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post #21 of 131 Old August 21st, 2015, 02:40 AM
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Nice! Can't wait till you get her together.


Whipple, 3.125" pulley-Comp NSR's-Meziere-Pacesetter L/T's+Outlaws-Level 10 trans-PI 3400-PH driveshaft-Auburn Pro LSD-Richmond 4.10's-CobraJet springs-Viking shocks-BMR control arms, panhard, rear sway bar-and a bunch of other really cool shit
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post #22 of 131 Old September 11th, 2015, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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Okay so I finally have all the parts of the turbo kit, so when I get the car smogged one last time I can finally start the turbo install. Today I started replacing the UCA and mount that I've had sitting around since last christmas, and holy shit its a pain in the ass. Those bolts are a huge pain, had to get a 2 foot cheater on almost every one. My impact wrench wouldn't even budge them. After 3 hours of fighting those things, I go to lower the gas tank, and what do you know, the god damned rear braces are in the way : (remember those fucking things Boss? they're a fucking pain.) I got tired of fighting the car for today so right now its sitting in my garage on jack stands with the UCA completely unbolted. Tomorrow I have to jack it up and reposition the jack stands so I can get the damned convertible braces off and actually drop the gas tank. fucking thing is driving me nuts.




anyway, the plan for the next week or so is to finish the UCA, wire up my wideband, and when the rain clears and I can get her smogged I'm gonna swap the fuel pumps and start actually installing the turbo. yay me

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post #23 of 131 Old September 11th, 2015, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finished taking the old UCA out, just to realize the new one I had for almost a year sitting on my shelf is the wrong one. So I bought the correct one and the old one is for sale in the classifieds, link in my sig. I'm thinking I'll just install my wideband while I wait for the new UCA. There isn't much I can do before this damned emissions test

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post #24 of 131 Old September 12th, 2015, 07:25 AM
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Keep ur head up great job bro

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post #25 of 131 Old September 12th, 2015, 12:27 PM
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Yeah, I remember those things. Didn't it hit me in the head or poke my eye or something. Only thing I remember is that it was a PIA to do some pretty simple things back there.

Hey, so did that UCA not fit? I seem to remember somewhere talking about swapping arms to a later model because the added length or something. Had to do with the geometry and how it would cause less binding of the bushing or something like that.


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post #26 of 131 Old September 12th, 2015, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Yea the mount wouldn't go in because of the placement of the gas tank and if I had tried to retain the factory mount the arm itself was too long

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post #27 of 131 Old September 18th, 2015, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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So here's the car as she sits. Forgot to post about the tail lights I bought at the AM show, and I think they look damn good on the black car.



So today I got a little progress done, but I only had about 2 or so hours to work on the car, and while I'm still waiting for my UCA to get here, there isn't much I can do. Thus I decided I would start wiring in my boost controller and wideband. Given the time constraint, all I could really do is get the mounting points figured out, but I decided on putting the wideband in the drivers side center vent, and the boost controller between them. It took me a good 45 minutes to get the dash torn apart, mainly because of the fucking passenger side airbag:



Because the boost controller isn't a normal sized guage, its a 60mm, I had to go buy a holesaw and just hope it would fit, but after drilling the hole and test fitting it, I think it's gonna turn out looking pretty good. Still haven't decided if I want to paint the whole damned dash black, instead of just the vents. Probably going to do it. Anyway here's how it turned out.



I wish I had more fucking time during the week to work on this shit, or at least for my fucking UCA to get here. Oh well, progress is progress.

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post #28 of 131 Old September 18th, 2015, 10:59 PM
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So you finally caved and dropped the coin on the tail lights. Pretty sweet.

Like the boost controller. You might have to saw away some underneath there but no one will ever see it. I just took the hole saw to all that shit behind there and it worked out pretty good. At least everything went back together.

Just keep plugging away at it. It'll get there.


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post #29 of 131 Old September 18th, 2015, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yep I bought them at the american muscle show for a good price

Because of the size of the boost controller, it interfered with the plastic clips on the back of the vent panel, so I just cut that part out. you can actually see where I did that in the second picture.

Hopefully next week real progress will be made. My UCA will be here monday so that means thursday I can put it in.

