Boss 302 on steroids thread - Page 3 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #41 of 73 Old August 29th, 2015, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairlane_68 View Post
Oil pressure, or the lack thereof. 5.0's are bad for blowing oil through the PCV system, which was horribly designed. Every 5.0L I've replaced has had a rod knock and fubar'd bearing on #7 , and they're bad for prematurely wearing out the #7 intake valve guide. They'll blow oil right out and you won't know it till its too late. Ford recommends a 7500 mile oil change interval...I tell my customers no more than 5000, and check it every 1K.

Ford20, your heads are done...those groves aren't repairable unless you want to risk using bronze bushings. Second, you may have damaged your crank pulley/balancer when you pulled it off using the outer ring. It's supposed to be removed with a three-jaw puller on the inside, close to the hub. You may have severed the bond between the outer ring and the rubber, which will either cause a vibration or out-of-balance condition, or separate while the engine is running and become a rotating missile.

If there's one mod you do to improve your next engine, install an oil separator in the PCV system.
Yeah I put the 3 jaw puller on the inside and grab it by the 3 wings so to speak on the balancer. I turned the jaws both way and it wouldn't fit. Considering I was probably going to replace the crank instead of having it polished, replacing the front cover seal along with the factory balancer, I said fuck it and just pulled the thing off. The heads RGR said he could repair without issue but I figured I would get a new set of heads and let him work in them since there isn't much meat on the Boss heads as is. I went out and got a set of 2015 heads and let him do his thing with them.

I have my peterson oil can that will be going back on the car with -12AN PCV fittings as well. It was on the car when the engine gave up on me but I will probably open it up and clean it out first.
ford20 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #42 of 73 Old August 29th, 2015, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
Well, today was a productive day despite some setbacks from my stupidity. First let me start off by saying that despite what the service manual says, don't put the oil pan on first. That should be the last thing to go on this way you can ensure that the balancer is installed correctly. Thanks to Eric @ JPC Racing for pointing that out to me when I asked a completely unrelated question.

That being said, let's start off.

Yesterday I got the secondary chains from MPR Racing Engines in Florida. I have to say thank you to Tim and Christina for getting these out ASAP for me and letting me know that they received them the second they came in.



Last night I got the rear main seal plate put on the back of the motor. Using Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker. I put a bead of this on the motor .According to the service manual, you put the bead on the motor, not on the retainer plate itself. I don't have a picture of this as it was night and I just wanted to get inside and shut it down for the night but the rear main seal is on.

Note: When putting this on, use a continuos bead of gasket maker and do not move the plate sideways when placing the plate on or as per the manual, you stand a greater chance at having the gasket leak. That would be a giant pain in the ass considering the location of the plate.





Quote:
Parts list
  • Retainer Plate - BR3Z-6K301-A
  • Retainer Plate Bolts - W714962-SXXXXXX (I don't have the last part of the Part number for the bolts.
  • Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker - 51813

Torque Specs
  • Retainer Plate - 10mm - 89lb-in + additional 45 degree turn
  • Follow sequence below

ford20 is offline  
post #43 of 73 Old August 30th, 2015, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
I just want to say, sorry for all of the typos, I am writing this on my Ipad since my laptop broke last January and I don't have the money to go and get a new one just yet. The next thing I did was turn my attention to the heads. As you may know, the Boss heads were no good. They could have been repaired but I felt it was better to pursue a different path with the heads. The problem with the Boss heads is that there really isn't a lot of machining that can really be done to them compared to the GT heads. There just isn't enough meat on the heads where you can do a good head job. Outside of that the Boss heads are very good for stock heads and flow excellently and are capable of creating some very good power numbers as is. That being said, I talked to Steve over at Tasca and he hooked me up with a set of 2015 GT heads and off they went to RGR for their stage 2 head job. Sometimes it is nice to know what kind of product you are getting



Well, in the meantime I bought a whole bunch of FRPP parts to hurry along the build. Some of these parts JUST came out and Steve didn't even have pricing on some of them just yet but they are as follows:



