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post #21 of 73 Old November 20th, 2014, 11:45 AM
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Those don't look too bad. Honestly I'm thinking your rod bearing on #7 I believe is the big issue. It looks to me like it has wore through the layers of lead and copper down to the core. I wonder what caused it to spin though.
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post #22 of 73 Old November 21st, 2014, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Those don't look too bad. Honestly I'm thinking your rod bearing on #7 I believe is the big issue. It looks to me like it has wore through the layers of lead and copper down to the core. I wonder what caused it to spin though.
I'm guessing an oiling issue but I have no idea why or how. I took the crank out last night and #2 & #3 main bearings were starting to be wiped away on the back almost like #7 was. I will work on something a bit tonight going into a little bit more detail (sorry for the long posts guys).

Either way, this is how it looked last night once I was able to get the crank out.

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post #23 of 73 Old November 23rd, 2014, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Since I was sick and I had no energy to try and pull out the main caps, the first thing I did was get to work on the oil pump. After removing all the screws for the oil pump I opened her up hoping to find it shattered or cracked but as usual I was let down here. Here is what it looked like when I opened it up.



After taking a good look at it I didn’t see any cracks or anything like that but I did notice what we now know is bearing material on the inner and outer gears of the oil pump. I don’t see any scratches, cracks, gouges, brakes etc. in the oil pump gears so they should be good even though they will be being replaced in the build with a set of TSS gears.




Once I gained my strength back I decided to finish off tearing the block down to nothing, so I got to work on pulling the last 2 caps out. #4 came out fairly smooth (about 5 minutes of back and forth while pulling up at the same time) while #5 was decidedly more stubborn. In all honesty I felt like blowing it out with some C4 since it seemed to be coming out 1/16th of an inch every 4 minutes. After quite some time and wrestling, out it came and I was able to take a look at the crank. I didn’t notice any odd or unusual marks outside of what appears to be some marks from when the crankshaft was balanced so I didn’t take any pictures. But if you guys want pictures of my shaft you will have to get in line.

Anyway, I pulled out the bearings and from the top they looked decent, some minor scoring on them but the bottom side looked like there were some wear marks on them.










I tried to get a picture of all of them together to save some space but you can see for yourself. #3 & #4 both had the part numbers wiped out from them and it looks like the little tab was being worn down as well. All of the caps had these weird spots on the bottom that were completely smooth as opposed to this criss-cross pattern that seems to be made that way. If you look at the overhead view you can somewhat make out what I am talking about especially looking at the right hand side of the #3 bearing (order goes left to right so #1 on the far left and #5 on the far right).






Can anyone tell me if this is normal? It looks like there is some sort of scoring on the #5 main (I guess that is what you would call it).



Outside of that the block is completely torn down with nothing left on it. Now we are going onto the cleaning phase. I think that the internal side of cleaning will be taken care of when it comes time to machine the block as well put the liners in it but I will find out for sure when I get the quote from JPC.

Quote:
  • Oil Pump – 8 x T30
  • Rear Main Seal Plate 6 x 10mm
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post #24 of 73 Old December 26th, 2014, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered a whole bunch of stuff for the Black Friday specials that have been going on to try and help alleviate the cost of the build. Parts have been trickeling in and I have been gathering them in the garage for now. Considering it has been fairly cold and the garage isn’t heated I haven’t been able to put away the parts like I have wanted to so the garage is really starting to get pretty crowded.


Anyway, I picked up the following parts:


Quote:
  • 2013 GT500 Cooling Fan – Part# M-8C607-MSVT
  • Aeroforce Interceptor Single Gauge – Part# CN101
  • Aeroforce Black Bezel –Part# AF-BEZEL-BLACK
  • Aeroforce Black Boss 302 Gauge Face – Part# AF-LOGO-BOSS302
  • Aeroforce 5V regulator kit – Part# AF-SENS010
  • BMR K-Member - Part #KM018
  • BMR Tubular A-Arms – Part # AA021
  • BMR Radiator Support – Part # RS003
  • Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 7/8ths – Part# 11412400 Supersedes Part #60-41-188
  • McLeod RST Clutch with Lightweight Steel flywheel Package – JPC Racing Part # 1124
  • Moroso Race Oil Pan – Part # 20572
  • Oil Pan Gasket – Part# BR3Z-6710-A
  • Oil Pickup Tube – Part# BR3Z-6622-A
  • Oil Pump – Part# BR3Z-6600-A
  • Roush Vent Pod – Part# 404470
  • TSS Billet Oil Pump Gears – JPC Racing Part # 1760 (It may be the same as TSS’s but I couldn’t find a part number on their website)

I got sorta bored just doing nothing so I went out and grabbed the Gauge bezel off of the car so I can put in the Roush vent pod and drop in the Aeroforce gauge to see what it looks like.








