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post #1 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Boss 302 on steroids thread

So what is faster than a coyote? A Road Runner! Now what happens when Wile E. Coyote gets his hands on one of these puppies?

This happens ….



I think we all know what comes next here. So I got an engine hoist and started with taking the engine out of the bay. Mind you I am very much a greenhorn who has never done this stuff before so I plan on keeping a detailed account of what I did so hopefully people will be able to reference my stupidity and learn what not to do, but mostly so that I have a reference of everything that I did if I ever need to look back and figure it out what I did wrong. That being said, safety first! At pretty much all times I had my 3 ton jack, jack stands, engine ramps and wheel chocks under the car just in case one of them failed and it sort of caused a chain reaction. It might be way over kill but I didn’t really like the idea of a Ford casting number imprinted onto my forehead for quite some time.

First, I started by removing the stock air box and the air scoop that attaches to it. The little snorkle is a giant pain to remove due to the fact that it is secured from the very top and the very bottom and in order to get it out you have to push in on both sides at once. I ended up using a flat head on top and a plastic fastner remover on the bottom and a lot of elbow grease. After that I drained the coolant from the radiator. Now the petcock is under the access tray and because I have a Laguna Seca I also have to deal with my front splitter covering that access tray, so there are 4 screws that attach the splitter to the bolt holes for the tray. In order to remove the under tray you have to remove the bolts red. I ended up trying to remove the all of the bolts and after removing that last one in red the tray just sort of fell out and almost wacked me in the face.


From there it is pretty self explanatory. You remove the upper and lower hoses from the radiator to the engine, the 3 hoses that connect to the degas bottle, and the coolant lines into the heads. Because this is a Boss 302 (this also applies to track pack cars) I have the oil cooler which uses the anti-freeze to try and keep the oil cool. There are two hoses that extend out from the lower radiator hose that connect to eh oil cooler. I removed those two and left them connected to the oil cooler. After that I disconnected the electric fan from the radiator and pulled it out to give me a little bit more room. After that I took off the underhood covering and removed the two lines that connect the windshield washer squirters to the windshield washer bottle this way I can take off the hood and pull the engine out that way. At the end of the day I was left with this.



Next step after that was to remove my intake manifold. The procedure is basically the same for the Boss 302 and for the Stock intake manifold. The intake manifold comes off and from there I started out from under the car. First we removed the A/C Condenser and pushed it off to the side and out of the way. You can go ahead and just cut the A/C belt as you won’t need it. After that I removed the starter. There is one bolt on the top of the starter that is slightly hard to get to so what I ended up doing is getting it a couple of extensions and getting at it from the front of the engine. Don't forget about the ground strap since it is a bit of a pain in the ass when you have the engine lifted up in the air. Speaking about ground straps, there is one that is attached to the drivers side head and the cowl that needs to be removed as well. Just take off the two plastic screws, lift the cowl and unscrew it. After that we decided to take the alternator off the block. I was having a really hard time getting the connector to come off of it while it was on the engine so since I would have to take it off anyway I decided that I might as well do it then and there. The alternator came off and I went inside the car and unbloted the 2 nuts for the steering shaft boot behind the pedals and proceeded under the car to remove the bolt at the U-joint of the steering knuckle. Be sure you just mark it real quick this way you know the orientation in which it has to go back together. I pulled it in a little bit and laid it off to the side.
After that I tackled removing the nuts to separate the cats from the exhaust manifolds. As luck would have it I was able to get 3 of the 4 nuts off and ended up rounding off the 4th nut. That wasn’t too big of a deal for me since I just grabbed a sawzall and cut the ball clamp after the cat and pulled on the clamp until I was able to remove it. From there I unbloted the motor mounts from the frame. Contrary to what the workshop manual says you don’t need to remove the engine support insulator brackets. From there I was in the home stretch and started removing all of the electrical connectors that were left on there. There are two bolts at the very front of the engine just below the oil pan that are holding a wiring loom on so you just have to unbolt those. In retrospect the hardest ones were the front O2 sensors and wiring connectors that pin to the bottom of the oil pan. If I had to do it again I would just unscrew the O2 sensors from the bungs and leave them sort of hanging on the top of the bellhousing. The pins that connect to the oil pan I would think you would be able to take off when you start jacking the engine up which would give you a little bit more room to get under there and pull them out. There are 2 on the passenger side and 1 on the drivers side that has to be removed. BTW I would highly advise having a plastic fastner remover for this job. It came in handy a lot of uses times and you don’t damage the Christmas tree pins when you take them out with this. After that it was time to remove the hood. So I took out the screws and laid it down on the lawn for the time being. Once I got everything out of the way I removed all the bellhousing bolts and we were separated from the transmission …. Sort of. I will get back to that in a minute. I hooked up my load leveling bar and the engine hoist to the top two bellhousing threads and to the very front two threads at the engine sort of like this.


