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post #1 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Huge newb at detailing.

Hey guys I've never actually detailed my own car. Besides the little armour all and a chamois(shammy). Anyways Here is a list I have picked out that i want to try.

Meguirs liquid gold wax
3M compunds stage1,2 and 3. I have some brutal scratches...
Mothers Clay bar
And i think thats it.


How the hell do clay bars even work? I see people with clean ass cars and they all have Claybar as one of the ingredients.

Also will post up pics of the daamaged/scratched areas tomorrow

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post #2 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 01:58 AM
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Claybars just lift contaminants off the clear coats. Make sure when you are claying the car to keep the area well lubricated. I'm taking it this is your first time claying the car so take your time on each section and try to work in a small area at a time.



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post #3 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:00 AM
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Z needs to get in here!



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post #4 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00BlueMustang View Post
Claybars just lift contaminants off the clear coats. Make sure when you are claying the car to keep the area well lubricated. I'm taking it this is your first time claying the car so take your time on each section and try to work in a small area at a time.
So u just rub the bar on ur car like u would a bar of soap on a smelly ass crack?



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post #5 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:04 AM
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So u just rub the bar on ur car like u would a bar of soap on a smelly ass crack?
Yes sir. I actually just clayed my car Saturday and applied a thin layer of Chemical Guys 50/50 paste wax. It rained today and the beading of the water was so freaking tight.

To the OP how do you plan to apply your compounds?



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post #6 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:14 AM
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i just washed clayed and sealed my mustang today i posted it already though on another thread if you want to know what i used check out the other thread man. Mike i would get these item to start with.

1. a good car wash soap gold class is good i use it
2. megs clay bar kit is fine for you since your new at it. not mothers and yeah just spray the QD on the bar and move back and forth in a straight line motion fold the clay as it gets dirty and wipe away the QD then go to a new section top sections first then work your way down. also never re use a clay that has fallen on the floor never it will pick up dirt and you will damage your finish.
3. as for compounds / polishes id go Megs M105 / M205
4. a good wax for the price is poorboys nattys blue or if you want to use a sealant what i used today was Blackfire wet diamond its just flat out amazing its not cheap but its worth it.

I also suggest to two bucket washing method with grit guards and a sheepskin mitt. Purchasing a foam gun to help reduce marring the finish especially since its black like mine and a Porter Cable 7424XP with all the necessary cutting pads and backing plate for polishing. Also an arsenal of quality microfibers if you want to get into it the right way also take note these items are not cheap but are really worth the investment. i consider it a mod for my stang since i have already spent 500+ on items this past month but to keep a show car shine i think its worth every penny but this is just would do you dont have to go that far.

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Last edited by dannyboy281; June 2nd, 2010 at 02:29 AM.
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post #7 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:21 AM
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lol danny the poor guy doesnt know how a claybar works and your telling him to buy Megs. #105/205 haha



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post #8 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:28 AM
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i know i should ease him in huh sorry haha but its better to get it done right instead of beating around the bush with other product that just have fillers but yeah mike is going to be like wtf is megs m105 / 205

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Last edited by dannyboy281; June 2nd, 2010 at 02:36 AM.
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post #9 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:34 AM
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I will come back with some more info tomorrow... got to get some sleep before work



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post #10 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:38 AM
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I will come back with some more info tomorrow... got to get some sleep before work
I'll keep your seat warm for ya



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post #11 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:43 AM
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wonder were zinc has been lately haven't seen him around the detailing forum in the past days

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post #12 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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WTF is megs #? i'm guessing meguirs something. I'll post pictures of some of the damaged areas.

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post #13 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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This is one the hood.. My finger catches a bit in one spot. No idea what its from.

This is on the roof by the windsheild. It looks like someone had a box and dragged it off.


Trust me these arent water spots..

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post #14 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Also my rear quarter fenders have some rubber warmed into the clear from the burnout box at the track.

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post #15 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 07:05 PM
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Damn she is in need of a good polishing. And Megs is Meguiars. As for the one scratch that is too deep that can be made less visable by getting some facotry touch up paint. Zat jst posted how to properly apply it the other day in one of the threads here for other deep ones wetsanding . Your car is a great canidate for the Meguires M105/M205 combo thats just my opinion. In case you wanted to know what M105 / M205 are here are two links

Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 - 32 oz | Detailed Image

Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - 32 oz | Detailed Image

But like I stated in my other post it will cost you to get that finish looking good but it will be worth it. In the end it is really your choice of how much your willing to spend on correcting the finish.

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Last edited by dannyboy281; June 2nd, 2010 at 07:09 PM.
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post #16 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikejones16 View Post
This is one the hood.. My finger catches a bit in one spot. No idea what its from.


If these white marks are the absence of black paint, then no buffing will remove that. The rule of thumb: If your fingernail catches it, you can't buff it out. If its just scuffs and swirls, it can be buffed.

This is on the roof by the windsheild. It looks like someone had a box and dragged it off.


That looks like it could be buffed out. However theres no way to tell on a pic.



All of that will buff out with the exception of maybe the ring from the spoiler. That may require some wetsanding.

Trust me these arent water spots..



Buffing will help that a lot, but don't expect a miricale of the defects are pitted into the paint.



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post #17 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thank you guys. I might pick up some stuff this friday.

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post #18 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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What kind of Buffer should i be looking at getting. I'm just in need to get the job done.

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post #19 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Ok this is my list so far. Can i get these items locally? And in this exact order is how i should apply them?

Claybar(not sure what kind yet)
meguiars ultra-cut compound m105
meguires ultra finishing polish m205
poorboys world black hole
blackfire wet diamond with polycharger
poorboys world natty's blue paste

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post #20 of 118 Old June 2nd, 2010, 10:46 PM
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Check out these stickys:

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ing-101-a.html
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...t-started.html
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...each-does.html

Normal process in order:
  1. Wash
  2. Clay
  3. compound
  4. polish
  5. Glaze
  6. Sealant
  7. Wax
  8. beer

Honestly I would not suggest starting out with M105/205 because of the learning curve. They are great products, but intemidating for beginners. If you feel you learn quickly go ahead with them but read up a lot before you do. If you want a product thats easy to learn with go with the XMT Line.

If you have any questions after reading the stickies let me know.



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