'65 Coupe 351w - Page 41 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #801 of 885 Old May 22nd, 2016, 11:43 AM
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Good luck with the new motor. I think I would have thrown up my hands long ago!
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post #802 of 885 Old May 22nd, 2016, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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The engine bay paint never matched the body, it was always too dark. This is most likely because I did it myself and I laid it down over black epoxy instead of grey primer. While I have the motor our I'm going to respray. I'm also going to clean up the wiring because it has mothballed over the last 4 years since the last time I tried to clean it up. This time I'm going to mount the big relay panel I built into the fender well, and reroute all the wires into there as well. The only thing I hope to leave in the engine Bay is the AC and Heater lines.











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post #803 of 885 Old May 25th, 2016, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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4 Coats of base and 3 coats of clear. It has a lot of texture on purpose. I even considered using bed-liner to give a really high texture:




















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post #804 of 885 Old May 26th, 2016, 12:24 AM
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Looks good.
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post #805 of 885 Old May 30th, 2016, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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I really underestimated the effort to hide all the engine bay wiring. I've been working on it for three days now. Not much that is really picture worthy, it is just really tedious heat-shrinking every connection and re-routing wires a dozen times to find the best path. I hope to wrap that up this week, and hopefully my motor will be here soon.

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post #806 of 885 Old June 2nd, 2016, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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post #807 of 885 Old June 2nd, 2016, 09:49 PM
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Very nice. 164 tooth flexplate?

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #808 of 885 Old June 2nd, 2016, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Very nice. 164 tooth flexplate?
Yea, I won't be using it on this motor. I'll transfer over the flywheel from the 351w.

I will us the flex plate though so that I can run the 351w on a stand until I figure out what the hell is wrong with it (then I'll sell it to recoup some funds).

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post #809 of 885 Old June 4th, 2016, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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post #810 of 885 Old June 7th, 2016, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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I broke two intake bolts off in my AFR heads on the 351w. It's not that hard to torque them on the stand, but in the car leaning over it is not as hard as you would think. So this time I'm going with studs:



The entire motor and every single attachment is going to be gloss black:



I just hope it looks at good in real life as it does in my visions

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post #811 of 885 Old June 10th, 2016, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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I spent 3 hours tonight modifying my Alternator bracket to accommodate the shorter deck height of the 351W. I could have just bought a Spectre one at auto zone, but then it wouldn't have matched the rest of my set from CVF.

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post #812 of 885 Old June 13th, 2016, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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This swap has been agonizingly slow.

After today I have almost 8 hours in getting all the brackets and pulleys to fit right without stacks of washers everywhere. It is crazy tedious cutting nice aluminum shims, and making 4 trips to ACE to get the perfect length bolts. I think I finally have the motor together and ready to drop in. I have a cheap eBay distributor while I work out the details of my distributor less ignition, and the headers are supposed to be here tomorrow.

I spent a few hours tonight trying to finish up the wiring as well. The only two things I really have left are a longer wire for the starter and I need a new fuse holder for my amp supply. The one I have is cracked and I had it held together with electrical tape.

I also took the time to make a longer clutch rod. My new motor is a roller and doesn't have a pivot mount on the block and am going to be using the bracket that bolts to the bell housing. However I've seen several people claim they don't get quite as much clutch travel with those, and mine was already barely engaging because of all the dynamat and mass-backed cut pile carpet. I just used some all thread and ground a tip on it:




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post #813 of 885 Old June 17th, 2016, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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post #814 of 885 Old June 17th, 2016, 01:56 AM
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Woah it's been a while since i've been on and i've definitely missed alot. But am reading and catching up. This always just gets better and better it's going to be sweet. That solid black motor might be a little hard to keep cleaner though but it will look pretty awesome.



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post #815 of 885 Old June 17th, 2016, 06:03 AM
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Nice project, great read & thanks for the views.

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post #816 of 885 Old June 18th, 2016, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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So three of us spent 11 hours on the car today... and it still is not started.

I will say this motor is still on my good side. It hasn't sent me to the ER yet, which my old one dd three times, little thing after little things hanging me up.

We had a little trouble getting the transmission stabbed into he motor because the throwout bearing was stuck on the shaft. I'm not too sure what happened maybe other than some flash rust while it sat open for a month. Anyway we had to pull the motor back out and tap with a rubber mallet, then the motor mated up.

