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post #1 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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Streetable horsepower?

What's your idea of a good streetable horsepower?

Let's not go insane here an say 1000hp or anything crazy. Just a good amount for daily driving an maybe a blue moon trip to the track.

With my engine build, I'm shooting for right around 400


Mind you these will be rear wheel power numbers I'm looking for


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post #2 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 02:51 AM
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Honestly, I'm making 357/358 right now and I feel that with cheap tires that's pretty much the limit, especially for rain driving. If I throw on some grippy tires though 400-500 IMO.

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post #3 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 02:56 AM
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Hp is irrelevant. It torque and where the torque is in the powerband and the characteristics of the powerband.
400hp is great but if you don't start making any power til 4000rpm and it's over at 6500 then that kinda sucks.
A fun engine is a big bore,long stroke,these features will build great torque right off the line. Now if you could incorporate a 6000ish rpm red line that would make for a fun street motor.
It's like comparing a crotch rocket motor to a big cube v-twin. The rocket needs rpms to make power whereas the v-twin has gobs of torque right from idle.
I pick torque

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post #4 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 02:57 AM
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I'd like to eventully shoot for 500. A guy around here has a Mach 1 making just over 500rwhp. And I believe DDs it
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post #5 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 05:09 AM
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Power is power regardless if it is represented in torque or HP. It's just two different ways to represent the same thing. HP is basically just torque times engine speed. With that said, streetability is very subjective. Proper throttle control is the real deal breaker. If you're one of these guys that can only drive with the pedal all the way to the floor then I would say 300 HP would be the limit. If you know how to drive then 500-600 HP is perfectly acceptable. Gearing and suspension play a major part too in what can be considered as streetable. I run 485 through an automatic which is probably right around 500 with a manual. The torque curve comes on early and stays pretty flat straight through the rpm range. You can't just mash the pedal to floor, but you can roll it on to full throttle pretty quickly and it will take a little pedaling to maintain traction in the lower gears. This is through a 4.10 rear end and DR's. I feel that I could use another 50-60 HP and still be able to handily maintain control on the street without too many issues.


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post #6 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 Boss View Post
Power is power regardless if it is represented in torque or HP. It's just two different ways to represent the same thing. HP is basically just torque times engine speed. With that said, streetability is very subjective. Proper throttle control is the real deal breaker. If you're one of these guys that can only drive with the pedal all the way to the floor then I would say 300 HP would be the limit. If you know how to drive then 500-600 HP is perfectly acceptable. Gearing and suspension play a major part too in what can be considered as streetable. I run 485 through an automatic which is probably right around 500 with a manual. The torque curve comes on early and stays pretty flat straight through the rpm range. You can't just mash the pedal to floor, but you can roll it on to full throttle pretty quickly and it will take a little pedaling to maintain traction in the lower gears. This is through a 4.10 rear end and DR's. I feel that I could use another 50-60 HP and still be able to handily maintain control on the street without too many issues.
Ok considering we know how to drive an don't always mash the pedal. I'm just trying to figure what everyone around is running power wise. My friends cobra make 464/500 and is daily driven.

My old mustang made 306rwhp and was daily driven. I loved it. It was my first mustang so I had fun.

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post #7 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 08:06 AM
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My 96 made 431rwhp and that was about perfect for me being strictly a street car.

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post #8 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 08:16 AM
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I have no traction with nitto 555's(brand new) and only 460hp.

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post #9 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 08:26 AM
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IMHO it is all about setup... The combination determines if the car is streetable or not. IMHO, you can have a 1000+ Horsepower Turbo or Centrifugal car that is streetable with the correct suspension setup and a few trick pieces of electronics. However, it is VERY hard to make a 1000+ horsepower nitrous or positive displacement supercharged combo streetable because of the way power is delivered. On the same note, it is harder to make a high strong N/A car streetable because of the cam profiles and high stall/low gearing requirements.
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post #10 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabikejumper View Post
I have no traction with nitto 555's(brabd bew) and only 460hp.
That'd be because NT555's are a cheap tire that doesn't provide much grip... I know "cheap" is a relative term, however, in the performance tire world NT555's are very low on the totem pole.
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post #11 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 08:35 AM
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Really? Thought 555's were a good street dd tire. Maybe I should try a street radial.

