How can i make my 289 1968 coupe go faster - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 19 Old March 24th, 2011, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Question How can i make my 289 1968 coupe go faster

I am new to working on cars. I am 17 and just bought a 1968 mustang coupe with a 289. I would like to invest some money into this car to make it into a fast street car but have no idea where to start (like i said, im new to this). As you can imagine at 17 i dont have a huge income but would be able to put a couple hundred into it at a time. What could i do to it and what order should i do it in? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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post #2 of 19 Old March 24th, 2011, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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btw its an automatic
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post #3 of 19 Old March 24th, 2011, 08:45 PM
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I would start with a better intake manifold and a 600 or 660 Holly carburetor with vacuum secondaries and convert to dual exhaust if it does not already have it. If you have the engine out in the future go with a mild cam, 11 to 1 pistons and 351 Windsor heads and headers. I built a 289 like this a few years back, amazing difference from stock and it sounded great.
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post #4 of 19 Old March 24th, 2011, 09:14 PM
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If you can locate a copy, Ford put out a parts book in the late 60's about the size of a magazine called "Ford Muscle Parts" it covered all the mods you could make to the 289/302/351 engines. I don't think many people on this site are old enough to have worked on older push rod engines.
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post #5 of 19 Old March 25th, 2011, 12:21 AM
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Welcome to MM Forums...

It is a good thing you found us, Push rod motors is what we are all about.

I need to know a little more about what you have first.

Who is going to do the work, you I am guessing.

What carb does it have on it now ?

What kinda exhaust does it have? does it have headers?

What rear end gear do you have?

Do you have disc brakes on the front ? If not I would start there.

It is a good idea to make it stop streight before making it go fast.
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post #6 of 19 Old March 25th, 2011, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangone View Post
welcome to mm forums...

It is a good thing you found us, push rod motors is what we are all about.

I need to know a little more about what you have first.

Who is going to do the work, you i am guessing.

What carb does it have on it now ?

What kinda exhaust does it have? Does it have headers?

What rear end gear do you have?

do you have disc brakes on the front ? If not i would start there.

it is a good idea to make it stop streight before making it go fast.
yep! Start there for sure!

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post #7 of 19 Old March 25th, 2011, 03:57 AM
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No Vacuum secondaries, go double pumper/mechanical secondaries.

You can make anything go faster it depends on what the car will be used for, what your goals are and how it sits now...Post some pics, and some details, and we'll be happy to help. There's a lot of great knowledge here just provide some details and you'll get your answer. Only reason I ask for details is because there is and endless combo of go fast parts and set ups.

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2004 Lightning-Traded
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post #8 of 19 Old March 25th, 2011, 09:37 AM
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What kind of shape is it in, how fast do you want to go in a 40+ yr old car with maybe the original steering, brakes, etc.?
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post #9 of 19 Old March 25th, 2011, 03:42 PM
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What kind of shape is it in, how fast do you want to go in a 40+ yr old car with maybe the original steering, brakes, etc.?
Easily Fixed.

Previous Rides
1997 Blown Cobra-Sold & Missed
2004 Lightning-Traded
2001 Turbo GT-Traded
1966 Mustang - sold
1997 BMW AC Schnitzer 540i S5 - Sold THANK GOD
2008 Lexus IS350 - Now the wife's car
2008 Ford Shelby GT500
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post #10 of 19 Old March 27th, 2011, 01:05 AM
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Easily Fixed.
On a 17 year olds budget probably not, at least not all at once or over a short period of time. He already brought up he can't throw hundreds at it whenever he needs to. Get your steering, brakes, and all those other little parts that will be worn out on 40+ year old car that could possibly endanger your life and then when all of that is sorted out get a decent aftermarket 4 barrel intake, 600cfm carb (give or take a few), and a decent exhaust and you'll be more than happy with how it feels I'm sure.

Its red, long, and comes with an 8 foot bed attached. Wanna come play with it?
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post #11 of 19 Old March 27th, 2011, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Countryboy_99 View Post
On a 17 year olds budget probably not, at least not all at once or over a short period of time. He already brought up he can't throw hundreds at it whenever he needs to. Get your steering, brakes, and all those other little parts that will be worn out on 40+ year old car that could possibly endanger your life and then when all of that is sorted out get a decent aftermarket 4 barrel intake, 600cfm carb (give or take a few), and a decent exhaust and you'll be more than happy with how it feels I'm sure.
Whoops lol.. didn't read the whole post, yea. Agree with you countryboy, get it safe and comfortable first.

Previous Rides
1997 Blown Cobra-Sold & Missed
2004 Lightning-Traded
2001 Turbo GT-Traded
1966 Mustang - sold
1997 BMW AC Schnitzer 540i S5 - Sold THANK GOD
2008 Lexus IS350 - Now the wife's car
2008 Ford Shelby GT500
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post #12 of 19 Old March 27th, 2011, 01:23 AM
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Yeah, I had a buddy I worked with who bought an old 70's chevy 1/2 ton off a guy. The guy had put a 350 in with an edelbrock top end kit and some internal work done too. I rode in it with him the day after he bought it. Something wasn't right with the transmission (th350 with a shift kit) and it dropped it down a gear while he was cruising along at 40ish, the rear tires broke loose and we started get sideways, well when he went to hit the brakes and stop the truck the truck seemed to ignore it and we damn near wound up rolled over in a ditch. Luckily enough he got it under control and didn't wreck. Turns out the guy who owned it before him who did all the engine work had clamped a pair of vice grips over the brake line to the rear brakes (why I don't know) and some kind of pin wasn't on transmission or shifter linkage and it fell out and let it slip from drive to second.