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post #30 of 131 Old September 20th, 2015, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so no pictures, because it's too dark to take any.

So I was released early from work today, so I thought I'd get some work done on the car. I'm progressing at a snails pace, but what can you do. Today I finished tearing apart the dash, removing the climate controls and stereo and what not, and started tackling some of the wiring. I got the boost controller almost completely wired up, all that's left is to run the wiring to the solenoid. In hindsight I probably should have wired in the power for the wideband at the same time but oh well, that'll happen later this week. I got the vacuum tube ran for the boost controller also, well just the line that goes to the actual unit but hey it's progress. I'm not going to set up the solenoid until I get the piping and wastegate put in, which will be much later. Right now the EBC is just a super expensive vacuum gauge. After getting the vacuum hose ran through the firewall(finding a spot to run through the drivers side is a bitch unless you drill a new one), I fired her up checking for vacuum leaks, and it seems to be running just fine. Now lets hope my UCA gets delivered tomorrow so I can drop the car off of the damn jack stands.

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post #31 of 131 Old September 27th, 2015, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Made some progress today. I got home around 7 so I figured I would try go get something quick done. I've had a set of FRPP charge motion delete plates sitting in my room for a couple months now that I got for a good deal secondhand, and they seemed the perfect candidate for a quick project to tie up a couple hours. If I didn't have to fight with the fuel line it probably could have been done in under an hour.

I got started by just pulling off the CAI (that is for sale, if you're interested PM me) and all the vacuum lines connected to the intake manifold.




Then came the fuel rails. I removed them, but in hindsight I probably didn't need to. If you're planning on taking it off, I would recommend not removing the rails just to lessen the chance of shit falling into the cylinders. Anywho, the quick disconnect going to the fuel rail requires a special tool to disconnect. There's a spring inside that holds the male and female ends together and the only way to retract that spring is with a special tool. Well me being the lazy cheap ass that I am, I said fuck that and fashioned my own out of one of those little plastic keychain things.



I had to trim it a bit but all I had to do was wrap it around the fuel line and push it against the spring, and she popped right off. Make sure you have a rag handy because some fuel will spill out. Also because you have open fuel lines, make sure you're in a well ventilated area and it wouldn't hurt to have a fire extinguisher handy.



the next thing to do is remove the 10 bolts holding down the intake manifold. You're gonna need deep sockets because one of the bolts has a 1.5in or so stud coming out of it for the wiring harness to attach, the ford service manual says to remove the bolts in a star sequence. Don't forget the vacuum line coming from the back of the intake manifold on the drivers side, and the clip that connects the harness to the back of it on the passenger side. If you have small o-rings come out with the bolts, remember which hole they came from so you don't get any bolts with no seal or double seals. When you get the manifold off it will look like this, I shoved rags in the intake ports to keep shit from falling down in there.



On the bottom of the intake manifold where the runners are, there's 2 torx screws holding in each side of the cmcv's in, and 3 regular bolts holding on the motor. Remove all those, and make sure you remove the green seals from the old plates.



Transfer the seals to the new plates, and using the old torx screws, fasten them to the intake manifold. remember, you're screwing down into plastic, so don't go gorilla tight, just snug plus a quarter turn will do. You won't be able to attach the metal bracket to the manifold without a large spacer, I didn't see it necessary because the harness at that point is very thick and will easily hold it's shape and place.



Here's the old motor and plate assembly. I'm willing to sell them off, motor works perfectly and the plates could be used to make DIY deletes. If you want them PM me.



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post #32 of 131 Old November 4th, 2015, 01:36 AM
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post #33 of 131 Old November 4th, 2015, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Towelie View Post

Here's the old motor and plate assembly. I'm willing to sell them off, motor works perfectly and the plates could be used to make DIY deletes. If you want them PM me.


I was just talking to someone who needed that motor. I went to look at my manifold to see if it was there and it wasn't. Let me see if I can figure out where that guys is.


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post #34 of 131 Old November 4th, 2015, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Don't bother, my roommate was cleaning the garage and tossed it out


And there's an update coming to this

---------- Post added at 02:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:17 PM ----------

Okay so a lot of work has been done since my last update, forgive my lack of pictures. I gave up on this thread for lack of attention, and it looks like there's a slight resurgence. anywho...

