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post #1 of 19 Old May 17th, 2015, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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JVC error and speakers no playing

I have a 1992 mustang LX, not using any factory amp.


Just all of a sudden my JVC head unit gave me "miswiring error check wires then reset radio"

I reset radio, no change.

I unplugged all of my front and rear speaker wires, reset radio, turned on, no error message and my subwoofer is working. I then plugged in speakers one at a time and everything works good. But about the time it took me to tape all of the connections back up all of my speakers turned off except for my subwoofer. I turned off the radio and turned back on and the error message came back up.

Not sure what to do next. I've looked at my wiring behind stereo and no cut or pinches going on.

I didn't change anything like pull a door panel off or move anything to cause a change.


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post #2 of 19 Old May 17th, 2015, 11:12 AM
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Is there a fuse on the head unit? Check that and see if it's blown. If it is I've never seen it happen but they're there for a reason.

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post #3 of 19 Old May 17th, 2015, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Wait a second..... It may be my right front speaker wiring.....


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post #4 of 19 Old May 17th, 2015, 11:45 AM
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Make sure the speaker isn't grounding out on the door frame especially if it's aftermarket. Check the wiring leading to the terminals and the terminals themselves.


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post #5 of 19 Old May 17th, 2015, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Very weird.... I narrowed it down to the right front door speaker. Pulled it off. Tried another speaker, worked good, no errors. For giggles I plugged original door speaker in and it's working great.

How could a speaker be grounding itself to the frame?


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post #6 of 19 Old May 17th, 2015, 12:20 PM
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JVC error and speakers no playing

It was just a suggestion but when I used to manage installs and do them as well at best buy there would be times where customers would come back and have a problem with a speaker going out and going into "safe mode" or any variation of the sort. Upon further troubleshooting, and already our common knowledge, we would find a speaker we replaced grounding out at the frame of the door. Sometimes it would be the wire and then sometimes it would be the speaker terminals themselves hitting the chassis ever so slightly. Aftermarket speakers don't have the same type of connectors factory does so they are open to anything that may come in contact with it.
That's assuming you have aftermarket. That being said, the following can be used in stock or aftermarket speakers: pull the HU and clip the right front speaker wires, gray IIRC, and see what happens. If it still cuts off then you know that's not the problem and then try the other speakers until you've ruled them all out. If it doesn't then you know where to look and then can go from there to troubleshoot. Pull on wires at the door jam, hit the door with an open palm around the speaker, etc. your trying to remake the problem to see where it is isolated at.


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---------- Post added at 11:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:15 AM ----------

Also, how did you wire the speakers in? Did you use a harness that adapts to the factory one or did you just splice into it. If you spliced into it did you make sure to check which one was negative and which one was positive? A speaker being "out of phase" negative going to positive and vice versa can have the same effect.


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post #7 of 19 Old May 17th, 2015, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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JVC error and speakers no playing

Quote:
Originally Posted by wraitherx View Post
It was just a suggestion but when I used to manage installs and do them as well at best buy there would be times where customers would come back and have a problem with a speaker going out and going into "safe mode" or any variation of the sort. Upon further troubleshooting, and already our common knowledge, we would find a speaker we replaced grounding out at the frame of the door. Sometimes it would be the wire and then sometimes it would be the speaker terminals themselves hitting the chassis ever so slightly. Aftermarket speakers don't have the same type of connectors factory does so they are open to anything that may come in contact with it.
That's assuming you have aftermarket. That being said, the following can be used in stock or aftermarket speakers: pull the HU and clip the right front speaker wires, gray IIRC, and see what happens. If it still cuts off then you know that's not the problem and then try the other speakers until you've ruled them all out. If it doesn't then you know where to look and then can go from there to troubleshoot. Pull on wires at the door jam, hit the door with an open palm around the speaker, etc. your trying to remake the problem to see where it is isolated at.


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---------- Post added at 11:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:15 AM ----------

Also, how did you wire the speakers in? Did you use a harness that adapts to the factory one or did you just splice into it. If you spliced into it did you make sure to check which one was negative and which one was positive? A speaker being "out of phase" negative going to positive and vice versa can have the same effect.


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Thanks alot!


Everything is aftermarket. PO hacked up the factory harnesses so I'm just running the factory wires hooked up to the head unit directly with no harnesses. (This was a real PIA researching wiring schematics and testing what factory wires are what).

I'm not using any special brackets for my speaker connections, just the normal speaker terminals.

I think I have my negative and positive wires correct by using wiring diagrams and then verifying the sound quality once hooked up. (Fwiw, I THINK I noticed a small difference when they were backwards, but not sure either)


I diagnosed it to where it is my right front door speaker. It's weird that it won't cause the error code right off, it would seem like the head unit would have to warm up first.


Anyways, I never saw any issues as far as wires or speaker hitting door frame or anything. But it's all working ok.

I almost wish I found something "broke" then I'd know I fixed something. With me finding no issue and it working means it may happen again.



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post #8 of 19 Old May 17th, 2015, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narleycarley View Post
Thanks alot!


Everything is aftermarket. PO hacked up the factory harnesses so I'm just running the factory wires hooked up to the head unit directly with no harnesses. (This was a real PIA researching wiring schematics and testing what factory wires are what).

I'm not using any special brackets for my speaker connections, just the normal speaker terminals.

