Common problems with 302 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 12 Old November 20th, 2014, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Common problems with 302

So been talking to folks and trying to find stuff oon the web on what common problems are with 302's.

So far I have found that folks say to replace timing chain with a double roller.
Change the oil pump
check into the fuel pump

Is there any thing ya'll know of? So I can be ahead of the ball game for maint.
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post #2 of 12 Old November 28th, 2014, 01:47 AM
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Don't put through more than 500 crank HP or you will split it in half. That is... if you have decent traction.
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post #3 of 12 Old December 1st, 2014, 12:26 AM
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if you are going to change the oil pump I suggest you replace the oilpump drive shaft with a heavy duty aftermarket one. I was really amazed at how much torque it requires to spin that pump. I just built a 331 stroker. and it is impressive when you spin the drill and it starts to pump oil just how much pressure that shaft is under. other than that the only annoying issue with the 302 from my perspective is trying to keep the two piece rear main seal from leaking.
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post #4 of 12 Old December 1st, 2014, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Cool, I was going to change that at the same time as I was just watching power nation and seen what can happen. If I get an after market fuel pump will it hurt to get one that puts out more GPH so I have room for expansion?
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post #5 of 12 Old December 1st, 2014, 12:02 PM
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a high volume pump is fine. but make sure it is approximately 6 psi. or you will need a fuel pressure regulator. the edelbrock polished fuel pump is a good choice it is regulated to 6 psi and has a 200gph capacity. it is also polished and looks nice.


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post #6 of 12 Old December 1st, 2014, 12:28 PM
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I would hardly call an oil pump problem in an SBF a common problem. In fact, they're quite rare. An HD pump shaft is not a bad idea though, but not necessarily needed in a stock build, with stock clearances, and stock pressure.

I tell the truth. Deal with it.
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post #7 of 12 Old December 1st, 2014, 12:48 PM
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As mentioned, I hate the rear seal. Newer roller blocks have a one piece seal, you can machine an older block to use that seal I believe.

Also the timing cover can be a pain. The different metals don't play too well together between the block, the timing cover, the water pump and the bolts themselves. This leads to bolts breaking if you aren't careful.

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post #8 of 12 Old December 1st, 2014, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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cool, yea It's stock that I know of. But just getting parts together slowly for when I do decide to get do a rebuild and get a bit more HP. In the meantime I want to know what the weak spots are to address those before rebuild. Such as the oil shaft, rear seal info, timing chain, fuel pump. try and be ahead of the game by changing those out first. I look into the cover and see what condition it looks to be in.
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post #9 of 12 Old July 9th, 2015, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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So when it's hot outside my fuel line that is 3/8 bigger than the stock 5/16 one ran in the stock location gets hotter than all get out. It is causing a kind of vapor lock. Do any of you have this problem? I have put insulation round that part but still seems to be getting hotter than needed.
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post #10 of 12 Old July 10th, 2015, 01:20 PM
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Is the whole line getting hot or just a certain area?

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post #11 of 12 Old August 5th, 2015, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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The whole line gets hot. and the clear fuel filter I have I can see the fuel boiling. I find it odd that it is getting that hot as I have kept the line away from the motor. the stock line ran close to the water pump. It's only getting hot from the pump to the carb. which I have the edelbrok high flow pump on there and with a stock motor wouldn't think that it is working all to hard and that it's still mechanical pump. I have since cut a rubber hose to put over the metal line to help insulate it. It has helped but still wondering why it would be getting hot.
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post #12 of 12 Old September 19th, 2015, 08:55 AM
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In stock form the 302 is a very reliable motor. Most problems arise from modifications. Stock timing gears can lose their nylon coating on the teeth and cause issues getting stuck in the oil pump or causing the chain to jump...I would recommend going to a double roller chain setup on the older 302s.


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