So the turbo kit is fully installed, after about a month on jack stands. The install wasn't terrible, the worst parts were getting the damn headers out and the shitty paper gaskets off that came with the headers. I spent probably 12 solid hours getting the headers out and getting the gaskets off. I had tried everything, I tried chipping away at them with my fingers, no luck there. Then I went and bought one of those plastic gasket scrapers, and whoever invented those might as well just go die in a hole because their invention caused me to curse more and louder than I ever have before. I then tried that 3m gasket remover stuff. It ate the paint right off of the can it came in, but didn't do shit for the gasket. I eventually bought a glass scraper and decided to take the risk of scoring the head to get the gasket off. Luckily for me I took it slow, and off they came (after breaking like 3 razor blades).

With the headers off and all the old exhaust piping removed to the over axle pipes, I went to install the new manifolds and..... well I couldn't fucking find the ones I got from faym (I think it was faym) so after a couple days of searching several forums, I bought a new set on eBay. When those got here, I started the install, and lo and behold guess what I found, the other set of manifolds. Funny how that works huh? Well it turned out I would need both sets because I was having issues with the new ones I bought sealing, and the old ones I had didn't have any of the hardware I needed. So I mix matched it all together and got them bolted up. My tiny little asian sweatshop worker hands came in handy getting that fucking starter back in.

Then I got the turbo manifold, turbo and crossfeed pipes mounted. That was a huge pain in the ass just because of how tight everything fits down there, and it didn't help that the v-band clamp I had didn't match the flanges right, making it difficult to make the crossfeed pipe match up with the manifold. I eventually got it to match up, but it gave me problems later on that I was hoping wouldn't happen. lol

Once I got the whole hotside mounted, which was supposed to bolt right up (it didn't, had to cut my over axle pipes, they were about 6 inches too long), I moved on to the cold side, and what a huge pain in the ass it was to do that alone. The bumper had to come off, which was easy I've done it a thousand times, the rad support was going bye bye, and so was the sway bar. I think the hardest part with all of that was just trying to support the radiator mount & intercooler on one side while the jack was holding the radiator, just to get the bolts in. Cue a lot more cursing and yelling. (at one point everything was going well and my roommate came in to check on me, he thought I had died because I wasn't yelling) I eventually got that bitch bolted up, but holy shit this intercooler has almost no wiggle room with the factory bumper in place. I felt like I was trying to park a cadillac in a doghouse, but I got it in there. After drilling and tapping a hole for the wastegate (why wasn't this already done S&H?) I got all the post intercooler piping in, which was pretty easy. The hard part came with the precooler piping. I got it all clamped on, but it didn't quite meet up. It was about 3 inches short, and it was incredibly frustrating.



I fought with the piping for a whole day and didn't make any progress. I eventually called S&H and they were stumped too. It turned out my turbo was clocked maybe 10 degrees off, and that made it come short. I clocked the compressor side just a hair more and it matched up perfectly.

After the hot and cold side came the vacuum lines, and the part I was dreading most, the coolant lines. The vacuum lines came first, and they weren't bad, the hardest part was finding all the places to hide it all, and where to tap in for what. I originally had the BOV and the boost gauge coming from a tee off of the fuel pressure regulator, with the boost controller and wastegate lines coming off of the cold side. That didn't really work very well. More on that later. Now the coolant lines, those were a bitch. I fucking hate dealing with coolant and oil. Now the coolant return line comes off of the turbo, and returns to the upper radiator hose, that wasn't too bad, the hardest part was cutting the steel braided AN tubing, that I didn't know was steel braided. Oh well, I got it all up and routed. Now the feed comes off of a spare plug in the side of the block and goes to the turbo. You'd be surprised how much coolant stays in the block when you drain the radiator. I probably took almost a whole gallon out when I removed the plug, and about half of it went in my hair, eyes and mouth. It was horrible. But nonetheless I got the feed line mounted and ready to go. At this point, the car was all back together and ready to start up. I loaded up the factory tune because I had taken off all the major mods to the car, and turned the key.