It took another 2 hours to actually separate the engine from the transmission. I put my jack under the bellhousing and from there it was a long process of jacking up the engine and then slowly lowering it and jacking it up again and lowering it again and jacking it up again and lowering it again (you get the idea) until I was able to have enough daylight to get the very tip of a flathead between the bellhousing and the dust plate. After many back and forth sessions and lots of shaking and banging wedges into the opening it was finally free and we were clear to start taking it out of the engine bay. Now because I still had the cat still attached I had to jack it up and tilt it all the way back but it is certainly very doable if anyone should ever need to do it. When you are pulling the engine out just be careful not to hit the radiator. I’m sure that would ruin your day lol.



There it sat for about a day or so until I was able to get it bolted up to the engine stand.

Obligatory empty engine bay shot.





************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ******


Quote:
  • 2013 GT500 Cooling Fan – Part# M-8C607-MSVT
  • Aeroforce Interceptor Single Gauge – Part# CN101
  • Aeroforce Black Bezel –Part# AF-BEZEL-BLACK
  • Aeroforce Black Boss 302 Gauge Face – Part# AF-LOGO-BOSS302
  • Aeroforce 5V regulator kit – Part# AF-SENS010
  • BMR K-Member - Part #KM018
  • BMR Tubular A-Arms – Part # AA021
  • BMR Radiator Support – Part # RS003
  • Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 7/8ths – Part# 11412400 Supersedes Part #60-41-188
  • McLeod RST Clutch with Lightweight Steel flywheel Package – JPC Racing Part # 1124
  • Moroso Race Oil Pan – Part # 20572
  • Oil Pan Gasket – Part# BR3Z-6710-A
  • Oil Pickup Tube – Part# BR3Z-6622-A
  • Oil Pump – Part# BR3Z-6600-A
  • Roush Vent Pod – Part# 404470
  • TSS Billet Oil Pump Gears – JPC Racing Part # 1760 (It may be the same as TSS’s but I couldn’t find a part number on their website)

Last edited by ford20; December 26th, 2014 at 11:02 PM.
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post #2 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 08:37 AM
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Needless to say, I would be sick if I blew up my 2012 Boss. (if I could afford one, damnit college). Goodluck with the rebuild. Going bigger and better?
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post #3 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 09:08 AM
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Exactly how did you grenade the motor? Any upgrades on the new motor when it goes back in?

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post #4 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Green_6er View Post
Needless to say, I would be sick if I blew up my 2012 Boss. (if I could afford one, damnit college). Goodluck with the rebuild. Going bigger and better?
Yeah I was certainly none too happy about it but it does afford me the perfect opportunity and excuse to go bigger haha. I got out of college 3 years ago so I am not too far ahead of you.

That being said, yes the plan is to go with a 3.700 bore block and build it for some nice N/A power and try and hit over 500 at the wheels. Dyno racing I know but I don't really plan to take it to the drag strip very often.

