'65 Coupe 351w - Page 17 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #321 of 885 Old September 21st, 2012, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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I swear I am never pulling this motor again. Pulling it is easy (if you don't make an ER trip) but putting it in is a pain. Gotta pull the tranny, to pull the tranny you have to pull the shifter, to pull the shifter and the tranny you have to break the exhaust loose.......

Finally got it back in. I scuffed up the shock towers in a few spots, I think I will try using an airbrush gun to touch up the small stuff.







For those interested, I used masking tape and string to cover up the black (low spots) on the valve covers, and then painted the high spots. Very tedious, and I recommend anyone who tries in the future to use a synthetic rope for filling in the grooves. The cotton string left too much fuzz that took a few hours to clean up.



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post #322 of 885 Old September 24th, 2012, 09:43 AM
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See your running an Hei. They work great but are a pain in the air cleaner dept.

1968 Mustang coupe

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post #323 of 885 Old September 24th, 2012, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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See your running an Hei. They work great but are a pain in the air cleaner dept.
I bought a ready to run off Craigslist, but it was too low profile and wouldn't clear the intake. I'm eventually going to replace it.
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post #324 of 885 Old September 25th, 2012, 01:34 PM
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Well after 3 days of off and on reading (had to work ) I must say AJ, you are one dedicated individual. That 351 in the engine bay looks bad ass, but for just a cruiser why not go w/the 302? Or the 289? I've got a 66 coupe basket case that I have had for a few months now and would like to wait till my boy's a little bit older (he just turned 5) to start a father/son project. After seeing all the work you've put into this one (and seeing as how it was in better shape when you got it than the one I currently own) I think I may need to get to work on it. I have greatly enjoyed your journey, and hope it works out the way you want. I will say your fearlessness in attacking each problem as it arises has given me hope that my own meager skills will provide similar results.

Rock on brother.
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post #325 of 885 Old October 24th, 2012, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well after 3 days of off and on reading (had to work ) I must say AJ, you are one dedicated individual. That 351 in the engine bay looks bad ass, but for just a cruiser why not go w/the 302? Or the 289?
I've had the 351w since high school, been trying to stuff it into something for almost 15 years. When I was looking for a classic car, it had to be a ford so that I could use the 351w. Most guys buy a motor for their car, I bought a car for my motor.
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post #326 of 885 Old October 25th, 2012, 01:49 AM
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I've had the 351w since high school, been trying to stuff it into something for almost 15 years. When I was looking for a classic car, it had to be a ford so that I could use the 351w. Most guys buy a motor for their car, I bought a car for my motor.
LOL I know the feeling, did something similar years ago with a supercoupe motor. Also it's been a month since any progress was posted, what's up on the car? Doing any work on it, or just stacking paper to give the wallet a break?
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post #327 of 885 Old October 25th, 2012, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got some welding done. You can see my other thread on custom tail lights for last nights update.
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post #328 of 885 Old November 26th, 2012, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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FINALLY!!!

So after 11 months of trying to fit the fenders, I finally got all the welding equipment I needed, and a buddy who knows how to weld, and my car... all together.

Since it was so long ago, I'll recap, the problem was a large gap between the front of the door and the fender. The solution was to weld some metal onto the leading edge of the door to close the gap up.

I forgot to take some pictures of the door before I ground everything smooth and started fitting the passengers side fender, but we just welded some 1/8" steel rod from Lowes on the top 3/4 of the door, and then on the bottom we welded a straight piece of a coat hanger. After the welding was done, I used a grinder wheel to get everything close, and then some 80 grit on a DA to get it smooth.

Now I am in the process of fitting the fender to see where I might need to add a little more or take a little away.

Although my stock fenders had a big gap, they were in pretty good shape on the back end, but the front side was another story. I think the car had been hit up front, and none of the headlight buckets or doors wanted to line up right. Since this type stuff is not my forte, I opted to buy some new fenders and give them a go. I wound up with NPD "better quality" repop fenders. I can tell they are made of a thinner metal because the difference in weight between my repop and my NOS is noticeable. However, they appear to be very straight, and it took very little work to get them really close, so I am very happy considering the price compared to the dynacorn units.

When I put the passenger side on straight out of the box, the entire fender was sitting low by almost 1/4". Even tightening up the bottom rocker nut was not enough to pick it up:







The fender to cowl gap didn't look right either, although that was an illusion caused by the way the back side was rolled:







After studying the fender for about ten minutes, then a few minutes of pushing and pulling, I decided that what needed to happen was for the lip that mounts to fender apron to be bent "up" (towards the sky) which would roll the fender up after the lip was rotated down to sit flush. I used a piece of 1 x 3 and some clamp to make sure I got an even bend all the way down the lip (except the very front which has a slight angle on it):





Overall I bent the flange about 8 - 10 degrees (90 degrees being a right angle). After bolting the flange back down, all of the body lines matched up almost perfectly. However, I could no longer get the bottom edge to fit down below the rocker so that I could bolt the bottom in. The solution was to set the fender upside down on the ground and bend the bottom out slightly. I figured as long as I didn't get too far out, I could just use the rocker bolt to pull it back in tight.:











Next I have to finish shaping the edge of the door for a uniform gap, after that I will be able to use some shims to get everything lined up perfect.
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post #329 of 885 Old November 28th, 2012, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Got the door shimmed up and all the bolts in. It might not have gaps like a Lexus, but it looks great for a 45 year old car.







