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post #1 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Am I prepared?

Its been a long time since I've been on here and I feel like "i'm out of the loop" when it comes to detailing...

Now I am getting ready to detail my girlfriends car this weekend and I was going to use the same products that I have used on my car for the past 2yrs which has always given me great results. Still beads up amazing after a year of not touching the car. With that being said, the products I had planned to use are Meguiars gold class car wash (2 bucket method), Meguiars clay bar kit, M105 (applied with a pc), M205, (applied with a pc) BFWD, followed by Meguiars gold class carnauba wax..

With that being said its a 2003 BMW 330i. Black as they come with VERY harsh paint.. I've been seeing about these products being "dated" but are they still good enough to use? Like I said my car still beads amazing and I can actually poor a bottle of water on it and have it run off...



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post #2 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 02:51 PM
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Yea they're dated, and gold class isn't the best soap or wax, but you're using the right compounds and polishes and a good quality sealant, so that's good. There are better compounds and polishes out now but you will be fine with what you have and still get awesome results if you know what you're doing with the pc

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post #3 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B's04gt View Post
Its been a long time since I've been on here and I feel like "i'm out of the loop" when it comes to detailing...

Now I am getting ready to detail my girlfriends car this weekend and I was going to use the same products that I have used on my car for the past 2yrs which has always given me great results. Still beads up amazing after a year of not touching the car. With that being said, the products I had planned to use are Meguiars gold class car wash (2 bucket method), Meguiars clay bar kit, M105 (applied with a pc), M205, (applied with a pc) BFWD, followed by Meguiars gold class carnauba wax..

With that being said its a 2003 BMW 330i. Black as they come with VERY harsh paint.. I've been seeing about these products being "dated" but are they still good enough to use? Like I said my car still beads amazing and I can actually poor a bottle of water on it and have it run off...
If your GFs BMW is jet black, then the paint is VERY VERY VERY soft. I cant stress it enough. The jet black bmw paint is some of the softest paint on the market, MF towels can mar the finish- That being said, M205 most likely will not finish down perfectly on the paint. If you inspect the paint in a dark room with powerful but FLAT lighting (that is light that is diffused-think cell phone flash) it will reveal micro marring. M205 is a great polish, but if the paint is soft at all, its not going to finish down as well as some other options.

M105 will work, but if M105 and M205 are the only polishes you own. I would encourage a small investment that will yield better results in less steps since you will need a finer polish, ime:

Purchase some Meguiars M101 or Menzerna FG400
-The reason i recommend these over M105 is that they are both 100x easier to work with, dust much less if any, and most importantly will both finish down well enough to skip to a final polish- and you will need a final polish to properly finish down bmw black.

Final polish wise, Id recommend Menzerna SF4500 or HD polish. Hd polish is easier to work with, but i think Menzerna's Sf4500 will be more consistent at finishing down perfectly.

FG400 is cheaper than M101, but M101 has a little more cut and may be easier to get alot of cut with using a PC.

Just my .02 You can try m205 and if its up to your standards, go for it. But ive dealt with that paint before and its a PITA to work with because its so soft.

Check the paint code on her car, if its Sapphire black Metallic then youre ok, 205 will probably do fine as that paint is pretty hard. But if its Jet black, prepare yourself for a detailing challenge lol.


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post #4 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevey92 View Post
Yea they're dated, and gold class isn't the best soap or wax, but you're using the right compounds and polishes and a good quality sealant, so that's good. There are better compounds and polishes out now but you will be fine with what you have and still get awesome results if you know what you're doing with the pc

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I think the last wash I used was lusso but the top ended up cracking and leaked out 80% of my product and haven't had the time to get some more.. What's the "cats meow" if you will now-days?

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If your GFs BMW is jet black, then the paint is VERY VERY VERY soft. I cant stress it enough. The jet black bmw paint is some of the softest paint on the market, MF towels can mar the finish- That being said, M205 most likely will not finish down perfectly on the paint. If you inspect the paint in a dark room with powerful but FLAT lighting (that is light that is diffused-think cell phone flash) it will reveal micro marring. M205 is a great polish, but if the paint is soft at all, its not going to finish down as well as some other options.

M105 will work, but if M105 and M205 are the only polishes you own. I would encourage a small investment that will yield better results in less steps since you will need a finer polish, ime:

Purchase some Meguiars M101 or Menzerna FG400
-The reason i recommend these over M105 is that they are both 100x easier to work with, dust much less if any, and most importantly will both finish down well enough to skip to a final polish- and you will need a final polish to properly finish down bmw black.