One of my major concerns was that my new block doesn't have the z-bar pivot and I have to use one of the brackets that mounts to the bell housing. I've heard these don't always fit great, and mine sure doesn't. Although the clutch is working, the bracket needs to move the bar forwards about 1/2" to get it square.

But then it might not be the block, perhaps the whole motor is sitting further back because my radiator hoses were too short as well. Since I have the adjustable mounts I may see if I can loosen up the transmission and slide it forward a little, but I can't move much because of the shifter.

Overall I'm a little disappointed that I spent money on the Ron Morris adjustable mounts. They are really nice, but since I've got a stock motor in the stock location, I don't really see what benefit they offered. And they were harder to install on top of it.

After making a run to the parts store to buy longer radiator hoses it was far too late to fire up the motor with no mufflers. Tomorrow I have to fill the car with water and ensure there are no more leaks, then finish up a little wiring before I can test fire. After that I will need to put all the suspension back together so that I can take it to the muffler shop. My old headers were long tube and the new ones are shorty's, so I have about an 18" gap between my collectors and the old flanges.

For now I am just putting a cheap HEI ignition on, but I plan to install a distributor-less ignition system as part of this swap. I will cover that in a separate section after the motor swap is over. For now the wiring running to the distributor is temporary so I'm not concerned with cleaning it up.


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post #817 of 885 Old June 19th, 2016, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Well today sucked. I still have a water leak. I think it coming from the thermostat housing, I'm not 100% positive. And I have massive wiring issues that I don't even know here to start on. I'm tired, I'm sore, and I'm whipped. Perhaps I will take a look at it tomorrow, or perhaps I'll let it sit a few weeks.

---------- Post added at 10:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 PM ----------

If you have somehow managed to make it through this thread without coming to the conclusion that I am the most stubborn, type-A personality on the planet... let me settle the debate.

I'm laying in bed tonight contemplating how a piece of machinery managed to whoop me like a red headed step-child behind the woodshed. I start running scenarios through my brain of what could be the problem and suddenly I think I've identified a highly likely suspect. Can I just put my mind to rest and check it out in the morning.... nope, I have to get up and head to the garage in the middle of the night to check out my theory.

When I tucked all the wires into the fender wells to clean up the engine bay I also turned the solenoid around and put it in the fender well. This meant I needed longer cable for the alternator. I headed to auto zone to grab an amp hookup kit because those are pretty much the only way to buy 2-gauge wire with hoop connectors (I don't have a crimper big enough to make a 2-gauge cable), when I notice the battery cable section and think to myself... that's way cheaper than an amp kit.

So I picked up a side-post negative cable, which had a hoop on both ends and it fit perfectly. It turns out that the connector was so large, that it was not only touching the post of the alternator, but the body as well. Every time I hit the start switch it was sending 2-gauge wire worth of 12V+ into the alternator body which is grounded to the bell housing. Not only that, but i was causing the solenoid to stick, so once I hit the start button I was in a permanently grounding the 12V+ of the battery to the block until I removed the battery cable and let the solenoid release.

I used some electrical tape to wrap up al but the tip of the wire, and it solved the issue with trying to start the car causing a permanent ground loop.

Now I just have to spend two days putting back together all the wiring I ripped apart trying to find the issue.

---------- Post added at 11:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:57 PM ----------




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post #818 of 885 Old June 29th, 2016, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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I've decided to make quick-disconnects for the gauge cluster and the console wiring because I find myself removing both so often. I used some 24-pin computer power supply extenders that I cut in half for the connector. I also bought a label maker that prints on shrink-wrap so I can take care of labeling the wires and heat-shrinking them at the same time.




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post #819 of 885 Old June 30th, 2016, 10:51 AM
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Looks great, what label maker/heat shrink are you using? I may need to look into that myself.

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #820 of 885 Old July 8th, 2016, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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I've had a rough few weeks, and was really looking for something as a pick-me-up, so I jumped a wire from the battery to the distributor and fired the motor up for a couple of minutes. Not exactly a whole bunch you can tell by hearing a car with open exhaust running, but it cranks. I think the squeal is the alternator belt being a little loose. At least I hope that is all it is. I was initially afraid it was an oiling issue, but I pulled a valve cover and had plenty of oil.


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