'65 Coupe 351w - Page 43 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #841 of 885 Old August 20th, 2016, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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I got a break in the weather to take the car to the muffler shop to mate the new shorty headers up to the pipes and install the cutouts. This is the first time I've had the car out of the neighborhood since the swap, and it was a pretty decent first voyage.

* I posted last night about the issues with the temperature fan switch. I bypassed the switch and jumped the wires together so the fan came on with the key until I can get a better switch. Well I forgot to tape up the connection real well and it shorted against the carb and blew the fuse. It got pretty warm so I had to pull over and swap the fuse.

* I have a loose wire somewhere in the dash. The gauges occasionally lose power and sometimes the radio complains about "miswiring". I'm not looking forward to tracking down that one loose wire in the whole friggin harness.

* I don't know if it is just the extra thump of the new motor, or if they got the angle of the pipes off just a tiny bit when they cut in the cutouts, but the drivers side exhaust tip sometimes gets up against the rear valence now and makes a terrible buzzing noise (like over-sized subwoofers in cheap ass pontiac).

Video for proof (sounds better with headphones).


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post #842 of 885 Old August 20th, 2016, 11:17 PM
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That sounds really nice. Are you gonna do a video with the cut outs open?

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #843 of 885 Old August 21st, 2016, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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That sounds really nice. Are you gonna do a video with the cut outs open?

Once I install them I will. Right now It has the flanges closed off. I have to mount the electric motors and route the wiring.

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post #844 of 885 Old August 26th, 2016, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Knocked out almost all of my punch-list today:

- Added a radiator probe to trigger the fan since the one located on the intake was heating up too slow.
- Temporary installed the drivers side seat pan so that I'm not sitting on the floor.
- Moved the solenoid to the trunk. Mounted it to the back side of the hinge.
- Ran the 1/0 wires for moving the battery to the trunk.
- The ground wire goes from the rear seat belt bolt (under the car) to the front frame rail on the wheel side, and on the engine side of the same bolt a to the starter housing. From the seat belt bolt (inside car) it feeds the battery disconnect switch.
- The power wire was too heavy to attach directly to the starter. So it runs from the solenoid in the trunk to a BUS Bar in the wheel well. From there a 2AWG wire feeds the starter.
- Installed the battery back in the trunk.
- Installed the cut-outs and wired them up, but there is a switch or fuse issue, as the switch is not feeding them
- Not happy with the cut-outs. They are cheap (I knew this) and they don't seal well (I was hoping they would be okay). I'll have to save up for the expensive ones.

Now I have a problem with the shifter, the linkage has gotten out of whack and it is stuck in second gear, I had to limp home. Maybe I can tackle that over the holiday weekend.












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post #845 of 885 Old August 27th, 2016, 12:10 AM
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Congrats on getting the battery situation figured out. Whats so bad with those cutouts? What are those long bolts coming through the floor for?

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #846 of 885 Old August 27th, 2016, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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-- The cutouts don't seal tight, so even when closed you get a rattle and exhaust-leak type sound.
-- The bolts are holding the seat pans in until I rip the carpet out and weld them in. (hence the temporary installation comment).

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post #847 of 885 Old September 4th, 2016, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Finally solved the issue with the loose wire that was causing my gauges to reboot every time I hit a bump. I don't know what is different about the AAW harness from the stock one with regards to the washer motor, but that was the problem, it also solved my wiper not working issue. The way the wiper system came out of the box the wiper switch was grounded to the frame of the motor. I guess the problem with that is that the motor is mounted to the frame with rubber bushing, so it was only grounding when I hit a bump and the motor rocked just a few millimeters. I moved the ground from the motor to the dash and the wipers started working and no more reboots when I hit a reflector in the road.

The shifter getting stuck in gear was due to the nut on the 3-4 shift lever backing out. I had poly lock nuts on there but they had still backed off letting the shifter linkage get sloppy. I tightened them back up with some loc-tite, so hopefully that issue doesn't come back.

