How I'm Already Improving My Ride Quality - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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Old April 9th, 2012, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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How I'm Already Improving My Ride Quality

So...

There are a lot of DD drivers out there like me who rarely or never see the track and their car rides like a dump truck on wagon wheels. About every few weeks I also see peeps asking how to improve their ride quality and they are usually told to get new shocks, struts, less harsh lowering springs, it's a Mustang, or to buy a BMW/Cadillac.

This is usually correct, but if you are like me and 80% after a smooth ride and looking good, and 20% about handling and turning better than stock, then go and get OEM Rubber Bushings and suspension components.

The stock rubber bushings wear out drastically overtime. Usually people swap out to polyurethane for better handling, but ride suffers.

I decided to start doing some research to locate and swap out all my bushings for new rubber ones. So far I've replaced the ones on my steering rack, front sway bar, and as a bonus replaced the end-links...

HOLY SHIT WHAT A F***IN DIFFERENCE. Girlfriend quotes "100% Better."

In Mustang talk I'm no longer scared of small pot holes, sewer covers, or poorly patched roads.

Here's what I bought and swapped out. I couldn't find Rubber Bushings anywhere online so I got them from the dealership.

For 99-04 Mustangs at least. The pictures provided below I pulled offline:

(4) OEM Rubber Steering Rack Bushings: Part#: E5DZ-3F640-B

(2) OEM Rubber Front Sway Bar Bushings: Part#: XR3Z-5493-EA

(2) Front Sway Bar Endlinks: Part#: F6ZZ-5K483-BA ***NOTE:Each set only came with two links, so I had to pick out and re-use two of my old ones. I placed those on the top and bottom, and used the new links in the middle.***



I spent a total of $88.35 for the 8 pieces.

The install process wasn't too hard. The most time was figuring out where the 13mm bolt was on the steering rack to pull out the rack. The end links we're shot to hell, sway bar bushings were stretched and one was ripped, and the steering back bushings were hard as rocks.

Here's the install guide I used for the steering rack: I DID NOT shorten the metal sleeve. I tightened each bushing back down to 40lbs.
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/rack.htm

Here's the link that I used to narrow down the bushings in the front suspension, except in this case I ignored the written content about switching to poly or solid bushings.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/52.shtml

I want to do the front control arms too, but that will have to wait until I slap on the coilovers since I don't want to get an alignment twice.

Next is to take a crack at replacing the Rear LCA's and UCA's with new rubbers and while I'm at it get new quad shocks.

The overall plan is to give a lot of the ride quality back and then take away some when I lower the car. Hopefully I won't end up where I started when I'm done.

The Give:
-Replace all Bushings with new Rubber, replace endlinks and quad shocks:
(4) Front Contol Arm Bushings
(4) Steering Rack Bushings (DONE)
(2) Front SwayBar Endlinks (DONE)
(2) Front Sway Bar Bushings (DONE)
(4) Rear LCA Bushings
(4 or 8 possibly) Upper Control Arm Bushings. They may be 2 pieces per housing.
(2) Rear Quad Shocks (DONE)
-Lube inside Tie-Rod end boots with all purpose lithium grease (DONE)

Already had these but just wanted to verify I did shocks before this project
-Tokico Blues in the front with Tokico D-Specs in the Back


The Take:
UPR Front Coilovers with a significant drop on 12-175, 12-200, or 10 by something...still doing the research on best ride with greatest drop.
Eibach Rear Lowering Springs or some linear spring brand and possible cutting coils. I do not want rear coilovers.

Let's see if this works. I'm excited to see what ride I get back replacing 12 year old bushings and components, and I hope this helps other DD drivers with the same goals as me get their ride quality back.

-Rich



1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 Classic - New modder
2000 Mustang GT - SOLD (I will have another one day)

Last edited by Bangarang; April 19th, 2012 at 06:23 PM.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Amongst the massive research I've been doing and wanting an immediate quick fix in ride I decided to replace my Quad Shocks next. The original plan was the get at the rear bushings but with the complications I've been running into finding rubber replacements, and the want to replace some parts over the weekend I decided to order a pair of Gabriel 14039 Steering Dampers from Amazon for a whopping total of $44.94. The improvement was definitely noticed. Paired with the stock LCAs (with shot bushings still) there is no more wheel hop, it takes bumps a little better, and it feels more planted in the back.

Ride has improved even more and I've only spent $133.29 thus far.

The Install:
Easy Swap Out, jacked up the rear, removed the tire and swapped out the shocks.

Make sure you reuse or replace the washer where the shock attached to the frame so the bushings won't warp when you torque them down. I found new washers in my toolbox that fit perfectly. Torque specs for both ends are 57-75lbs. I torqued them at 60lbs.

Old compared to new:


The initial install:


Reinstall with the washers:


Like I said pretty straightforward and simple.

The complications for the rear bushings is that I can't find replacement rubbers for the bushings that are pressed into the control arms. For the non-pressed I found replacements for the Upper Control Arm Axel/Differential Bushings for $35 a pair:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=543

And to determine if I REALLY want to fork out $220 for new upper control arms to get those new rubber bushings...
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=544

The only Lower Replacement Bushings I can find are the 5A638 oval bushings for the upper ear of the axle housing at the stealership for $100 each...WTF. I need to get under there and check, but I really hope that I am wrong and those bushings are circular and not oval, which will put the cost at $33.98 each from the stealership which is affordable.

This is where I am at right now with this "ride quality" project.

