Coyote Swapped New Edge - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 35 Old February 3rd, 2017, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Coyote Swapped New Edge

As most people here who have seen my previous build, I took the old 3.8L v6 about as far as it could go with my turbo build. Did lots of things, got it running well, ran it for about two years, and while it turned out pretty good I was left with it not being quite what I wanted for autox.

Previous Build:
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...rbo-build.html

On track (mid ohio) it did great, and drag racing it did well since the suspension was not set up for drag racing in anyways, but those damn hairpins at the autox left me wanting more.

Looked at lots of options:
1) 4V Mach 1 motor + some sort of boost
2) 4V NA cobra motor with turbos
3) 4V cobra motor / blower

Ultimately, the thing I didn't like about those motors is to hit my targets (~400-450whp, reliable, usable power everywhere) I needed boost to do it, and honestly, prices aren't that low on a lot of those engines.

I then decided just get the best I can from ford, and bought a Ford Coyote Gen II (2015+ mustang) crate motor, control pack, and lots of other goodies.

Parts include:
1) Ford Coyote Gen II crate Motor
2) Ford Coyote Control Pack
3) T56 Transmission from 03 cobra
4) New gauges (stock can be made to work, but you have to keep the original ecu in the car)
5) 99-04 Clutch/Flywheel/engine mounts
6) BBK Long Tube Headers / Mid pipe for 79-04 coyote conversions
7) JLT Intake
8) Air conditioning (its back baby!)
9) Power by the hour accessory bracket kit for 99-10 accessories onto coyote motor
10) -8an feed / -6an return fuel system for my cobra tank (needed for coyote swap)
11) lots of supporting mods (hoses, brackets, coolant tank, etc)

Ripping all the old stuff out (sold for well more than what the new coyote engine cost me):








New Parts:


Fuel System


New Motor Showing Up


New motor on stand/starting to set up accessories


---------- Post added at 05:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:50 PM ----------

Oil Filter Relocation kit (not 100% needed, but I liked the option and don't want any potential of sway bar hitting the oil filter)


99-04 v8 poly bushing mounts


Alternator mounted


friend bought me the blue coil covers for xmas


Setting the engine and trans up to go in. Used a 99-04 11" clutch/flywheel setup and arp bolts


Long tubes on (ended up having to take the passenger side off to actually get everything in, then install later)




In the car!




Installed passenger header later by lifting engine with a fender brace bar and then had to bash the #1 runner to gain a bit of clearance against the frame rail. It was just touching, and now has 1/4" - 1/2" clearance




Overflow Bottle Mounted


Radiator Hoses on


Ripped out CCRM and old ecu / harness and picking apart what I still need and what I can scrap




Putting together new gauge cluster. Center dash will have oil pressure, oil temp and water temp as well.






New ON3 fuel hat going together with hte on3 cobra tank I already had




Tank Together


Fuel regulator position checked. Will make a proper bracket to hold it and finish off my fuel lines


Strut tower brace clears!


This is a summary of roughly 2-3 months of work. Will get the fuel system plumbed, ps resevoir / lines made, and get the intake supported and exhaust on and the entire mechanical system will be all together.

After that, jsut some basic wiring and hopefully have it finished up in a couple of weeks.
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post #2 of 35 Old February 3rd, 2017, 08:59 PM
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I'll be following this thread here. I'm wanting to build my car into somewhat of a road racer like yours after I'm finished with college and have a good job. However, I've constantly debated about whether to eventually go the coyote route or build a 351W stroker for my car. I'm mostly hoping to see another person's experience of driving, racing, and just in general living with a coyote swapped Mustang every day.

I'll also be sure to check out your turbo V6 build.
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post #3 of 35 Old February 4th, 2017, 08:19 AM
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This is awesome
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post #4 of 35 Old February 4th, 2017, 02:54 PM
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Awesome build. Hope to see some video of this open and running.
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post #5 of 35 Old February 6th, 2017, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Decently successful weekend, but that fuel system took up all my time.