I think I have my negative and positive wires correct by using wiring diagrams and then verifying the sound quality once hooked up. (Fwiw, I THINK I noticed a small difference when they were backwards, but not sure either)


I diagnosed it to where it is my right front door speaker. It's weird that it won't cause the error code right off, it would seem like the head unit would have to warm up first.


Anyways, I never saw any issues as far as wires or speaker hitting door frame or anything. But it's all working ok.

I almost wish I found something "broke" then I'd know I fixed something. With me finding no issue and it working means it may happen again.



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No problem at all. If it does happen again in the future just try the methods I mentioned and you should be able to figure it out. Some people can hear that a speaker is "out of phase" while some can't. The fact that you can hear a slight difference means that you can so that's a good thing. As long as you followed the schematics for your car you should be fine hopefully it doesn't reoccur.





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post #9 of 19 Old May 19th, 2015, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well crap, drive the car to work today and about 15 minutes into the drive it did it again.

I've noticed that when it does it the back end of the head unit is very warm. Any chance the head unit is shorting out?


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post #10 of 19 Old May 19th, 2015, 08:55 PM
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Shorting out would be more prevalent to just about anything bumps, closing the door, etc. It sounds as if it could be overheating. Drive around with the deck out and see if that does anything. If anything else do what I mentioned and start troubleshooting.


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post #11 of 19 Old May 19th, 2015, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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I will troubleshoot it again, working 7 12s on nights makes it a pain to with in anything.

When I thought i had it fixed the he other day, the head unit was out, not installed and I let it play with the car turned off.

Today was car running, head unit installed, so it should be warmer.


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post #12 of 19 Old May 20th, 2015, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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I think I found out the culprit. There were some crappy connections going on at the kick panel by the computer.

I figured out a trick. Once you narrow down which pair of speaker wires is grounded out, just connect the positive wire with the radio on. If it's a constant ground then the speaker will play and then you can physically trace the wires back and when you find the grounded spot and pull the wire away from the ground then the speaker stops playing.


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post #13 of 19 Old May 20th, 2015, 03:10 PM
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Yup, that does the trick. I knew it was a speaker grounding out. Glad you got it figured out. Was new wiring run to the speakers or was it the stock wires grounding out?

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post #14 of 19 Old May 20th, 2015, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Stock wires, the PO used the heat shrink wrap for his connections,

I will be running all new wires later in life.


On my to do list for this car is to totally redo the sound system. Different head unit so I can run amps for front, rear, and subwoofer, all new speaker wires, component speaker for the dash and door setup, and redo my 8" sub setup and go with a 10" or 12"


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post #15 of 19 Old May 20th, 2015, 06:49 PM
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Ah I see. Did he at least solder the connections? Sounds like you've got your system figured out. Are you going for sound competitions or anything? Just curious as to why you would replace the wires for the speakers. For competition it is good to replace with thicker gauge wiring the can properly conduct sound and energy to get maximum output but for a system that your average person would build its completely in necessary and a waste of time and money. The difference you would notice between the both you will never be able to tell and only properly built systems would be able to use it to its full potential. Just a though for you. When you get to running your 4 ch for your speakers I can tell you a trick on how to avoid running wires from behind your deck to your amp. I could either tell you or you can look some of my older posts in the audio section. If you ever need any help just let me know.


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post #16 of 19 Old May 20th, 2015, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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I'll go research that stuff, unless you just feel like typing more. =)


No, not completion, just trying to have a good sounding system. Main push for new wires is 1. since I will be installing amps in the rear underneath deck lid, I have to re run some for that. And 2. like this current issue, I have lots of potential wire gremlins I havn't found yet.


The PO just used heat shrink wrap, no crimp connections or soldering, JUST heat shrink wrap.




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post #17 of 19 Old May 20th, 2015, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
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I'll go research that stuff, unless you just feel like typing more. =)


No, not completion, just trying to have a good sounding system. Main push for new wires is 1. since I will be installing amps in the rear underneath deck lid, I have to re run some for that. And 2. like this current issue, I have lots of potential wire gremlins I havn't found yet.


The PO just used heat shrink wrap, no crimp connections or soldering, JUST heat shrink wrap.

Lol. When you come to that point shoot me a PM and I can walk you through it. I always hated going behind someone else's installs that I didn't know. Crap like that is always frustrating. I figured that they didn't solder it. Most people think shrink wrap will do the trick when that's not its intended purpose to hold wires. Ignorance is bliss as they say. If you have any more problems just shoot me a PM and we'll get it straightened out.


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post #18 of 19 Old May 21st, 2015, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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Lol. When you come to that point shoot me a PM and I can walk you through it. I always hated going behind someone else's installs that I didn't know. Crap like that is always frustrating. I figured that they didn't solder it. Most people think shrink wrap will do the trick when that's not its intended purpose to hold wires. Ignorance is bliss as they say. If you have any more problems just shoot me a PM and we'll get it straightened out.


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I sure will.

I use a lot of crimp connections. They haven't done me wrong as far as I know. And behind the head unit I like using the spade male and female connections so that way if I need to swap out or change wiring there is no cutting wiring.



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post #19 of 19 Old May 21st, 2015, 08:36 AM
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I sure will.

I use a lot of crimp connections. They haven't done me wrong as far as I know. And behind the head unit I like using the spade male and female connections so that way if I need to swap out or change wiring there is no cutting wiring.



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Crimps are a good way to go only as long as your crimp them right. Lol. Yup... There is a wrong and right way to crimp. Spades are always a good way to go in case you need to make any changes of some sort like you said.



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