Alright, I give up on this crap - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 12:43 PM
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lol bigchris, what in your drivetrain DON'T you break?

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post #22 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 01:04 PM
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Why did my clutch fail? I think I did this link correct. I used to have the same issues as u. I read this "why did my clutch fail" and did the steel line it suggests, bought from AM for much less than ford. Put in Prothane mmounts and called Blue collar, they suggested running Dex III instead of synthetic, sometimes synthetic is "too slippery" for tour synchronizers they said. Have never had an issue since, bought the car w/ 70,000 now have 90,000 miles running 380/350 rw hp/tq not saying it will fix u but it worked great for me!
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post #23 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 01:20 PM
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lol bigchris, what in your drivetrain DON'T you break?
The engine *knocks on wood*, I'm on my third trans, third rear, second set of gears, second uca

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post #24 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 01:58 PM
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I second using the correct FORD mercon for these trans. I know tremec recommends Mobil and others have used syncromesh but you never really hear anyone having issues with factory fluid. I personally think too slick a fluid kills the syncros in
these trans
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post #25 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 02:03 PM
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I second using the correct FORD mercon for these trans. I know tremec recommends Mobil and others have used syncromesh but you never really hear anyone having issues with factory fluid. I personally think too slick a fluid kills the syncros in
these trans
No, tremec reccomends syncromesh. Tremec has done the testing on their transmission.

I totally reccomend pennzoil syncromesh


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post #26 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 02:11 PM
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NO they actually recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (ET-M-99) or Dexron III (1300-244-006) Check the Tremec service manual page 8 if you think I am just pulling it out of a hat. http://www.mgsv-club.com/images/pdfs...ice_Manual.pdf
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post #27 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 02:17 PM
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TR-3650 Transmission Fluid - MustangForums.com

Pretty short read

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post #28 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 02:19 PM
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NO they actually recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (ET-M-99) or Dexron III (1300-244-006) Check the Tremec service manual page 8 if you think I am just pulling it out of a hat. http://www.mgsv-club.com/images/pdfs...ice_Manual.pdf
I don't know how old that manual is, but last i checked, they specifically say NOT to use any synthetic fluid.


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post #29 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 02:24 PM
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That is the one that tremec emailed me when I called them and spoke to them on the phone in May. They told me they can't say that other fluids (Royal Purple, Pennz etc) wouldn't work but they didn't specifically test them. If you read what I wrote previously I said "I second using the correct FORD mercon for these trans. I know tremec recommends Mobil and others have used syncromesh but you never really hear anyone having issues with factory fluid. I personally think too slick a fluid kills the syncros inthese trans" basically I don't even think Mobil is a good idea but Tremec backs it up. Funny think is Ford doesn't.
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post #30 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 02:31 PM
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That is the one that tremec emailed me when I called them and spoke to them on the phone in May. They told me they can't say that other fluids (Royal Purple, Pennz etc) wouldn't work but they didn't specifically test them. If you read what I wrote previously I said "I second using the correct FORD mercon for these trans. I know tremec recommends Mobil and others have used syncromesh but you never really hear anyone having issues with factory fluid. I personally think too slick a fluid kills the syncros inthese trans" basically I don't even think Mobil is a good idea but Tremec backs it up. Funny think is Ford doesn't.
I had issues with factory fluid :/

Well, ok. I can't speak for anyone else then, but i had success with syncromesh.


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post #31 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 02:36 PM
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I had issues with factory fluid :/

Well, ok. I can't speak for anyone else then, but i had success with syncromesh.


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Many have had great luck with Syncromesh or Mobil even royal purple. I totally don't doubt you. Cars are like people sometimes they are all a little different even if they are the same make and model. My point to the OP is change the fluid to OE specs install the factory shifter and start from scratch in diagnosing the issue. This way you have a proven and established baseline to judge from. It will make finding the shifting problem easier because it will rule out other possibilities of non proven combos.
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post #32 of 35 Old December 6th, 2013, 03:01 PM
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Many have had great luck with Syncromesh or Mobil even royal purple. I totally don't doubt you. Cars are like people sometimes they are all a little different even if they are the same make and model. My point to the OP is change the fluid to OE specs install the factory shifter and start from scratch in diagnosing the issue. This way you have a proven and established baseline to judge from. It will make finding the shifting problem easier because it will rule out other possibilities of non proven combos.
I could totally agree with that. 1 change at a time, fix it with the factory shifter first.


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post #33 of 35 Old December 7th, 2013, 04:33 AM
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This is what the problem is on the GT500's with the 1-2 lockout/grind. When shifting at high RMP or spinning the wheels, the wheels are spinning faster than the shaft speed in the trans causing uneven speed matching and therefore fighting and grinding. A WOT Box has solved the issue for 90% of the guys.

Also, some of the guys have seen it completely go away just by moving their seat forward alittle bit. It seemed the problem was they were not engaging the clutch fully or at the perfect time while speed shifting because their seat was too far back.

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post #34 of 35 Old December 8th, 2013, 02:05 PM
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Crackpotfox, your avatar is freaking me out. Have you looked through the inspection port at your clutch?

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post #35 of 35 Old December 9th, 2013, 09:25 PM
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With the strong centering springs in the MGW keep in mind that you have to slightly pull the shifter to the left while pulling back too when aiming for 2nd. It should happen naturally. Also, how far is the clutch engaging from the floor?

When you are driving and in gear and you step on the clutch with your foot on the gas the clutch should start to disengage very close to the top. (about 1/4 of the stroke of the pedal or less) You shouldn't have to step down very far as it starts to slip. If it's not grinding and just locking you out on the 1-2 shift I highly doubt it's a syncro problem.

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