4 Banger Spring set up - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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4 Banger Spring set up

I want to know who has done this and does it work... the 4 banger srpings in the front and the fox body v8 springs in the rear.. and what elver else u did if u have this set up.. let me know some info on it.. thanks alot
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post #2 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 02:03 PM
 
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4 banger springs? explain.......
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post #3 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 02:13 PM
 
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I have the 4 cylinder springs in the back and kept the 8 cylinder springs in the front. I think this setup is better for weight distribution. It also gives it a nice ride height.
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post #4 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 04:33 PM
 
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Gt springs(v8 model) are a heavier duty spring. for when the power hits the wheels it doesn't hurt the drivetrain. Putting lower quality springs under a V8 engine is risking suspension failure when you get on it, and put the torque to the road. If you have a fox body like mine, with the v8 in it the front(with heavier duty springsv8 model) the front sits lower then the back. You can either go out and buy gt model or heavy duty springs for the back that are allready lowered or take a torch to your old ones(if done right) and compress the old v8 springs to the right ride hieght. Never would i suggest. putting Lower quality springs on a high torque car.

In fact i am in the process of getting heavy duty lowering springs for my fox body
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post #5 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 04:49 PM
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First, the type of springs you run has nothing to do with your drivetrain. Second, don't ever cut springs with a torch. The heating springs will weaken them.

4 cylinder front springs and V8 rear springs cut 1 coil is a good low cost alternative to more expensive drag springs. The ride quality will be similar to stock but with a lowered look and good weight transfer for the drag strip. Cut the springs with a cutoff wheel or a hacksaw. The more you cut the stiffer the effective spring rate becomes, so it's best to cut as little as possible.

You'd think that if this setup was bad for a car, then it wouldn't do a Video of 1.56 60' in route to an 11.47 @ 121mph.

My suspension setup:
Fox Body 4cyl front springs, V8 rear
Strange 10-way struts (fox body)
Monroe Sensi-trac shocks (fox body)
no front swaybar or rear quad shocks (fox body)
31 spline Strange Axles and Explorer Carrier
Boxed Upper/Lower Control Arms
CGS Subframe Connectors
4.10 gears

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post #6 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 05:03 PM
 
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I was saying if you put 4 cyl springs on the back of the foxbody and then get on the gas you could twist your drivetrain. (axel, driveshaft, on and so fourth) and not once did i say cut the springs with a torch. I said you can heat them up not in one spot but the whole spring with the weight of the car and it will compress. after doing that and letting it cool down for a day the metal does not weakin it just compresses the spring. (I am a welder).

Not smart to cut springs either. They are set at a certain degree, and positioned in a specific way on the readend. Cutting them if not done without a very good way of measuring them. Could result in a bad spring, poor ride, and better yet poor weight distribution.

You have 4 cyl front springs yet the rest of your mods make up for the ride quality. Its different if you have 4cyl springs with stock shocks, struts sway bars.
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post #7 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 05:23 PM
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We're referring to 4cyl springs on the front, not rear. The thread starter is also referring to a late model Mustang, not a Fox.

Cutting the bottom of the spring will not affect the way you install a spring on the front, on the rear however yes you should be careful and cut in halves (as in 1/2 coil increments) so that you can have the bottom coil face the right way when installed.

You want to cut the spring with a torch, or heat it or whatever - go ahead do what you want. Theirs debate as to whether heating a spring in just a small section has an effect on the spring or not, but either way theirs doubt. Cutting a spring with a cutoff wheel is a surefire safe way to do it since your cutting dead coils only.

And last, for ride quality, I don't even have a swaybar and the shocks and struts I run aren't any better than stock for ride quality concerns. I'm simply saying I did not notice a difference in a spring vs spring comparison for anything other than lowering the car and keeping the same ride.
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post #8 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 05:34 PM
 
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I understand what you are saying. I guess it all comes down to preference. I don't cut springs at all, every car i have lowered. Its either they buy new springs allready lowered or they ask me to heat the whole spring up and compress it. oh well.

Late models might be different. I try to focus on older models like 64 1/2 (worked on my uncles) to Fox body.

One tip yeah don't ever heat a spring in one section, heat up 3/4 of it, or alittle less. Watched a buddy snap one bein an idiot. So i do agree there is debate.

I wanted to say tho thats a nice Blue Stang. Sharp...
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post #9 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 07:47 PM
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Thanks for the compliment. It's always great to have a debate. Someone asked for a full video via pm:

11.47 @ 120.58
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post #10 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 08:20 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivoronte
I was saying if you put 4 cyl springs on the back of the foxbody and then get on the gas you could twist your drivetrain. (axel, driveshaft, on and so fourth) .....
The 4 cyl springs are the same quality as the GT springs, just a smaller coil diameter which just give them a softer spring rate. The use of these springs on the back won't twist anything in the rear axle components. They WILL allow weight transfer to the rear of the car which will help plant the tires. I know of a lot of 9 and 10 sec foxes running big blocks using these springs with no problems whatsoever.
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post #11 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 10:04 PM
 
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In my experiences, thats what i have seen. We allready proved that their are different theories here on what might happen case settled. Who knows it could even be debated that if a stock v8 rearend with quad shocks might be fine and without quads might twist.