Final polish wise, Id recommend Menzerna SF4500 or HD polish. Hd polish is easier to work with, but i think Menzerna's Sf4500 will be more consistent at finishing down perfectly.

FG400 is cheaper than M101, but M101 has a little more cut and may be easier to get alot of cut with using a PC.

Just my .02 You can try m205 and if its up to your standards, go for it. But ive dealt with that paint before and its a PITA to work with because its so soft.

Check the paint code on her car, if its Sapphire black Metallic then youre ok, 205 will probably do fine as that paint is pretty hard. But if its Jet black, prepare yourself for a detailing challenge lol.
I just looked at both the FG400 and the M101 and the FG400 seems a little more promising, however I will need new pads to work with the FG400 a little better, am I capable of using the FG400 to its potential with my pc but different pads? Would you suggest FG400 of the M101?

I also noticed the dusting of the M105, It would leave a residue harder than shit to get off my plastic pieces.. Any remedy to that? Will FG400 be the same way?

Onto polishes... The SF4500 again looks to be more appealing.. From what I read it works best as a two step product? Or should I throw a medium polish in between the FG400 and the SF4500? Again what pad should I use? Will my pc be up to par or have the ability to work out the scratches with the proper pad?

Thanks for the fast responses! I haven't even used all my M105/205 and its already dated...

For sealant, Is BFWD still acceptable? Will it still do a great job? Or once again is there something better out there?



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post #5 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 04:49 PM
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I think you're the only person on the planet that has seen a year's durability out of BFWD followed by Meguiars gold class carnauba.
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post #6 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by David-Fermani.com View Post
I think you're the only person on the planet that has seen a year's durability out of BFWD followed by Meguiars gold class carnauba.
I've been extremely happy with the the m105/205 bfwd and Gold class. Granted the car is driven about 2-3k miles a year but it lasts a long time. I put about 3 coats of wax on it when I do the yearly detail. I've been happy with it.


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post #7 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by B's04gt View Post
I think the last wash I used was lusso but the top ended up cracking and leaked out 80% of my product and haven't had the time to get some more.. What's the "cats meow" if you will now-days?


I just looked at both the FG400 and the M101 and the FG400 seems a little more promising, however I will need new pads to work with the FG400 a little better, am I capable of using the FG400 to its potential with my pc but different pads? Would you suggest FG400 of the M101?

I also noticed the dusting of the M105, It would leave a residue harder than shit to get off my plastic pieces.. Any remedy to that? Will FG400 be the same way?

Onto polishes... The SF4500 again looks to be more appealing.. From what I read it works best as a two step product? Or should I throw a medium polish in between the FG400 and the SF4500? Again what pad should I use? Will my pc be up to par or have the ability to work out the scratches with the proper pad?

Thanks for the fast responses! I haven't even used all my M105/205 and its already dated...

For sealant, Is BFWD still acceptable? Will it still do a great job? Or once again is there something better out there?
FG400 has alot of cut. It doesnt cut QUITE as hard as M101, but IMO, its just as capable if you put a little more time in.

FG400 will finish down about as well as M205 bud, its that good. FG400 followed by SF4500 is exactly how i corrected a 2007 335i in jet black back in March. The correction wasnt the problem, it was cleaning the panels afterwards, lol. IPA+MF marred the paint. So what i ended up doing was skipping the IPA after final polishing and just rewashing the vehicle when i was done to prep for sealant. You can IPA after compounding with FG400, any marring caused by MFs will be easily removed with SF4500.

You can absolutely use your PC to correct it. But if you are going to purchase new pads, i would get some Microfiber cutting pads, they will offer you more correction ability with your PC than foam will. They will also maintain their cut for more passes. Just read up on MF cutting pad how-tos, its really the best option for entry level, free spindle polishers like the PC or GG. Follow that up with SF4500 on a Blue BnS pad (or other finishing pad of your choice) and you should be pretty happy with the results.