Though I keep changing my mind on what to next, anything I do will result in a noticeable improvement.

-Rich



1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 Classic - New modder
2000 Mustang GT - SOLD (I will have another one day)

Last edited by Bangarang; April 19th, 2012 at 05:23 PM.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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11/21/12: Sorry for the long delay. I was beautifully side swiped by a ford explorer and my ride was totaled out. Since it was only body damage (thank god) I decided to repair the car to get it back on the road, and finally back to the ride.
Boo Boo's:


Rebuild (I'll have a thread link here):
Donor Fender:

Kicked out the quarter panel with some steel toes

Alignment with my assistance (car was too low to adjust CC plates )
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________________________________

Anyways I decided the next step was to completed the Front Control Arm Bushings, X-2 Ball Joints and Rotors. I guess I will mention rotors since they improve ride breaking and you might as well replace them now if needed.

1) Jack-up car and remove tires. Make sure you use jack stands for safety:

2) Remove brake calipers by unscrewing the 2 13mm bolts and the 2 15mm holding the caliper to the spindle. Then remove your rotor:

3) Place a jack stand under the control arm and remove the one 24mm bolt that holds the ABS sensor bracket and the two 21mm bolts holding the shock. Remove the ABS sensor as well:

For further detail you can refer to the link below. This is almost a similar process to replacing shocks:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.html
4) Remove the bottom endlink bolt. I believe this is a 13mm.

5) Commentary to arrive soon:

6)Slowly lower the jack stand to lower the control arm and remove the spring. To get to this step would be similar to installing new springs:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/7904-l...tall-cust.html
7) Commentary to come:

It could be because I shop only online and this is my first time doing this, but the bushings are A LOT bigger than I had thought. Definitely inspecting an improvement sheerly because of this realization:

8) Commentary to come:

9) Still working on it!:



1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 Classic - New modder
2000 Mustang GT - SOLD (I will have another one day)

Last edited by Bangarang; November 22nd, 2012 at 12:59 AM.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Reserved for Additional Commentary 3.



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Old April 11th, 2012, 11:28 PM
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nice
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Old April 16th, 2012, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks man.



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Old April 16th, 2012, 09:15 PM
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I like your approach for DD but looks like your car is already dropped???

98gt, pi intake, jlt cai, flowmasters, black bullits, angel eyes, hurst comp-plus, custom hpipe, drilled & slotted rotors, eibach sportlines, 373gears
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Old April 17th, 2012, 01:34 AM
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^ +1

Also...pic!

ho chit, and the shoe sting begins!

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Old April 17th, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Nice article...
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Old April 17th, 2012, 08:49 AM
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This will come in handy... PICS!


MAC o/r H, MagnaPack dumps SCT tuner, CAI, short throw shifter, 4-way Bilsteins, H&R SS's, MM CC plates, dash LED conversion

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Old June 17th, 2012, 11:03 PM
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thanks i need this
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Old June 18th, 2012, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangness View Post
thanks i need this
No prob. It's been mad delayed since the car got hit by a truck and totaled out, but at least it was riding smoother when it happened... I got the car back but have to work on a few other things now before I can get back on this. Feel free to share your before and after ride experiences.

I will be tackling the front control arm bushings and ball joints with rubber MOOGs and steeda X2 next. I'll be sure to take a lot of pictures as well.

-Rich



1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 Classic - New modder
2000 Mustang GT - SOLD (I will have another one day)
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Old June 20th, 2012, 06:41 AM
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Nice description. Thanks fir sharing it.
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Old July 25th, 2012, 10:13 AM
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nice! this helps me out alot!

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Old August 14th, 2012, 02:30 AM
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Great info here!
So for someone that knows very little, what would you suggest for ride quality?
Would coil overs be worth it just for ride smoothness?

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Old August 14th, 2012, 08:59 AM
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If you gonna drop that amount of coin for coil overs just for the ride quality just go and buy bilstien shocks and struts, get some nice lowering springs, and make sure you get some nice poly ISOs for the springs and it will ride amazing!

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Old August 14th, 2012, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jf16 View Post
Great info here!
So for someone that knows very little, what would you suggest for ride quality?
Would coil overs be worth it just for ride smoothness?
If you are not worried about going low then no it would not be. Your best bet would be to get under your car and replace those bushings with rubber. I need to update this big time, but so far my biggest improvement has been replacing the front control arm bushings with Rubber MOOGS. You will also notice an improvement replacing your steering racks as well. Should cost you way less than coil overs too. If you do it yourself make sure you have an entire weekend and/or the proper tools.

Next for me is my rear upper control arm bushings. Just need to get that Maximum Motorsports tool, and after that set up an appt to install my FLSFC's.



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Old August 16th, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Alright so no to the coil overs haha. So I was thinking H&R SS springs, Toxico HP shocks and struts,MM FLSFC, MM CC Plates, J&M LCA, and the bushings listed in the OP. Should I get the bushings from rockauto.com?

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Old August 16th, 2012, 07:29 PM
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Thank you so much for this write up this is exactly what I have been looking for as I am tired of gripping the wheel in terror when I see train tracks or potholes in front of me.
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Old August 16th, 2012, 07:43 PM
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subscribed...this should be a sticky!!!! i need to do all of the above work...but need new front a arms first

2014 A6 GT Sterling Gray. SR performance lowering springs, J&M adj. panhard and Stainless power longtubes - o/r x awaiting tuner and install.
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