Debates gotta love the shit
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post #12 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 10:07 PM
 
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Damn nice vid Dosta
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post #13 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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The 4 cyl springs are the same quality as the GT springs, just a smaller coil diameter which just give them a softer spring rate. The use of these springs on the back won't twist anything in the rear axle components. They WILL allow weight transfer to the rear of the car which will help plant the tires. I know of a lot of 9 and 10 sec foxes running big blocks using these springs with no problems whatsoever.[/quote]

well we are not talking about putting the 4 banger springs on the rear anyways.. we are talking about putting fox V8 springs on the rear and 4 banger springs on the front!!
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post #14 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 10:17 PM
 
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Put the 4cyl springs on the front. They'll be fine. Everyone here makes a great point, from rear to front coil springs. Show some pics when your done man
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post #15 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 10:22 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdvaldosta
Thanks for the compliment. It's always great to have a debate. Someone asked for a full video via pm:

11.47 @ 120.58
What a great video

I guess it all boils down to what you use the car for. Mine is all track and I use the 4's out back and stock 8's up front with a small block.
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post #16 of 25 Old January 29th, 2006, 10:42 PM
 
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awesome vid man. loved it.
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post #17 of 25 Old January 30th, 2006, 07:23 AM
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The type of spring in the rear will have no effect at all on anything twisting. You could run no spring in the rear and still not have a problem with twisting. That is not how the four link suspension works. The spring dampens the up and down movement and that's it. The upper and lower control arms control axle twist. The angle of the upper control arms keep the rear end from moving side to side because they are fighting each other. Factory quad shocks are a band aid cure for wheel hop caused by a poorly designed factory lower control arm. The oval shaped front bushing is the main cause of this. 4 cylinder springs are a whole different topic. A waste of a few hours of labor is all they are, especially in the rear. You do not want a sloppy soft spring in the rear for weight transfer. Yes they will make the car squat but they will also unload the tires. Try this experiment, grab a bathroom scale and a 4 cylinder rear spring and a V8 rear spring. Set one on the scale and push on it. Record the weight. Now put the other one on the scale and push on it and record the weight. Pretend the scale is your tire. Now which spring is putting more weight on the tire? Not the 4 cylinder spring. You can run a 4 cylinder spring in the front and possibly gain something even though it is not as effective as doing it right. However, using 4 cylinder springs in the back will gain you nothing at all besides maybe a bit of wheel hop or tire spin.

As far as heating springs goes, don't be a fool. If you are going to cut them, use a cut off wheel. Heat on a spring kills the spring rate and is dangerous.

My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm....


***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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post #18 of 25 Old January 30th, 2006, 10:20 AM
 
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Darrell has a good point. In my experiences, the front struts play a greater role in weight transfer than anything. The return rate on your front struts can help or hinder your weight transfer to the rear. Stiffer or lighter springs on the front can be used to adjust the return rate but they also have an effect in the opposite direction. Here is what my suspension consists of:

Front:

Monroe struts with 50/50 return rate
SVO Swaybar
Energy Suspension poly bushings


Rear:

Eibach Drag springs
Boxed lower control arms
Adjustable upper control arms
SVO swaybar
Energy Suspension poly bushings
Monroe shocks (not sure what the rate is on these)
SVO axle swap into an 8.8 rear
4:56 gears and full posi rear (not good for street )


Im running 4:56 gears with a T-5 and I can feel the car squat and go on the street. She hooks so good that the body has been twisted on the pillar were the hatch closes. I dont know whether to believe it or not but the guys that had it before me swear up and down that it pulled the front wheel about 2 inches on 2 different track occasions with street tires. If I hadnt driven the car, I probably wouldnt even consider believing it.
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post #19 of 25 Old January 30th, 2006, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivoronte
Put the 4cyl springs on the front. They'll be fine. Everyone here makes a great point, from rear to front coil springs. Show some pics when your done man
I will most def post up some pics when I get done with it! I had no idea that this post was going to pull so much interest lol!!.. I will also run the car with the set up after i get them done and let you all know if it helped at all. Current time to date right now for my car is 14.2 @99.3 2.3 60'. thats on stock gears(3.27s), magnaflow offroad x, bassani catback, mac cold air, steeda tri ax, and street tires not hookin at all!! so we shall see what this set up will do. if all else fales i still will have the stock springs so!! win / loose situation!
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post #20 of 25 Old February 2nd, 2006, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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well the 4 banger front springs are on the way, the granitelli uppers and lowers are on the way, the strange 10 way adjustable shocks/struts are on the way, tunable inductions CAI w/ 85 mm pro m maf flow bench tested to match my car, sat im going to waco,tx to 50resto to pick up the 4.30s, steeda UDs,steeda timing adjuster, oh and allready have a fms hd 11" clutch and the spec aluminum flywheel is on the way as well tomorrow.. so we lookin good!! lol
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