BFWD is fine too. You dont here much about it these days in the detailing world because there are other options that are just as good for less money. If you are going to use a sealant, thats cool. But id top it with a wax or at least spray wax after its cured just to decrease the chance of water spotting that is common with conventional sealants. A simple spray wax can cut down on that. If you dont mind spending more money, id pick up Sonax Brilliant Shine detailer, its a QD topper that has the blood of sonax polymer net shield. Its a GREAT topper product for anything and ON ITS OWN beads like a coating.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David-Fermani.com View Post
I think you're the only person on the planet that has seen a year's durability out of BFWD followed by Meguiars gold class carnauba.
Well if a car only got driven 3k miles in a year and was garaged i dont see why it wouldnt last that long lol. The sealant that is.


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post #8 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 11:23 PM
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You should be fine man another thing you can try if your girlfriends 330i is jet-black to reduce the amount of marring caused, is test and see if you can get 80+% correction with a green uber pad and your M205 on say the fender or a portion of the hood. If you can then go around the entire 330i with that combination and then just follow up with Scholl Concepts S40, SF 4500 or 3M Ultrafina on a blue uber pad. Most of the time with soft paints you can remove quite a bit of defects with a finer polish like M205 or Menzerna SF 4000 and a green uber pad without compromising as many microns off the clear as you would with a compound and say a microfiber pad or courser PPI pad. Try and remember that if the paint code is jet-black then clear is going to be alot softer than conventional clear coats. You will cut through it faster with a courser pad and compound/polish combination, and will remove more microns than sometimes necessary, meaning your left with less clear coat on the finish and you can never get that back. I also suggest picking pup some Menzerna Top Inspection or Carpro Eraser to remove the polishing oils if it is jet black both are friendlier to work with on soft clears compared to IPA and help reduce marring. As for LSP's I say use what you got no need to go and get something else, Blackfire Wet Diamond is a good sealant with two coats you be just fine, I don't like letting products go to waste but thats me.

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post #9 of 85 Old December 11th, 2013, 11:50 PM
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Hes not gonna take that much off with a PC lol.

He may be able to get by with 205, but he said the paint was jacked pretty bad, probably would need a more aggresive pad.

When i did that black 07 bimmer there was some stuff i couldnt get out with FG400. But since its family i guess u can take a risk there lol. I was trying to get as much correction as possible in my case.

If its jet black, i dont think IPA, Eraser, Top inspection are gonna make a difference marring wise, that paint just sucks. Cpe and MTi both clean better than IPA for sure tho.


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post #10 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModdedMach View Post
FG400 has alot of cut. It doesnt cut QUITE as hard as M101, but IMO, its just as capable if you put a little more time in.

FG400 will finish down about as well as M205 bud, its that good. FG400 followed by SF4500 is exactly how i corrected a 2007 335i in jet black back in March. The correction wasnt the problem, it was cleaning the panels afterwards, lol. IPA+MF marred the paint. So what i ended up doing was skipping the IPA after final polishing and just rewashing the vehicle when i was done to prep for sealant. You can IPA after compounding with FG400, any marring caused by MFs will be easily removed with SF4500.

You can absolutely use your PC to correct it. But if you are going to purchase new pads, i would get some Microfiber cutting pads, they will offer you more correction ability with your PC than foam will. They will also maintain their cut for more passes. Just read up on MF cutting pad how-tos, its really the best option for entry level, free spindle polishers like the PC or GG. Follow that up with SF4500 on a Blue BnS pad (or other finishing pad of your choice) and you should be pretty happy with the results.

BFWD is fine too. You dont here much about it these days in the detailing world because there are other options that are just as good for less money. If you are going to use a sealant, thats cool. But id top it with a wax or at least spray wax after its cured just to decrease the chance of water spotting that is common with conventional sealants. A simple spray wax can cut down on that. If you dont mind spending more money, id pick up Sonax Brilliant Shine detailer, its a QD topper that has the blood of sonax polymer net shield. Its a GREAT topper product for anything and ON ITS OWN beads like a coating.



Well if a car only got driven 3k miles in a year and was garaged i dont see why it wouldnt last that long lol. The sealant that is.
I wanted to use my BFWD because its what I have available, however I am kind of intimidated about this "soft paint". I will know tomorrow whether its jet black or not.. If it is I don't think I am going to use my typical M105/205 with my orange/blue foam pads.. I don't want to risk it.. This car is going to need A LOT of attention however I don't want to ruin any paint while I am at it..

You're saying after I polish and before I seal to throw a quick coat of wax on it? Then seal, then wax again?

My last detail I think I did 1 part alcohol to two parts water, is that correct? Its been a while..