Quote:
  • Coyote Camshaft Drive kit - M-6004-A504 - Includes new Primary and Secondary phasers, Boss 302 Primary tensioners, secondary tensioners, primary chains, secondary chains, oil pump bolts, tensioner pins, tensioner arms, camshaft filters, crank sprocket, tensioner hardware, and camshaft bolts
  • Coyote Engine Harness kit - M-12508-M50 - Supposedly with this kit there is no rewiring needed for switching to the Cobra Jet Intakes and throttle bodies. We will see how well that claim is. That being said you need the following VCT actuators for this kit.
  • 2/27/12 or newer VCT solenoids - BR3Z-6M280-D
  • Coyote engine ignition coil kit - M-12029-M50C
  • Cobra Jet Pulse Ring - M-12A227-CJ13
  • Roller Pilot Bearing - M-7600-B
  • Boss 302R Electric steering rack - M-3200-EPAS
  • Boss 302 Engine Oil Cooler - M-6642-B
  • Lash adjuster assembly - M-6500-M50
  • 5.0L Coyote Roller Finger Follower Kit - M-6465-M50
  • Cobra Jet Air Intake - M-9000-M50CJ
The 2015 heads come bare with just valves, valve springs, and keepers so I also needed to get some roller followers along with the lash adjusters. I had the heads shipped to me and got them all ready to be put in. I have to say they are a work of art IMO. Trick Flow Valve Springs, RGR bronze valve guides Ferrea oversized valves, and a nice port work to the intake and exhaust ports along with some bowl work and a whole slew of things I am probably forgetting.






That being said, there have been people noticing that their Cobra jet Intake Manifolds intake runners were much larger in size than the intake ports are on the heads. That will cause a little bit of loss in power than if the ports were matched in size.So I took some painters tape and grabbed my x-acto knife and traced the intake ports on the manifold and transferred that over to some cardboard. Well would you look at that





Perfect fit! Don't mind me holding the piece on the head, if I had let it go, it would have fallen down the intake port and I really didn't want that to happen.

From this point I wanted to calculate my compression ratio so I needed to know the combustion chamber volume so I grabbed the tools needed (sorry no pictures of this). You need your spark plug as the spark plug takes up a specific volume in the combustion chamber, a piece of plexiglass with a hole cut in the center, some sort of way to measure the liquid going into the Combustion chamber (a syringe works as it has a marked volume on it), some vaseline and some water. The first thing that I did was to level the head so I grabbed a bunch of coffee filters I use to clean parts and folded them up until I got the heads nice and level. What you are doing is taking your water and filling up the combustion chamber with a specified CC's of water. The factory size is 54.5cc's so when you get to this point you take some vaseline and put it around the combustion chamber to seal the chamber off, now take your piece of plexiglass and put it over the combustion chamber. From there you can continue putting water in the combustion chamber. When you start to get to the top of the piece of plexiglass, you stop. Subtract what you have left in the syringe from the volume of the syringe and add up how many times you added water into the combustion chamber ie. if you have a 10ml syringe (although mine was .5ml URGH) and you filled it 5 times and you have 4 ml's of water left in the syringe you have a combustion chamber size of 56 cc's.

Now that I know this I can go ahead and calculate my compression ratio. While there are calculators out there that will do the math for me, I like to do this sort of stuff so I sat down with a pad and pencil and went about calculating the compression ratio myself. While there are a certain number of ways to calculate your compression ratio, I decided use a technique called slicing pi as it seemed the simplest and easiest way to do this.

Bare with me as we are about to embark on a treacherous journey into the world of ...... MATH

When calculating your compression ratio there are 5 variables that we are going to need to find and we are going to need to solve for. In looking at the ways to find your compression ratio I saw this video and it stood out to me as the most detailed and concise way to find your compression ratio. Beware though, it is 20 minutes long but it is very thorough in the explanation. I have also found a love for Jafromobile and his videos now because of this.

http://youtu.be/bWze92nt9OU

Anyway, snap back to reality and math!! Ok, so the variables that we need to solve are as follows:

V1 = Swept volume - Here you are calculating the engine volume based on the bore and stroke of the cylinder.
V2 = Gasket volume
V3 = Piston to deck volume - Here you are calculating the distance between the piston at top dead center and the deck
V4 = Piston volume
V5 = Head combustion chamber volume

Getting my measurements

I know what my bore is based on the proposed measurements brought forth by RGR & JPC. I don't have a dial bore gauge to calculate my actual bore but when I measured it with my dial caliper at the top (I know this is entirely wrong and un scientific but I didn't have the right tools available to me at the time) it measured out 5 times to an average of 3.699 in, so I am confident in their measurements on stroke as well which I know is 3.800.

In order to find the crushed gasket thickness of the gasket I am using I contacted Cometic and asked them for the crushed measurement and they said that it will be .040 as listed on the packaging and all of the crushed thickness' will be listed on the gaskets so my gaskets crushed thickness is .040.

In order to measure my PTD clearance I had to find TDC on the number 1 piston. Out came my dial indicator and stand that I got with the Comp Coyote Camshaft Degree Kit. Unfortunately, I didn't have anyway to securely fasten it to the deck so I had to hold it steady by hand. Not an easy task to do when you are trying to rotate the engine at the same time. Anyway, it ended up taking me about an hour to find TDC and then I spent another 45 minutes making sure that it was true TDC which ended up with me double checking my measurements 8 times. So, I set TDC and grabbed my smallest feeler gauge and went all the way around the entire piston and couldn't get it threw so I knew the gap was at least .004" I checked with Eric over at JPC about this and he said that Rich makes sure he zero decked the engine. Considering I couldn't get a .005 feeler gauge in there nor could I see daylight between th piston and my straight edge I am pretty confident that is the case.

