ethics, next to no customer support, and just about everything is a project. Not even getting into the fact that a single turbo has pipes literally in the way of everything. Oil filter relocation typically consists of the filter hanging off of the transmission by one or 2 bolts. Power steering lines needing to be professionally bent to exist, steering shafts that contact the header primaries. Warped header flanges that are out .035" (1/32") from the factory on both sides, leaky V band junctions that are warped, weak V band clamps, a T-4 turbo mounting surface thats .060" or nearly 1/16th of an inch from being flat... not to mention tubes and tubes of RTV copper.. which smells like a 1970's nicotine couch.

Not even getting into the fact that everything melts if left unattended. So fire wrap everything. If you don't ceramic coat your pipes youre looking at header wrap. Nearly $200 of the good stuff to do the whole turbo kit to the mid pipes.. leaving you itchy from fiberglass after every wrench session. I used the cheap stuff once and it caught on fire, whole car smelled like a burnt tortilla for a week..

Aside from all that.. yeah, easy! 🙂

Felt good to get that off my chest.
As for any take home advice to on3 turbo kit shoppers.
-Take the headers and immediately check the flatness of the flanges and either have a shop mill them or be prepared to play alexander grambell with the phone calls with on3 for weeks about it.. and then end up milling them anyway.

-mark and dent the header primary doe the ateering shaft. If a ball hammer doesnt do the trick, a carefully places impact socket and a hydraulic press will do the trick.

- buy better v bands as seen in every thread
-buy v band gaskets and copious amounts of rtv copper
- buy SS 3" ball and sock junctions and cut and have a shop weld them up to the down pipe back exhaust. Otherwise you will blow your exhaust pipes off and have them dragging down the highway once a week.

-cut the fan for clearance,

- wrap all of your cables and hoses in heat proofing

-ceramic coat your pipes.
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post #115 of 164 Old January 14th, 2019, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT View Post
I miss the days of the daily driver mods. The guys that still drove their car on the street bt made moderate mods. I quit the race scene when I was 23 absolutely broke and the motor I just built blew up after 500 miles. Those were hard time.

If this forum is for the 1000 hp + crowd the it is about to die. I've injoyed the discussion. I have nothing else to offer.
I feel you on that. After having spent a bunch of time and money on building a fast turbo v6 car. I'm a little nervous that I have killed the streetability and reliability of the car.
Don't get me wrong, this car is fast. And it still is a street car. A/C works, heat works, stereo, no cage, no drag pack. Hell I just ordered a new double din head unit and speakers to replace mine since my rear deck speakers are blown out and my head unit is super old.
But some days I just go, well, did I take this thing too far?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snorky View Post
Maybe i am bitter about the whole thing.. but i would never say going turbo is easy. Built motor, blower cams and a centri at 15 psi is easy.... most difficult thing is belt slip, but they have 8 rib conversions.

Turbo setups are plagued with shady manufacturers, poor business ethics, next to no customer support, and just about everything is a project. Not even getting into the fact that a single turbo has pipes literally in the way of everything. Oil filter relocation typically consists of the filter hanging off of the transmission by one or 2 bolts. Power steering lines needing to be professionally bent to exist, steering shafts that contact the header primaries. Warped header flanges that are out .035" (1/32") from the factory on both sides, leaky V band junctions that are warped, weak V band clamps, a T-4 turbo mounting surface thats .060" or nearly 1/16th of an inch from being flat... not to mention tubes and tubes of RTV copper.. which smells like a 1970's nicotine couch.

Not even getting into the fact that everything melts if left unattended. So fire wrap everything. If you don't ceramic coat your pipes youre looking at header wrap. Nearly $200 of the good stuff to do the whole turbo kit to the mid pipes.. leaving you itchy from fiberglass after every wrench session. I used the cheap stuff once and it caught on fire, whole car smelled like a burnt tortilla for a week..

Aside from all that.. yeah, easy! 🙂

Felt good to get that off my chest.
As for any take home advice to on3 turbo kit shoppers.
-Take the headers and immediately check the flatness of the flanges and either have a shop mill them or be prepared to play alexander grambell with the phone calls with on3 for weeks about it.. and then end up milling them anyway.

-mark and dent the header primary doe the ateering shaft. If a ball hammer doesnt do the trick, a carefully places impact socket and a hydraulic press will do the trick.

- buy better v bands as seen in every thread
-buy v band gaskets and copious amounts of rtv copper
- buy SS 3" ball and sock junctions and cut and have a shop weld them up to the down pipe back exhaust. Otherwise you will blow your exhaust pipes off and have them dragging down the highway once a week.

