I wanted to use my BFWD because its what I have available, however I am kind of intimidated about this "soft paint". I will know tomorrow whether its jet black or not.. If it is I don't think I am going to use my typical M105/205 with my orange/blue foam pads.. I don't want to risk it.. This car is going to need A LOT of attention however I don't want to ruin any paint while I am at it..
You're saying after I polish and before I seal to throw a quick coat of wax on it? Then seal, then wax again?
My last detail I think I did 1 part alcohol to two parts water, is that correct? Its been a while..
I'm kind of freaked the hell out to use my 105/205 and uber pads if it is jet black.. Since the clear is so thin, instead of focusing so hard on compounding the scratches/marring out should I do one good pass and possibly two polishing passes to elimate the risk of removing to much or cutting too deep? That top inspection paint cleaner will replace the IPA? I assume its used just like the IPA, spray on and wipe off with MF? I think I will seal with the BFWD just because its what I have and I love the smell of it. Lol. However, do you suggest a "better" top wax? Also, whats a good QD to use on occasion? I had some meguiars that I occasionally used on the mustang but I didn't like the way it wiped off, almost like I wasn't able to completely get it off..
Honestly for $15 I don't mind investing in some MTi even if it only helps a little..
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I am also looking into getting a pressure washer as well as a foam cannon.. Any suggestions? Where's the best place to buy?
Also, is using a leaf blower a safe practice for drying a car? If so again, what would you suggest?
The paint is soft,
not necessarily thin. If the paint is factory and hasnt been polished before or even if it has, there should be plenty of clear coat on it to polish. The BMW i did had between 110-150 microns of paint, which is PLENTY. Im not saying yours is the same, because every car is different. But ive worked on a decent number of cars and i havent come across one that was super thin yet, YES, there are some out there that are very thin, but the odds are in your favor that the paint is plenty thick to polish. I wouldnt be worried about the thickness of the paint for compounding. The reason i recommended a MF cutting pad and FG400 is because for YOUR application, using the machine you are using, its going to be easier to get a decent amount of cut, and since you said the paint was jacked, youre gonna need some cut. Using a MF cutting pad will make the most of the power a PC has and will also maintain cut for more sections which will save you time. If you want to cut less, you can always reduce the amount of pressure or speed you are using if you feel that "full throttle" is too much. I think youll find the MF cutting pad is what is needed.
The reason i suggested Sonax Brilliant shine detailer as a topper is because it is a very cheap and easy way to make BFWD MUCH more hydrophobic. BFWD, as a conventional sealant, WILL sheet and bead water well, but not nearly as well as a wax or coating. BFWD, like most conventional sealants, is more likely to spot from hard water. Increasing the ability to repel water/dirt will help in many ways, including washing, drying and staying spot free. Go ahead and use your BFWD, after its fully cured, just go over the car with SBSD and youll love the beading action.
Drying- Pool the water, follow with a leaf blower then follow that up with a medium napped MF towel and QD. Its important to use a QD to lubricate the drying surface to avoid dry friction which can induce marring.
Also, just found out its jet black. Yay me!
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Here's what I have so far..
Looks good man, i would get the blue pad instead of the green, blue will finish down better on that paint. MF cutting and FG400, followed by SF4500 on blue pad.
Ahh I've never had much luck with that "pooling" doing any good for me..
Wouldn't the MTi work just like the ultima waterless wash you're talking about?
Pooling water is easy. Just use an open ended hose a low pressure. The secret is in your LSP. BFWD will sheet water very well, once you top it with Sonax BSD, itll sheet REALLY well lol, any droplets left over will blow off easy with the leaf blower.
MTI and UWW are two completely different products. MTI is an IPA substitute/paint cleanser. MTI will clean the surface better than IPA will and is "safer" on paint than IPA is (although IPA is plenty safe if properly diluted). If you want to save money, use 91% IPA diluted 1:4 (4 parts distilled water) for the inspection after compounding, and use the MTI for the final wipedown. That will insure all polishing oils are gone and BFWD will adhere correctly.
UWW is a waterless wash/quick detailer/clay lube. Its AWESOME. It makes a great clay lube, drying aide, QD- everything, and its CHEAP because you dilute it. I would absolutely recommend you buy some, it will save you a ton in the long run.