Well, here we are back from the dead! I just want to say that my Boss was built in December of 2010 so the part numbers may vary from what you might have. The best thing to always do is give your VIN# to your favorite Ford Store (in my case [email protected]) and let them look up the parts for you.
Back in May, I got a call from Eric at JPC letting me know that Rich was coming to MD for his nephews graduation from Annapolis and had dropped off my shortblock and that it was all ready for whenever I would want to come and pick it up. Not long after I sent a couple of my guys down to MD and had them pick up the motor for me and it has long since sat under a rack in one of our warehouses until I had the funding to finish the rest of the motor. Fast forward to this weekend and I almost at the finish line! The only things that I am currently missing are the heads, head gaskets, lockouts, cams, engine sensors and I’m sure a bunch of miscellaneous odds and ends. I got ahold of Eric late on Friday and he told me the head gaskets and heads shipped from them on Friday, so I should hopefully have them on Tuesday and I will be that much closer to getting this completed.
On to the good shit! For anyone interested I have these exploded view of the parts list for the Boss and GT motors (this one is the Boss motor but they mostly share the same components, just different parts and subsequently, part numbers) if you want the GT version, let me know and I can get that to you.
---------- Post added at 11:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 PM ----------
That being said, I got to work on getting the engine on the stand …. Although I jumped the gun a little :/ I wanted to go ahead and put the Rear main seal and retainer plate in before I bolted it up to the stand, but I didn’t have the rear main seal tool or the old seal, nor could I find a piece of PVC that was the same size so I can always put that on when I get the tool. As is, the shortblock isn’t that heavy so I can put it back up on the tailgate of the pickup in its crate and put it on then.
Rear Main Seal
- Rear Main Seal Plate (Retainer) - Part # BR3Z-6K301-A
- Rear Main Seal - Part # AT4Z-6701-A
---------- Post added at 11:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:55 PM ----------
That was the first bit of misfortune, so I went on ahead and grabbed my oil pump. I looked at the crankshaft to locate the orientation of the two flat parts on my crankshaft. In the picture you can see that the flat part is at an 11:58 position, so what you do is you rotate the gears in the oil pump so that the subsequent marks align with the flat pieces on the crankshaft.
From there all you do is slide the oil pump flat up against the block and you can put your oil pump bolts and studs into place. I even had my helper with me today!
Here I ran into my second bit of misfortune, my torque wrench only goes down to 240 in/lbs. and 24 ft./lbs. so I can’t torque the bolts down on the oil pump. Well, that sucks but I can torque those down later. No biggie there, shit happens I guess. That’s what I get for not planning accordingly. Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance!
I will go over the torque sequences once I get the torque wrench as the oil pump has some specific requirements for the torque settings.
---------- Post added at 11:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:56 PM ----------
So, I turned my attention next to the head studs. At least I can get those in without any issue. I grabbed the dowel pins for the heads (you should always get news ones for your build, they were like 4 bucks) and tapped them into place with my hammer. Once they reach the bottom they make a different sound when you hit them.
I ordered the block back in January and in the subsequent 5 months JPC and myself had forgotten if I actually had a 2013 block like the invoice stated or if that was just a place holder signifying a used black was used on the invoice so I talked to Eric at JPC about head bolt options and while he agreed that I would probably be fine with the TTY bolts, it never hurts to go with the ARP head studs. I agreed with that sentiment but my wallet was none too happy about hearing that haha. So I went and grabbed a head bolt from the Boss and proceeded to screw it into the block to see if it would go in. Sure enough it screwed in hand tight without issue. Well I guess that solves that debate!
Or so I thought …..
I went to go put the ARP studs in and they drop right to the bottom of the hole without touching a single thread ….. FUCKING FUCKING DICKHEADED FAT LEASBIAN WHO SEXUAL ASSAULTED A PENGUIN!!!!
I can’t win, Uncle Murphy has struck again. Anything that could have gone wrong went wrong. I hope this isn’t a sign of things to come. I am thinking maybe either ARP labeled the wrong box or for whatever reason the 2012 head bolts will fit in the hole for a 2013 block after being stretched? Or if you see that I fucked something up, speak up and call me the retard.
- Dowel pins - FA8Z-6AA008-AA
- 11-12 ARP Head Studs - 256-4702
- 13-14 ARP Head Studs - 256-4301
---------- Post added August 2nd, 2015 at 12:01 AM ---------- Previous post was August 1st, 2015 at 11:58 PM ----------
Well after today I was sort of bummed and I remember what Matt D said in his Coyote swap thread:
Let me start off by saying... when doing a big or decent size build the main key (other then running out of money) is to not loose motivation!
So, I ran into my bedroom and stared at Mt. Car parts and grabbed the 3 boxes at the bottom of the pile. I figured I shouldn’t lose motivation so let me see this beautiful thing on the motor. Too bad you are never going to see it once it is in. I dug through my parts bin and pulled out the baggie labeled Oil p/u tube and spacer and I threw those in “my parts washer” tubs and cleaned them off with some dawn, clean water and coffee filters since they are cheap and lint free. I went ahead and put the pickup tube spacer on, and then I grabbed my oil pan gasket/windage tray. While I am modeling my thread off of tmcolegr’s awesome build thread, you will notice no bare feet here! Only how fucking poor I am right now and hoping my shoes will last me another couple of weeks -_-
I took a look at it along with most every part I have put on to ensure there was no dust or debris that could get into the motor and cause damage and would you look at that … dust and junk!
One of the many things I distinctly remember from tmcolegr’s build thread is cleanliness is very important as well as check all your parts even new ones so I am being careful with the items I put on there. I wiped off the dirt and lubricated the gasket on both sides of the windage tray. Remember, the convex side faces up (just as it is in the picture). I then proceeded to grab my oil pump pick up tube and lubricated the gasket on that as well and put it into place.
I didn’t torque any of the pickup tube bolts or the spacer bolt as those are in/lbs. as well so I will get those specs when I do that. I then put the pièce de résistance on and turned the shortblock around and looked at it. It is starting to look like a real engine again!!!! Motivation returned!
I did not check pickup tube clearances yet as I didn’t torque anything down but once I do I will highlight the method in doing that as well.
- Oil Pan gasket/Windage Tray - BR3Z-6701-A
- Oil Pump Pickup Tube & Gasket - BR3Z-6622-A
- Moroso Race Oil Pan - 20572