I was trying to keep it somewhat sleeper where if you weren’t looking for it you wouldn’t really notice it in there. I may take the black gauge face that came with it and remove the Aeroforce logo and put a Red Boss 302 logo in that one and see what it looks like.


First Post updated with a Parts List

---------- Post added at 11:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------

Here are some pics of the Moroso Race Pan since it is such a work of art. I have seen a lot of Boss 302 guys running the Moroso Race Pan as well as the Canton unit (In fact that is what Kenny Brown uses on his line of cars). When asking about it I just kept getting the same answer about the Moroso Race Pan. The internal baffling and trap door setup works to keep the oil where it should be and will prevent any oil starvation issues when braking and in mid turn. It also has a bung on it for an oil temperature sensor which is an excellent tool to have for when you are going around the track to keep an eye on things and just a great idea in general. You will need the 5V regulator to run it with the Aeroforce gauge though so don't forget to either buy the one Aeroforce sells or makeone yourself. I just have to figure out which oil temperature sensor to get and get it all wired to the Aeroforce gauge. I believe Aerofroce has one but I will email them after the holiday and see if that is what I should be using.







It is supposed to be beautiful out this weekend so I plan on getting the BMR pieces installed as well as clean up a lot of the items in the garage and putting them in bins for storage until it comes time to re assemble the engine.

Speaking of which I started to get things finalized with the gentleman at JPC regarding the build of the shortblock. I will be using a 2013 block in which they will be using the Darton Hat Style Sleeves with an offset ground crank creating approximately 326CI (so much for the 302 in Boss 302 lol). Internals will be custom Diamond Pistons, Total Seal Rings AP finish, Manley Lightweight I beam rods, King HP Series Mains, Clevite Rod Bearings, and ARP Hardware along with Teflon Skirt coating on the Pistons. I will keep the stock compression ratio as I plan to run it on pump gas until I can find a reliable place for E85. I just put down the deposit to get started on the pistons so I will be working pretty much every day for the foreseeable future in order to get everything completed. I am hoping to have everything done before Carlisle in June but funding will be the deciding factor in whether or not that will actually happen. If not it's ok no biggy but it would be kind of nice.


Sean
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post #25 of 73 Old December 27th, 2014, 12:16 PM
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Looking at everything it seems to me that it was either oil starvation at speed, or bearings failed under load.


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post #26 of 73 Old December 28th, 2014, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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I got some assembly lube in the mail on Saturday and got to work putting in the TSS Oil Pump gears. While digging through some threads I found a post by Chris (BadPiggy) on S197. On the TSS Oil Pump Gears they have the number for what gears go into which kind of oil pumps as well as a set of numbers on the bottom. Here I thought that they were just a batch number but that doesn’t appear to be the case.

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Interesting.
Just called TSS.

They place those lot numbers on the rings just before shipping.
They record who received what lot numbers when sent out.
If they catch a bad gear going out...or a gear fails after it's gone out...they know who to contact.

Sounds to me like it's one way for them to lookout for us, the end user.
Anyway, onto the pictures I guess. Due to the fact that I have little flakes of metal throughout my entire engine I am going to be replacing most of the internal engine parts. So I hit up Steve over at Tasca and they got me a new Oil Pump.



I opened up the oil pump and pulled out the cast oil pump gears and grabbed the Permatex Assembly Lube and coated the news gears in some lube. I oriented them in the same way as the old gears came in. It took a bit of persuasion to get them in as they didn’t just drop in like the stock gears. I put a light coat of assembly lube on the new gears so that the rotating surfaces were red and covered but not too covered where you had these giant globs of lube on the gears. After rotating the gears by hand a couple of times to make sure that the assembly lube worked its way into everything I closed it up and torqued the screws to 90in./lbs. When I tightened up the backing plate I rotated the gears as well to ensure that there were no issues or binding. I forgot to mention to make sure you either buy a new oil pump pickup tube gasket or reuse the old one from the oil pump if you decide to buy a new oil pump.

