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post #21 of 98 Old April 17th, 2012, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Tokico Shocks

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...k-1994-04.html
ON SALE: ALL APRIL 2012

So I decided to try to fix my ride after putting in the lowering springs. Someone suggested to me that I probably completely blew out my shocks and struts. I don't think I TOTALLY destroyed the shocks because after taking them out I decided to play with them for a little and there was still gas pressure inside them, although the recovery wasn't nearly as fast as the tokicos. I am experiencing some improvement in the ride, but not as much as I would have hoped.

I only replaced the shocks because they were on sale at AM aaaaaaand I didn't have to get an alignment... when I think of doing anything to my front suspension, I just immediately add on ~90$-100$ because of the alignment that will be required. Typically that's enough to discourage me from going for it until I have everything I need. I heard that replacing the bearings can help the ride so I might do that next. This guy had some success here.

Sorry no PICs just yet.

Overall it's an easy install to replace the shocks, although I did have a hard time with the cap bolt under the trunk panels because the shock would spin along with the nut.



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post #22 of 98 Old April 17th, 2012, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Recently, I've been getting more and more and more discouraged about the condition of my rims. Not so much the front of the rims, they're pretty shiny when I give them a rub with a cloth and water. However, whenever it rained I could see the grime leaking out of the back. I decided to give Sonax a chance so I ordered two spray bottles of it. Then I saw a video with Meguiar's Wheel Brightener and I was impressed so I ordered a gallon of that.

Let me first start by saying, I have had the stock rims on for 8 years and never did anything to ever clean the actual wheel dish or spokes.

The Sonax seemed pretty cool because of the color change and I guess I'm to young to have realized that it may have been a gimick because although they claim it to be spray-on wash-off..It simply wasn't the case.

The Sonax DOES get some of the grime/dust off without scrubbing however, I wouldn't say it was more than 30% of what was caked on. It does change from green to red which is kind cool, but gets old after a while as you pretty much just want your wheels clean again.

The Meguair's Wheel Brightener I was more willing to use diligently because, well there was a lot more of it, plus, I was diluting it down. Most people use 4 water: 1 WB.... but because of the mess I had on my hands I was doing 1 water: 1 WB.

My procedure was pretty much as follows:
Spray on 1:1MWB and let sit for 10 minutes
Scrubbed with Wire tip brush for about 5-10 minutes getting all the nooks and crannies
Let sit for 10 minutes
Hose down
Spray on Sonax and let sit for 10 minutes
Scrubbed with Wire tip brush same as above
Let sit 10 minutes
Hose down

Below is the end result. I would definitely recommend the MWB simply because you get a lot more of it for what you pay for and it does, in my opinion a better job of cleaning the tough stuff. I would use Sonax on newer rims that are only a couple months - 2 years old.

There is still a little bit of something caked on in little specks on the dish that just wouldn't come off no matter what and some dark in the spokes I couldn't reach with the brush.

I will be cleaning these out probably once every 6 months moving forward.






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Last edited by slonison; April 18th, 2012 at 09:38 AM.
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post #23 of 98 Old April 17th, 2012, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Saving a spot for cleaning Fog Light Housing



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post #24 of 98 Old April 18th, 2012, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Saving a spot for ... dun dun dun.... installing a catback exhaust.



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post #25 of 98 Old April 18th, 2012, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Finally Saving a spot for my Interior (Parchment to Black) swap.



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post #26 of 98 Old April 18th, 2012, 12:34 AM
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you installed the chin wrong...which is why you have that gap at the wheel wells....besides that so far so good
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post #27 of 98 Old April 18th, 2012, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Yea, I'm not sure what happened because when I started at the wheel wells and worked my way forward, the front of the chin spoiler wasn't even coming close to the front of the bumper.

The I tried starting at one side and moving all the way to the other and it ended with like an 8" gap which was abysmal.. so rather than drilling EVEN more holes in my bumper I just started up front and figured I'd settle for an equal gap on both sides.



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post #28 of 98 Old April 18th, 2012, 10:57 AM
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easiest way to mount a chin spoiler.... tape it up to the bumper with duck tape or something
get the edges lined up with the sides of the bumper
take a sharpy and mark where to drill the holes
drill
install

It isn't supposed to line up with the very front of the bumper, that is why yours doesn't meet on the edges. It is supposed to sit back a bit on the front.


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post #29 of 98 Old April 18th, 2012, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ER THEN I 8ER! View Post
you installed the chin wrong...which is why you have that gap at the wheel wells....besides that so far so good
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowSix View Post
easiest way to mount a chin spoiler.... tape it up to the bumper with duck tape or something
get the edges lined up with the sides of the bumper
take a sharpy and mark where to drill the holes
drill
install

It isn't supposed to line up with the very front of the bumper, that is why yours doesn't meet on the edges. It is supposed to sit back a bit on the front.
+1




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post #30 of 98 Old April 18th, 2012, 09:30 PM
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Did your ride quality improve after installing the shocks/struts? Maybe the BBK springs aren't that great ... I've never really heard great things about any of BBK's products...