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Exactly how did you grenade the motor? Any upgrades on the new motor when it goes back in?
My theory right now is Wile E Coyote done did it. I honestly don't know as of yet. I just pulled the oil pan off last night wand the oil was looking sort of grey. Maybe a spun bearing but I have no idea right now.
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post #5 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 12:44 PM
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LOL AT NAME CHANGE! HAHAHAH!

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How did this gorilla stuff even get started in a thread about me taking it hard in the ass?
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post #6 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 02:27 PM
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Acme Engine Destructo.

Lol.
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post #7 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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LOL AT NAME CHANGE! HAHAHAH!
Or has the name stayed the same the entire time
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post #8 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 09:07 PM
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Hell, I was joking about the name.

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If Marc's car was a woman, she would be in short skirt and a G string and he would tell her to bend over whenever people walked by.
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post #9 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 09:09 PM
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This thread makes me laugh and sad for that motor at the same time. So, was this thing in warranty at all when it popped? I mean, I still think I even have powertrain left.

2009 Chevrolet Corvette
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post #10 of 73 Old October 30th, 2014, 09:47 PM
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It is a pre production car. When those are sold, it as-is, no warranties at all.

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If Marc's car was a woman, she would be in short skirt and a G string and he would tell her to bend over whenever people walked by.
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post #11 of 73 Old November 15th, 2014, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Now that the engine was out of the car it was time to bolt it up to the stand. I removed the flywheel, clutch assembly, and pulse ring so that I can bolt it to the engine stand. Upon doing so, I noticed that it looks like I didn’t have the revised o-ring around the crankshaft position sensor like I was told since it appears I have the stock orange o-ring. At least this confirmed my suspicions about possibly having a bad crankshaft position sensor after I performed a quick test.



As a quick aside, I know that for the Boss 302 this should tell you if the CKP is bad or not. I’m not sure if it is the same for the GT’s but I would imagine that it would still hold true. I am 95% sure that this is the way you do this but I will look around a bit more and see if I can’t find the thread and update the post in case I am wrong. Drive the car for about 15 or 20 minutes in 4th gear with the RPM’s between 4,000-4,250 and the check engine should come on and flashing. If this happens, than everytime the solution has been to replace the CKP. This is normally a problem for the 2012’s as they revised and udated the wiring harness for the 2013’s. It seems that the wiring prongs act as tuning forks almost and vibrate themselves to death on a road course in a matter of 15 hours or so.
Quote:
  • Pressure Plate/Clutch Assembly – 9 x 13mm
  • Flywheel – 8 x 19mm
Once I got everything removed I was able to bolt the engine onto the stand and remove the hoist from the garage. From there I pulled the motor mounts off followed by the valve covers to see if there was any carnage in the valvetrain. I couldn’t really find anything outside of some metal shavings on the shaft of the uhhhh camshaft as well as some odd wearing on two of the LH intake cam lobes. Outside of that everything else looks ok by my eyes (ie. No giant chunks of shit missing or gouged).




From there I turned my focus onto the oil pan. I removed the oil pan and separated it from the windage tray (I just grabbed my plastic fastner removal tool and used that to separate the oil pan and windage tray this way I could remove the pan, then unbolt the pickup tube and take off the windage tray). Upon doing so it looked like someone poured silver metallic paint into the oil pan and mixed in a tiny bit of oil in there. After looking at it a bit further, the oil has a bit of a milk shake look to it but maybe I am wrong here so maybe someone more knowledgeable than I can say the oil looks a bit odd like a head gasket leak. So far it has only looked like this when I took off the oil pan so maybe that had something to do with it, but either way I think I can repaint my Vapor Silver V6 with what is in the bottom of the oil pan haha.