Listen to dat lope but seriously the car was not happy. I tried loading up my old tune for longtubes and a big cai. This time it actually started and ran fairly well! it had a bit of trouble maintaining a stable AFR but it ran.


We were back in business! I decided to take her around the block to see how she behaved, and if all went well, I would drive it lightly to try and break in the turbo a little bit. At idle it runs lean but once you give it even a little throttle the afr's go to where they need to be.

After a little bit I noticed my tailpipes were hanging SUPER low. like an inch off the ground low. So I took my car to a local shop and asked them to weld in a couple hangers. They were cool af and we were talking about cars for probably 2 hours. Apparently they have a full on race team with like 6 cars. But anyway while we were under there we noticed my turbo was leaking coolant. We fought with that for a bit and got her to seal up. The whole time my car was in the air they were taking pictures of the turbo setup and asking me why there's no oil lines and stuff like that. It was cool lol car people were actually complimenting me on my car for once! It wasn't just old people and girls who have no idea what they're looking at! This was the first time the car was on a lift since before my deployment so I took a couple pictures of the setup.





After driving her around I noticed that on high rpm shifts (no boost don't worry) The turbo would make that choo choo choo F&F ricer sound. My BOV wasn't opening. So I took the car and ripped out all the vacuum lines. Replaced the BOV line with 1/4 tubing the whole way through. No dice, she still won't open. Then I decided to tee off of the brake booster line instead of the fuel pressure sensor line. No dice. I took off the bumper and took the BOV out and changed the spring, the old one was corroded to hell and it had slightly frozen the valve shut. I put in a lighter spring and it worked! now instead of the car going choo choo choo like thomas the retarded ricer train, it was a nice solid WHOOSH. I love it. All these new sounds have me grinning like a schoolgirl every time I drive it.

Now that the car was running well and what not, I decided to tackle some of the fuel system. Now on the current tune I can't swap out the injectors, but I can swap out the pump. So I dropped the top, parked her in the driveway and took out the back seat. Got the pump out and it was an easy swap. Got the pump in and took her for a drive to see how it worked. The car runs a little richer but not by much. The ECU is doing it's job. So I take it to the gas station and start filling her up. I had put in about 5 gallons and somebody else at the station looked at me and said "sir do you know your car's leaking" I look under the car and every single one of those 5 gallons had dumped out from under the car. So I immediately stopped pumping gas, and told the people that worked there. I went outside and pushed the car away, rip out the back seat in the parking lot and realize that the retaining ring wasn't on right. 2 or 3 of the little lips on the retaining ring weren't seated, causing all the fuel to vent out through the hat. Fun times. I fixed it right there and filled her up and drove her home in shame.

That's how the car sits now. I'm still waiting on a spot to open up at my tuners shop, and until then the car is barely being driven because the temptation to go into boost is just too much and I don't trust myself. Anywho, there's your update.
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post #35 of 131 Old November 4th, 2015, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
thomas the retarded ricer train
That made the entire update.

That turbo set up is cool as hell though. Can you even tell just by popping the hood?

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post #36 of 131 Old November 4th, 2015, 04:00 PM
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So out of curiosity how does an oil-less turbo work? Is it cooled AND lubricated by coolant or what? I didn't even know they made such a thing.

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post #37 of 131 Old November 4th, 2015, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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That made the entire update.

That turbo set up is cool as hell though. Can you even tell just by popping the hood?
You can tell something isn't right because there's no airbox, and the intake pipe goes down into nothingness but it would be easy to claim it's a CAI. If I decide to hide the EBC solenoid it would be pretty easy to say its n/a

Quote:
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So out of curiosity how does an oil-less turbo work? Is it cooled AND lubricated by coolant or what? I didn't even know they made such a thing.
It's packed with a special high temp grease

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post #38 of 131 Old November 4th, 2015, 08:47 PM
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Awesome build!

2006 GT ~C&L Racer~Steeda UDP~JBA LT~Pypes O/R X Pipe~Borla S-Type A/B~MGW Shifter~FRPP K Springs~Koni STRT.S~J&M Panhard Bar~3.73.
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post #39 of 131 Old November 4th, 2015, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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thanks

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post #40 of 131 Old November 5th, 2015, 12:43 AM
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Be safe out there, brother. Thanks for your hard work.
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