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NEW BUILD!

5K views 40 replies 15 participants last post by  bodyshot 
#1 ·
I ****ed the motor again. I was doing a couple pulls with a buddy of mine when the radiator cap blew off and sprayed coolant all over the engine bay and gave quite a smoke show. What proceeded to happen was the infamous ticking noise I am all to familiar with. Not sure exactly what it is; maybe just a lifter this time IDK but its definitely the same noise I heard when I over-revved the motor.

Nothing will be happening for some time but the wheels are turning already and I'm looking at doing a coyote swap w/ blower.

So eventually you guys will be seeing some stuff for sale; such as the Vortech V3 Si Trim w/ bracket, complete nitrous wet kit (w/ 2 10lb bottles, heater, opener, pressure gauge), Eddy intake w/ 6061 elbow and mmr rails, BBK Long Tubes w/ catted H pipe, etc.

I'm seeing if the shop I go to still has a low milage coyote motor (complete) for me to buy from them. From there; I'm thinking of doing forged internals w/ either a KB, Whipple or Roush blower and the usual bolt ons ie exhaust and intake/tb.

Just curious about my T45 and other things. I'm sure there are dozens of New Edge threads of coyotes swaps (and no i haven't even looked lol) but i'm assuming it is possible to get the T45 to work with some sort of adapter plate or different crank. I'm curious about the engine bay **** as well; enough room with things where they are or are there things that need to be relocated? Curious about front end suspension; will the current stock 2000 work or do I gotta swap out that ****?

I'm sure more questions will arise at some point as well.

Power goals are set to 700-800rwhp.

My buddy has a 2014 coyote w/ a Roush blower and he is putting down over 700rwhp on E85. So that's the goal really.
 
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#2 ·
Filmman, sorry about the bad luck but its nice to see you bouncing back so fast.

Just out of curiosity, how are you getting these builds past smog in Cali?

I've been playing by the rules with mine, which is a pain.
 
#5 ·
Well it's going to be a year or so lol nothing real quick.

I've got a guy here in SoCal that passes me. Just give him the paperwork and his takes a week and calls you to let you know it's ready lol where abouts are you at in Cali? I can ask around if you are up near Sacramento since I'm from there or I can get you the info if you are in SoCal.


CJ, lol I'd like to sell it complete if possible (I.E. Eddy intake, 6061 elbow, TFS Throttle body, MMR fuel rails and 60lb injectors ) but it's not necessary lol
 
#7 ·
True; but I wanna try out a roots style LOL I mean this is all just floating around in my head right now, so I may just reuse the Vortech.

And the T45 just bolts right up?!?!

---------- Post added at 11:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 AM ----------

Yea ok may be reusing the Vortech, I didn't realize blowers were 2k more than Vortechs for the 2V's LOL I just emailed Vortech as well and they want $1,200 for a 11-14 bracket. SMH
 
#11 ·
refill with coolant and see where your at lifters are easy to swap out. Where is the ticking coming from?
 
#13 ·
I'm kinda tired of this MMR motor honestly lol nothing but problems.

Plus stock Coyotes with a vortech on low boost already hits 600s! That's where I am now with boost and nitrous!

2vs are a small niche and I've seen a few of you guys on here with seriously impressive 2vs but I wanna try out the 4v lol

---------- Post added at 10:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 AM ----------

It's winter man, I got all the time in the world. :lol
Haha true true, winter in SoCal is different lol ppl call it boost season haha but I'll keep you posted
 
#14 ·
I think you are making a mistake, Sam.

A centri blown 2v is one of the easiest FI combo's to tune in the entire automotive scene. Boost comes on smoothly and predictably, allowing you to easily adjust the MAF curve or injector slopes, and giving you plenty of time to let out if the AFR goes lean for whatever reason. They are also much more forgiving than other combo's for timing advance.

Despite that, you never had a competent tuner touch your car. There were multiple underlying issues throughout your entire build that needed to be addressed, such as your voltage drop at high RPMs, your fuel pressure drop, belt slip, pegging your MAF, and in the last thread I read you mentioned it going lean in upper RPMs. Instead of addressing those, you added another power adder in the form of nitrous, further complicating the equation.