-cut the fan for clearance,

- wrap all of your cables and hoses in heat proofing

-ceramic coat your pipes.
I feel you on the turbo stuff. They definitely can be a pain in the ass, and I have more room in the engine bay than the 4.6 guys. Some of my challenges

- had to grind down the header flanges to not hit my ARP head studs. Also, my flanges ended up being warped and I had to drill out the bolt holes to get them to fit. I have new flanges that will need welded on eventually but for right now it works and I don't plan on messing with it until I absolutely have to take the headers off again.

- headers themselves are a pain in the ass to get on/off. Also a pain in the ass to work on anything in the front of the car - PS pump, Alternator, water pump, etc.

- I wrapped everything in heat wrap and painted it with VHT exhaust paint prior to that. I left my headers bare though.

- Had to run an oil scavenge pump to keep the car from blowing oil smoke from the drain backing up due to the location of my turbo.

- had to relocate the battery to the trunk

- when I originally installed this kit, the header was too close to one of my AC lines, so it melted and spewed awful R134 all over the shop and the engine bay. I eventually fixed that but cost me a couple hundred benji's

- I had to cut some of the plastic shroud off of my radiator fan to clear the turbo

- never had downpipe issues, but I originally had a ton of issues with continuously blowing off cold side pipes. Finally got that under control.

On the better side, my kit didn't involve me having to use any RTV on anything or relocating the oil filter at least?
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post #116 of 164 Old January 14th, 2019, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT View Post
I miss the days of the daily driver mods. The guys that still drove their car on the street bt made moderate mods. I quit the race scene when I was 23 absolutely broke and the motor I just built blew up after 500 miles. Those were hard time.

If this forum is for the 1000 hp + crowd the it is about to die. I've injoyed the discussion. I have nothing else to offer.
I feel you on that. After having spent a bunch of time and money on building a fast turbo v6 car. I'm a little nervous that I have killed the streetability and reliability of the car.
Don't get me wrong, this car is fast. And it still is a street car. A/C works, heat works, stereo, no cage, no drag pack. Hell I just ordered a new double din head unit and speakers to replace mine since my rear deck speakers are blown out and my head unit is super old.
But some days I just go, well, did I take this thing too far?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snorky View Post
Maybe i am bitter about the whole thing.. but i would never say going turbo is easy. Built motor, blower cams and a centri at 15 psi is easy.... most difficult thing is belt slip, but they have 8 rib conversions.

Turbo setups are plagued with shady manufacturers, poor business ethics, next to no customer support, and just about everything is a project. Not even getting into the fact that a single turbo has pipes literally in the way of everything. Oil filter relocation typically consists of the filter hanging off of the transmission by one or 2 bolts. Power steering lines needing to be professionally bent to exist, steering shafts that contact the header primaries. Warped header flanges that are out .035" (1/32") from the factory on both sides, leaky V band junctions that are warped, weak V band clamps, a T-4 turbo mounting surface thats .060" or nearly 1/16th of an inch from being flat... not to mention tubes and tubes of RTV copper.. which smells like a 1970's nicotine couch.

Not even getting into the fact that everything melts if left unattended. So fire wrap everything. If you don't ceramic coat your pipes youre looking at header wrap. Nearly $200 of the good stuff to do the whole turbo kit to the mid pipes.. leaving you itchy from fiberglass after every wrench session. I used the cheap stuff once and it caught on fire, whole car smelled like a burnt tortilla for a week..

Aside from all that.. yeah, easy! 🙂

Felt good to get that off my chest.
As for any take home advice to on3 turbo kit shoppers.
-Take the headers and immediately check the flatness of the flanges and either have a shop mill them or be prepared to play alexander grambell with the phone calls with on3 for weeks about it.. and then end up milling them anyway.

-mark and dent the header primary doe the ateering shaft. If a ball hammer doesnt do the trick, a carefully places impact socket and a hydraulic press will do the trick.

- buy better v bands as seen in every thread
-buy v band gaskets and copious amounts of rtv copper
- buy SS 3" ball and sock junctions and cut and have a shop weld them up to the down pipe back exhaust. Otherwise you will blow your exhaust pipes off and have them dragging down the highway once a week.

-cut the fan for clearance,

- wrap all of your cables and hoses in heat proofing

-ceramic coat your pipes.
I feel you on the turbo stuff. They definitely can be a pain in the ass, and I have more room in the engine bay than the 4.6 guys. Some of my challenges

- had to grind down the header flanges to not hit my ARP head studs. Also, my flanges ended up being warped and I had to drill out the bolt holes to get them to fit. I have new flanges that will need welded on eventually but for right now it works and I don't plan on messing with it until I absolutely have to take the headers off again.

