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post #1 of 21 Old February 22nd, 2013, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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aluminum polishing

I am polishing a canton reservoir tank. I sanded the aluminum down with 1000/1500/2000/ then 2500 grit sand paper and am polishing it with a mothers power cone. I am using mothers aluminum polish but it isn't getting out the super fine scratches of the 2500 grit. The aluminum is mirroring so I know the polish is doing something, you can just still see very light lines. Am I missing a step, do I need a polishing compound?

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post #2 of 21 Old February 22nd, 2013, 07:14 PM
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Yes, use a polishing compound. It will remove the surface scratches.

Those are so miniscule that a compound will remedy that fairly easily.
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post #3 of 21 Old February 22nd, 2013, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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What kind of compound do you recommend? You can't find crap in this town so I may have to order some.


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post #4 of 21 Old February 22nd, 2013, 08:52 PM
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When you get it where you want it Shelby dog use some Adams metal polish #2 I use it on my blower shines it up amazing !

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post #5 of 21 Old February 22nd, 2013, 11:18 PM
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aluminum polishing

Use some diluted acid and let it set for 20-30 seconds before polishing. It softens the surface slightly to make it easier to polish. You can google it. Tons of info out there.

Experience: owned "Shine Tech" home of "You bring it we bling it."


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post #6 of 21 Old February 23rd, 2013, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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I bought some tripoli and jeweler's rouge from ace. The crap is hard as rock and won't take to the power cone, I can't even cut it with a knife. Is it just bad?


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post #7 of 21 Old February 23rd, 2013, 03:59 PM
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aluminum polishing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelbydog! View Post
I bought some tripoli and jeweler's rouge from ace. The crap is hard as rock and won't take to the power cone, I can't even cut it with a knife. Is it just bad?
It needs some heat to make it soft enough to apply. That's why a polishing wheel is used. They are harder, firmer, and spin faster


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post #8 of 21 Old February 23rd, 2013, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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I bought a wheel and an adapter for my high speed drill. It seems to be working, I just need some free time. Reps to you sir!


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post #9 of 21 Old March 9th, 2013, 03:32 PM
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Vortech V3, Treadstone TR10, Magnapacks/Catted XPipe,Stack 70mm TB/Plenum, 3.73s, 377 RWHP, 370 RWTQ
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post #10 of 21 Old July 27th, 2013, 08:41 PM
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How did it come out? I have 2 canton tanks on the way. The look pretty shiny on the am web site,a lot more so than the morrosso.

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post #11 of 21 Old July 27th, 2013, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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I couldn't get it to "mirror" but it looks pretty good for a beginner :


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post #12 of 21 Old July 27th, 2013, 09:26 PM
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Looks pretty dang good my tanks are a bit smaller might just see how the Adams step 1 and 2 metal polish works.

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post #13 of 21 Old July 27th, 2013, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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I think I might need a finer polish to get it to pop. I was using jewelers rouge and I just can't get there. I don't know if its the particular metal or what. I did my wedding ring with the same stuff and its blingin'


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post #14 of 21 Old August 8th, 2013, 04:18 AM
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To achieve mirror finish you need to go even finer grit sand paper before polishing, 3000 and 3500 and then try polishing

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post #15 of 21 Old August 9th, 2013, 04:25 PM
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I polished up a satin Vortech aftercooler to a mirror like finish with nothing more than 400, 1000 sand paper and Mother's polish applied with a rag and some elbow grease.

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post #16 of 21 Old August 9th, 2013, 08:13 PM
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This is from a friend of mine who has done tons of show worthy jobs and its by far the easiest with best results Ive used.


"I now start by removing any heavy powder coating (if there is any) with aircraft paint stripper, if the exterior casting is really rough such as the upper intake I’ll start sanding w/ 80 first but most pieces I’ll start my sanding with 100 grit sandpaper and then move up to 150 or 180 grit and then 220 grit sandpaper.
I’ll then move to a Ventilated Flap buffing wheel with Emery compound which does all the work of 320 through 600 grit sandpaper or more, and then I’ll buff with the Tripoli with one Spiral Sewn buffing wheel and polish with White Rouge on a different a Spiral Sewn buffing wheel with an electric drill.
Eastwood carries the Ventilated flap #13155 and Emery Compound part # 13134

I’m not saying its right or wrong, but I’ve never wet sanded a part because I didn’t like dealing with the mess, however I do use wet/dry sand paper though.

If you choose to buy the eastwood kit Part # 13149 which I would highly recommend,
the kit come with everything you would need to sand with in those hard to reach areas, besides the compounds to buff and polish with.
I would suggest and that’s all it is a suggestion if you decide to buy from eastwood these are the other items I would purchase."

(1) 1-High speed Mandrel ” x6” # 13141
(2) 2 - 6” Spiral Sewn Buffing wheels # 13034
(3) 1- 10 pack of Taper Sanding Rolls 120 grit # 13088 A
(4) 1- 10 pack of Taper Sanding Rolls 240 grit # 13086 A
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post #17 of 21 Old August 9th, 2013, 08:16 PM
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I just used Adams 1 and 2 pretty damn simple and enough shine for me
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post #18 of 21 Old August 9th, 2013, 08:39 PM
It'll buff out...
 
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Don't forget to seal it with a good paint or metal sealant to keep it crisp! Looks great!

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post #19 of 21 Old August 9th, 2013, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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I'm working on some drag wheels I got in less than shiny shape. I'm using some cotton wheels and its mirroring nicely. I couldn't get the wheels to mirror with mothers so I went to a trucking supply store and picked up this: WICKED ALUMAG CHROME POLISH 1x16floz.

It blows mothers away.


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post #20 of 21 Old August 9th, 2013, 10:11 PM
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Also dog check out the Adams line really good safe stuff. I found it beacuse it's the only metal polish kenne bell will reccomend you use on there polished blower really safe.

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