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post #1 of 11 Old April 2nd, 2006, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Cam recommendation

I have the 1975 Mustang 2(302) and I want to know what would be the best cam. I plan on stroking it(347) and making it a nitrous monster..

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post #2 of 11 Old April 2nd, 2006, 06:33 AM
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Need more info. What heads do you plan on running? Intake? Compression? Auto or manual?

My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm....


***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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post #3 of 11 Old April 2nd, 2006, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
My Stallion is Bigger!
 
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Its an auto. C4 I believe... I really don't know about the compression probably higher the better I wanna keep it all motor and eventually stick a bottle on it.

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post #4 of 11 Old April 2nd, 2006, 04:51 PM
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The cam will be the last piece you buy. Build the engine and then call Total Engine Airflow and have Brian Tooley set you up with a custom cam.

My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm....


***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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post #5 of 11 Old April 2nd, 2006, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Aight

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post #6 of 11 Old April 12th, 2006, 07:59 PM
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why not find a later year block that uses a roller cam..... i ' m no fan of a 347 as still to date longivity is an issue.....a 331 would be a great lil street engine with a nice 200 shot
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post #7 of 11 Old April 12th, 2006, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfast
why not find a later year block that uses a roller cam..... i ' m no fan of a 347 as still to date longivity is an issue.....a 331 would be a great lil street engine with a nice 200 shot
I have a 347 with more miles than I can count and reliability is not an issue. Anyone who believes that rod to stroke ratio bullshit needs to go back to internal combustion engines 101. If that was an issue half of the factory engines on the road today are junk too.

My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm....


***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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post #8 of 11 Old April 12th, 2006, 08:21 PM
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I believe the piston with the wrist pin is the issue ..not rod length
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post #9 of 11 Old April 13th, 2006, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfast
I believe the piston with the wrist pin is the issue ..not rod length
That is also a myth. People used to say they burn oil because the rod intersects the oil ring land. People still say it but the fact of the matter is the people that are saying it have never owned or built a 347 or any other big inch stroker motor. Alot of the big block chevy strokers have wrist pins intersecting the ring land. My 425 does as well. I can assure you this is not an issue. Engines have been built like this since the begining of time. Hell, there are engine that come from the factory with the pin intersecting the oil ring land.

My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm....


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post #10 of 11 Old April 15th, 2006, 09:05 PM
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not a myth.... I have seen the area right above the pin develop cranks leading into the oil rings and thus the engine would smoke...it was more of a qaulity problem....later when probe did some design changes it got alot better..with the chevy BB there was more area between the oil ring groove and the wrist pin..
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post #11 of 11 Old April 15th, 2006, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfast
not a myth.... I have seen the area right above the pin develop cranks leading into the oil rings and thus the engine would smoke...it was more of a qaulity problem....later when probe did some design changes it got alot better..with the chevy BB there was more area between the oil ring groove and the wrist pin..
No matter what engine, its the same story. The pin goes through the oil ring land. Big deal. Good parts and good machine work will give you no problems.

My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm....


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