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyboy281 View Post
You should be fine man another thing you can try if your girlfriends 330i is jet-black to reduce the amount of marring caused, is test and see if you can get 80+% correction with a green uber pad and your M205 on say the fender or a portion of the hood. If you can then go around the entire 330i with that combination and then just follow up with Scholl Concepts S40, SF 4500 or 3M Ultrafina on a blue uber pad. Most of the time with soft paints you can remove quite a bit of defects with a finer polish like M205 or Menzerna SF 4000 and a green uber pad without compromising as many microns off the clear as you would with a compound and say a microfiber pad or courser PPI pad. Try and remember that if the paint code is jet-black then clear is going to be alot softer than conventional clear coats. You will cut through it faster with a courser pad and compound/polish combination, and will remove more microns than sometimes necessary, meaning your left with less clear coat on the finish and you can never get that back. I also suggest picking pup some Menzerna Top Inspection or Carpro Eraser to remove the polishing oils if it is jet black both are friendlier to work with on soft clears compared to IPA and help reduce marring. As for LSP's I say use what you got no need to go and get something else, Blackfire Wet Diamond is a good sealant with two coats you be just fine, I don't like letting products go to waste but thats me.
I'm kind of freaked the hell out to use my 105/205 and uber pads if it is jet black.. Since the clear is so thin, instead of focusing so hard on compounding the scratches/marring out should I do one good pass and possibly two polishing passes to elimate the risk of removing to much or cutting too deep? That top inspection paint cleaner will replace the IPA? I assume its used just like the IPA, spray on and wipe off with MF? I think I will seal with the BFWD just because its what I have and I love the smell of it. Lol. However, do you suggest a "better" top wax? Also, whats a good QD to use on occasion? I had some meguiars that I occasionally used on the mustang but I didn't like the way it wiped off, almost like I wasn't able to completely get it off..

Quote:
Originally Posted by ModdedMach View Post
Hes not gonna take that much off with a PC lol.

He may be able to get by with 205, but he said the paint was jacked pretty bad, probably would need a more aggresive pad.

When i did that black 07 bimmer there was some stuff i couldnt get out with FG400. But since its family i guess u can take a risk there lol. I was trying to get as much correction as possible in my case.

If its jet black, i dont think IPA, Eraser, Top inspection are gonna make a difference marring wise, that paint just sucks. Cpe and MTi both clean better than IPA for sure tho.
Honestly for $15 I don't mind investing in some MTi even if it only helps a little..

---------- Post added at 12:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 AM ----------

I am also looking into getting a pressure washer as well as a foam cannon.. Any suggestions? Where's the best place to buy?

Also, is using a leaf blower a safe practice for drying a car? If so again, what would you suggest?



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post #11 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 02:37 PM
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Pooling rinse and leaf blower is the safEST way to dry a car

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post #12 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Pooling rinse?

Also, just found out its jet black. Yay me!

---------- Post added at 02:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ----------

Here's what I have so far..




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post #13 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 03:13 PM
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Pooling rinse?

Also, just found out its jet black. Yay me!

---------- Post added at 02:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ----------

Here's what I have so far..


Go ahead and grab a 16 oz of Ultima waterless wash while you're at it. It's versatile as hell you can use it for almost every step of the correction.

16 oz makes 5.5 gallons of quick detailer/waterless wash/clay lube. Use it to help prime pads, wipe after polishing, wiping up dust, glass, paint, wheels, everything.
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post #14 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WAmb9DWdnFc

Go ahead and grab a 16 oz of Ultima waterless wash while you're at it. It's versatile as hell you can use it for almost every step of the correction.

16 oz makes 5.5 gallons of quick detailer/waterless wash/clay lube. Use it to help prime pads, wipe after polishing, wiping up dust, glass, paint, wheels, everything.
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Ahh I've never had much luck with that "pooling" doing any good for me..

Wouldn't the MTi work just like the ultima waterless wash you're talking about?



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post #15 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 04:45 PM
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I wanted to use my BFWD because its what I have available, however I am kind of intimidated about this "soft paint". I will know tomorrow whether its jet black or not.. If it is I don't think I am going to use my typical M105/205 with my orange/blue foam pads.. I don't want to risk it.. This car is going to need A LOT of attention however I don't want to ruin any paint while I am at it..

You're saying after I polish and before I seal to throw a quick coat of wax on it? Then seal, then wax again?

My last detail I think I did 1 part alcohol to two parts water, is that correct? Its been a while..