- headers themselves are a pain in the ass to get on/off. Also a pain in the ass to work on anything in the front of the car - PS pump, Alternator, water pump, etc.

- I wrapped everything in heat wrap and painted it with VHT exhaust paint prior to that. I left my headers bare though.

- Had to run an oil scavenge pump to keep the car from blowing oil smoke from the drain backing up due to the location of my turbo.

- had to relocate the battery to the trunk

- when I originally installed this kit, the header was too close to one of my AC lines, so it melted and spewed awful R134 all over the shop and the engine bay. I eventually fixed that but cost me a couple hundred benji's

- I had to cut some of the plastic shroud off of my radiator fan to clear the turbo

- never had downpipe issues, but I originally had a ton of issues with continuously blowing off cold side pipes. Finally got that under control.

On the better side, my kit didn't involve me having to use any RTV on anything or relocating the oil filter at least?
LOL thanks for letting me in on the turbo v6 life. I was actually really curious about the hurdles you guys had in your hardcore v6 builds. To be honest, i have always wanted to get a 3.8 v6, cam it and shoot nitrous or boost into it to see what it could do.

Mmr900 4.75 striker. Stock heads, CMS stage 2 turbo cams, on3 67mm ball bwaring billet wheel turbo kit @12.7 psi
539 rwhp / 601 rwtq

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post #117 of 164 Old January 14th, 2019, 11:56 PM
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While i havent had my turbo setup actually in the car yet, mine seems to fit well on the jackstand. Lol. I dont expect any of the problems you guys are talking about

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post #118 of 164 Old January 15th, 2019, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Snorky View Post
Maybe i am bitter about the whole thing.. but i would never say going turbo is easy. Built motor, blower cams and a centri at 15 psi is easy.... most difficult thing is belt slip, but they have 8 rib conversions.

Turbo setups are plagued with shady manufacturers, poor business ethics, next to no customer support, and just about everything is a project. Not even getting into the fact that a single turbo has pipes literally in the way of everything. Oil filter relocation typically consists of the filter hanging off of the transmission by one or 2 bolts. Power steering lines needing to be professionally bent to exist, steering shafts that contact the header primaries. Warped header flanges that are out .035" (1/32") from the factory on both sides, leaky V band junctions that are warped, weak V band clamps, a T-4 turbo mounting surface thats .060" or nearly 1/16th of an inch from being flat... not to mention tubes and tubes of RTV copper.. which smells like a 1970's nicotine .
I see you discovered the joys of an on3 kit. You really have found the quality or should I say lack of quality and workmanship . All you see on Facebook is on3 nut swingers saying how great their kits are. I ran on3 kit for 3 plus years and never could get one of v bands to seal. I just finished my install of my CG kit and there is a night and day difference in quality. Only needed RTV on the headers and turbo to flange. V bands sealed just using clamps. The CG kit also required some moving of power steering lines and oil filter relocation but with doing battery relocation my oil filter now sits where my battery was. I also had to move radiator forward because I went with T6 hot side and big turbo.

Truth be told there are no bolt on and go turbo kits. I always say if you can't cut, weld , fabricate ( from reading your build I know you can) or have the money to pay someone to do it then turbo is not going to be your best option.

02 roush turbo forged and built
mhs stage 3 heads cms 2.5 turbo cams
CG T6 hot side billet BW S478 with race cover
Dyno numbers coming
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post #119 of 164 Old January 15th, 2019, 09:10 AM
King Trashmouth
 
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Granted most of my issues were related to the hack of a fabricator I got my kit from (putting the turbos right against the radiator, no way to connect a hose to them, using shoddy connections, hitting the sway bar, hitting one of the drive pulleys and just taking it off, taking the dipstick out, and just general half-assery), a turbo in general is a huge pain in the dick compared to blower only. All that piping and routing alone, getting everything to line up, the oil feed and drain or the added expense of ball bearing, and thermal management is just a hassle.

That said, even with the total compound clusterfuck that is my car, it's still a totally street car. It's still got full interior, power steering, power brakes, heat, and at part throttle it drives just as fine as it ever did as a stock 2V. Sure I'm paranoid about shit breaking, but I'm just as paranoid with my stock vehicles. I'm always checking everything, stock or modified, for leaks or strange noises, and this doesn't really get any special treatment.
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post #120 of 164 Old January 15th, 2019, 10:10 AM
6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
 
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Don't kill me for saying this but why go turbo over supercharger? I mean it seems like centrifugal blowers get you there easier and cheaper. Don't get me wrong my truck is twin turbo so I get the appeal but from a price and sanity stand point it seems aftermarket super chargers are better if it didn't come stock turbo

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2001 Mustang GT Convertible - Black with Black Top - 5SPD
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