Quote:
  • Valve Covers - 14 each side (28 total) x 10mm
  • Oil Pan/Windage Tray –16 x 10mm & 3 x 13mm
  • Oil pickup tube bolts – 3 x 10mm
  • Oil Pickup tube spacer – 1 x 17mm
From there it was just a matter of taking everything apart to see if I can figure out where all of this metal was coming from. I started by removing as much as I could off of the block before opening up the front cover.
Quote:
  • A/C compressor – 3 x 13mm
  • Alternator – 2 x 15mm & 1 nut x 13mm
  • Camshaft Position Sensors – 4 x 8mm black=intake; grey=exhaust
  • Cowl Ground Strap -1 x 10mm
  • Crankshaft Position Sensor – 1 x 8mm
  • Crankshaft Pulley Bolt – 1 x 17mm
  • Exhaust Manifold nuts – 16 x 15mm
  • Exhaust Studs – 16 x 6mm
  • Knock Sensors – 2 x 10mm (1 per sensor)
  • Idler Pulley – 1 x 13mm
  • Tensioner Pulley – 1 x 13mm
  • Thermostat Housing -2 x 8mm
  • Water Pump Bolts – 4 x 10mm
  • Water Pump Pulley Bolts – 4 x 10mm
Just a little note for the Newbies that haven’t done anything like this before (such as me), if you haven’t taken off a water pump before you can grab a hammer and lightly tap the snout to help loosen it up and you should be able to wrestle it out once you can get it to wiggle a little bit. I folded up a rag a couple of times as not to damage the water pump and gave it a little tappy tap tap like in Happy Gilmore.

I have to give a big thank you to Tad over at Freedom Racing! I went out and bought a 3 jaw puller to remove the crankshaft pulley. Well, I put it together and the bolts weren’t really long enough for the nuts to get a good grab on them so the second I put some pressure on it to remove the pulley, the ****ing thing exploded and I mean exploded. I think I still have an imprint mark on my forehead from one of the projectiles (nuts and bolts and stuff) hitting my head. I think a squirrel that was watching me work got knocked off the rafter of the garage, cursed at me for being cheap and scurried away. Anyway, I sent him a PM Sunday afternoon about getting me a new 3 jaw puller. I got a PM from him shortly after that saying that he would head down to the office and check for me how soon I could get one. Sunday night he PM’d me back and I ordered it and I had it on my doorstep Tuesday Morning. If you need any Ford Specific Tools I would HIGHLY recommend giving him a shout. This isn’t my first dealing with Tad and every time I have spoken with him or bought something from him you would get excellent service. Automotive Specialty Tools

Anyway, if you have never used a 3 jaw puller on a crankshaft pulley before it is pretty straight forward. There are 3 jaws that connect to either the 3 inside prongs of the pulley or along the outside of the pulley. I grabbed a 1” reducer and put it into the threaded insert for the crank pulley bolt and started cranking. Once it got to a certain point the crank pulley popped right off. It’s nice when you have the right tools to do the job for once haha. Anyway, it looked a little something like this.



---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 PM ----------

At this point it was time to start breaking into the engine and seeing what is going on in there. So I started removing the front cover. I took the RTV off by hand and grabbed the front cover at the top and pulled it off. Off comes the front cover and I started working on removing the timing chains.



I started with the LH side. First you rotate the crank until the keyway is at the 12 o’clock position and all 4 data matrix’s on the cams are facing up. From there you can remove the tensioner. Remember that the tensioner is still under pressure so unless you are holding it up or propping it up somehow it will probably fly off somewhere. When I removed the tensioner I found little bits of metal on the plunger (I guess that is what you would call it) as well as the timing chain guides.


Keyway at the 12 O’clock position

Data Matrix on the top of the camshafts. All 4 have to be facing up. If they all aren’t facing up turn the crankshaft until the keyway is at the 12 o’clock position and all 4 are facing up.
From there you can remove the tensioner arms. You might have to rotate the crankshaft to release a little bit more tension in the chain so you can remove the timing chain guides. After that remove the 6 screws holding the phasers on and you can slide the phasers forward 2 inches. Make sure you depress the secondary tensioner and rotate it 90 degrees this way you can remove the phasers.