Old


New


Quote:
Parts used
  • TSS Billet Oil Pump Gears (JPC Racing Part #) – 1760
  • Ford 5.0 Oil Pump Part # - BR3Z-6600-A
  • Permatex Ultra Slick Assembly Lube Part # - 81950
Tools Needed
  • T30 bit
  • 3/8in. socket
  • Torque Wrench
Torque Specs
  • 90in./lbs.
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post #27 of 73 Old December 30th, 2014, 03:12 PM
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post #28 of 73 Old January 6th, 2015, 05:29 PM
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Is the assembly lube necessary when putting the oil pump together? I wanted to ask because I've been following MMR's guide to install Oil Pump Gears on my 5.0, but they make no mention of using the assembly lube and simply state to cover the new gear/interior in oil....

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-few-pics.html
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post #29 of 73 Old January 6th, 2015, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Is the assembly lube necessary when putting the oil pump together? I wanted to ask because I've been following MMR's guide to install Oil Pump Gears on my 5.0, but they make no mention of using the assembly lube and simply state to cover the new gear/interior in oil....

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-few-pics.html
You don't have to use assembly lube. You can coat the gears in some oil and do it that way. When I sent an email to TSS about it they suggested either assembly lube or oil for lubrication.
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post #30 of 73 Old January 12th, 2015, 02:07 AM
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Wow man, sorry you have to go through all this. Crazy what happened.

Really nice post though, very detailed and great information.

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post #31 of 73 Old January 17th, 2015, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Wow man, sorry you have to go through all this. Crazy what happened.

Really nice post though, very detailed and great information.
I have to say, when I found the metal in the oil I was a hell of a lot less upset or angry than I tought I would be. I mean it sucks big time, the money that I am putting towards this could have gone towards other things but I am actually kind of happy that the engine blew which is odd to say.

That being said, I called JPC and put down more money on the engine and they are going to start ordering parts to build the shortblock. I also went ahead and got a coating for the bearings (the mains I believe, not the rod bearings). In my searching I found that they are there to provide a sacrificial layer should anything happen to the bearings themselves. It is there for something like a dry start event or if there is a loss of oil pressure. Considering that I plan to do more autocross and HPDE style events I figured if I put a coating on the bearings and say I momentarily lost some oil pressure mid turn the coating would help protect the bearings some. Not to mention that I figure that if I was spending $350 on billet oil pump gears and possibly on a billet crankshaft sprocket I might as well put down $275 to try and make the motor a little bit safer. The crankshaft will have o be clearanced for the bearings though as you are adding an additional layer onto the bearings making them thicker. The most you wnt to add for the coting is going to be .0004" so it isn't going to be a terribly thick layer but just enough to give the bearings another chance to live in the case shit goes wrong.

Anyway, the specs for the engine are as such:
  • 2013 5.0 Block ~ 326 CI
    • Darton sleeves
    • Custom N/A Spec Diamond Pistons stock compression ratio
    • Manley Lightweight I beam rods
    • Offset ground Crankshaft
    • Clevite rod bearings
    • Total Seal Rings
    • ARP Hardware
    • King HP coated main bearings
    • New engine hardware (Boss 302 Tensioners, Phasers, pickup tube, gaskets, etc.)
    • TSS Oil Pump gears
    • MMR Billet crankshaft sprocket
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post #32 of 73 Old February 9th, 2015, 01:34 PM
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any updates?

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post #33 of 73 Old February 12th, 2015, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Nothing new yet to be honest. You know what they say, make hay when the sun is shining so that's all that I'm doing for now until I can figure out what everything else is going to cost me. Hopefully I will be able to add a few more things like ceramic coating my headers and a carbon fiber driveshaft and the MGW race shifter.
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post #34 of 73 Old April 5th, 2015, 03:18 PM
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Excellent thread...thanks for the detailed write-up. So you are replacing the block? Are you building the short-block yourself or ordering one already built?


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post #35 of 73 Old May 11th, 2015, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent thread...thanks for the detailed write-up. So you are replacing the block? Are you building the short-block yourself or ordering one already built?
Yes, I am replacing the block with a 2013 that either JPC or RGR had just sitting there so they used that block and sleeved it. In all honesty, it would have been cool if I were to build the shortblock but not having all the tools necessary to measure things like crankshaft endplay, ensuring the bores were round, the crankshaft was all set I figured it would be best to leave it up to the professionals to do so I have RGR building the shortblock for me.

