1964 1/2 mustang road race build - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 13 Old March 31st, 2015, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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1964 1/2 mustang road race build

I need some input on the drive line engine/transmission options. The car will also be a driver that I would like to drive out of town on the weekend and to the track and back home!
I am looking at having the engine built, if anyone could point me in the right direction id appreciate it!
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post #2 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 12:12 AM
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I would go with a 347 crate engine and T5. Sure the mod motors are fancy and high revving for road racing, but the amount of work to install the custom front end that goes with them is beyond most garage mechanics. If you are great at welding and fab then consider a coyote crate engine with MTF subframe and 6-speed. Otherwise a nice 347 with a FAST EFI or Something similar will be a great engine. Throw in a coil-over setup on the front and back like something from Street-or-track and you will have a huge grin every time you hit the gas.

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post #3 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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coyote with a 6spd would be great. Who are some of better engine shops around now? Certain T5 transmission to look for?
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post #4 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 08:14 AM
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You need to decide if you want a modular motor like the coyote or a pushrod motor like the SBF's. That decision will completely change your build. If you plan on having a shop do it, then you should prolly stick with a SBF like AJ suggested.

If you want a great shop to build your car. Look into MTF:

Contact Mustangs to Fear

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #5 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Probably going to go sbf with t5, how much power can a t5 and 8" rear end handle?
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post #6 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 01:30 PM
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I believe the 8 inch is good up to about 400 hp.

1968 Coupe- Sold
2007 Premium GT- Sold
2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

MY CO BUILD
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post #7 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 02:25 PM
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The T5 is really only rated for about 300 HP, at the crank though not the wheels. The 8" is good for around 400 to the wheels, but some have had more power and it lasted, while others had less and it broke.

I have a T5 and no issues, but I'm not dumping the clutch at 5000 rpms at stoplights. I do plan to upgrade it to an Astro performance T5.

You can also swap in a 9" or with some work, a newer ford 8.8"

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
1968 Mustang fastback 351w/C4 Fastback Build

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post #8 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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hmmm decisions. . . I'm sort of leaning towards a ford racing boss 363 or even a dart 427 sbf build. What are people's thoughts on kaase engines? What driveline would I need to hand these on a road course?
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post #9 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 02:57 PM
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With either of those you are going to want a built rear end. The 9 inch will handle the power better than the 8 inch as mentioned above. Also as Edge mentioned look in to the Astro performance because a stock one is not designed for that much power.


http://www.astroperformance.com/prod...roducts_id/564

1968 Coupe- Sold
2007 Premium GT- Sold
2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

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post #10 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 03:06 PM
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If you want to go road racing stick with a 302 based block. A 427w will weigh more and the extra power will only go into making your wheels spin more. A 347 or 363 has plenty of power for a 64-1/2 that doesn't have fat slicks on it. Also fitment of a 351 based block in a 64-66 sucks. I know because I have one.

I would go with a 347 over a 363 simply because the ring design will be more reliable. A stock T5 is good to 300ish bhp, but a T5z or similarly built T5 can handle 500 bhp.

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post #11 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, what do you recommend for a rearend and who do you recommend for a 347
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post #12 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 09:23 PM
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Find a local machine shop and have them assemble a 347 for you.

You can get a Ford 9" axle to bolt in to your car, just have to gather the parts and get the housing. I recommend an Eaton TrueTrac, no clutch packs to wear out and you get full traction to both tires if needed.

1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5 Build Thread
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post #13 of 13 Old April 1st, 2015, 11:36 PM
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I would go one of two ways:

A) Have one built locally by a shop with a good reputation. This way you will know what you are getting and can watch it every step of the way.

B) Buy one from Summit. They are like the walmart of hotrod shops. They will take almost anything back and never give you crap about warranty replacements.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ml...74ct/overview/

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