Your shop was not competent enough to install a return fuel system correctly, do you really think they can manage a Coyote swap? What I forsee happening is you getting the car parted out, the shop being completely overwhelmed with the Coyote swap, and you being plagued by issues for several months before selling the car as a roller and moving on.

This could also serve as a wakeup call, however. You live in the state with one of the best racing scenes in the US. I know there has to be good shops in your area, even if you have to drive a bit. Take the car to someone who doesn't have rocks for brains and have them diagnose what is broken. Fix it, address the other issues this car has had for years. Then added an 8rib kit with a JT trim blower instead of that puny SI trim, take the car to AEM or another REPUTABLE tuner IN PERSON, and enjoy knocking down 700+rwhp without worrying about nitrous.

OR, alternatively, part this car out totally. Send the body to a scrap yard. Buy a new 2015 GT and add a bolt on TVS kit. Enjoy 9 second 1/4 mile times, 700rwhp, and AC with radio. Those combos are very predictable and are absolute monsters. I guarantee that you will be impressed with the power and comfort, and any REPUTABLE tuner will be able to make that thing run safe on e85 for years to come.

With that said, I've enjoyed reading your build threads. Whatever you do chose to do, keep us posted. Good luck man.
 
#15 ·
Tired of the motor?? I think our motors are component enough to satisfy the angry foot. I mean you can make 800rwhp with a turbo and stock ported heads, stock bore and a set of cams, fuel etc. I think your going to step into a whole other world of **** and frustration. I've ran nothing but MMR parts, it's the builder that's to blame or your asking more th en your setup is capable of and over revving the motor looming for power that is not there. NO need in nitrous and a blower for power throw that away and look to a turbo and you will be satisfied.

My suggestion is Inspect the motor and find the issue sell your blower and go turbo. If you want to feel some power come on down to the house and I'll take you for a ride it is impressive for such as small motor to make such big numbers.
 
#16 ·
I'll keep you guys posted. I mean right now its really just a pipe dream that is frustrating as hell. Car has to sit for a bit right now til after the holidays but something big will happen for sure in the coming year.

I know you have had good luck with MMR stuff SSG but I think I got a lemon. I am blaming the builder, MMR lol they assembled the shortblock and it didn't last very long to begin with. After a rebuild with a reputable engine builder here in SoCal, a year later I get the same noise.

It could be an easy fix and just a lifter but I won't know til things come apart. The 2V is a badass motor; I'm not knocking it at all but as you guys know, it has been an uphill battle trying to make power. Voltage, belt slip, fuel pressure, tuning, etc. Non stop issues.

Joe has been doing the best he can do to tune it. I've had a few dyno shops try to do their thing past and present and the results aren't that great. My combo is different for sure but I just want something reliable 100% of the time and the nitrous is really throwing a curveball. I definitely wanna stay boost only now haha I did the nitrous thing; it was fun and different but boost works. It just works.

The possible swap would be a pain for sure but the guys I'm working with on it know coyotes. They build them or mod them daily. They took a GT350 motor and swapped it into Hillbank Motorsports 2014 GT and made over 500rwhp NA. I mean these guys know their coyotes, but nothing about 2V's LOL

It wouldn't be a ridiculous build either. Forged internals good for 1000rwhp, Stage 1-2 CMS Blower Cams, Vortech V3 intercooled on around 15psi with E85. Not easy for sure; but rewarding I'm sure.

But stay tuned guys!
 
#17 ·
You have what you need right now obviously somebody didn't build the motor right or you are over revving it. If you want that motor inspected you can send it to me and I'll go through it and tell you what it needs and get it fixed for you. I really think you need to drop the supercharger and start looking for a turbo yes you're going to make more power with a coyote but you're going to have to spend the even more money just to end up where you could be with a 2 valve if you're looking for 800 rear wheel horsepower
 
#19 ·
Come to the light. Coyote swap that b!tch.