A couple of weeks ago I sent RGR my heads to see what they could do with them and if they were in fact good to use. Turned out as I had thought they were FUBAR. I then went to go ahead and price out a new set of Boss 302 heads so I contacted Steve over at Tasca, turns out Ford had some super mega VIN requirements that Steve hasn't seen before and they want $2800 for the heads alone. Now that was just a wee bit too much for me to lay out so as per Eric's suggestion we went ahead with a set of 2015 heads which turned out to be $1500.

Quote:
PSA

At this point I just want to stop and tell people that there is a guy selling bare coyote and Boss 302 heads (that have been CNC'd and those which haven't been CNC'd) for pretty cheap. Don't buy them, they are factory throw aways that didn't meet QC standards. Not to mention they do not come with the spark plug tubes installed and as far as I know you can't put them in separately and even Rich (from RGR) tried putting them in and he even said forget it as it was just too difficult.
That is pretty much where I have left off. The shortblock is all built so I am just waiting on the heads and cams than I can get to building the engine and having some fun. Of course there are many other things along the way outside of the heads and cams but those are the major parts.
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post #36 of 73 Old August 2nd, 2015, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Well, here we are back from the dead! I just want to say that my Boss was built in December of 2010 so the part numbers may vary from what you might have. The best thing to always do is give your VIN# to your favorite Ford Store (in my case [email protected]) and let them look up the parts for you.

Back in May, I got a call from Eric at JPC letting me know that Rich was coming to MD for his nephews graduation from Annapolis and had dropped off my shortblock and that it was all ready for whenever I would want to come and pick it up. Not long after I sent a couple of my guys down to MD and had them pick up the motor for me and it has long since sat under a rack in one of our warehouses until I had the funding to finish the rest of the motor. Fast forward to this weekend and I almost at the finish line! The only things that I am currently missing are the heads, head gaskets, lockouts, cams, engine sensors and I’m sure a bunch of miscellaneous odds and ends. I got ahold of Eric late on Friday and he told me the head gaskets and heads shipped from them on Friday, so I should hopefully have them on Tuesday and I will be that much closer to getting this completed.

On to the good shit! For anyone interested I have these exploded view of the parts list for the Boss and GT motors (this one is the Boss motor but they mostly share the same components, just different parts and subsequently, part numbers) if you want the GT version, let me know and I can get that to you.













---------- Post added at 11:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 PM ----------

That being said, I got to work on getting the engine on the stand …. Although I jumped the gun a little :/ I wanted to go ahead and put the Rear main seal and retainer plate in before I bolted it up to the stand, but I didn’t have the rear main seal tool or the old seal, nor could I find a piece of PVC that was the same size so I can always put that on when I get the tool. As is, the shortblock isn’t that heavy so I can put it back up on the tailgate of the pickup in its crate and put it on then.



Retainer plate



Rear Main Seal

Quote:
  • Rear Main Seal Plate (Retainer) - Part # BR3Z-6K301-A
  • Rear Main Seal - Part # AT4Z-6701-A


---------- Post added at 11:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:55 PM ----------

That was the first bit of misfortune, so I went on ahead and grabbed my oil pump. I looked at the crankshaft to locate the orientation of the two flat parts on my crankshaft. In the picture you can see that the flat part is at an 11:58 position, so what you do is you rotate the gears in the oil pump so that the subsequent marks align with the flat pieces on the crankshaft.



From there all you do is slide the oil pump flat up against the block and you can put your oil pump bolts and studs into place. I even had my helper with me today!



Here I ran into my second bit of misfortune, my torque wrench only goes down to 240 in/lbs. and 24 ft./lbs. so I can’t torque the bolts down on the oil pump. Well, that sucks but I can torque those down later. No biggie there, shit happens I guess. That’s what I get for not planning accordingly. Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance!



I will go over the torque sequences once I get the torque wrench as the oil pump has some specific requirements for the torque settings.

---------- Post added at 11:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:56 PM ----------

So, I turned my attention next to the head studs. At least I can get those in without any issue. I grabbed the dowel pins for the heads (you should always get news ones for your build, they were like 4 bucks) and tapped them into place with my hammer. Once they reach the bottom they make a different sound when you hit them.