But normally when dropping you need to replace shocks, esp. if they're older. x2 ball joints and bumpsteer will help a little also, helps on brake dip and steering.

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post #31 of 98 Old April 18th, 2012, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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I only installed the shocks (rear) and that's it. I think my car's suspension was already shit, it's 10 years old and was still stock.

I would love to do the bumpsteer and the x2 ball joints, however. My main griping with touching the suspension is that if you pretty much take a bolt off the front, you need to get a wheel alignment (or so I've heard) so whenever I calculate the cost of doing anything to the front suspension I just add another $90 to that, which escalates the cost to make me want to do everything in one shot...which just isn't feasible right now.



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post #32 of 98 Old August 5th, 2012, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Today I decided to bring this thread back...

I put together a list of unfinished projects/things to fix list and realized that it's well over 15 things.

This is all in addition to the 8.8 rear I just found, now that my differential spit goo and metal fragments out it's only a matter of time before it completely blows. I can drive about 25mph without feel a terrible grinding sound but any above that and the car just feels like a person running with a broken femur.

Anyway, I decided that the project I would be working on today would be my windstar swap. Seeing as how is seems that Steven (coincidentally, I'm Stephen) over at VAP is closed down, seemingly for good on these kits. I have about 6 extra intakes lying around so I might put them together as kits and sell them out.

Well today, I think I went to autozone about 8 times and homedepot 9 times over the course of the day. They're about 3 blocks away but still walking there that many times was a killer.

I picked up some T's, some hosing and some metal sheets. The metal sheets are gonna give me problems for making the brackets because 16 gauge seems to be extremely sturdy but I can't imagine even trying to cut it, while at the same time, the 26 gauge I picked up can easily be cut, but seems a little flimsy. At least for now, I'll be mocking up some sort of brackets, and then I'll probably fab them out of sturdier material.

Decided to go all out and I shaved part of the Windstar housing so I can run the center vacuum hose between the upper and lower intakes. Pretty sure this is how VAP does it, but it was pretty cool to do it myself.

Same situation goes with the IAC. I'm gonna build some sort of bracket for it, but I'm not sure what it will end up looking like.

I'm pretty sure I spent about $75 in odds and ends today... :-(

On the brightside, on my last trip to HomeDepot, there were two smoking hot chicks there asking about screws. Brunette 9.5/10 and Redhead, ehh, 7/10. HomeDepot employee was being a total cockbag so I offered to help them out. Taught them about the screw width, threading and diameter.. Haley and Christine had some help hanging up their flat screen. Then I proceeded to teach them about another kind of screw.



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post #33 of 98 Old August 6th, 2012, 09:19 AM
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Thought this was another engine build

But I do like the stance with the lowering springs

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2000 Mustang V6 Convertable: Lt Headers, Divorced Duals w/ Flowmaster 40s, 8.8 with 4.10s, Comp Cams: 216/228, Trick Tuners Tune
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post #34 of 98 Old August 6th, 2012, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchollStang View Post
Thought this was another engine build

But I do like the stance with the lowering springs
Sorry to disappoint you. But it's not a built engine... yet at least. But it will be eventually. It's going to be a 6 build right now. I'm learning on the car right now. Once I swap my windstar, I'm going to play with the upper intake in order to learn some P&P. All in due time as right now, the car is my daily driver.



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post #35 of 98 Old August 16th, 2012, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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So today I decided to give it a go on the EGR and delete it in preparation for the Windstar...

It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

First list of things you're going to need:

8mm wrench
10mm wrench
Adjustable Pipe Wrench
EGR delete Plate (got mine through a member on here, but if you have the tools I can't imagine it would be difficult to fashion yourself one.)
5/8 flare brass cap Here
2x 6.0mm 1.0 thread 16mm depth screws
3/16 rubber cap Here
EGR Suppression Tune

I started by disconnecting all of the electrical connectors to the EGR components, as well as, the vaccuum line to the intake. Fairly simple enough. There's only one so disconnected both ends. The next step I took was to disconnect the brass pipe from the EGR solenoid (looks like a flying saucer, idk if it's even called solenoid). For this I used the adjustable pipe wrench to grab it and just loosen it up and pop it out.

At this point I was left withe the UFO attached to the bracket, I chose to remove them separately but you can try removing them together. The screw sizes are UFO to Bracket 10mm, Bracket to Intake 8mm. The location where the bracket grabs the intake is where the egr plate will go. I pulled off the bracket and at this point I was just left with the pipe connected to the passenger's side header. When you put the EGR plate on here you need to use shorter screws (the 2x 16mm 6.0mm's you bought would be handy) because the EGR bracket fills out some of the space of the longer screws.



I removed my air intake at this point because my forearms are kinda bulky ( I never thought I'd regret working out) and I only have one elbow. After that was disconnected and out of the way, inspected where the pipe connected to the header. It's kind of deep and I figured I would need to use the pipe wrench although I can't imagine how I'd fit it down there. Luckily for me, not 2 months ago, I had my entire EGR tube replaced due to a crack. The numbskull mechanic who did it must've never tightened the EGR tube to the header because I was able to unscrew it with my fingers.