I was also having issues with continuing to get. The motor never over-heated, but that is because I always shut it down by 240, with the temperature still climbing. It's actually really annoying that I had almost $225 in shroud (low profile aluminum) and a SPAL fan, and was still hurting.

I went with a 1992 Taurus fan + shroud assembly which you can pickup for under $70 on amazon all day long. The problem was i needed about 1/2" more clearance between the fan and the water pump pulley. I decided to trim the radiator support off the lip that extends into the engine bay. I don't know how structural that was, but my support was already hacked up by the PO so I'll just have to wait and see.














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post #848 of 885 Old September 4th, 2016, 06:06 PM
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Glad to see you git the wiring figured out. Thats crazy how the wiper was grounded.

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #849 of 885 Old September 16th, 2016, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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It's always something with these cars. I'm trying to get my break-in miles on the motor so that I can do some cruising in it. I drove it to work yesterday morning because things had been going really well the last few times I took it out on the weekend. And of course if you are going to have a problem its going to be in morning rush hour traffic on I-10 in Katy.

This is what the frame side clutch equalizer bar mount is supposed to look like:



And this is what mine looks like:




The pivot sheared off, which caused my clutch pedal to snap to the floor and not come back up.

I managed to coast off the freeway and to the service road, then pushed it into a parking lot.

Last night I went back about 11:00 PM and brought the car home by cranking it in gear and rev-matching to shift. I had to roll through a few stop signs but I made it back to the garage with minimal drama.

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post #850 of 885 Old September 16th, 2016, 07:12 PM
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That sucks dude. At least you got her home with minimal issues.

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post #851 of 885 Old September 16th, 2016, 07:54 PM
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Geez, glad to see you got it back home without too many issues. Is that piece the only part that broke? Would be a nice time to upgrade to a hydraulic clutch. Then you have to worry about leaks I guess.

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #852 of 885 Old September 16th, 2016, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Geez, glad to see you got it back home without too many issues. Is that piece the only part that broke? Would be a nice time to upgrade to a hydraulic clutch. Then you have to worry about leaks I guess.

Leaks, and bleeding, and pulling the bellhousing to install the throw out bearing. A new bracket is $17 and about 30 minutes of labor. I'm headed to the garage nOw and plan to have it fixed before dark.

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post #853 of 885 Old April 23rd, 2017, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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post #854 of 885 Old May 1st, 2017, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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Last year when I did the motor swap, I ran out of patience, time, and money to do everything I wanted. One of the real shortcuts I took was a $50 eBay distributor. The car runs pretty good, but it sounds like it has a slight miss, maybe some pinging occasionally, and my milage sucks. I'm sure some of it is carb related, but given my ignition is the weak link, I've decide to go ahead and take care of that so that I will know for sure that when I'm working on the carb, I'm fixing the last issue.

The first pic above is a 36-1 wheel and a VR sensor. The 36-1 wheel has a tooth every 10 degrees, and 1 missing (hence 36-1) I'm installing a Ford EDIS system which is found on may explorers and crown vic from the 90s. The VR sensor detects the teeth on the wheel flying by, and sends that signal to the EDIS box. The EDIS box only handles firing the coils and detecting the crank position, so I've picked up a MegaJolt/E, which you can input the timing curve into with your laptop. It also has vacuum hookup so that you can do vacuum advance.

The system uses two coil packs, each pack has 2-coils that each fire 2 cylinders. The coils are going to get mounted against the firewall under the export brace. I'll put the MegaJolt and EDIS box in the passenger footwell.

I mocked everything up on my 351w which is still sitting in the garage (man that makes things really easy).

I had to drill out the slots to make them big enough to bolt to the balancer:





The missing tooth goes 5 teeth in front of the sensor at TDC. (In this picture I'm 5 teeth behind, I, had to fix that late in the game).



I picked up a sheet of 1/8" sheet metal at The Home Depot to make a mount for the VR sensor:



I slotted it using a drill and grinder.