My pistons are a flat top piston with a .70 valve relief cut in them.

Head CC volume using the method outlined above is 57cc's

Shall we get started on the math now?

Now, according to the Hot Rod magazine article listed below the formula for calculating your compression ratio is as follows

Compression Ratio = (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) / (V2+V3+V4+V5)

Calculating Engine Compression - Formulas, Tech - Circle Track

When figuring out the swept volume (displacement in the Hot Rod article), gasket volume, & the piston to deck volume most people will have you follow a formula that looks like this:

(bore/2)^2 x 3.14 (pi) x your variable

Instead of doing that, we are going to be slicing Pi which will divide the circle into 4 equal parts so our equations become MUCH simpler IMO. When we slice pi we come with the number that we multiply everything by .7854

V1

Bore x Bore x Stroke x .7854 = V1
3.700 x 3.700 x 3.800 x .7854 = 40.8580788
V1 = 40.8580788

V2

This one is a little bit tricky. The online calculators seem to use bore of the cylinder rather than the gasket bore size. Using two different measurements will come up with two different compression ratios off by a couple hundredths so I will use the way the online calculators measure gasket volume.

Bore x Bore x compressed gasket thickness x .7854 = V2
3.700 x 3.700 x .040 x .7854 = .43008504
V2 = .43008504

V3

Note: Negative value if the piston protrudes above the deck surface, positive if it is below the deck surface

Bore x Bore x Pistons Distance relative to the deck surface x .7854 = V3
3.700 x 3.700 x .000 x. 7854 = 0
V3 = 0

V4

Because this measurement is in cubic centimeters and we want it to be in cubic inches like the rest of our measurements, we have to multiply this number by .0610237

pistons volume =.70 cc's
.70 x .0610237 = .04271659
V4 = .04271659

V5

Because this measurement is in cubic centimeters and we want it to be in cubic inches like the rest of our measurements, we have to multiply this number by .0610237

Combustion chamber volume = 57 cc's
57 x .0610237 = 3.4783509
V5 = 3.4783509

Now that we have all of our variables, we can go ahead and plug them into our formula above

Compression Ratio = (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) / (V2+V3+V4+V5)
Compression Ratio = (40.8580788+.43008504+0+.04271659+.4783509) / (.43008504+0+.04271659+.4783509)
Compression Ratio = 44.80923133 / 3.95115253
Compression Ratio = 11.3408001816624
Compression Ratio = 11.34:1

From here we can easily find out our displacement. All we have to do is take V1 (our swept volume of a cylinder) and multiply it by how many cylinders the engine has.

Displacement = V1 x number of cylinders
Displacement = 40.8580788 X 8
Displacement = 326.8646304
Displacement = 327 CI ......... rounded up, always looking for that extra inch right fellas haha

I certainly would have liked to go higher on the compression ratio but stock compression works for me for now. This way I can see what the extra cubic inches and full bolt ons will yield with a Coyote and I'm excited to see what it can do. I know that a Coyote with some big cams can make 577 HP on E85 with 318 CI and a similar setup so I am curious what my entirely different cams and stock compression will do with an extra 9 cubic inches. Plus, down the road when the engine needs to be refreshed I can go a little bit stupid and maybe get that 344ci coyote and run a 12:1 compression ratio and hurt some feelings with it MUWHAHAHAHAHA. I think I will leave this one off here for now.
ford20 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #44 of 73 Old August 30th, 2015, 01:01 PM
Hot rod Stang
 
audioAl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Coastal Texas
Posts: 550
 
Garage
iTrader: 0 reviews
Wiley C.

Interesting thread, thanks for the views!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	coyote_rocket_by_mreiof-d5va4sl.jpg
Views:	192
Size:	35.9 KB
ID:	163001  

"Roanstang" 3.7 DOHC Candy Red Metallic 2012 {RIP}
2014 DIB 3.7 w/ select shift/Sold
2016 Coyote Red/Airaid/AEM/SVE X-pipe/UPR catch/BMR cradle lock-out/J&M subframe bushings/
audioAl is offline  
post #45 of 73 Old August 30th, 2015, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
Thanks dude! I hope it's a rocket when it's done!

Back to the fun stuff. After I turned my attention away from math and back on putting parts on the car, I put all of the ARP studs back in. I went down to the bottom of the holes because if I turned them half a turn, they were wobbly as shit and it wasn't something I was confident in. Studs went back in the engine and out came the Cometic head gaskets for a 11-14 Mustang. After lining up the head gaskets on the heads, it looks like everything lined up and is all set. So in case anyone is wondering. 2015 heads fit on the 11-14 block and with 11-14 head gaskets without issues.