After that you can remove the secondary chain. That being said, I completely forgot to look for the timing mark on the LH side so I have no idea where it was which is bugging me. Anyway, when I looked at the timing chain on the RH side I noticed that it looks like the marks don’t line up. From best I can tell the dark link is supposed to be lined up with the indentation on the phaser. Can someone confirm if this is true or not?



The procedure is basically the same for removing the RH timing chains except this time you turn the keyway to the 9 o’clock position. After the primary and secondary timing chains are removed, I slid off the crank sprocket followed by the oil pump. Then I went back up top and started removing the cams. The workshop manual is very clear about this since they say it a couple of times and have it written in bold. You have to remove the front camshaft bearing mega cap first or else you could damage the engine. Considering how good I am at damaging the engine just by starting and driving it I figured if I didn’t do this first I would end up cracking it in half somehow so what the hell. After that I slowly started loosening the bolts for the rest of the cam caps following the torqueing sequence this way I could remove whatever spring pressure was on the cams evenly. After removing the front mega cap I found some pretty bad scoring on the cam journals and once again I found some pretty big metal flakes on the camshafts. After removing all the cam caps I was able to pull the cams out and found scoring on almost all 32 journals. They are deep enough where you can feel them through the glove and your fingernail catches on them. I’m not certain how bad that is but that will be addressed later after talking to some people about the build plans. Anyway, onto more pictures.

Some pictures of the metal pieces on the cams:









That being said when I cleaned off the cams and I saw this on all 4 cams. I am assuming that these marks are normal since they all have it but I just want to make sure that is the case. I also left the filters for the cams in there.





After that I removed the crankshaft position sensor and the cylinder head temperature sensor. I cleaned up the heads a little bit and took the picture-o-shinyness



Well you are all caught up at this point. This weekend I would like to finally remove the oil cooler and open up the oil pump and see if anything is cracked in there or not. I just have to find a 13-16mm Allen Key so I can try and take off the oil cooler and I will be in business again and hopefully tear the engine down a lot more.

Quote:
  • Cam Cap Bolts – 20 each side (40 total) x 10mm
  • Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor – 1 x ¾”
  • Front Cover – 8 x 10mm / 7 x 13mm
  • Oil Pump – 2 x 8mm / 1 x 9mm / 1 x 13mm
  • Phasers – 3 per phaser (12 total) x 10mm
  • Timing chain Guides – 1 each side (2 total) x 10mm
  • Timing Chain Tensioners – 2 each side(4 total) x 10mm
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post #12 of 73 Old November 16th, 2014, 09:24 AM
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So......... again HOW did this happen? That is some jacked up oil in that there pan.... WOW. You have some work cut out for ya

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post #13 of 73 Old November 16th, 2014, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Uhhhh magical pixie dust caused the failure. I still haven't found the root cause but I have had a pretty good idea from the beginning and I only have one or 2 areas to look for the damage.
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post #14 of 73 Old November 16th, 2014, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Today was a productive day all things considering. First I started off with removing the heads. It was a fairly simple process, nothing really all that major to report there. Upon first inspection I didn’t see any signs of a head gasket leak, nor did I see anything that would indicate detonation. Just a whole lot of carbon buildup for 18,000 miles, well at least in my opinion.

Here is the LH side Heads along with a close up of the piston heads.






Here is the RH side heads along with a close up of each pistons.







After I pulled the heads off it was time to go ahead and take out the pistons. I turned the engine upside down and started getting to work on the pistons. Upon removing the 1st piston the bearings sort of stayed on the crankshaft. By the end of it 5 out of 8 pistons had the bearings stay on the crankshaft while the others came out with the pistons caps. Now, I am not 100% certain if that is indicative of spun bearing but I figured I would at least mention it in case that would be a sign of a spun bearing. All of the piston caps had some scoring marks on them with what looks like a hot spot while some of the piston bearings had some marks on them. Anyway, onto the pictures. There are a lot of them so my apologies in advanced.