I used a 3lb hammer to shape it around the balancer:



Mounted it to an L-Bracket:



Mocked it up:



To get it fit on the crank pulley I had to cut the center out:









Next up will be getting the coils mounted, then (oh not not again) wiring.[COLOR="Silver"]


Last edited by ajzride; May 7th, 2017 at 08:48 PM.
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post #855 of 885 Old May 7th, 2017, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Almost ready, I just need plug wires.

Fabricated a mount for the coils using the same sheet metal I used for the VR sensor bracket:













Completely hidden by the air cleaner:




The Megajolt and EDIS are mounted in the glove box area. I have a bunch of male/female disconnects to assist with trouble shooting, once I get things up and running I will solder the wires together and lose the quick disconnects.

[COLOR="Silver"]

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post #856 of 885 Old May 8th, 2017, 12:04 AM
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Ewww... that Edelbrock carb. At least show the poor girl some respect and put a Holley or comparable QFT on it.

I like how the car is coming together otherwise.

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post #857 of 885 Old May 26th, 2017, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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I'll try to get some video tomorrow:


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post #858 of 885 Old May 26th, 2017, 11:25 AM
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I actually really like edelbrock carbs. Anyways its looking really good. Interesting spark setup you have going on. Wouldnt just a better distributor help out better?
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post #859 of 885 Old May 26th, 2017, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajzride View Post
Finally solved the issue with the loose wire that was causing my gauges to reboot every time I hit a bump. I don't know what is different about the AAW harness from the stock one with regards to the washer motor, but that was the problem, it also solved my wiper not working issue. The way the wiper system came out of the box the wiper switch was grounded to the frame of the motor. I guess the problem with that is that the motor is mounted to the frame with rubber bushing, so it was only grounding when I hit a bump and the motor rocked just a few millimeters. I moved the ground from the motor to the dash and the wipers started working and no more reboots when I hit a reflector in the road.

The shifter getting stuck in gear was due to the nut on the 3-4 shift lever backing out. I had poly lock nuts on there but they had still backed off letting the shifter linkage get sloppy. I tightened them back up with some loc-tite, so hopefully that issue doesn't come back.

I was also having issues with continuing to get. The motor never over-heated, but that is because I always shut it down by 240, with the temperature still climbing. It's actually really annoying that I had almost $225 in shroud (low profile aluminum) and a SPAL fan, and was still hurting.



I went with a 1992 Taurus fan + shroud assembly which you can pickup for under $70 on amazon all day long. The problem was i needed about 1/2" more clearance between the fan and the water pump pulley. I decided to trim the radiator support off the lip that extends into the engine bay. I don't know how structural that was, but my support was already hacked up by the PO so I'll just have to wait and see.















hey AJ wow you are doing some really cool stuff with this car. I was just wondering on this picture it looks like the idler pulley is way out of alignment with your ac pulley is that an illusion or what. the reason I ask is I was finishing the supercharger install on my 89 and my new smog pump delete pulley was out of alignment a bit and it shredded my belt in less than 20 miles. not enough that I couldn/t get home but annoying anyway.

I will be really interested to see how that megajolt system works. it is basically the same system my Hesco 4.0 conversion on my yj has. again really cool stuff. the car is looking awesome.


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post #860 of 885 Old May 26th, 2017, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, the pulley's were way out of alignment. I knew I was going to be messing with the alignment anyway when I started the ignition install, so I just put it off. It's all lined up now, I made new spacers for everything to accommodate the extra thickness of the 36-1 wheel.

And yes I could have just bought an expensive distributor, that still has limitations. Your initial advance cannot be more than about 14-16 or you will never get the car to turn over and crank when hot, and the mechanics springs have an inherent lag in them when spinning up. All of those items can be overcome with the megavolt. I now have 6 degrees of advance when cranking, and 42 degrees of advance at idle (based on the vacuum load). Plus the whole setup looks cleaner. Plus with the EDIS I can run way bigger spark plug gaps. All I have left to do now is cut up my old distributor so that it basically just becomes a short shaft to turn the oil pump.


Here is a short video of the tuning software running. You can see it idles around 45kPA of vacuum and 12 degrees advance at idle (this was before I plugged in the vacuum advance into the map).


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