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post #21 of 26 Old January 20th, 2016, 01:12 PM
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What brand of headers?

Some guys say it's better to reuse most of the factory studs, I didn't. On most headers there are a few spots where you have to use bolts because there isn't room for the studs.

I initially did mine with plain flanged-head bolts, which never loosened, and then redid them a year later because I thought a gasket was leaking (it wasn't), and I used Stage 8 locking bolts when I put it back together.

Supposedly you can reuse the stock gaskets, again I didn't. They are two piece, and mine looked like crap. I used FRPP gaskets the first time, and Percy's aluminum gaskets the second time. Both are great quality and much easier to deal with than a two piece gasket. Once nice thing about the Percy's gasket is that it isn't fiber faced like the FRPP gaskets, meaning if you ever remove your headers there won't be gasket material to scrape off.
Thanks for the input. The headers are DPT, which appear to be JBA knock offs. Hopefully everything mounts up well. The previous owner had no issues with them at all. I have ordered the Ford Racing gasket, but I am debating on ordering another set of bolts, or just using the stock ones.

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Originally Posted by Durr4456 View Post
I reused my stock gaskets and studs. Studs were right but gaskets were very clean and in good shape.

Car was around 102k I think when I did it.
Long time no see man! Not sure if you remember or not, but you and I installed your relocation brackets and LCA's at my apartment in New Orleans like 3 or 4 years ago.

Do you think I should just stick with the stock gaskets to avoid the fiber ones blowing out? I am at 154k miles now.

2006 GT ~C&L Racer~Steeda UDP~JBA LT~Pypes O/R X Pipe~Borla S-Type A/B~MGW Shifter~FRPP K Springs~Koni STRT.S~J&M Panhard Bar~3.73.
2011 F150 4X4 Lariat Coyote. Ball Cooling Seats. Gibson Dualsport.
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post #22 of 26 Old January 20th, 2016, 01:35 PM
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Well, my stock studs were kinda gnarly looking and I knew several of them wouldn't work with the headers anyway so I used bolts. I suppose it's up to you, just know that if you use the stock studs you will need bolts for a few areas (if those are JBA knockoffs) because the studs won't fit around the header tubes in spots.

Also any good header gaskets are multi layer steel (the FRPP ones are) or just plain aluminum like the Percy's.

2005 Mustang GT
CMS Stage 1 cams, Lito Tune, C&L Racer, CMDP, SR UDP, JBA LT's & catted H, FRPP Touring AB, Koni STR.T, BMR springs, J&M upper/mount, BMR lowers & brackets, J&M pb, Steeda Tri-Ax, Brembos
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post #23 of 26 Old January 20th, 2016, 02:37 PM
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Thanks for the feed back. I just ordered some bolts. Just in case.

2006 GT ~C&L Racer~Steeda UDP~JBA LT~Pypes O/R X Pipe~Borla S-Type A/B~MGW Shifter~FRPP K Springs~Koni STRT.S~J&M Panhard Bar~3.73.
2011 F150 4X4 Lariat Coyote. Ball Cooling Seats. Gibson Dualsport.
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post #24 of 26 Old January 20th, 2016, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by braupe View Post
Thanks for the input. The headers are DPT, which appear to be JBA knock offs. Hopefully everything mounts up well. The previous owner had no issues with them at all. I have ordered the Ford Racing gasket, but I am debating on ordering another set of bolts, or just using the stock ones.







Long time no see man! Not sure if you remember or not, but you and I installed your relocation brackets and LCA's at my apartment in New Orleans like 3 or 4 years ago.



Do you think I should just stick with the stock gaskets to avoid the fiber ones blowing out? I am at 154k miles now.

How could I forget man?

I didn't order gaskets. I was going to see how the stockers looked when I pulled the stock manifolds off. They ended up looking awesome. I cleaned em and threw em right back on. Never had a leak and still haven't. I had it in the back of my head I might have to order new ones, but I wanted to see if I could reuse them first. Could just wait and see like I did. Getting the stock manifolds out is a rather amazing break point haha

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post #25 of 26 Old January 20th, 2016, 03:14 PM
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Oh, one other note on the studs-I didn't break any but some of them are a pain to get out. I'd recommend you start soaking everything in PB Blaster a couple days before you start. I was actually able to turn most of the studs out by the little hex on the end (it's tiny- like 5/16" or something), but on several the hex broke off and I had to double nut them to get them out.

I like studs for some applications but in this instance I really didn't feel like screwing with them (no pun intended, har har)

2005 Mustang GT
CMS Stage 1 cams, Lito Tune, C&L Racer, CMDP, SR UDP, JBA LT's & catted H, FRPP Touring AB, Koni STR.T, BMR springs, J&M upper/mount, BMR lowers & brackets, J&M pb, Steeda Tri-Ax, Brembos
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post #26 of 26 Old January 20th, 2016, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ghunt View Post
Oh, one other note on the studs-I didn't break any but some of them are a pain to get out. I'd recommend you start soaking everything in PB Blaster a couple days before you start. I was actually able to turn most of the studs out by the little hex on the end (it's tiny- like 5/16" or something), but on several the hex broke off and I had to double nut them to get them out.

I like studs for some applications but in this instance I really didn't feel like screwing with them (no pun intended, har har)
I see what you did there! I plan on starting Friday night. Get the car in the air, soak the header bolts, then remove the mid pipe, wheels, intake battery. Etc etc.

2006 GT ~C&L Racer~Steeda UDP~JBA LT~Pypes O/R X Pipe~Borla S-Type A/B~MGW Shifter~FRPP K Springs~Koni STRT.S~J&M Panhard Bar~3.73.
2011 F150 4X4 Lariat Coyote. Ball Cooling Seats. Gibson Dualsport.
2011 Explorer Limited.
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