I ordered the block back in January and in the subsequent 5 months JPC and myself had forgotten if I actually had a 2013 block like the invoice stated or if that was just a place holder signifying a used black was used on the invoice so I talked to Eric at JPC about head bolt options and while he agreed that I would probably be fine with the TTY bolts, it never hurts to go with the ARP head studs. I agreed with that sentiment but my wallet was none too happy about hearing that haha. So I went and grabbed a head bolt from the Boss and proceeded to screw it into the block to see if it would go in. Sure enough it screwed in hand tight without issue. Well I guess that solves that debate!



Or so I thought …..


I went to go put the ARP studs in and they drop right to the bottom of the hole without touching a single thread ….. FUCKING FUCKING DICKHEADED FAT LEASBIAN WHO SEXUAL ASSAULTED A PENGUIN!!!!

FUCK



I can’t win, Uncle Murphy has struck again. Anything that could have gone wrong went wrong. I hope this isn’t a sign of things to come. I am thinking maybe either ARP labeled the wrong box or for whatever reason the 2012 head bolts will fit in the hole for a 2013 block after being stretched? Or if you see that I fucked something up, speak up and call me the retard.

Quote:
  • Dowel pins - FA8Z-6AA008-AA
  • 11-12 ARP Head Studs - 256-4702
  • 13-14 ARP Head Studs - 256-4301


---------- Post added August 2nd, 2015 at 12:01 AM ---------- Previous post was August 1st, 2015 at 11:58 PM ----------

Well after today I was sort of bummed and I remember what Matt D said in his Coyote swap thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt D View Post
Let me start off by saying... when doing a big or decent size build the main key (other then running out of money) is to not loose motivation!
So, I ran into my bedroom and stared at Mt. Car parts and grabbed the 3 boxes at the bottom of the pile. I figured I shouldn’t lose motivation so let me see this beautiful thing on the motor. Too bad you are never going to see it once it is in. I dug through my parts bin and pulled out the baggie labeled Oil p/u tube and spacer and I threw those in “my parts washer” tubs and cleaned them off with some dawn, clean water and coffee filters since they are cheap and lint free. I went ahead and put the pickup tube spacer on, and then I grabbed my oil pan gasket/windage tray. While I am modeling my thread off of tmcolegr’s awesome build thread, you will notice no bare feet here! Only how fucking poor I am right now and hoping my shoes will last me another couple of weeks -_-



I took a look at it along with most every part I have put on to ensure there was no dust or debris that could get into the motor and cause damage and would you look at that … dust and junk!



One of the many things I distinctly remember from tmcolegr’s build thread is cleanliness is very important as well as check all your parts even new ones so I am being careful with the items I put on there. I wiped off the dirt and lubricated the gasket on both sides of the windage tray. Remember, the convex side faces up (just as it is in the picture). I then proceeded to grab my oil pump pick up tube and lubricated the gasket on that as well and put it into place.





I didn’t torque any of the pickup tube bolts or the spacer bolt as those are in/lbs. as well so I will get those specs when I do that. I then put the pièce de résistance on and turned the shortblock around and looked at it. It is starting to look like a real engine again!!!! Motivation returned!



I did not check pickup tube clearances yet as I didn’t torque anything down but once I do I will highlight the method in doing that as well.

Quote:
  • Oil Pan gasket/Windage Tray - BR3Z-6701-A
  • Oil Pump Pickup Tube & Gasket - BR3Z-6622-A
  • Moroso Race Oil Pan - 20572
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post #37 of 73 Old August 2nd, 2015, 10:33 AM
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Awesome build thread. I know I would be gutted if this happened to me on a Boss. It's looking great and hopefully it'll be back together in no time.

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post #38 of 73 Old August 28th, 2015, 03:05 PM
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FINALLY! WE ARE GETTING SOMEWHERE!

In/lbs and ft/lbs can be found by multiplying or dividing by 12.

(X)ft/lbs x 12 = (X)in/lbs
(X)in/lbs ÷ 12 = (X)ft/lbs

Such as

5ft/lbs x 12 = 60in/lbs

or

60in/lbs ÷ 12 = 5ft/lbs

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post #39 of 73 Old August 28th, 2015, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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FINALLY! WE ARE GETTING SOMEWHERE!