Head gaskets got put on the deck and then the heads got put onto the block followed by the ARP washers and ARP nuts. As per ARP instructions I used the ARP assembly lube and put some on the threads of the studs as well as the nuts. It may have been overkill but oh well. I asked around bout the torque procedure at Tim Eichhorn over at MPR Racing Engines told me what he uses for the ARP bolts.

Quote:
Parts List
  • 2015 Heads - FR3Z-6049-A
  • 2015 Heads - FR3Z-6049-B
  • Cometic 94mm Bore MLS .040" Gasket Right - C5286-040
  • Cometic 94mm Bore LMS .040" Gasket Left - C5287-040
  • ARP Head Studs 11-12 Block - 256-4702

Torque Specs
  • Step 1 - Hand tight
  • Step 2 - 30lb-ft - I waited an hour before continuing on
  • Step 3 - 30lb-ft again
  • Step 4 - 50lb-ft
  • Step 5 - 70lb-ft
  • Step 6 - 90lb-ft
  • Step 7 - 110lb-ft
  • Step 8 - Wait an hour and 110lb-ft again
Follow the head stud torquing sequences below for each side

Right Hand



Left Hand

ford20 is offline  
post #46 of 73 Old September 9th, 2015, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
I just wanted to show some of the parts that I am getting along with updating my parts list.

I ordered a couple of non Ford parts and have been getting them in slowly and just stockpiling them until recently.

BMR A-Arm support brace - AAS-001

In talking with Kelly about these he had mentioned that for guys who are going to be drag racing their cars, they wouldn't need this as you aren't exactly putting a lot of stress on the A-Arms. For people who are going to be using their cars for road course or autocross or street driving this would make sense as you are tying the two A-arms together making them stronger and stiffer. There would be less deflection on the A-arms for improved handling.

MPR Racing Engines Billet Lower Crankshaft sprocket



This is made out of billet steel and is FAR stronger than the cast piece that Ford offers. On high boost applications, the factory sprocket has been known to break on cars with superchargers or turbochargers and will destroy your engine. Once this breaks, there is nothing holding the timing chains onto the crankshaft and thus your primary chains will have the potential to skip a bunch of teeth along the sprocket and will throw the timing off.

MPR Racing Engines heavy duty secondary timing chains



The problems with going with aftermarket cams and springs is that you may get a larger lift along with increased duration camshaft that the engineers at Ford never designed the secondary chains for. With these aftermarket cams, most will replace the valve springs that have increased spring pressure and seat pressure which will put some added stress on the secondary chains. For the most part, I think you will be ok to run the factory units but with the added RPM's and extended higher RPM's that the engine would see on a road course, I thought this would have been a good idea. I know I would have kicked myself if the cams broke on me. They feature thicker pins holding the chain links together along with thicker plates.

RGR/JPC Stage 2 heads - 1295

RGR lightweight phaser deletes - 01520



These are going to delete the internals of the VCT phasers which is going to end up saving a lot of rotating mass off of your cams and timing system. While not expressly heavy, you can certainly feel the difference when you hold a stock phaser along with one of these phasers in your hand, especially with the exhaust phasers. If you are locking out the phasers, you might as well go the extra step and get these as well. Anything to gain an edge against your competition right?

RGR custom grind camshafts - ????

Well, these I can't really say much about these as the cam grinds don't belong to me. I will say however that in researching cams for the coyote in N/A form, it seems that the lift, isn't the important part. The thing you want to focus on here is the duration, as this is what is going to be making the most power with these motors. If you think about it, you are only at your maximum lift for a fraction of a second but the longer you have your valves open, the more air and fuel you can get into the combustion chamber as well as the exhaust gases out of the chamber.

Just as a point, it is possible to make cams lope in these cars. These aren't RGR cams, but I just want to point that out but it is too badass not to share haha.


JPC Revised OAP - FDVA00002T

With the over axle pipes you are obviously removing the factory resonators but you are also gaining some power. With these you are going to gain somewhere around 7-15HP and when playing the N/A game, every little bit helps.

JPC Underdrive alternator pulley - 02020



This is a lightweight pulley and I can tell you that when they say lightweight, they mean LIGHTWEIGHT!!! This thing feels like a feather to be honest. Anyway, this replaces the pulley on your alternator which will slow down the alternator and increase the longevity of the alternator. JPC says that they see about a 2-4HP increase with these and on a coyote stock car these would be some BIG numbers when you have to run the same equipment as everyone else. As previously stated on a N/A build, just like with the 3V every little bit counts. You are going to need a bigger belt that is 70 7/8" belt which should be NAPA 25-060703 according to JPC. I haven't had a chance to measure this so once I do, I will confirm.