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post #330 of 885 Old November 28th, 2012, 02:05 PM
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looks good. How long do you think before you have the car ready for paint?

1968 Coupe- Sold
2007 Premium GT- Sold
2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

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post #331 of 885 Old November 28th, 2012, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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looks good. How long do you think before you have the car ready for paint?
To - Do List before paint:

A) Finish custom tail-lights
B) Fix Cheap fiberglass hood (Crack on underside, terrible pitted finish)
C) Epoxy Prime
D) Feather-Fill Prime
E) Block
F) 2k Prime
G) Block
H) Seal

If the weather holds up (not a fan of block sanding in the garage), I might be ready for paint around Valentines day.
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post #332 of 885 Old November 28th, 2012, 02:42 PM
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That is looking great! I hate doing body work, but you make it look easy.

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #333 of 885 Old November 28th, 2012, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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That is looking great! I hate doing body work, but you make it look easy.
Easy?? It took me 11 months to set the door to fender gaps. My posts here are just
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post #334 of 885 Old November 28th, 2012, 10:03 PM
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I know it wasn't easy. I noticed it was quite awhile between updates.

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
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post #335 of 885 Old November 29th, 2012, 04:21 PM
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I hate body work with a passion. I am terrible at it due to lack of patience. I had to do my own on all my cars growing up, I know just factor in the cost for a shop to do it as part of the project cost.

1968 Coupe- Sold
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MY CO BUILD

Last edited by TCStang; February 6th, 2013 at 07:09 PM.
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post #336 of 885 Old December 3rd, 2012, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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POS Hood Part One

I've began working on my POS K.A.R fiberglass hood, even though I'm not convinced I'm going to keep it. I figure even if I don't keep it, I'll want to sell it, so I might as well bring it along as far as I can.

The first think I need to fix is a crack in the bottom side caused by the hood opening at 35 mph. I guess I forgot to take a picture of it before I sanded it down, but as you can see, I have a hold in the drivers side support structure after sanding away the gel coat:





I just picked up the (overpriced) 3M repair kit from AutoZone:



I mixed up the resin and hardender in a small plastic garbage can (about 2 gallons big) and spread a thick layer on the hood, then laid the fiberglass mat in and smashed on it (wearing really good rubber gloves) until the resin had soaked through the mat. Then I used a disposable brush to really coat the mat with another coat of resin. I laid another layer of mat on, mashed it in, and then applied another coat of resin. After that I made sure to try and press all of the air bubbles out and get it sitting tight against the hood.

WET:



Dry:



After it dried I used a flapper disc on my grinder to cut away most of the excess, then I used some 60 grit on a dual action sander to get it close. I finished it out with some 36 grit on a long board by hand:



I used a little body filler to smooth it out and make sure you couldn't feel the repair:



With the crack repaired, I turned my attention to the unfinished portion of the hood (inside the scoop).

I poured what was left of a body filler can (about 1/3 gallon) into the center of the scoop, and mixed it up right there on the hood, and then spread it out with a putty knife:





I sanded it all back with the dual action and some 60 grit.



I'm not going to bother with a long board or a foam block on the bottom of the hood. I'm not concerned that it is straight, I just don't want the unfinished fiberglass showing, and I don't want anything that sticks out and draws attention away from the engine bay.

I still have to finish cleaning up the underside (I ran out of goop-be-gone trying to get all the adhesive from the shipping foam off) and then I will turn my attention to the pitted top side. My plan is to fill any big holes or low spots I see with body filler, and then give both sides a coat with feather fill. Hopefully that will be the extent of the work involved.
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post #337 of 885 Old December 4th, 2012, 12:34 AM
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wow that looks good as new after the repair. :thumbup:

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post #338 of 885 Old December 4th, 2012, 08:20 AM
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That looks alot better. I have been looking into getting a fiberglass hood but I hear the quality on most is pretty bad. Wish there was a company making steel cowl hoods for the 67-68 body.

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #339 of 885 Old December 11th, 2012, 01:00 PM
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Motor mounts

What motor mounts did you use? Stock ones or what?
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post #340 of 885 Old December 11th, 2012, 01:05 PM
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What motor mounts did you have to use? I am doing the same thing. I have the headman 88660 headers but it doesn't look like they will fit. So I thought that I might have the wrong motor mounts.
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