I Post Entirely Way Too Much
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Las Vegas
iTrader: 4 reviews
If you like the alignment then mount them the same way you have them now. If you can avoid clocking the struts, don't. That can lead to premature wear and then they might start all too familiar popping.
With ProKit springs you don't have to use the compressor thingies. Those things scare me. Jack the car up by the frame. Support the a-arm with your jack. Undo the center strut bolt leaving the four mount bolts attached. Lower the a-arm slowly, releasing the tension on the spring. Undo the upper spindle bolt while holding the rotor. There may be some outward pressure when you remove the bolt and if your not careful it may swing out and catch you on the lip. Let the spindle swing down and there shouldn't be any more tension on the spring. Continue to remove the strut from the spindle and it should all drop out at this point, spring and all. Then unbolt the mount and let it fall out. Then bolt up the upper mount by itself. Put the spring on the strut and lift it into the strut tower and attach the bottom spindle bolt. Rotate the spindle and rotor up making sure your spring is lined up with both the upper and lower spring perches. Install the upper spindle bolt. Then jack the a-arm back up making sure the spring is still aligned properly and the strut rod feeds nicely through the hole in the upper mount. Then attach the center rod bolt on top of the mount.
Trust me, I swapped my springs 4 times a year until I went with my CJ springs, and it is the easiest, and to me, the safest way to do it.
Whipple, 3.125" pulley-Comp NSR's-Meziere-Pacesetter L/T's+Outlaws-Level 10 trans-PI 3400-PH driveshaft-Auburn Pro LSD-Richmond 4.10's-CobraJet springs-Viking shocks-BMR control arms, panhard, rear sway bar-and a bunch of other really cool shit