JPC Black Clutch line upgrade - CLK-B

JPC -12AN PCV fittings - 02017

Recently, Darren (the car in the video above) had been posting asking about some blowby issues and one of the suggestions was to go with larger AN lines from the valvetrain to the catch can so you aren't choking the motor and getting rid of the blow by fast enough. with this in mind, I said **** it. I might as well get these and prevent any future issues. If it works cool, if not, no biggie right? Not to mention, this is MUCH cheaper than going with the 3 vane vacuum pump setup that you would need for road race applications.


The startlite hoses are 45% lighter than similar stainless steel hoses and IIRC they were something like 30g per foot lighter than the AQP Stainless steel hoses that Aeroquip sells. In the spirit of MattD ... weight savings bitch

Phenix Industries -12AN Compression Swivel Hose End Straight - J1200-3

Phenix Industries -12AN 90 degree compression swivel hose - J1290-3

Injector Dynamics ID100 Injectors - ID1000



I know that these are way overkill for my setup but if I ever wanted to go bigger and badder with the car I will be setup injector wise, not to mention I have been talking about getting an actual fuel system for the car so this is once less thing I would have to get when I go down that route.

VMP plug and play 40amp voltage booster -VMPAMPPNP

This makes wiring the voltage booster stupid simple! Just plug everything in and you are all set and I am all about convience here! Comes with everything you see here and is stupid simple.

Ford Racing Cobra Jet Setup

Cobra Jet Cold Air Intake - M-9603-M50CJ
Super Cobra Jet Monoblade throttle body - M-9926-SCJ
Cobra Jet Intake Manifold - M-9424-M50CJ

Kooks Green Catted H-Pipe - 11413610

Since I have to comply with emissions for NYS I decided to go with the Kooks green cats H-Pipe system which will tie into the existing Kooks side pipes I have. As is, the Kooks side pipes make the car ****ing loud as shit and sound amazing so I am really dying to hear how they sound with the long tubes. The important part here is that these are 49 state legal so I should be all good to go with emissions.

ARP Head studs - 256-4702


ARP Harmonic Balancer Bolt Kit - 156-2502

ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit - 156-2801

I think that is everything for now but I am almost positive that I am missing things on this list so once I can find them I will update
this.

---------- Post added at 12:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 PM ----------

I just wanted to show some of the parts that I am getting along with updating my parts list.

I ordered a couple of non Ford parts and have been getting them in slowly and just stockpiling them until recently.

BMR A-Arm support brace - AAS-001

In talking with Kelly about these he had mentioned that for guys who are going to be drag racing their cars, they wouldn't need this as you aren't exactly putting a lot of stress on the A-Arms. For people who are going to be using their cars for road course or autocross or street driving this would make sense as you are tying the two A-arms together making them stronger and stiffer. There would be less deflection on the A-arms for improved handling.

MPR Racing Engines Billet Lower Crankshaft sprocket



This is made out of billet steel and is FAR stronger than the cast piece that Ford offers. On high boost applications, the factory sprocket has been known to break on cars with superchargers or turbochargers and will destroy your engine. Once this breaks, there is nothing holding the timing chains onto the crankshaft and thus your primary chains will have the potential to skip a bunch of teeth along the sprocket and will throw the timing off.

MPR Racing Engines heavy duty secondary timing chains



The problems with going with aftermarket cams and springs is that you may get a larger lift along with increased duration camshaft that the engineers at Ford never designed the secondary chains for. With these aftermarket cams, most will replace the valve springs that have increased spring pressure and seat pressure which will put some added stress on the secondary chains. For the most part, I think you will be ok to run the factory units but with the added RPM's and extended higher RPM's that the engine would see on a road course, I thought this would have been a good idea. I know I would have kicked myself if the cams broke on me. They feature thicker pins holding the chain links together along with thicker plates.

RGR/JPC Stage 2 heads - 1295

RGR lightweight phaser deletes - 01520



These are going to delete the internals of the VCT phasers which is going to end up saving a lot of rotating mass off of your cams and timing system. While not expressly heavy, you can certainly feel the difference when you hold a stock phaser along with one of these phasers in your hand, especially with the exhaust phasers. If you are locking out the phasers, you might as well go the extra step and get these as well. Anything to gain an edge against your competition right?

RGR custom grind camshafts - ????

Well, these I can't really say much about these as the cam grinds don't belong to me. I will say however that in researching cams for the coyote in N/A form, it seems that the lift, isn't the important part. The thing you want to focus on here is the duration, as this is what is going to be making the most power with these motors. If you think about it, you are only at your maximum lift for a fraction of a second but the longer you have your valves open, the more air and fuel you can get into the combustion chamber as well as the exhaust gases out of the chamber.