So anyway, I was left with this


Not too difficult to see down there. I used the 5/8 flare brass cap at this point and it felt like it fit pretty snug. One day, I'll probably go in and seal it off but for now it works. Also one thing to note! If you're hesitant about getting the 5/8" flare cap, the threading the part that connects the pipe to the UFO is the same as the threading on the header, so you can use that to test fit without disconnecting the header.



Finally, the engine bay I guess looks a little bit cleaner...

Before:


After:



To wrap it all up, the car is going to throw a code for EGR missing, so if you have a dedicated tuner, get them to throw on a EGR delete to the tune so you're not throwing codes.

All in all, this was more of a preparation for doing the windstar but I thought I would ive some people who are following this a quick run through of the EGR delete.

Also, dont blame me if you dont pass smog! I know Cali is bad with that.



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post #36 of 98 Old August 17th, 2012, 09:10 AM
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awwww daggg! only reason i havent done mine is cause i dread on taking the tube of my manifold lol



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post #37 of 98 Old August 17th, 2012, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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So today i took my car down the street, despite the fact that the rear end is chewed up and sounds like a coffee can full of marbles and pennies. well after about 45 feet, I hear a clunky clunk. Engine sounds twice as loud via the indelible sound of ticking and then the horrid smell.

Needless to say, the cap I said I was going to more than hand tighten came off. So guys, moral of the story, do not simply hand tighten your caps.

I think that I'll be painting the wells of my chrome bullitts with chrome duplicator since theyre starting to peel on the inside. Sand'em down and lay a few coats? Also, if I'm going to have my tires rebalanced (some of the previous owners weights must've fallen off because I see the marks ) should I remove ALL the weights before I go?



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post #38 of 98 Old August 17th, 2012, 10:31 PM
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Hand tightening is never a good idea.

You can take off the weights if you want, but the people balancing them will probably take them off and start at square one anyways, so probably not worth your effort.
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post #39 of 98 Old August 19th, 2012, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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So today was day two grinding away and I finally completed the windstar swap.

Gonna try to keep this short and sweet but somewhat of a walkthrough for the folks.

Started by disconnecting the throttle cable from the throttlebody and bracket.
Before:

After:


Next up was removing the coil pack from the intake along with all of the vaccuum hoses.
1 for the brake booster in the back, one for the PCV outlet, and one for the fuel line, I already deleted my EGR, otherwise that would be another one there. (blue cap)


After that, removed the CAI from the throttle body and all adjoining vaccuum hoses, (defroster under the throttle body), a small 1/4 line
Before:

After:



At this point the intake should be ready to be pulled. I pulled out all 12 screws so anyone else trying would know where they were to target them.


The Intake popped right off


Several years of EGR on the lower.

Engine:

Gasket off:






And this is where the nightmare began...
So no matter what anyone says, there is absolutely no way the intake will fit without modifying the coolant line. I tried using a crowbar to pry the black part with the release down near the coolant tube but it was becoming rather difficult so I literally started smashing at it with a hammer. Well the car decided to puke coolant all over the place (I felt like wickedsnake) as the car was physical vomiting all over the street green shit.


Some how I got a hold of the situation and learned that this was here that the actual coolant was leaking from.


I know you guys don't like to use it but I just jb welded the damn thing shut and that was the end of it...


Using a dremel I got fancy with the bottom of the intake (saw this on another forum) and decided to snake a house under the housing (I didn't end up using this because the outlet was in the way of my bracket in the final stages of the swap.


Continue'd in next post



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post #40 of 98 Old August 19th, 2012, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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This is the intake finally on and bolted down



One thing to note, this is NOT the final version. Looking at the intake, you'll notice where the intake has the bump still from the stock IAC for the Windstar Throttle body. This part would NOT fit under my stock hood, so I used a hack saw and just leveled it off.
Crude but effective.


The rest is pretty much just putting the shit back together in the end.
This is where I left off yesterday.



There are several things I may expand on but here are the things to note.

1. Always use RTV sealer (or alternative) for sealing gaskets. I had to redo several things in order to rectify this.
2. The weight of the Intake Tubing will most likely cause the MAF to sit on the AC pulley. Make sure that you you support it somehow off of it.
3. The TPS and IAC wires need to be extended . TPS has 3, IAC has 2. Be sure not to mix them up.
4, Had to cut the GT hood scoop screw so it didn't slam the TB.
5. Need to use a GT throttlebody. The windstar and v6 will nto fit because of the top hump that is used for the IAC. This can easily be cut off from the plastic intake, but the steel of the throttle body is another story


I will be posting so more close-up pictures of my brackets soon so anyone who wants to can copy them.

Below are two videos.

This one is of the windstar finally running during the day. There was a massive vaccuum leak which causes the rpms to go absolutely crazy during Idle until eventually the car just shut off.


This video is after I took another trip back to HomeDepot, got some more RTV, laid it on thick, then put my final brackets on and took it for a spin shortly after.


Maybe it's the placebo effect, maybe not, but it felt much more responsive compared to the stock intake!



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