Saturday I spent three hours making two brakets and half of the powersteering lines.

Fuel Regulator bracket:


Powersteering resevoir mount location (still need to drill / tap the line to the powersteering pump, otherwise its done)


Powersteering cooler I put on a while ago:


Lines for the powersteering cooler all done:


Then on sunday we finally ran the lines. What a bitch. Lots of planning and figuring out where they would go. I still had the solid vapor tube line from the fuel tank to the engine, so I basically just followed that like the stock line did.

Lots of holes, rivnuts, cushion clamps, zipties, and hours later, I have the fuel tank in with all the fuel hoses done.

Initially ran them up in the fender well. There is actually a lot of room here and the shock and coil would have to completely FAIL for the wheel/tire to get up in it. There is about an inch clearance between the fuel lines to the fender well liner when its in the arch.


Cushion clamps


Down under the car


Around the seat posts


Down the tunnel (there is about 1.5-2" of clearance to the driveshaft)


And out around the gas tank. Ended up just doing straight connections here. Originally i wanted to make some sort of easy to get to disconnect, but there just wasn't room and there is actually plenty of space to get the lines off the tank when you drop it about halfway.


Shitty picture but TANK IS IN


Decided to put the fuel filter in the fender arch. Easy to get to, still on the feed line before the regulator, and it tucks nicely out of the way.


Feed line for the engine from the regulator done. It will tie up nicely on the strut tower brace.




Regulator with Gauge


Still need to find a place for the remote oil filter, mount exhaust, finish the powersteering reservoir, and then wiring. Hopefully this week I can get the oil filter and reservoir done, then tackle the exhaust this weekend, and hopefully start on the wiring.

And finally a general under body shot of the MM kmember with the engine / longtubes I have been meaning to take.
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post #6 of 35 Old February 6th, 2017, 08:24 PM
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Impressive work man!

1968 Coupe- Sold
2007 Premium GT- Sold
2015 GT- Premium auto, 3.55 gears, 20's

MY CO BUILD
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post #7 of 35 Old February 12th, 2017, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Another big weekend on the car.

Friday night I got the vacuum lines for the engine figured out. Hard to see, but pretty got the interior vacuum controls for the HVAC, the signal for the fuel regulator, and the pneumatic control for the CMCV in the intakes all plumbed up. 3/8" vacuum line is stupid expensive, around $4 a foot.


Also redid the hard line of the PCV breather with some flex hose so it wouldn't try to pull the insert out of the intake


Saturday we got the oil filter relocation set up on the back of the bumper beam, as well as got the oil lines made up from the block to the filter.




Also made up a new hydrboost to steering rack an line. It took forever to find the teflon o rings for the power steering an fitting adapters (apparently they are known as seals, not o rings).


Then started setting up the exhaust. First the mid pipe, then the catback. Apparently someone didn't want them to touch thought.





Exhaust tips are kinda Ehh. So I will probably end up changing them / tucking them back into the bumper a bit later on.


Today I had to pick up a couple odds and ends and ended up finding the perfect sound tube delete block off for the intake pipe from Advance Auto. Its an expansion plug rubber expander, so it fits in nice and snug, and then you can tighten it down to hold in the intake.




Also, we spent a lot of time with some bends, 3" pipe, and grinding / welding, but finally ended up with the exhaust completed under the car.


That exhaust is I think 1-5/8" primaries to dual 3" collectors, 3" x pipe and 3" dual exhaust around the IRS, with straight through perforated mufflers. Its gonna be loud.

Honestly, thats pretty much it for the mechanical side of things.

Engine, IN
Transmission, IN
Drivetrain, IN
Exhaust, DONE
Cooling, DONE
Powersteering, DONE
Fuel system, DONE

I have one AC line that we test fit tonight and will get welded up tomorrow/this week. Also need a cap for the top of the power steering reservoir.

Now we get to start focusing on the wiring. Will start with the interior wiring, like the gauges, clutch switches, and transmission reverse lock out controller, then run the wiring out of the interior and the wiring from the engine inside in one focal point.

Pretty much have the old harness figured out, just need to finish ripping out the wires I don't need.
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post #8 of 35 Old February 16th, 2017, 06:59 PM
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Nice build. Your progress is definitely high paced. I have a 99 cobra im currently collecting parts for the similar swap but using my stock ecm and trans. Im still trying to compile a complete list of parts needed for the swap lol.
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post #9 of 35 Old February 17th, 2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insanityme View Post
Nice build. Your progress is definitely high paced. I have a 99 cobra im currently collecting parts for the similar swap but using my stock ecm and trans. Im still trying to compile a complete list of parts needed for the swap lol.
Ya, its a lot of parts and a lot of time. I have been pretty lucky to have a lot of available and workable weekends with Ohio winter being extremely mild this year. Plus, having done an engine build/swap before, its nice knowing all the little tips/tricks to get things done faster.

Be prepared for multiple trips to the store. Its a lot of parts that you won't come close to listing before hand lol.

Spent last night prepping the interior for the roll bar install as well as ripping out the dash to make setting up the wiring for the coyote control pack easier.

Lucked out on the clutch switches. The coyote control pack requires two clutch switches. One for bottom travel so that the ecu knows when the clutch is fully depressed and it can apply power to the starter motor upon request. The second is a top of travel engagement, basically when youre just starting to release the clutch. The ecu needs to know this so that it can see that the load is coming off of the engine and it can adjust the ecu parameters so it doesn't over rev or bog out. So since I already have both, I just need to cut the ends off of the new wiring harness and splice into my old connectors. Easy peasy.

Hoping to get a lot of the wiring run and done up this coming week, and hoping to get an engine fire up in the books by first week of march. Will see how things keep to that schedule.

Rear interior removal:


Dash Removal:


Parts Storage (thankfully my buddy doesn't mind me storing my stuff at his house for the time being)

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post #10 of 35 Old February 22nd, 2017, 03:55 PM
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BOOOOOO! Bring back the turbo V6!

FYI: could have saved some money and time/effort on the fuel and PS lines by going with either steel (PS) or aluminum (fuel) lines. They tuck a lot neater too.
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post #11 of 35 Old February 24th, 2017, 08:38 AM
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Nice Build!!!!!!!
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post #12 of 35 Old February 26th, 2017, 07:53 AM
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Nice build man what has been the total cost of just the core items? I'm on the fence about doing this same thing
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post #13 of 35 Old February 27th, 2017, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
FYI: could have saved some money and time/effort on the fuel and PS lines by going with either steel (PS) or aluminum (fuel) lines. They tuck a lot neater too.
Looked into some hard lines, but honestly with the extra lines, and connectors, as well as the added time in trying to make things fit around the IRS, it was easier to just buy a single roll of AN line for the feed and return individually to make it work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MineralGreyGT View Post
Nice build man what has been the total cost of just the core items? I'm on the fence about doing this same thing
Total cost? A lot. There are a lot cheaper ways to do it than the way I am. With F150 motor, GT accessories already, GT trans already, and just getting the control kit and other miscellaneous bits, youll prob be between 6-8 grand. With everything that I have either replaced (engine accessories, wiring connectors), upgraded on the way (fuel system, t56, driveshaft, trans mount, clutch and flywheel, urethane mounts), parts required for the swap (accessory brackets, coolant lines for engine and heater, overflow bottle, ecu and wiring), etc etc, I am at roughly 10-12k, but 6k of that was the new crate engine from Ford, and I also got 8k for my old stuff.

Been a busy past week or so, so didn't get much time to work on the car lately.

Had the day off from work so we started mocking up the roll bar setup. We got the seam sealer out of the way that we needed to to have it sit smooth, as well as cleaning out some of the insulation. Then got the main hoop plate holes drilled and set up. Just need to drill the holes for the rear mounts and sandwhich plates, then get the rear supports welded onto the main hoop. Then final install.


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post #14 of 35 Old March 10th, 2017, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Last night was pretty productive. We pulled the exhaust off to make a couple small adjustments as one end was just a bit longer than the other.

Dropped the fuel tank again so that I could preflush the fuel lines to make sure there wasn't any crud in the lines from when I was making them.

Worked on mounting the ECU. This took a lot of time in terms of measuring, fitting, figuring out where it was gonna go, making sure there was enough clearance for the fender, wheel liner and the headlights, etc. Ran out of rivet nuts, so those are on order, but I have most of the bolts to hold it in for now so that I can start running the wiring loom for the control pack for the coyote.



We also mounted up the rear supports on the rollbar and got the holes drilled through the body and also got the backing plates lined up, drilled, and set up so that the roll bar is fully bolted. Now I need to just cut the interior panels to allow the roll bar through, then I can take the cage back out to get finish welded (rear supports are currently seperate/bolted to the main hoop). Once that is finish welded we can put it back in the car for good.



Tomorrow I have the whole day to work on the car so we are gonna see how far on the wiring we can get and try to bust it all out.

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post #15 of 35 Old March 11th, 2017, 06:11 PM
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What roll bar is that? I have a 4-point that was in mine when I got it. Pretty lame actually. I want to step up to something with a harness bar and swing out door bars.
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post #16 of 35 Old March 11th, 2017, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTGuy View Post
What roll bar is that? I have a 4-point that was in mine when I got it. Pretty lame actually. I want to step up to something with a harness bar and swing out door bars.
I would highly suggest you look into the Maximum motorsports 6 pt cage options if that's the direction your wanting to go. I would however suggest that if you are running anything other than OEM seats, you make darn sure the aftermarkets will clear the swing out leg bars. Something I had to learn and work around myself.
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post #17 of 35 Old March 12th, 2017, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTGuy View Post
What roll bar is that? I have a 4-point that was in mine when I got it. Pretty lame actually. I want to step up to something with a harness bar and swing out door bars.
Yah its a Maximum Motorsports rollbar. Six point with fixed harness bar and swing out doorbars.

Long weekend working on wiring over the past two days.

Started by working on ripping apart the stock harness to find the back up lights so I can splice in the new connector for the T56 harness. Also was working on figuring out which wires I needed and which ones I could get rid of. Honestly, I lost about 80% of the stock harness.



Then got it more or less routed under the fender.



I ultimately had three power wires that went into the bay that I needed to have power to. I had a wire with 12V during key on/start so I used that as a trigger wire for a relay to a fused power wire from the main fuse box. I'm hoping that will be the only adjustment needed and that the harness works out as planned. Otherwise I will be going to a scrapyard to pick up another harness. Thankfully v6 mustangs frequent them plenty haha.

One sacrifice I had to make was mounting the engine harness fuse box underneath the front fender. Hopefully I don't have any issues here as to get to it I'll have to jack the car up, take off the wheel, remove the fender liner then drop it down just to check fuses. Plenty of clearance though to the fender.



After all that I was able to get it tidied up and ended up with this. Should work pretty well.


Hoping to get the gauge wires done up on Tuesday, then the transmission and tach adapter wires/boxes set up on Thursday. After that all that remains is priming the engine oil, filling the coolant, trans and powersteering and installing the interior. Crossing fingers to actually have everything in place to fire it up next weekend.

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post #18 of 35 Old March 15th, 2017, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Started working on more of the interior wiring last night for the gauges and the pigtail harness from the control pack (starter control, auxillaries, ac request, fuel pump, etc etc).

Its nice having the dash out of the car so that I can throw it up on the dining room table to do the wiring. Overall I was able to find the wiring diagrams that I needed pretty easily, so hopefully everything goes well.

I made up my own wiring diagram for everything. I will have a couple of deutsch connectors throughout that way if I have to remove the dash again I don't have to go in and cut wires/resplice. A bit longer and more planning involved, but a much cleaner install in the end. The battle is figuring out where all I need connectors, and what is "dash side" vs "body side".

Diagram


Pinouts


Hoping to finish up this part and the transmission harness on Thursday, then finish all the little things (final fuel tank install, reinstall dash, install steering, prime engine oil, fill radiator/transmission, refinish rotors, blah blah blah) and actually fire it up this weekend. Fingers crossed.

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post #19 of 35 Old March 17th, 2017, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Got the wiring for some more of the gauges done last night. New deutsch connectors are taking a bit of time to wire but they make it a lot cleaner and a lot easier to deal with assembly/disassembly in the future.

Also looked at multiple tuning options. Lund canned tune would be $350 for a control pack/coyote swap car, bleh. Talked to Brian at DTM, and while his price is good, its a bit much right now to just get the car rolling.

My main issue with needing tuning was because the stock 15-17 mustang airbox that came with the control pack kit is way too big to fit in the car. I had purchased a JLT air intake, which is roughly 4.5" diameter at the maf instead of the stock 3.5" diameter, so I needed the tuning to account for the maf readings.

I took a better look at the stock air intake pipe, and with a lot of dremmel work I was able to get a nice tube section to hold the maf but also allow me to fit a 3.5" K&N air filter on the end, so I will do that for the time being and run teh stock tune from the control pack, then get the car dyno tuned later on down the line for maximum power. I'm sure I will have little things I need to adjust here and there once the car is running, and I don't want to put it on the dyno until the car is tried and true.

Top of stock box


Bottom of stock box. Here you can see the tube molded in for the airflow direction to the maf.


Lots of dremmel work later




Stock-ish set up for the time being:


Will be working on it tomorrow, so will pick up a filter and the couple fittings/plugs I need to make the stock pipe work. After that just more wiring and reinstalling the dash/fuel tank/finish wiring/fluids. Hoping for startup on Sunday.
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post #20 of 35 Old March 20th, 2017, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Spent a lot of time on the car this weekend. Still not quite finished, but we are getting close. Wiring takes a LONG time haha.

First up we finished the air intake real quick. I had busted some of the vacuum tabs off accidentally before, so I bought some brass, drilled out the plastic base (thick nylon) and then threaded in the brass fittings and sealed with silicone. Also bought a K&N air filter and made a quick bracket which WILL get changed in the future for less jankiness.





Then spent a lot of time doing wiring. Like A LONG time. Sat we started 1pm and finished at 12:30am, then Sun we started at 1pm and ended at 9pm.

Tach Box installed (this picks up the coil firing signal and puts into an rpm signal wire for my autometer tach).


Also installed my t56 reverse lock out solenoid box in the footwell where the original ecu used to be, fits in nicely. But not easy to get pictures of. I also finished off the transmission harness.

Finally finished all the power wires for the new fuse box that goes to the batter, alternator to fuse box, and the other miscellaneous harness thats needed for all the external sensors and whatnot. This crows nest is what will ultimately be under the passenger fender.



Lots of ground in stock location on either side (engine, starter, coyote ecu ground, 2x original harness grounds, etc):


And then finally last night we got the dash back in and started making all the connections. I have two pigtails to finish off for wiring in here which will be quick now that I have a proper seat to sit in, and then finish off the wiring for the fuel pump and the wiring will FINALLY be done.


We also got the roll bar final mounted, interior panels cut, and rollbar back out for me to take to my welder to weld the rear supports onto the main hoop and then I can final assemble that back into the car.


Still need fluids and to prime the engine, and the little bit of wiring left. Then we can voltage check connections, set the fuel regulator, and finally start this thing.

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