Just as a point, it is possible to make cams lope in these cars. These aren't RGR cams, but I just want to point that out but it is too badass not to share haha.


JPC Revised OAP - FDVA00002T

With the over axle pipes you are obviously removing the factory resonators but you are also gaining some power. With these you are going to gain somewhere around 7-15HP and when playing the N/A game, every little bit helps.

JPC Underdrive alternator pulley - 02020



This is a lightweight pulley and I can tell you that when they say lightweight, they mean LIGHTWEIGHT!!! This thing feels like a feather to be honest. Anyway, this replaces the pulley on your alternator which will slow down the alternator and increase the longevity of the alternator. JPC says that they see about a 2-4HP increase with these and on a coyote stock car these would be some BIG numbers when you have to run the same equipment as everyone else. As previously stated on a N/A build, just like with the 3V every little bit counts. You are going to need a bigger belt that is 70 7/8" belt which should be NAPA 25-060703 according to JPC. I haven't had a chance to measure this so once I do, I will confirm.

JPC Black Clutch line upgrade - CLK-B

JPC -12AN PCV fittings - 02017

Recently, Darren (the car in the video above) had been posting asking about some blowby issues and one of the suggestions was to go with larger AN lines from the valvetrain to the catch can so you aren't choking the motor and getting rid of the blow by fast enough. with this in mind, I said **** it. I might as well get these and prevent any future issues. If it works cool, if not, no biggie right? Not to mention, this is MUCH cheaper than going with the 3 vane vacuum pump setup that you would need for road race applications.


The startlite hoses are 45% lighter than similar stainless steel hoses and IIRC they were something like 30g per foot lighter than the AQP Stainless steel hoses that Aeroquip sells. In the spirit of MattD ... weight savings bitch

Phenix Industries -12AN Compression Swivel Hose End Straight - J1200-3

Phenix Industries -12AN 90 degree compression swivel hose - J1290-3

Injector Dynamics ID100 Injectors - ID1000



I know that these are way overkill for my setup but if I ever wanted to go bigger and badder with the car I will be setup injector wise, not to mention I have been talking about getting an actual fuel system for the car so this is once less thing I would have to get when I go down that route.

VMP plug and play 40amp voltage booster -VMPAMPPNP

This makes wiring the voltage booster stupid simple! Just plug everything in and you are all set and I am all about convience here! Comes with everything you see here and is stupid simple.

Ford Racing Cobra Jet Setup

Cobra Jet Cold Air Intake - M-9603-M50CJ
Super Cobra Jet Monoblade throttle body - M-9926-SCJ
Cobra Jet Intake Manifold - M-9424-M50CJ

Kooks Green Catted H-Pipe - 11413610

Since I have to comply with emissions for NYS I decided to go with the Kooks green cats H-Pipe system which will tie into the existing Kooks side pipes I have. As is, the Kooks side pipes make the car ****ing loud as shit and sound amazing so I am really dying to hear how they sound with the long tubes. The important part here is that these are 49 state legal so I should be all good to go with emissions.

ARP Head studs - 256-4702


ARP Harmonic Balancer Bolt Kit - 156-2502

ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit - 156-2801

I think that is everything for now but I am almost positive that I am missing things on this list so once I can find them I will update
this.
ford20 is offline  
post #47 of 73 Old September 12th, 2015, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
I just went ahead kept my attenion on the heads. As I said eariler, the heads come bare without followers of lash adjuters. In pricing them out, I found it cheaper to go with the newly released FRPP kits rather than buy them separately. So I went ahead and grabbed the boxes for my parts pile.

I started with the lash adjusters and put a very small amount of Comp assembly lube #103 on the lash adjuster and plopped them in their respective holes.









Next thing was to grab the followers and get those into place. They are pretty easy to install, just roll them on the lash adjusters until you hear them click. Before you put them on, always remember to clean your parts even if they are brand new. As you can see here, these are straight out of the box and they are dirty.



Followers are in now.





Quote:
Parts List
  • Comp Cams Assembly Lube #103 - CCA-103
  • Lash adjuster assembly - M-6500-M50
  • 5.0L Coyote Roller Finger Follower Kit - M-6465-M50


---------- Post added at 04:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:15 PM ----------

Now that I have the heads on and assembled I turned my attention towards the RGR lockouts. Now, I know there is a huge amount of what the hell are you doing when it comes to going with lockouts versus going with limiters but in talking with JPC, they didn't feel that I would be losing a lot of power with them and I could lock the cams in for higher RPM power on the race track. I have trusted them this far and I think performing as well as they do shows what they they know. Me being a complete noob at this, I have 120% faith in them on the decision. Plus they look pretty cool.