I'm kind of freaked the hell out to use my 105/205 and uber pads if it is jet black.. Since the clear is so thin, instead of focusing so hard on compounding the scratches/marring out should I do one good pass and possibly two polishing passes to elimate the risk of removing to much or cutting too deep? That top inspection paint cleaner will replace the IPA? I assume its used just like the IPA, spray on and wipe off with MF? I think I will seal with the BFWD just because its what I have and I love the smell of it. Lol. However, do you suggest a "better" top wax? Also, whats a good QD to use on occasion? I had some meguiars that I occasionally used on the mustang but I didn't like the way it wiped off, almost like I wasn't able to completely get it off..



Honestly for $15 I don't mind investing in some MTi even if it only helps a little..

---------- Post added at 12:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 AM ----------

I am also looking into getting a pressure washer as well as a foam cannon.. Any suggestions? Where's the best place to buy?

Also, is using a leaf blower a safe practice for drying a car? If so again, what would you suggest?
The paint is soft, not necessarily thin. If the paint is factory and hasnt been polished before or even if it has, there should be plenty of clear coat on it to polish. The BMW i did had between 110-150 microns of paint, which is PLENTY. Im not saying yours is the same, because every car is different. But ive worked on a decent number of cars and i havent come across one that was super thin yet, YES, there are some out there that are very thin, but the odds are in your favor that the paint is plenty thick to polish. I wouldnt be worried about the thickness of the paint for compounding. The reason i recommended a MF cutting pad and FG400 is because for YOUR application, using the machine you are using, its going to be easier to get a decent amount of cut, and since you said the paint was jacked, youre gonna need some cut. Using a MF cutting pad will make the most of the power a PC has and will also maintain cut for more sections which will save you time. If you want to cut less, you can always reduce the amount of pressure or speed you are using if you feel that "full throttle" is too much. I think youll find the MF cutting pad is what is needed.

The reason i suggested Sonax Brilliant shine detailer as a topper is because it is a very cheap and easy way to make BFWD MUCH more hydrophobic. BFWD, as a conventional sealant, WILL sheet and bead water well, but not nearly as well as a wax or coating. BFWD, like most conventional sealants, is more likely to spot from hard water. Increasing the ability to repel water/dirt will help in many ways, including washing, drying and staying spot free. Go ahead and use your BFWD, after its fully cured, just go over the car with SBSD and youll love the beading action.

Drying- Pool the water, follow with a leaf blower then follow that up with a medium napped MF towel and QD. Its important to use a QD to lubricate the drying surface to avoid dry friction which can induce marring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B's04gt View Post
Pooling rinse?

Also, just found out its jet black. Yay me!

---------- Post added at 02:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ----------

Here's what I have so far..

Looks good man, i would get the blue pad instead of the green, blue will finish down better on that paint. MF cutting and FG400, followed by SF4500 on blue pad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B's04gt View Post
Ahh I've never had much luck with that "pooling" doing any good for me..

Wouldn't the MTi work just like the ultima waterless wash you're talking about?
Pooling water is easy. Just use an open ended hose a low pressure. The secret is in your LSP. BFWD will sheet water very well, once you top it with Sonax BSD, itll sheet REALLY well lol, any droplets left over will blow off easy with the leaf blower.

MTI and UWW are two completely different products. MTI is an IPA substitute/paint cleanser. MTI will clean the surface better than IPA will and is "safer" on paint than IPA is (although IPA is plenty safe if properly diluted). If you want to save money, use 91% IPA diluted 1:4 (4 parts distilled water) for the inspection after compounding, and use the MTI for the final wipedown. That will insure all polishing oils are gone and BFWD will adhere correctly.

UWW is a waterless wash/quick detailer/clay lube. Its AWESOME. It makes a great clay lube, drying aide, QD- everything, and its CHEAP because you dilute it. I would absolutely recommend you buy some, it will save you a ton in the long run.


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post #16 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 05:23 PM
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Just get the uww, you'll thank us later. I use it for literally everything, around the house too. And like modded said if you haven't gotten a lot of water off with pooling then your stream is too strong or you have NO lsp on the car.

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post #17 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModdedMach View Post
Hes not gonna take that much off with a PC lol.

He may be able to get by with 205, but he said the paint was jacked pretty bad, probably would need a more aggresive pad.

When i did that black 07 bimmer there was some stuff i couldnt get out with FG400. But since its family i guess u can take a risk there lol. I was trying to get as much correction as possible in my case.

