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imaginary build thread

34K views 428 replies 43 participants last post by  filmman03 
#1 ·
willkommen to my "imaginary" build thread***

the build has begun!

- MHS/Excessive Racing Budget 600HP Shortblock w/ Windage Tray
Excessive Racing 4.6L Budget Shortblock - 600 HP Capable
- MHS Eddy Intake Combo Kit
MHS Edelbrock 4.6L 2V Intake Manifold Combo - 1999 - 2004
- Vortech V3 "Tuner" Supercharger Kit (ordered) w/ CX Racing Intercooler
- Swapping from Trickflow 70mm to 75mm Throttle Body
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...4-Mustang-46L-75mm-Satin-Finish-Throttle-Body
- UPR K Member & Coilover Kit
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-kit-96.html

I'm going to be keeping the CMS Stage II NA Cams and see how they perform. Obviously I'm going to lose some HP/TQ in the process, but that is fine by mine. I can always swap them out later.

Going w/ 42lb Green Top Injectors along w/ an AEM 320LPH Fuel Pump (currently already purchased as I tried out E85).


As for right now; just ordered the Vortech V3 Tuner Kit from Brenspeed. Yea buddy!


*** see reference: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/335377-2v-na-beast-2.html#post6038705 lol :D
 
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#3 ·
yup, daily driver. i don't want anything over the top in terms of power. just need something to put these LS drivers in their place along w/ these funny import guys.

and thanks for the UPR info :)
 
#8 ·
I would sell your cams and buy a set made for your application before doing anything else. There is no need In making a setup like you have and cutting corners where it matters the most.

Your contradicting yourself when you say you want to make x amount of HP then say you don't care if you lose HP by running the wrong cam.
 
#9 ·
i may. CMS blower cams aren't expensive. as it currently stands, im not expecting anything fantastical as far as #'s go. i've been let down by looking at my dyno sheets in the past lol if i can beat a car w/ x amount of HP, then im happy to know i have more than that car does.

i also know that i will be limited due to the cams but also due to the 42lb injectors and possibly the fuel pump.

if i hit 500 or close to it, i'll be satisfied. sure there's always room for improvement. changing pulleys, bigger injectors and blower cams. i just wanna get the big stuff outta the way first, ie supercharger and shortblock.
 
#10 ·
Looks like a decent start. I wish i had money like you to spend on my toys lol.

Good luck.
 
#14 ·
haha i know right! joined almost 2 years ago b/c i was having a problem w/ a misfire and only a CAI. now im going to be built and blown lol

im assuming you are going stroked or already have a stroker motor?
 
#16 ·
Nice man, you'll love the vortech. You gonna run it on the stock bottom end for a few ? If so how much boost? And gonna run the stock motor on e85?

Pate, I do agree... But NA cams actually work good with a centri. Obviously not ideal. But those cams and the blower will max out that bottom end. I think it'll work good.

But, if it were me. When I put the motor in, I'd just buy a centri ground set of cams while it's apart.

Good luck with the build!
 
#17 ·
Thanks man. Yea I'm thinking of tossing in the vortech while i wait for the shortblock. What's the most the stock bottom end can handle?

I may even go back to E85 :)

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#18 ·
Go e85 and run like 8-10psi. It'll do great. The general consensus is like 425rwhp max. But plenty of people have gone past that.

I made 415rwhp @ 11psi on the dyno. After I was making 13psi on the stock motor. So If I had to guess, I'd say at the very least 440rwhp I was making.
 
#23 ·
sweet. may just have to push the shortblock to its limits lol

---------- Post added at 11:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 PM ----------

Really what?

---------- Post added at 02:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:59 AM ----------

Btw eagle, he's already ordered the blower kit. Idk why he said imaginary thread though....
o it was poking fun at JayC from my previous thread i linked to in this one:

These imaginary build threads crack me up! :icon_idea:
 
#22 ·
Really what?

---------- Post added at 02:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:59 AM ----------

Btw eagle, he's already ordered the blower kit. Idk why he said imaginary thread though....
 
#24 ·
Ohhh lol got ya. When you get the Cxracing kit, just remember you'll lose a few lbs of boost. I'd say start with a 3.6 pulley, and either bring a 3.4 or 3.33 pulley too. A gates 108" belt (part # k061080) is used for a 3.6 pulley. But, for dyno time it'll work for a 3.33" pulley too.

But if you decide to settle with the 3.33 pulley, you'll want a 107.5" belt gates part # k061075.


Another thing, you'll free up a lot of power by NOT using the **** vortech plastic intake. Either make your own for $45 or buy one. That thing robbed me of a solid 30rwhp just by switching to a 4" aluminum pipe (45* angle) and using a 90* silicone coupler going from 4" to 3.5" (blower inlet is 3.5") and the blower discharge is 2.75" so you'll need a 2.75" to 3" silicone coupler going from the blower to the intercooler piping. Siliconeintakes.com has everything you'll need and the best couplers imo.
 
