I think the first thing I would do is see what the torque required to spin the rotating assembly is, with the accessory belt off. Compare the values at hot and cold conditions. That will give you an idea of where to start, whether it's accessories, or the long block itself, and where to go from there.
Thanks for the reply Wicked. I already know deep down it's likely in the short block (bearing clearances ect) but I just needed to hear it from someone else to bring myself to yank the engine back out and tear it down.
I'm not to proud to admit I used plasti gauge to "measure" clearances on the rods and mains, and even the plasti showed on the tight end (0.020 to 0.025) of spec. I should of broke down and bought a micrometer and dial bore gauge and done it the right way.
At the very least I should of ordered a 2nd set of bearings to get my clearances a tad looser, but was being a cheap ass and decided to skip out on the couple hundred $$ to get the right tools and another set of bearings. I was told being on the tight side of spec on the mains with the alum teksid block is okay, but i'm likely tighter than I realized when i put it together.
it's to the point now where it will crank slow even ice cold. So i'm pulling the plug, and pulling it all back apart
before I spin a bearing and wreck a crank or rod.
I post up some pictures when I get it back out and apart
---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
forgot to add, I put a socket on the crank pulley and cold it seemed normal amount of force, and hot it was locked up.
Earlier I started it to back out of the shop to wash it (only ran 10 seconds), washed it and attempted to start up after washing car and it cranked over real slow maybe 2 revolutions and that was it. put a breaker bar on it again and she's as tight as a nun in church on Sunday.
---------- Post added at 08:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 PM ----------
.0020 to .0025*