DiMora's N2MB WOTBOX install thread - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 35 Old June 26th, 2013, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BROK3N View Post
Wonder how this would work with spray for the launch being at full throttle

---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:16 PM ----------



No lift shift means you just keep you gas at full throttle and don't let off when shifting. You still clutch it but instead of the car Revving out when the clutch is in, it will just kill ignition for a split second basically letting you shift a lot faster, it will keep boost up if you have it.

The wot part is you can set X amount of rpms and hold the throttle Down and it will only go to that set rpm. Better launches and you can just keep your foot planted the whole time.
I've been emailing them today to see if it will work in conjunction with a pre installed Zex Window Switch. Only way it would work is if the Window Switch or NMU is wired to the clutch pedal. So that's a negative.

They do however offer there own Nitrous Add on Window Switch for $65. So for under 300 you can have the WOTBOX and WOT box Window Switch which will indeed kill the nitrous on clutch pedal and RPM. However I am waiting for a reply to know for sure there window switch will work with the Zex NMU. Guide shows a lot of straight to solenoid stuff. I will update you when they reply to me.

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post #22 of 35 Old June 26th, 2013, 06:01 PM
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Simply amazing! Made my decision to go ahead and get it and install it. Will go great with the M/T I have on my car.



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post #23 of 35 Old June 26th, 2013, 06:53 PM
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totally might buy one just for funzies...
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post #24 of 35 Old June 26th, 2013, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirShaun View Post
I've been emailing them today to see if it will work in conjunction with a pre installed Zex Window Switch. Only way it would work is if the Window Switch or NMU is wired to the clutch pedal. So that's a negative.

They do however offer there own Nitrous Add on Window Switch for $65. So for under 300 you can have the WOTBOX and WOT box Window Switch which will indeed kill the nitrous on clutch pedal and RPM. However I am waiting for a reply to know for sure there window switch will work with the Zex NMU. Guide shows a lot of straight to solenoid stuff. I will update you when they reply to me.
What if you setup the window switch at say 3500rpms then set the wot box to hold rev at 3000. Really you wouldn't be getting power to the NMU until it got the 3500 still allowing you to launch right.

The skip shift prob wouldn't work and I don't feel like thinking right now. Lol

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post #25 of 35 Old June 27th, 2013, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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totally might buy one just for funzies...
Do it. You won't be disappointed.


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post #26 of 35 Old June 27th, 2013, 09:35 AM
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That is sweet!



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post #27 of 35 Old June 27th, 2013, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BROK3N View Post
What if you setup the window switch at say 3500rpms then set the wot box to hold rev at 3000. Really you wouldn't be getting power to the NMU until it got the 3500 still allowing you to launch right.

The skip shift prob wouldn't work and I don't feel like thinking right now. Lol
You could definitely use it as long as your Launch RPM and WOT Shifting RPM is outside of your Nitrous Window. My only concern is if I ever went to the track on a tire and wanted to launch at lets say 5000 rpm.

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post #28 of 35 Old June 27th, 2013, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DiMora View Post
The two-step only activates if you floor it with the clutch on the floor. You could put it in neutral, let the clutch all the way out, and rev it to red-line if you wanted to.



I'm an airline pilot and my car is a toy and hobby.



About two or three hours, which includes jacking up the car, removing the RF wheel, splash-guard, all soldering and re-taping of wiring harnesses, and programming. I took my time and was slow and methodical. Keep in mind I have been soldering for years, so the electrical and soldering was very easy for me.



Two things:

1) "Two-Step" (launch control) - With clutch all the way pressed, you can program an RPM to hold for launch. Floor the gas and it goes BAP BAP BAP BAP BAP BAP at whatever RPM you programmed - it does this by cutting ignition. When you release the clutch, it revs freely.

2) Wide Open Throttle (WOT) shifting. Program it (via laptop) with a rev limit. This limiter will be independent of the car's PCM RPM limit! When you are shifting, you can hold the accelerator on the floor, and when you push the clutch in, it signals the WOTBOX to activate the ignition cut-out at the programmed RPM...it goes BAP BAP BAP at that limit while you jam it into the next gear as fast as you can. You can WOT shift without a WOTBOX, but it is very difficult and very hard on your transmission and synchros. With the ignition cut, it it a piece of cake...you can see how fast I shifted a couple of times in those videos and you can hear the BAP BAP BAP briefly as the WOT rev limiter kicks in.