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#30 ·
where do i go for different sized pulleys? also how the pulley sizes relate to psi? i'd like to bump up the boost from the get go cuz i am keeping the N/A cams for now and as you said, i'll lose a little boost due to the intercooler.

for the 4" aluminum pipe, how long did you get? i'm seeing just a 1" and 2" length for a 45* 4" diameter pipe.

i need a BOV as well im assuming. i briefly read the BOV placement on this kit
cxracing.com: Front Mount Intercooler Kit 96-04 Ford Mustang 4.6L V8 with Supercharger
isn't ideal cuz its near the MAF. anyone have any issues w/ this kit or heard the same or otherwise? if so, is there a better IC kit?

EDIT: also, do i need the oil cooler? JPC Racing has the same kit for much cheaper w/o the oil cooler.
 
#27 ·
I know Eagle by now good enough to know he was hitting the bottle last night Lol. Most of us regulars on here know each other good enough to know when something is up.
 
#38 ·
Nice!!

3.33 pulley on the stock motor, yea... I think you'll make more then enough boost/power. My vortech v1 S I ran a 2.87 pulley, but wasn't as efficient.

For MAF, I'm assuming your going blow through?? MAF after the throttle body? I'd go with an SCT BA 2600 or 3000... Or do it once, and never have to worry about MAF running out of range, do a vmp slot style MAF.
 
#39 ·
is there a benefit of going w/ the SCT BA 2600/3000 over the 90mm FRPP one or a MAFia?

---------- Post added at 10:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 AM ----------

ready to order some ****...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vor-2a036-333/overview/

Trick Flow Mustang 75mm Throttle Body Satin (96-04) 4.6 24075 - LatemodelRestoration.com

Gates K061075 Multi V-Groove Belt : Amazon.com : Automotive

Aluminum Pipe

Reducer Elbow

Bending Reducer

still unsure of the MAF... which to go with.
 
#43 ·
I'll be using the ba3000 on my setup. First I've heard of this as well.

Filmman, you had me worried a bit, but I feel your pain. Nothing worse than ordering something you don't need or would like to upgrade.
 
#45 ·
It'll work better in a blow through set up... Meaning between intercooler and throttle body.
 
#47 ·
Look into a slot meter with harness. Just pick a location between IC and TB. cut a hole in piping, then weld in flange and drop in slot meter. The harness is plug and play. Just to give you some comparison slot meter and BA 5000 use the same tuning values.

Ps
if you have somebody weld in the flang make sure they get flow direction right. The flange is directional ask me how I know.
 
#48 ·
I run mine form the ic to tb. It's right next to my powerpipe.
Just so u know I peg a ba2800 at 600 whp.
I'm now running the 3000 with no issue at all I made a gasket for it n have no vaccum leaks ect

---------- Post added at 09:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:46 AM ----------

Also you won't need the cone adaptor if u go blow though. That be draw witch I won't do
 
#49 ·
hmmm i was figuring i'd need the cone adapter so that i can attach a coupler to the end of it, otherwise, it would just have the bracket at the end of the housing w/ 4 holes and nothing for a coupler to attach too.

---------- Post added at 10:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:28 AM ----------

alright im thinking of a couple things here....

1. take out the ba2600 from the housing and buy a flange and have it welded into place on a straight piece of piping (somewhat near the stock location or higher for the maf)
Tonsil Style Steel MAF Flange for BA2600, BA3000, GT, V6 (blow-through): VMP Tuning - Superchargers, Tuners, Custom Tunes, & Performance Parts

OR

2. return the ba2600 and get the ba5000 sensor only along with the plug n play harness and flange and have it welded into place.
SCT BA5000 05+ Slot Style MAF Sensor: VMP Tuning - Superchargers, Tuners, Custom Tunes, & Performance Parts
Slot-Style Aluminum MAF Flange for 2.5" to 5" tube for 05+ style, HPX, BA5000: VMP Tuning - Superchargers, Tuners, Custom Tunes, & Performance Parts
Plug & play harness use 05+ Slot-Style MAF sensor on 96-04: VMP Tuning - Superchargers, Tuners, Custom Tunes, & Performance Parts

im leaning towards the first option, if possible as id rather not have to return anything lol

and im not going to be anywhere near 600rwhp (yet) as i am going to install the centri in a few weeks and get the built shortblock later. at which time ill look into getting the ba5000.
 
#50 ·
#52 ·
supercharger is installed!!! but some questions.

supercharger is installed!!! but some questions.

as you can see, i clocked the supercharger so the outlet is facing down, at an angle for the intercooler. is this correct? or should it be at its stock position facing to the left fender?

next you can see i added a ricer looking breather on the passenger side pcv valve. is this okay? this valve is the one that connects to the throttle body. on the throttle body, its the furthest connection to the right, next to the egr. im going to use this connection that is on the right close to the egr, for the bov vacuum line + boost gauge. so is that breather fine on the passenger side?

the drivers side pcv im thinking of either hooking that up to the power pipe or getting another ricer breather. yay or nay on that?



 
#53 ·
install done. loaded up the tune. car took a bit to start (dead battery) but when it started it idled for a second or two then died.

suggestions? vacuum leak somewhere?
 
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