Moral of my seemingly unrelated story: Because my buddy hadn't checked the truck over to make sure it was sound and truly roadworthy he about wrecked.

Its red, long, and comes with an 8 foot bed attached. Wanna come play with it?
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post #13 of 19 Old March 27th, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Agree with brakes and steering as the first thing that needs to be addressed.
A new manifold, carb, cam and headers will be a big improvement. You can also pick up lots of HP by doing port matching on the original cast heads. How to do your self: Mustang Exhaust Port Matching
A 289 with these mods dyno'd around 320HP

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post #14 of 19 Old March 27th, 2011, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by chris66dad View Post
Agree with brakes and steering as the first thing that needs to be addressed.
A new manifold, carb, cam and headers will be a big improvement. You can also pick up lots of HP by doing port matching on the original cast heads. How to do your self: Mustang Exhaust Port Matching
A 289 with these mods dyno'd around 320HP
4v or 2v heads???325 seems a little steep for a 289 with just carb/cam/headers/intake...

Previous Rides
1997 Blown Cobra-Sold & Missed
2004 Lightning-Traded
2001 Turbo GT-Traded
1966 Mustang - sold
1997 BMW AC Schnitzer 540i S5 - Sold THANK GOD
2008 Lexus IS350 - Now the wife's car
2008 Ford Shelby GT500
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post #15 of 19 Old March 27th, 2011, 10:56 PM
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4v or 2v heads???325 seems a little steep for a 289 with just carb/cam/headers/intake...
+1

But, also WHAT cam, intake, and carb helped get the aforementioned 289 to 320HP? Was this engine rebuilt prior to these modifications? Those kinds of questions must be asked or such information is misleading and anyone with a 289 might mildly port there stock heads throw on any old intake, carb, headers, and cam and then expect it their motor to make 320HP.

Its red, long, and comes with an 8 foot bed attached. Wanna come play with it?
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post #16 of 19 Old March 28th, 2011, 01:35 AM
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I will search the other forum for the post from Glazer Nolans with the dyno print out and post the link here.
It showed the increase flow of the stock heads by porting could come close to aluminum aftermarket heads
I will link the thread and attach the dyno printout.
I did not believe it either but 2+2 produced the dyno slip

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289 4v, Roller Rockers, Electric fan
Performer & 650 Edelbrock
MSD ignition
Tri Y into 2.25 Shelby side exhaust
T5 conversion and 3.55 Trac Lok
Hydraulic clutch
CSRP Discs
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post #17 of 19 Old March 28th, 2011, 10:14 AM
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As far as performance mods are concerned, gears should be first. If it has stock gears, they're more than likely 2.75s. You will gain more seat of the pants feel from gears, than you will any other single mod, by itself.

From there, I'd go with a Petronix electronic ignition module, headers, intake, carb. In that order, as you can afford it.

This is assuming it's all stock.

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Originally Posted by brtnstrns View Post
I'll toss that dude's salad

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post #18 of 19 Old March 28th, 2011, 11:27 AM
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The info and dyno from a personal message from 2+2GT:

Re: head porting question
Chris, I've posted Mike's stuff many places, you might havce seen that on most any forum. He had a 67 smog engine. The photo of the untouched port is his. Mike calls it "321 hp", the the peak on the slip is clearly 323.

His engine was modified like this:
•Exhaust port-matching (I did one, he did the other seven)
•Edlebrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
•Stock distributor curved to BOSS 302 specs
•Screw-in rocker studs
•C9OZ-6250-C cam (218/218 - .470"/.470")

It's been since proved that Shelby's claimed 306 hp was indeed honest, and he didn't port the engines.

The 323 hp was on an engine dyno, not a chassis dyno.

Here's the dyno images:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...HorseSheet.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...k/321Horse.jpg

http://chris66dad.tripod.com/
Father Son Restoration
A code 66 coupe
289 4v, Roller Rockers, Electric fan
Performer & 650 Edelbrock
MSD ignition
Tri Y into 2.25 Shelby side exhaust
T5 conversion and 3.55 Trac Lok
Hydraulic clutch
CSRP Discs
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post #19 of 19 Old November 17th, 2015, 08:37 PM
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67 mustang 289

355-380 gears and a 2500 stall converter would be first. performer rpm cam, lifters, intake, and a 600 carb next. longtube hedders and 2 1/2 exhaust with 2 chamber flowmasters. this combo will put u atleast to a 13.50 qtr mile time. i have a 67 mustang 289 coupe that i've owned for 20 years. i installed a paxton supercharger with a 750 demon carb and afr heads...its a 12.50 car and hasnt even been tuned yet. any more questions just ask. be forwarned it takes TONS of money to make a 289 fly. i have over 10 grand in the motor alone. but its built from top to bottom. my set up has the potential to run 11.50 or better depending on how aggressive i wana be with the boost. im just not ready to rod check it yet if you know what i mean. if you wana text me let me know and ill guide you thru your build
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