So, I grabbed the phasers out of the FRPP timing kit and went to work on them. First thing I did was mark my right & left timing marks with a magic marker. White out or scribing them probably would have been the easier and better thing to do but as long as you can mark them, thats all that matters. I found it easier to take the snap ring off first and then take the torx bolts off but don't take the last bolt out all of the way, only a couple of threads and then place it on a flat surface.



From there you can now take the last bolt off all of the way from the housing, and take off both plates.





The next thing to do would be to remove the plastic piece along with the spring



From there you want to dispose of the "guts" of the phaser. You might want to grab a towel or a plastic bag and put it over the phaser and seperate the bottom part with the middle section and let the internals come out.



Now you can put the phasers on. For your exhaust phaser, you take the middle section and the bigger delete plate and put those together to make the exhaust phasers. For the intake phasers, you grab the back plate and the small delete plate and put those together.





From here, you can now begin to put the cams in.

Quote:
Parts List
  • RGR Lightweight Phaser Deletes
ford20 is offline  
post #48 of 73 Old September 12th, 2015, 05:09 PM
You had one job!
 
TCStang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Under a rock
Posts: 9,138
               
iTrader: 0 reviews
Looks like your moving along nicely. When do you think you will have it completely assembled?

1968 Coupe- Sold
2007 Premium GT- Sold
2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

MY CO BUILD
TCStang is offline  
post #49 of 73 Old September 12th, 2015, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
The next thing on the list was to put the cams in. First things first, make sure you have new cam filters and make sure that you have new cam bolts as these are TTY bolts and you might not realize that. Now that we have that out of the way, we can go ahead and start with our cams. Make sure that you have them correct. The comp cams are labled RI, RE, LI & LE right on the boxes so it is pretty easy to identify which is which.

I just want to take the time to say that I have heard a couple of times that the aftermarket cams are no gun barrel drilled like the factory or CJ cams are. I'm not sure what that means but it appears that my cams are driled out in the center. I don't know if this is what is meant by that or not, but I figured I would throw that out there.



When you put the cams in you want to make sure that they are in the nutral position with the D hole in the following positions.

Left side



Right side



From there you can put the new cam filters in, but remember to clean out the bores of them so they are nice and clean. This is a picture before I cleaned them. As you can see it is slightly dirty haha.



Cam bolts get torqued down now once you have both cams in the heads. Don't forget to put the Comp Assembly lube on the cam journals and cam caps.



This is the torque sequence for both left and right heads.



Quote:
Parts list
  • JPC Racing Custom grind cams - ????
  • Coyote Camshaft Drive kit - M-6004-A504 (Cam Filters)
  • N806183-S437 - Cam Cap Bolts ( You need 40 of these)- 10mm

[Torque Specs]
  • Step 1 - 53lb-in
  • Step 2 - additional 45 degrees
This is where I fucked up. I snapped 2 bolts because I was looking at the torque specs for the head bolts, not the cam cap bolts so make sure you follow the specs listed and don't do something tupid like I did. I bothered Eric over at JPC about it when I realised my mistake so thank you to him for tolerating my stupidity.

---------- Post added at 06:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:06 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCStang View Post
Looks like your moving along nicely. When do you think you will have it completely assembled?
My registration is expired at the end of this month and so is my inspection so I have to get it inspected before i can re register it so the engine has to be in the car and running by the end of the month so come hell or high water it has to be done by then.
ford20 is offline  
post #50 of 73 Old September 12th, 2015, 07:03 PM
Enthusiast
 
utm18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: BUCKEYE NATION
Posts: 557
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Great attention to detail CHU. Looks good so far.
utm18 is offline  
post #51 of 73 Old September 12th, 2015, 08:20 PM
Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: YOUNGSTOWN, OH
Posts: 55
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
ThaT is awesome!

PI Swapped, Full Bolt Ons, NX Wet Plate Kit, NT05R DR's, UPR rear suspension, Steeda sfc, aje k member, Strange 10 Way Rears, Lakewood 90/10 Fronts, Brenspeed Tuner, Battery Relocation, T56 Magnum
98GT642 is offline  
post #52 of 73 Old September 14th, 2015, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by utm18 View Post
Great attention to detail CHU. Looks good so far.
Hahaha yes, so far is the key word there! What happened with everyone? They sort of dissapered from the Clan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GT642 View Post
ThaT is awesome!
Thanks man!

---------- Post added at 08:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 PM ----------

I wanted to go ahead and take a break from the top end and get the little things out of the way that the service manual says to do.

So, I went ahead and grabbed my oil filter adapter with new gasket already installed and the three bolts and torqued them down. I went ahead and grabbed my new Boss oil cooler out of the box and went ahead and installed that as well.