If its jet black, i dont think IPA, Eraser, Top inspection are gonna make a difference marring wise, that paint just sucks. Cpe and MTi both clean better than IPA for sure tho.
There are many scenarios to keep in mind, since he doesn't have a PTG he has no clue how much clear has degraded over the years if it was minimal or if it was a bit more severe. He did state this was a 2003 thats 10+ years and who knows if it was garage kept or even protected at all through out those 10 years. I do still suggest he at least try out what I told him just to see what results he gets before he hits it with the microfiber pads and FG400 even if he is using a pc. Im not saying your method is incorrect I just believe he should try a lesser abrasive combination first. I do find top inspection to be easier to work with and takes less wipes to remove compound/polish residue than different dilutions of IPA & distilled water on soft clears, for moderate to hard clears I stick with IPA since its cheaper.

As for the order it looks good to me I would pick up 2 more green pads since you stated you already have orange and blues. Let us know if you have any more questions. I hope you have approriate lighting as well that is always a must. As for Top inspection I wouldn't use it as a Quick detailer but rather solely to remove polish residue. Invest in Ultima waterless wash plus concentrate and a few gallons of distilled water for that.

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post #18 of 85 Old December 12th, 2013, 10:27 PM
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Trying the least aggressive method possible is always a great idea. Judging by the machine he is using, the described condition of the paint, and my own personal experience with the same paint, i dont think FG400 on a green pad is going to be as productive as a Mf cutting pad. Not so much that it wont have the cut to yield a decent result, more so that it wont maintain the cut as well as MF will, which will take more time, more pad washing, ect.

The real question is, what correction rate is the goal? If he doesnt care to remove more than 70-80% of defects, than green is the pad of choice, surely.

Its just in my nature to want to correct as much as possible, and in this case its gonna be 2 steps either way, so i just suggested the method that i think will yield the best result, based on my personal experience.


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post #19 of 85 Old December 13th, 2013, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModdedMach View Post
The paint is soft, not necessarily thin. If the paint is factory and hasnt been polished before or even if it has, there should be plenty of clear coat on it to polish. The BMW i did had between 110-150 microns of paint, which is PLENTY. Im not saying yours is the same, because every car is different. But ive worked on a decent number of cars and i havent come across one that was super thin yet, YES, there are some out there that are very thin, but the odds are in your favor that the paint is plenty thick to polish. I wouldnt be worried about the thickness of the paint for compounding. The reason i recommended a MF cutting pad and FG400 is because for YOUR application, using the machine you are using, its going to be easier to get a decent amount of cut, and since you said the paint was jacked, youre gonna need some cut. Using a MF cutting pad will make the most of the power a PC has and will also maintain cut for more sections which will save you time. If you want to cut less, you can always reduce the amount of pressure or speed you are using if you feel that "full throttle" is too much. I think youll find the MF cutting pad is what is needed.

The reason i suggested Sonax Brilliant shine detailer as a topper is because it is a very cheap and easy way to make BFWD MUCH more hydrophobic. BFWD, as a conventional sealant, WILL sheet and bead water well, but not nearly as well as a wax or coating. BFWD, like most conventional sealants, is more likely to spot from hard water. Increasing the ability to repel water/dirt will help in many ways, including washing, drying and staying spot free. Go ahead and use your BFWD, after its fully cured, just go over the car with SBSD and youll love the beading action.

Drying- Pool the water, follow with a leaf blower then follow that up with a medium napped MF towel and QD. Its important to use a QD to lubricate the drying surface to avoid dry friction which can induce marring.



Looks good man, i would get the blue pad instead of the green, blue will finish down better on that paint. MF cutting and FG400, followed by SF4500 on blue pad.



Pooling water is easy. Just use an open ended hose a low pressure. The secret is in your LSP. BFWD will sheet water very well, once you top it with Sonax BSD, itll sheet REALLY well lol, any droplets left over will blow off easy with the leaf blower.

MTI and UWW are two completely different products. MTI is an IPA substitute/paint cleanser. MTI will clean the surface better than IPA will and is "safer" on paint than IPA is (although IPA is plenty safe if properly diluted). If you want to save money, use 91% IPA diluted 1:4 (4 parts distilled water) for the inspection after compounding, and use the MTI for the final wipedown. That will insure all polishing oils are gone and BFWD will adhere correctly.

