Installing new top Frame ,motor and all 94-01 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 6 Old July 2nd, 2010, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Installing new top Frame ,motor and all 94-01

So yesterday i spent a good 7 hours doing this. So if you're down for it I'm making this post for you. This guide is for if you have a COMPLETE replacement convertible top including frame, pumps, hoses and hydraulics. I got mine from a junkyard for $100 and removed it myself.. get small sandwich bags with labels for your bolts so you don't misplace them.


Lets get started first. Here's My car before

ew

Start removing the back seats by pressing the bottom buttons under the bottom seat about a foot from the edge in towards the seat to unhitch it. theyre snug between the seat and carpet.


The white part is what you press



Next Just pull the bottom seat out sliding the seat belt clips through their respective holes



Now there are two 10 mm screws at the base edge of the back of the backseat.. Remove them



pull the seat upwards and it should come out of the slots the hooks on the top are in

Now where these slits are, goes some plastic pins, pop them out with a flathead or plyers or whatever works.. save them



Inside the door sill at the top should be these two snaps.. also pop them out but you can leave them connected to the sill.



And on the back of this is one snap that loosens with a screwdriver and pops out.. why cant all of these be this way.. don't unscrew it too much or it will seperate the two little pieces.



Now remove the two 10mm bolts holding the top of the seat belt bracket



on the bottom of the seat belt bracket there's one other nut. 13mm



pull up the window weatherstripping for the back window. you only need to remove the inside half.



now were going to remove the metal trim that goes around the entire edge of the convertible. there's two screws that are now accessible by removing the weatherstripping.




And one little one in the back corner



Open the trunk and there's about 8 or 10 more



Shimmy away and the trim should pop straight off

I did this for easy access to what we are about to do
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post #2 of 6 Old July 2nd, 2010, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Put the top up
and remove the vinyl liner that's behind the rear seats by carefully pulling it off these plastic bolts.. a little angular twist helps





Which reveals these



Now you need your 13 mm 12 point only!!!! socket to remove all theres.. there's like 30 all around the edge its time consuming unless you have an angled air compressed socket gun

oh and also that fabric screwed on the right of the picture above is part of the headliner, takes a small t-20 torx. remove that too

remove these snaps and save them there's 3 on each side around the edge behind rear seat windows



On to the frame of the top

there's going to be four of these LARGE torx bolts on the frame inside the car below where the seat belt was bolted in.. remove them [YOU MAY HAVE TO PUT THE TOP UP AND DOWN A FEW INCHES TO ACCESS SOME] (i cant remember torx size I'll post when i find it)

2 in this pic


1 on the hole



and the 1 bottom one connected to the car itself (rusty)



Remove the hydraulic pump

disconnect these clips by pressing where my pointer finger is.. remembering what one goes on top because there's two




remove wire clip that powers the pump. there's a snap in the middle you pry up



now these rubber triangle pieces are in holes in the frame for the pump. shimmy something in the bottom to pry each out one at a time.. if you get frustrated there's always two bolts on the bottom of the little frame you can remove with a wrench



and now there's four of these clips that hold the hydraulic lines to the frame, use your finger to snap them open. also there might be some zip ties.. cut those



LIFT TOP OUT WITH A FRIEND.. VERY HEAVY..
and now your top is out.



reverse the process to get new one in and i hope this helps everyone

here are the results !

Before





After

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post #3 of 6 Old July 9th, 2010, 10:48 AM
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Sticky this?
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post #4 of 6 Old October 31st, 2010, 09:43 PM
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Iv'e done that too. It definately makes for a long day. The only thing i would add is to use some trim adhesive behing the rear panel with those 12 point nuts when you reassemble.

+ rep for the write up.




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post #5 of 6 Old November 16th, 2013, 12:49 AM
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Thumbs down Thank you

I thought I was on my own when it came to replacing my top this weekend. 750 to replace the top or 150 for a new frame and top. It was a no brainer. This thread has saved me so much guessing. Thank, you so much.
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post #6 of 6 Old October 10th, 2018, 03:30 AM
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The torx bit is a T47.
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