I was as dedicated to the 2V as they come but seeing a a bolt on car make almost as much to the tires as my car with stock driveability was disheartening. All my 2V stuff is for sale and I am in the process of gathering parts to put together a blown coyote for my 98.
 
#21 ·
if i had a dollar for every time Scott said mmr sucks ide be rich, just like if i had to pay a thousand dollars for every mmr motor part scott has bought and used ide still be rich....


Dont coyote swap it, you want power and you can buy a coyote used for 20K you would easily be in the new swap for 3/4 of that by the time you built the motor and added your FI system to it. even if you buy a coyote as power hungry as you are it still has to be built or it will break at the power level your looking for.
 
#22 ·
Dont coyote swap it, you want power and you can buy a coyote used for 20K you would easily be in the new swap for 3/4 of that by the time you built the motor and added your FI system to it. even if you buy a coyote as power hungry as you are it still has to be built or it will break at the power level your looking for.
X1000000000

I've sat down over and over and over again and calculated out the expense. The necessary parts for a good swap add up quick. Especially when you throw FI in the mix. As much as I love the coyote and what it has to offer, they're expensive.
 
#24 ·
Damn. Well I would take the local guys word for it I guess. As long as they can back up there stories. Does AED do in house tunes? They are Cali based right?

---------- Post added at 05:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:45 PM ----------

I'll make you a millionaire Pate.
 
#29 ·
What are you planning to use for the electronics? If you are going to use Ford electronics I'd buy some dyno time and have Ken Bjones Lund remotely tune the car. The FRPP control pack are pretty pricey though and for about $150 more you can pick up a Holley HP EFI for the coyote. You would loose the drive by wire and VVT but it would be easier to tune.
 
#35 ·
Hello.

Been gone for some time.

I don't remember who was interested in parts but please reply here or PM me and I'll try to get back to you.

Right now I am putting up the Edelbrock Intake combo in the Classifieds section.
 
#36 ·
I'm interested in finding out how far along this build is. It's been 10 months! Updates!
 
#37 ·
Please give us a Total Parts breakdown, Per part cost.

This swap seems to be getting cheaper and cheaper with the mass availability of F150 motors. They don't have the ideal cam selection but have a better CR for boost.

In the next few years I bet this is going to be the staple mod for most any build.

Good luck!
 
#38 ·
I'm doing the swap too. I can provide some idea based on what I spent:

Engine: $5,194.00 for a brand new 2016 naked (no intake, injectors, rails, plugs, coils) longblock.
(I went CJ intake, so I didn't want that stuff knowing I'd be buying just to replace)
K member: ~$1300 for the maximum motorsports one with all the extra parts that come along with it.
**alternatively, you can get an aftermarket oil pan and reuse the stock K, with some modifications to the oil pan to fit the headers**
Alternator bracket and pulleys to fit Boss alt: $750 from power by hour
Battery relocation: $100
BBK Swap headers, midpipe and 3" magnaflow exhaust to connect: $1700
Return Fuel system: $2000 from Glenn's Performance
8 bolt Flywheel: $300 (reuse your old clutch if it fits the flywheel size to save a buck - I went dual disc though for another $700)
Ford Control Pack: $1500
Stiffler's trans mount: $150

Those are the necessary parts. You can get them used, new, whatever. You can also go above and beyond (I got billet oil pump gears, boss tensioners, CJ pulse ring, ported my intake and throttle body, and a bunch of other less necessary nonsense). This is what I'm working with though. I still need to buy the control pack and headers and get the engine into the car though. You can see all the stuff I've got in my "garage" in my profile.
 
#41 ·
Absolutely, I have seen several F150 85-110k mile long blocks for under $2,000. I know they are not ideal with the different intake, intake cams, and lower compression but if your getting new rods and pistons in it anyway the compression can be adjusted. I think even now you could do the swap for under $8k. (depending what mods you already have done)

In the next 2-3 years I bet that will drop to around $6k and at that point its a no brainer for the potential this set-up offers.
 
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