UWW is a waterless wash/quick detailer/clay lube. Its AWESOME. It makes a great clay lube, drying aide, QD- everything, and its CHEAP because you dilute it. I would absolutely recommend you buy some, it will save you a ton in the long run.
I can't seem to find UWW on DetailersDomain? Is it over on ChemicalGuys?

I'll try the pooling water deal again, does it work just as well with towel/MF drying? I don't have a leaf blower lol.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevey92 View Post
Just get the uww, you'll thank us later. I use it for literally everything, around the house too. And like modded said if you haven't gotten a lot of water off with pooling then your stream is too strong or you have NO lsp on the car.

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Will do, Lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyboy281 View Post
There are many scenarios to keep in mind, since he doesn't have a PTG he has no clue how much clear has degraded over the years if it was minimal or if it was a bit more severe. He did state this was a 2003 thats 10+ years and who knows if it was garage kept or even protected at all through out those 10 years. I do still suggest he at least try out what I told him just to see what results he gets before he hits it with the microfiber pads and FG400 even if he is using a pc. Im not saying your method is incorrect I just believe he should try a lesser abrasive combination first. I do find top inspection to be easier to work with and takes less wipes to remove compound/polish residue than different dilutions of IPA & distilled water on soft clears, for moderate to hard clears I stick with IPA since its cheaper.

As for the order it looks good to me I would pick up 2 more green pads since you stated you already have orange and blues. Let us know if you have any more questions. I hope you have approriate lighting as well that is always a must. As for Top inspection I wouldn't use it as a Quick detailer but rather solely to remove polish residue. Invest in Ultima waterless wash plus concentrate and a few gallons of distilled water for that.
So I will be ok to tackle the car with a wash, clay, and M105 this weekend to see how much correction I get out of it? If nothing else, strip it down and go at it with FG400 and a MF pad for a "better" cut?

This car does stay outside so if I find that the m105 isn't going to do the task can I throw some Meguiars QD on it over the compound to protect it until the following week or should I go ahead and polish it, seal it, and wax it? I don't have a good idea of how to leave a car "safetly" until I get back to it seeing as though I am gone during the week..

Usually I just go at it until I am done, whether its 19+ hrs..

As for lighting I have some badass halogen lights that do a damn good job of showing all the scratches, marring, orange peel what have you...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ModdedMach View Post
Trying the least aggressive method possible is always a great idea. Judging by the machine he is using, the described condition of the paint, and my own personal experience with the same paint, i dont think FG400 on a green pad is going to be as productive as a Mf cutting pad. Not so much that it wont have the cut to yield a decent result, more so that it wont maintain the cut as well as MF will, which will take more time, more pad washing, ect.

The real question is, what correction rate is the goal? If he doesnt care to remove more than 70-80% of defects, than green is the pad of choice, surely.

Its just in my nature to want to correct as much as possible, and in this case its gonna be 2 steps either way, so i just suggested the method that i think will yield the best result, based on my personal experience.
The goal for the car is to get this bish back to where it should be, I.E I will spend 20+ hours a weekend for weeks if that's what needs to happen.. I am a perfectionist and will do what's necessary to get it where it needs to be. If you could see my car in person it'd be an indication.. I kind of fell out of this detailing deal because it got so expensive but I am ready to step back into the game



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post #20 of 85 Old December 13th, 2013, 01:28 AM
It'll buff out...
 
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Ultima waterless wash is made by Ultima. I thought it was on DD, but you can get it on autoality.com, orders over 25$ and under five pounds get free shipping. As fir drying....

Start with the pooling rinse, from top to bottom, the water should sheet away at least 30-40% of the standing water.. if you got the car fairly clean.
Then leaf blower, open your doors and pop your trunk and lift up the decklid. Blow out ever crack and crevice, emblems, lights, grilles etc. Until it's almost totally dry.

Then follow up with a qd and soft clean dry mf towel. Ultima waterless wash is perfect, absolutely perfect for drying because it's super slick, you don't have to use much, just two or three sprays on the towel and wipe back and forth, no circles. After you wipe the water off the panel you then have to either grab a new towel, or flip to a dry side ans buff away the thin film of protection the Ultima left behind.

Edit: essentially, you want to remove as much water off the car as possible WITHOUT touching it. Drying the car is where the most scratches occur usually because of unsafe methods. That being said, if I'm going to correct the car, I don't go crazy trying to not put some tiny scratches in the paint that I'm going to remove anyway, just the way I am lol.



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