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post #12 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 08:37 AM
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As stated it's all about throttle control. I flipped the nitrous on the other night (cold out), on Nitto Street NT555s and from a roll at 45mph she stepped out on me and made me lift. I still won tho. Thats probably on about 400hp.

I honestly want to forge a 4.6l with a B302 Stroker Kit and boost my way to 800hp.
I think a Turbo setup would allow for good daily abilities but the instant power of the supercharger is hard to ignore...

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post #13 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabikejumper View Post
Really? Thought 555's were a good street dd tire. Maybe I should try a street radial.
In my experience NT555's tend to do OK only when they are "just right" in temp. They can't be cold because they are to hard, but when they get to hot the get greasy.

Best street tire for the money in my opinion is Dunlop Star Spec's:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....t+Z1+Star+Spec

Michelin Pilot Super Sports are the best street tire, however, they are VERY expensive:
Michelin****Pilot Super Sport

They are the best compromise between wet and dry traction. When they wear they just keep getting better in the dry, however, they become less and less reliable in the wet as they wear.
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post #14 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 09:49 AM
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Not sure how much horsepower I have but I think it's perfect.

-Got a really good 93 race tune (finally got it back)
-full offroad MAC exhaust
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Doesn't seem like much but feels really good to me

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post #15 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 10:01 AM
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This is completely subjective.

My idea of fun streetable horsepower is about 15-17 lbs per hp. (that's about what a stock foxbody makes). It's just enough to be entertaining, but you have to work at it. At 11-12 lbs per hp I find that I have to reign in my right foot to stay legal, and if I have to drive it like a grandma, what's the point of having a sports car?

If you're just talking about what you can drive on the street without it being too much of a pain in the ass, it's going to depend on your skill, your tires, your tolerance, and your local laws.

Function > Form, always
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post #16 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeM View Post
In my experience NT555's tend to do OK only when they are "just right" in temp. They can't be cold because they are to hard, but when they get to hot the get greasy.

Best street tire for the money in my opinion is Dunlop Star Spec's:
Dunlop****Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec

Michelin Pilot Super Sports are the best street tire, however, they are VERY expensive:
Michelin****Pilot Super Sport

They are the best compromise between wet and dry traction. When they wear they just keep getting better in the dry, however, they become less and less reliable in the wet as they wear.

I'll look into them. I just don't know if I want to spend the money on better tires. I only drive it maybe 1-2 times a month.

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post #17 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 10:22 AM
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I'm on board with a couple of the guys that posted. Torque is where it's at, that's what shoves you back against the seat. Give me lots of torque and I'm a happy boy!

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post #18 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabikejumper View Post
I'll look into them. I just don't know if I want to spend the money on better tires. I only drive it maybe 1-2 times a month.
If that's the case, you definitely don't want star specs. If my car sits for a week, they flat-spot and for the first couple miles they go whump-whump-whump-whump until they round back out.

They're also a handling tire, so if you're a drag racer you won't like the stiff sidewalls on 'em.

Don't get me wrong, I love mine. I'd go so far as to say they're the best tires I've ever had. They stick like glue and wear like iron.

Function > Form, always
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post #19 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReverendDexter View Post
If that's the case, you definitely don't want star specs. If my car sits for a week, they flat-spot and for the first couple miles they go whump-whump-whump-whump until they round back out.

They're also a handling tire, so if you're a drag racer you won't like the stiff sidewalls on 'em.

Don't get me wrong, I love mine. I'd go so far as to say they're the best tires I've ever had. They stick like glue and wear like iron.
This is true, however, 555R's will do the same thing if he were to get those. They flat spot real easy because they are even softer than Star Spec's.
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post #20 of 91 Old November 9th, 2012, 10:40 AM
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I think 500-550rwhp is just right for a DD Mustang. Plenty enough to have fun with but still civilized enough to where you don't have to drive extremely carefully just to stop from spinning all over the place.

I'm sad hearing all this about my Nitto NT555s though.




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