Quote:
Parts List
  • Oil Filter adapter bolt x2 - 10mm - W714974 (Sorry, I don't have the last digits on this one right now)
  • Oil Filter adapter bolt x1 - 10mm - W503306 (Sorry, I don't have the last digits on this one right now)
  • Ford Racing Boss 302 oil cooler - 14mm allen key - M-6642-MB

Torque Specs
  • Step 1 - 177lb-in
  • Step 2 - Additional 60 degree turn
  • Step 3 - Put oil cooler threaded fitting in and tighten to 43 lb-ft


Next thing I did was grab the crankshaft position sensor and put that into place. This appears to be the revised one with the new O-ring installed that was addressed by the TSB.


NOTICE: The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor must be positioned into the fitting on the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate and be flush against the boss on the engine block before the bolt is installed. If the CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor is installed incorrectly, the CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor can be damaged.







Quote:
Parts List
  • Crankshaft Position Sensor - 8mm - DY-1293 (Comes with a new bolt)

Torque Specs
  • 89 lb-in


I went back to the top of the motor and grabbed the new knock sensors and went ahead and put those in as well. These point towards the rear of the engine.







Quote:
Parts List
  • Knock Sensors - x 2 AL3Z-12A699-BA
  • Knock Sensor Bolts - x 2 - W500110-S437

Torque Specs
  • 177lb-in
ford20 is offline  
post #53 of 73 Old September 14th, 2015, 10:21 PM
Still slow.
 
1996 GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 8,738
                   
iTrader: 1 reviews
I love reading this build. Look awesome, keep it up!
1996 GT is offline  
post #54 of 73 Old September 15th, 2015, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
Thanks man, I am actually up to degreeing the cams, I just never have acess to a computer or else I would have updated it even further.
ford20 is offline  
post #55 of 73 Old September 28th, 2015, 05:58 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Columbus
Posts: 33
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
its gonna be sick man!
craigh4575 is offline  
post #56 of 73 Old September 30th, 2015, 12:33 PM
Bo Baustin
 
Austin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: CO
Posts: 13,015
                     
Garage
iTrader: 1 reviews
Great build Sean.

I think it should run pretty well, your attention to detail looks good from my end.
Austin is offline  
post #57 of 73 Old September 30th, 2015, 07:56 PM
Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 54
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
That looks sick, hope everything goes well
JJrocks44 is offline  
post #58 of 73 Old December 1st, 2015, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
Hi I'm Sean
 
ford20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 3,962
         
iTrader: 1 reviews
I guess I will just make this my general build thread from here on out. As I said before, I think that I can break just about anything. When I went to go put on my blowfish tow hook I ended up breaking one of the bolts from the Laguna Seca bracket while taking it off the car. It looks like someone replaced it at one point since I only had 3 out of 4 bolts installed and the 3rd bolt that I broke was a different kind of bolt all together.



If you look at the bolt heads, you will see that 2 of them are painted that brown primer color while the broken one isn't and even the bolt itself is different. I'm not sure if that is by design but it looks like the bracket was replaced at one point.

The install is pretty straight forward, you basically center the bracket up and line them up in the recesses in the bumper bar and you can bolt the two halves together.



Since I have a 2012 I had to use the supplied spacer along with the longer carriage bolts.



Oh, and I ended up braking a bolt from the blowfish hardware -_-



I sent a message to Steve and within like 4 minutes he sent me a message and we talked about and said he was going to send new hardware out on Monday. I got the in hardware in a couple of days and I was back in business. He even sent me two new bolts and inserts for the top of the mount which was very nice. The customer service from my side of things is absolutely excellent with Steve, I would HIGHLY recommend the blowfish bracket. It appears to be very well constructed and the hardware seems to be of pretty good quality (despite me breaking one) and the powder coating on this is very nice! I bolted everything up and used Blue Loctite #242 on all of the bolts for a little bit of extra security.

On the 2010-2012 with the Boss 302 front valance you have to cut a hole in it so that the tow hook assembly can fit through the bumper. It is pretty easy though so no big deal here.



Quote:
Parts Used
While I had the bumper off I figured I would take the old turn signals out and put some new blackout ones in which was a pretty simple mod. Just remove these two plastic nuts, pop the old one out and put the nuts back on.



Old vs. New



Finished product



Quote:
Parts used
ford20 is offline  
post #59 of 73 Old December 1st, 2015, 04:07 PM
You had one job!
 
TCStang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Under a rock
Posts: 9,138
               
iTrader: 0 reviews
When are you going to have it on the road again?

1968 Coupe- Sold
2007 Premium GT- Sold
2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

MY CO BUILD
TCStang is offline  
post #60 of 73 Old December 1st, 2015, 04:56 PM
Regular
 
01KenneBellGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Iowa
Posts: 133
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
That gonna be a wicked ride man!
01KenneBellGT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Forums at Modded Mustangs forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome