Have you ever damaged a engine directly related to the oil that was in it?
No. The only motor I've ever destroyed was because my dumb ass didn't route my remote oil filter line away from the tire far enough, I rubbed it, it burst, and good bye oil pressure, hellow spun bearings.
However, having lived in Ohio (near Toledo) and now in Minnesota, and having grown up in Texas, I'm intimately familiar with lots of different climates. When I lived in Ohio, a "cold" morning was 10 degrees F or so.
In Houston, a "cold" morning was about 33 degrees F.
Here, a cold morning will be -27 actual temp (not wind chill numbers, because those are bullshit).
Back in 2011/2012 when we had the "polar vortex" winter where we had three consecutive weeks where the high temp was still double digits below zero, my 2002 Crown Vic with 0w30 Mobil 1 would start up just fine, no ugly noises, no ticking from the top end, no issues. My work van, a 2007 Caravan CV (windowless rape van in minivan form basically) which had regular dino style Pennzoil 5w20 in it (because that's what the shop we get our oil changes at does) would literally scream when starting up. The oil was so cold at -20 F ambient temp, it wouldn't flow, and it put a LOT of wear and tear on that motor. We kept oil in it, it didn't burn any, but those noises made me not want to start it up.
My truck tells me all that stuff right on the dash and it doesnít warm up that fast, and Iím in Texas. So, to keep this on topic, since people like to redirect whatís being said, to for their argument, keeping the coolant warm is exactly what he needs. The exact question was in regard to warming his truck up in the morning, and not disturbing his neighbors. Warmer coolant = warmer air out the dash. Aside from that, I mentioned earlier, itís more than oil. If the coolant is warm, you know what else is warm? The whole block, around the cylinder, pistons, Ect. Exactly what needs to be warm.
Regarding your temperature gauge, the needle on my Thunderbird is an idiot light. If it's below 120 degrees, it doesn't move yet. Once it gets to 155 or so, it moves right smack to the middle of the gauge, and it'll register if it goes over 210 by moving up. My sensor reading the data direct from the ECU however, will tell me exactly what temp the car is at. On my Subaru, the needle doesn't move till it hits 110 or so, it goes half way between C and the mid point at about 130, and parks in the middle from 160 to 200. I haven't gotten it hotter than 200 yet, because it's a Subaru and the head gaskets will blow if you look at them crosseyed, and I live in Duluth, MN so 200 degrees only happens inside an oven. But just because your needle doesn't move fast doesn't mean the car isn't warming up quick.
I do agree, having the coolant warming the block is a good thing. I never said it wasn't. But, that doesn't heat up the oil. I admit, I live in the freaking cold and that puts some extremes into the situation, but because of that, and having seen videos of various oils and how they flow at various temps, I'll stick with my synthetic just to keep any issues from happening.
Here's the video if you're interested.