As a side-note, it is the continued fuel flow while ignition is cut that makes the awesome fireballs out the back end. I am busy the next couple of weeks, but when I have more time to play with the car I'll make some more videos with the GoPro, including some tailpipe views.

The hardest part of using it is telling your right leg muscles not to "lift" on the accelerator when WOT shifting...it is a habit built up from 26 years of driving sticks and is VERY hard to overcome. I have to tell my brain to tell my leg to STAND on the gas pedal. In the first video, I lifted slightly on the 1-2 shift. In the second video, I nailed all three at WOT.
I was only saying that all you car work is amazing! i wish i could do it all this here. Congratulations.
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post #29 of 35 Old June 27th, 2013, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DiMora View Post
As a side-note, it is the continued fuel flow while ignition is cut that makes the awesome fireballs out the back end. I am busy the next couple of weeks, but when I have more time to play with the car I'll make some more videos with the GoPro, including some tailpipe
That can't be good for cats. Not the fireballs but the gas.

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post #30 of 35 Old June 28th, 2013, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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That can't be good for cats. Not the fireballs but the gas.
It's not good for them.

Mine are Magnaflow Spun Metallic Substrate cats. They are beefy...but I'll see if they can survive the WOTBOX, LOL.

The ceramic ones die very quickly from what I understand.

I'll inspect them after a bit of WOTBOX use...if they are failing, they will get hollowed out.


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post #31 of 35 Old June 28th, 2013, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiMora View Post
It's not good for them.

Mine are Magnaflow Spun Metallic Substrate cats. They are beefy...but I'll see if they can survive the WOTBOX, LOL.

The ceramic ones die very quickly from what I understand.

I'll inspect them after a bit of WOTBOX use...if they are failing, they will get hollowed out.
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post #32 of 35 Old June 29th, 2013, 02:29 AM
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Great write up. I'll be using this as guidance when I do mine soon.



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post #33 of 35 Old November 11th, 2013, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

After all the reading I have done...I was concerned that my WOTBOX would destroy / clog / wad up my catalytic converter material, so I decided to pull them this last weekend for inspection after having been used with the WOTBOX for a little while.

I would normally post pics or video, but we are talking about looking into the innerds of Magnaflow high-flow spun metallic substrate cats...and as they are no longer new, they are rather dark, so there would not be much to see...so I'll describe what I found and my "upgrades", LOL.

The bottom line is that the epic win that is the power of the N2MB WOTBOX did indeed loosen up the bonding between the driver's side cat outer shell and the inner substrate such that the inner cat material could slide forward and aft inside the cat.



The passenger side was still fully intact.

I decided that my best solution would be to turn my existing setup into a catless setup...so as to avoid the danger of clogged cats and potentially blowing my engine.

So...I used a very long ~ 1/2" diameter masonry drillbit in my Makita hammer drill and drilled many holes through the substrate. Then I used a 3 foot long 3/4" cat iron pipe and pushed it through the middle. I used a small (foot long or so) pry bar to pull the outer periphery material toward the center and then repeated the pipe trick. I also uses dome very long needle-nose pliers to reach in and grab substrate. It took me quite a while...perhaps 2 hours (an hour each) to get them both completely cleaned out.

Since I have decided to keep this midpipe setup permanently, I ditched the ClampCo clamps that were holding my modified "legs" to my cats and I went ahead and welded everything up.

This setup still clamps via ClampCo T-Bolt clamps to my Mac Prochamber, and the other end still has the flared ends that mate to my Mac long-tubes.

I will no longer have to worry about my cats causing a failure. If anyone ever does this mod...(err, destruction) wear quality dust mask (mine is rubber with charcoal filters)...don't just use a dust mask...as the stuff that comes out is a fine powder and I would assume it is rather nasty stuff. I also wore full goggles for eye protection.

So...the car is slightly louder, but not much to be honest. It has a throatier tone now, and - dare I say - I think it might even drone a bit less.

As a refresher, here is what my setup looks like. Again...the T-Bolt clamps are gone and welds are where the clamps once resided:



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post #34 of 35 Old November 11th, 2013, 09:52 PM
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Sir... put down that airplane and get that car to the strip... I am dying to see how much it improves your times.. Nice write up as always.. I B reppin ya



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post #35 of 35 Old November 12th, 2013, 03:23 PM
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Yes! Thanks for the guide and review. I wonder if it would be possible to come up with a version that rev matches downshifts?
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