My new ride 2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 4k ODO - Page 7 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #121 of 153 Old January 30th, 2012, 11:00 AM
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^ I agree. I just picked up a good set of MILS (had to go through emissions with the O/R X); got them install - the code is gone and no issues at all... and yes I passed emissions as well

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post #122 of 153 Old January 30th, 2012, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Its an issue with the MILS not working...The owner had to pull the negative battery cable or have the codes cleared every so often...You get working mils and it will be fine as rain...
He called me and told me it was the MILs that are defective and told me he had to clear the codes to remove the light


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2003 Azure Blue Mach 1

MGW, MAC Offroad X, Flowmaster Original 40's, Maganaflow 3.5" Tips, Anthracite 18x9's & 18x10's FR 500's wrapped with Nitto 555's, Eibach Pro Kit,
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post #123 of 153 Old January 30th, 2012, 02:52 PM
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I've had my o/r x pipe on for over a year with no MIL eliminators, and my light has never come on... It's wierd.


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post #124 of 153 Old January 30th, 2012, 03:24 PM
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He called me and told me it was the MILs that are defective and told me he had to clear the codes to remove the light


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They're simple as hell to make yourself and you can make them for less than $10.

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Left side has a drop down menu bar for MIL's. Easy stuff if you have a soldering iron.
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post #125 of 153 Old January 31st, 2012, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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They're simple as hell to make yourself and you can make them for less than $10.

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Left side has a drop down menu bar for MIL's. Easy stuff if you have a soldering iron.
Zinc have you personally made them, and does it work? If it does I am going to give to a go this weekend

2003 Azure Blue Mach 1

MGW, MAC Offroad X, Flowmaster Original 40's, Maganaflow 3.5" Tips, Anthracite 18x9's & 18x10's FR 500's wrapped with Nitto 555's, Eibach Pro Kit,
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post #126 of 153 Old January 31st, 2012, 02:36 AM
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Yes, I had them on my 2002 GT. I had to rebuild them after bottoming out one time, but nothing a zip-tie couldn't fix.

Just follow the directions to a 'T' and you'll come out just fine.
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post #127 of 153 Old January 31st, 2012, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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I guess I'll go to radio shack and try it out this weekend.

2003 Azure Blue Mach 1

MGW, MAC Offroad X, Flowmaster Original 40's, Maganaflow 3.5" Tips, Anthracite 18x9's & 18x10's FR 500's wrapped with Nitto 555's, Eibach Pro Kit,
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post #128 of 153 Old January 31st, 2012, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I had them on my 2002 GT. I had to rebuild them after bottoming out one time, but nothing a zip-tie couldn't fix.

Just follow the directions to a 'T' and you'll come out just fine.
I am confused do you do the splicing and soldering to the o2 sensor wiring or to the wire harness coming from the bottom of the Mach? If so how do you remove the harness from the bottom of the Mach so I can take it inside and do the soldering?


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2003 Azure Blue Mach 1

MGW, MAC Offroad X, Flowmaster Original 40's, Maganaflow 3.5" Tips, Anthracite 18x9's & 18x10's FR 500's wrapped with Nitto 555's, Eibach Pro Kit,
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post #129 of 153 Old January 31st, 2012, 03:56 PM
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Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness and remove the o2 sensor from the midpipe. Slide the shielding back and you'll have 4 wires. Cut the ones you need and use a stripper to get some wire. Solder then put rtv in there for protection.
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post #130 of 153 Old January 31st, 2012, 04:28 PM
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Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness and remove the o2 sensor from the midpipe. Slide the shielding back and you'll have 4 wires. Cut the ones you need and use a stripper to get some wire. Solder then put rtv in there for protection.
Dude, I thought Danny was trying to keep this on the cheap
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post #131 of 153 Old January 31st, 2012, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zinc02GT View Post
Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness and remove the o2 sensor from the midpipe. Slide the shielding back and you'll have 4 wires. Cut the ones you need and use a stripper to get some wire. Solder then put rtv in there for protection.
Thanks Zinc I was confused because I was oh shit how am I going to remove the harness lol I am glad it's done though the O2s man I appreciate your help I'll rep you when I get home and am on my computer


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2003 Azure Blue Mach 1

MGW, MAC Offroad X, Flowmaster Original 40's, Maganaflow 3.5" Tips, Anthracite 18x9's & 18x10's FR 500's wrapped with Nitto 555's, Eibach Pro Kit,
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post #132 of 153 Old February 1st, 2012, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Did the custom MIL's with some capacitors and resistors and it cleared the code at least it hasnt come back on yet it. The parts only cost me $12 at Radio Shack. I got it done after work today. Thanks Zinc reps given


EDIT WENT FOR A DRIVE AND THE CEL CAME BACK ON

2003 Azure Blue Mach 1

MGW, MAC Offroad X, Flowmaster Original 40's, Maganaflow 3.5" Tips, Anthracite 18x9's & 18x10's FR 500's wrapped with Nitto 555's, Eibach Pro Kit,

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post #133 of 153 Old February 2nd, 2012, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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I wonder if the soldering disconnected. I wanted to know if I were to get new MIL's would I have to fix the soldering on the O2's for it to work or can I just plug the new MIL's in and even if a wires on the O2s are not soldered together will it work?

2003 Azure Blue Mach 1

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post #134 of 153 Old February 2nd, 2012, 01:32 AM
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Put up some pics of what you did. I'd have to see it.
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post #135 of 153 Old February 2nd, 2012, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Put up some pics of what you did. I'd have to see it.
I didnt take any man

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post #136 of 153 Old February 2nd, 2012, 01:48 AM
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Do you think it's possible you soldered them backwards? As in the cap being on the O2 end instead of the harness end?
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post #137 of 153 Old February 2nd, 2012, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Do you think it's possible you soldered them backwards? As in the cap being on the O2 end instead of the harness end?
Yeah I really dont know if I did it correctly I did this all on the O2's black and gray wiring leaving the two white wires alone. And I have no idea it could be backwards that little thing looks the same whether you turn around or not.

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post #138 of 153 Old February 2nd, 2012, 02:20 AM
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Yeah it can be confusing the first time you look at it. Let me see if I can't make something in paint and put it up to make it look simpler.
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post #139 of 153 Old February 2nd, 2012, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah it can be confusing the first time you look at it. Let me see if I can't make something in paint and put it up to make it look simpler.
Ok I am wondering if I am going to go have to buy new capacitors and resistors since the ones I soldered will probably be ruined. I also dont think my soldering is all that good either because the soldering gun I have is pretty large and for this small soldering work. And I cut the gray wire instead of just stripping a piece on the first one I did so I just got a piece of a similar wire to solder the two gray sides back together along with the the capacitor, which I am pretty sure was a stupid move on my part WHat type of solder gun or iron do you suggest getting and do you think since I cut the gray wire when I wasnt suppose to, that I screwed that O2 up now?

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post #140 of 153 Old February 2nd, 2012, 02:32 AM
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Also, yellow wires = white since the background is white.

Red is resistor.

Orange is capacitor.
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