'65 Coupe 351w - Page 27 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #521 of 885 Old September 5th, 2013, 03:09 PM
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at least it's only the top of the dizzy.

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post #522 of 885 Old September 5th, 2013, 07:38 PM
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Thankfully its only the top half. So if I understand it right, base is at 16* and then it advances up (past 18*), but then at 3000 RPMs it falls to 18*?

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build
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post #523 of 885 Old September 5th, 2013, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Base is at 20*, it should be advancing 16* more to 36*. But instead it is backing up to 18* total.

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post #524 of 885 Old September 7th, 2013, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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I think the copper springs where giving me advance way below 1500 RPM like they were listed for. I changed the springs back to the silver, and things look much better, but still not perfect. I am either still getting advance under 1000 RPM, or I am not getting my full 16* before I hit my stops. I'll have to investigate more later. Took it out to the movies tonight and it drove really well for cruising.

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post #525 of 885 Old September 9th, 2013, 08:53 AM
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Is your dizzy mechanical advance only or dual advance? Mine is dual but I haven't messed with the springs at all yet.

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post #526 of 885 Old September 9th, 2013, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Mine is dual, but the vacuum is always disconnected for setting the timing and testing. You don't hook up the vacuum until you are completely satisfied. Then you hook it up and take one more drive to make sure you have no pinging.

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post #527 of 885 Old September 11th, 2013, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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A few small things

It only took about 30 seconds after I put in my three point seat belts in to know that something had to change. The pivot point was only about 4 inches behind my head, and up 12 inches. This caused the seat belt to come down across my ear or neck, depending on how much I reclined my seat. I either needed to move the pivot point back or down. Moving it back would require me to remove the headliner, buy new mounting plates, drill new holes, fish the wires again etc. plus it would leave me with a big hole in my headliner where the current mounting point is. I also considered moving it all the way down to the rear quarter (near the window crank). My final options was a sash that would simply attach to the current mounting point and lower the pivot down. To me this was the clear solution. However I could not find an add-on sash for sale anywhere, since it kind of needed to be sewn into the belt. So I decided to make a bracket to work as a sash:

I picked up some 3/8 flat bar from Lowes, and cut two 10 inch sections from it. A 10 inch bar gives me an 8 inch drop, which seemed to be the most common size I saw for sell on the interwebz. I clamped it to a metal table, placed a wrench on it, and then used a big cheater bar to give it a 45 degree bend about 4 inches from one end. This was neccessary to allow it to follow the shape of the roof/window:





After drilling my holes, I cleaned it up and sanded it down, then coated it with some rustoleum anti-rust primer, and then 4 coats of Plasti-dip. The plasti-dip gives it an excellent texture very similar to the headliner, and it provides a soft feel:







The seat belts fit perfectly now, right across the shoulder like a modern car. And I am still using the factory mounting points.

I also swapped out the lights in my gauges for some blue LED. I'm not sure how much I like them yet, but I've always thought blue gauges looked cool when I've seen them in someone else's car. I'll live with them for a few months and make a final decision.




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post #528 of 885 Old September 11th, 2013, 10:33 PM
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I like the blue gauges! Not sure I'd like the sash just hanging down like that but it does look like quality work.

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2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

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post #529 of 885 Old September 11th, 2013, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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When you let it swing back out of the way, it hugs the rear quarter window. I pulled it up there for the picture, because that is where it sits when I'm strapped in.

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post #530 of 885 Old September 11th, 2013, 10:58 PM
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That's not to bad then.

1968 Coupe- Sold
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2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

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post #531 of 885 Old September 11th, 2013, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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I just ordered two new tires for the front. One of mine is out of round, causing some pretty bad vibrations over 60 MPH. I have been running 235/45R17, but I ordered 205/40/R17 this time. The new tires will be almost 2" shorter (1" on each side) and almost 1.25" narrower. The shorter and narrower tire should help add a little clearance to the wheel well (which I have already rolled the lip on) and I might even be able to take it a little lower by cutting some spring. The narrower tire should help with my low speed steering effort as well.

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post #532 of 885 Old September 11th, 2013, 11:16 PM
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I'm currently running the same as you. I was planning to drop a size myself. Even after rolling the fenders I rub on bad potholes.

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post #533 of 885 Old September 12th, 2013, 07:14 PM
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I may look into a narrower tire also when I replace them. I don't rub, but I haven't lowered the front yet.

I like the seat belt mod. Its on my list.....gosh its a long list though

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build
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post #534 of 885 Old September 20th, 2013, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, the new tires made a HUGE difference. It no longer feels like I'm trying drive a 1950's tractor around the parking lot. I'm definitely putting on hold my plans for power steering.

I also realized that the idiots at Firestone had my alignment all jacked up. The specs were good, but the rack was way off center. From center I had 3 turns to the left before I hit my steering stop, and only 1.5 turns to the right, coming no where near close to the steering stop. I took it back to Firestone, and they were to stupid to figure out how to run one tie-rod in and the other one out. So I brought it home and centered the rack myself and aimed the tires the best I could by eyeballing it. I'll have to take it to a different location this week and get them to dial it in perfect.

I also got started on my custom center console. The idea is to take all the way up to the dash line below the radio panel. My main goal is to get my AC vents closer to me. Because all though the vents put out 44* air, it still feels pretty warm when it is 95* and the sun is baking through the window. The biggest difference I notice between my mustang and my daily, is how close the vents are to my face compared to the under-dash (about 18" closer). Moving the vents up right behind the shifter will cut that distance in half. The console will cover the ash-tray, ac controls (relocated into the new console) and the AC vents (relocated into new console).

I'm mocking the console up out of 5mm hardwood plywood, and then I'll use the patterns to cut some heavier wood for final construction. The whole thing will be wrapped in leather, I may two-tone the middle in grey or I may do the whole thing in black. And no the center section is not fully mocked up yet, just the sides and the AC panel








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post #535 of 885 Old September 21st, 2013, 12:28 PM
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Looks like a fun project! I made a center console for mine and wrapped it in vinyl. Unfortunately the adhesive didn't hold for poo. I pull it out here last weekend as I am getting ready for a T5 swap.

The hardest part I found was getting it to fit nicely to the dash, and to not move around on you.

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
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post #536 of 885 Old September 21st, 2013, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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I plan to have a heavy layer of foam on mine so that it will squeeze up against the dash, hopefully it will look good. I plan to use staples for all of the foam and vinyl.

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post #537 of 885 Old September 21st, 2013, 01:49 PM
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On a side note, What shifter handle is that? I need to get one for my swap but I am unsure what handle works well in our cars.

Staples are def a huge plus. You shouldn't have any issues with them. Is this going to be mounted to the floor at all or just sitting on it?

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build
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post #538 of 885 Old September 21st, 2013, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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The shifter knob is what came with the hurst competition plus shifter.

I am using my existing hump-hugger console as the heart of my custom build, so whatever I build will just velcro to the carpet like the hump hugger did.

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post #539 of 885 Old September 21st, 2013, 05:05 PM
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Console looks like it's coming along nicely!

1968 Coupe- Sold
2007 Premium GT- Sold
2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

MY CO BUILD
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post #540 of 885 Old September 25th, 2013, 08:14 AM
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Any more progress on the console?

1968 Coupe- Sold
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2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

MY CO BUILD
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