In/lbs and ft/lbs can be found by multiplying or dividing by 12.

(X)ft/lbs x 12 = (X)in/lbs
(X)in/lbs ÷ 12 = (X)ft/lbs

Such as

5ft/lbs x 12 = 60in/lbs

or

60in/lbs ÷ 12 = 5ft/lbs
That was another issue I was having. My lb-ft torque wrench only goes to 24 ft./lbs. and even then it gives me an error message whenever I get that low haha.

Anyway update time!!

So I talked to Tim Eichhorn at MPR Engines in Flordia yesterday and he advised me that they got the billet secondary timing chains in. Finally the last piece that I was waiting for will be here sometime today supposedly *fingers crossed*. I know I am overbuilding the engine as is in hopes that it will not break on me. That being said, I chose to go with the Billet chains over the Ford units due to the Trick Flow Valve springs in the engine having a higher seat pressure than the stock Boss springs (Which for as decent as they are, they really aren't that great of valve springs), couple that with the aftermarket cams and the RPM’s that I will be turning and it seemed like a good choice. All along this engine was built to sustain the high RPM’s that I would see while doing some HPDE days and autocrossing at the expense of low and some mid range power which I am fine with due to the 3.73’s it shouldn’t feel like an absolute pig in those power ranges.

I ran home during lunch and started breaking down the motor as I wanted to start from the beginning in case I forgot something so i tore the block down and took the heads off the block. I started with putting the oil pump pickup tube spacer on followed by the pickup tube and windage tray followed by the oil pan.

Quote:
Parts List
  • Oil Pan gasket/Windage Tray - BR3Z-6701-A
  • Oil Pump Pickup Tube & Gasket - BR3Z-6622-A
  • Moroso Race Oil Pan - 20572

Torque Specs
  • Pickup tube spacer - 17mm - 18 lb-ft
  • Oil Pan pickup tube - 10mm - 89 lb-in + additional 45 degree turn
  • Oil Pan - 10mm - Follow order for tightening oil pan bolts. Torque in 3 steps *NOTE #7 IS A STUD BOLT, NOT JUST A REGULAR OIL PAN BOLT*
  • Stage 1 - 18 lb-in
  • Stage 2 - 89 lb-in
  • Stage 3 - additional 45 degree turn
[/LIST]


I also turned my attention to the oil pump now and torquing down those bolts. The oil pump has some unique steps to it so be sure to follow the torque sequences for each bolt. See the picture for reference.



Quote:
Torque Specs
  • Oil Pump Bolt #1 - 8mm / Oil Pump Stud #2 - 13mm / Oil Pump Bolt #3 8mm / Oil Pump Stud #4 9mm
  • Stage 1 - Hand tighten
  • Stage 2 - Bolt #1 89 lb-in / Stud #2 18 lb-ft / Bolt #3 89 lb-in / Stud #4 177 lb-in
  • Stage 3 - Bolt #1 additional 45 degree turn / Stud 32 additional 75 degree turn / Bolt #3 additional 45 degree turn / Stud #4 additional 60 degree turn
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post #40 of 73 Old August 28th, 2015, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Lariat View Post
Those don't look too bad. Honestly I'm thinking your rod bearing on #7 I believe is the big issue. It looks to me like it has wore through the layers of lead and copper down to the core. I wonder what caused it to spin though.
Oil pressure, or the lack thereof. 5.0's are bad for blowing oil through the PCV system, which was horribly designed. Every 5.0L I've replaced has had a rod knock and fubar'd bearing on #7 , and they're bad for prematurely wearing out the #7 intake valve guide. They'll blow oil right out and you won't know it till its too late. Ford recommends a 7500 mile oil change interval...I tell my customers no more than 5000, and check it every 1K.

Ford20, your heads are done...those groves aren't repairable unless you want to risk using bronze bushings. Second, you may have damaged your crank pulley/balancer when you pulled it off using the outer ring. It's supposed to be removed with a three-jaw puller on the inside, close to the hub. You may have severed the bond between the outer ring and the rubber, which will either cause a vibration or out-of-balance condition, or separate while the engine is running and become a rotating missile.

If there's one mod you do to improve your next engine, install an oil separator in the PCV system.

You've never really built or restored a car until you've crossed at least one state line to chase down a part.


Rescuing a Roush: the story of Buttercup
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