#1






#2







#3







#4






The bearings on number 4 looked like it had the little tabs worn down a little bit and the stamped part numbers on the bearings seemed to be a little bit worn down.

#5







#6






You can sort of see it in the picture but it looks like some of the metal found in the engine came from #6 due to the fresh scoring on the lower part of it

#7








The bearings on #7 were completely destroyed! It was out of round, the edges were ground down to an point basically. The little tabs were worn down to almost nothing and the stamped markings on the back were completely worn away. It is sort of hard to see in the last picture but you can almost see where those tabs are on the bearing and they are almost completely gone.

#8







Outside of that I looked at the cylinder bores and they looked like they were in fairly good condition. Just some light marks on 2 of the bores along with one bore that had vertical marks along with some sort of cross hashing marks.







After that I went to go and take out the Main caps out and the first one came out super easy. The 2nd and 3rd ones I pulled out with my hands. If someone has an easier way of taking them out please let me know. It takes only 3 minutes to pull them out but still there has to be some better way. In my infinite wisdom I bolted up the block to the engine stand without removing the rear main seal and crankshaft rear seal plate thingie. I believe I have to remove the rear main seal in order to take that off but if someone knows otherwise I am all ears. I couldn’t finish taking off the last main cap because the 2 15mm bolts in the center are being impeded by the plate so I put the other 4 back on so that I didn’t lose anything.

Quote:
  • Boss 302 Head Bolts – 10 (20 each side) x 15mm
  • Boss 302 Oil Cooler – 3 x 10mm / 1 fitting 14mm or 9/16
  • Piston Rod Bolts – 16 x 12mm
  • Main Caps – 20 x 13mm / 10 x 15mm
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post #15 of 73 Old November 17th, 2014, 12:40 AM
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almost willing to bet 7 is the main issue. I didnt realize that the 5.0 used the cracked caps on the rods. Is it the same on the main caps?

---------- Post added at 11:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 PM ----------

also, what do the skirts of your pistons look like?


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post #16 of 73 Old November 17th, 2014, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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I would say so too. I mean I have found others with some issues but nothing like #7. I believe they were cracked but I don't remember. When I get home I will take a quick look.

I a tally do have them. When I can get home and to a computer I will post them up but #7 sure did look like it had a bit more scoring on the piston skirt than the other pistons.
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post #17 of 73 Old November 17th, 2014, 03:00 PM
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RGR/JPC CNC Stage 3 Coyote 5.0 Cylinder Heads - Justin's Performance Center

Livernois Motorsports 5.0L Coyote Forged Rotating Assembly - Livernois Motorsports

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How did this gorilla stuff even get started in a thread about me taking it hard in the ass?
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post #18 of 73 Old November 17th, 2014, 06:39 PM
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Sub'd, this is crazy.
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post #19 of 73 Old November 18th, 2014, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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almost willing to bet 7 is the main issue. I didnt realize that the 5.0 used the cracked caps on the rods. Is it the same on the main caps?

---------- Post added at 11:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 PM ----------

also, what do the skirts of your pistons look like?
Ask & you shall receive said the lord. I passed out prettyt much when I got home from work last night so I never went and check on the main caps. My bad, I will post something up around lunch or so.

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I have been seriously looking at either the Stage 2 or the Stage 3s depending on what was recommended by JPC for the build. I know when I was doing a big bore stroker 3V they suggested staying with the Stage 2 heads since the stage 3 would be way to big for what I would be needing so maybe that is the case here as well.

I am looking at something like this but from a different person.

5.0L Coyote 4-Valve Big Bore Pro Series Shortblock (10:1,11.5:1) - Livernois Motorsports
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post #20 of 73 Old November 18th, 2014, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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