Out with the old, in with the new. - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 47 Old August 7th, 2015, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Red face Out with the old, in with the new.

Swapped the Viking Racing DA shocks...




... for some fixed Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks. They're not as pretty as the polished Viking ones but they don't look too bad.





Now that that is done I'm gonna move on to the front. New K-member and A-arms along with some Lakewood 90/10 struts. Going to pull the front bumper too so I can get my car on an alignment rack and the lift at my exhaust shop.


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post #2 of 47 Old August 8th, 2015, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't make much progress on her today but I did introduce power tools to the boy.




Look at the smile on his face after he felt the power of the impact gun.




When i get home today I'm gonna deal with the heat and get it all torn down and Sunday after work were gonna put on all the new stuff. Gotta get it done because I have an appointment for the alignment on Tuesday.
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post #3 of 47 Old August 8th, 2015, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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So I'm in a dilema on how to proceed. I complicated matters by swapping out struts at the same time. The BMR instructions has you basically leave the steering knuckle and strut attached to the car. I've already taken off the center strut bolt. Normally when I swap springs/struts, the steering knuckle is connected to the car and I use a jack on it to assemble the strut assembly. So do I just yank everything out and bench assemble the struts and steering knuckle together and put it back in as a unit? Do I do the struts only and leave and use the attached steering knuckle on there to press everything together, and then continue with the BMR instructions? Or do I take another route?

This is where I'm at now.



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post #4 of 47 Old August 8th, 2015, 10:38 PM
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When I dropped mine I dropped my K member, A arms, and spindles altogether. I left the strut assembly attached to the car. In your case I would do the same and just pull the strut assembly out separate and put back in separate. Once it was dropped out I just pulled the spindle off the stock a arm and put them on the BMR a arm that I already attached to the K member already. I then just tossed the K member back in with the k member, arms, and spindles all as one unit.
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post #5 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cammin' 08 View Post
When I dropped mine I dropped my K member, A arms, and spindles altogether. I left the strut assembly attached to the car. In your case I would do the same and just pull the strut assembly out separate and put back in separate. Once it was dropped out I just pulled the spindle off the stock a arm and put them on the BMR a arm that I already attached to the K member already. I then just tossed the K member back in with the k member, arms, and spindles all as one unit.
Pretty much how I had it planned. I did take the knuckle off of the arm though. I will assemble it as one unit and lift it up in there. This is where I'm at.




Another sticky point that has me stuck now. I can proceed no farther at this point. I can't undo the steering rack fasteners. I'm trying to wrench on the bottom two bolts. Breaker bar with a jack handle over the end as a cheater, I'm pressing the handle with my legs and my fit personal trainer friend of mine tugging on it from the other side, and we can't get it to budge. Yes we are turning it counter clockwise. Even got it hot with a torch. Torqued on it so hard the socket deformed and got stuck on there. Had to knock it off with a hammer. Anyways, is there some kind of a trick here? Feels like those nuts are welded to the K-member. Should I be trying to get the bolt on the top instead of the nut on the bottom?

Stuck



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post #6 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 01:16 AM
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Does looks like it's tacked. Did you try the top?

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post #7 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Does looks like it's tacked. Did you try the top?
No, and I just found out I have to do it from the top. My Haynes manual has a pic like mine with big white arrows pointing at those nuts with the instructions to remove them. The BMR instructions say to use an 18 mm deep socket which implies to me it's needed to fit over the bolt protruding through the nut. And no where in either did it say to do it from the top. How silly. I think they did that shit on purpose.
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post #8 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 01:29 AM
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Yeah I hear ya, on my old jeep they had nut-serts on inside of frame for the hitch. And of coarse they break loose and you can't get them off (or on).

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post #9 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 02:00 AM
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wow what a hassle! Keep going you got it!

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post #10 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 02:38 AM
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Yea the steering rack bolts come out from the top. If I remember right I actually lowered the k memeber some then loosened the rack since its so tight. I don't think I fully removed the rack from the k member until I dropped the k memeber completely. It has some flexibility. Just make sure the new bolts are TIGHT. I thought mine were and my rack would shift occasionally and I could feel a wobble in the wheel
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post #11 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 01:20 PM
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what didn't you like about the Viking shocks? I thought everyone raved about them.

not sure if this helps, but the ford repair manuals are available online (same ones used by the dealer - might have something in there that can help you out): Ford Service Manuals - Workshop Manuals

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post #12 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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what didn't you like about the Viking shocks? I thought everyone raved about them.

not sure if this helps, but the ford repair manuals are available online (same ones used by the dealer - might have something in there that can help you out): Ford Service Manuals - Workshop Manuals
They are good. It's just that I'm a one man show when I go to the track and I think I'm getting too into it. First off I have no idea what the car is doing when I launch because I don't have anyone filming or watching how the car is behaving. This makes it difficult to decide which way to adjust things. I can just tweak it and look at time slips to see if improvements were made but that is a long drawn out process of trial and error and would need a pretty large sample of data to make definitive choices. At this point I want to simplify it and work more on learning how to drive the car as opposed to trying to dial the car in to how I drive. I think it's going to be easier to do driver mods as opposed to try and find the right settings out of over 300 possible combinations.

Also I think one of the valves is messed up because the adjustment knob/screw just turns smoothly instead of notchy like the other ones. There is no two clicks up any more, just spins. Gonna send them off to Viking for a rebuild and then put them on the shelf for a day when I can use them properly instead of just guessing at settings.

I've had decent experiences with the Lakewood set up on different cars so it's in my comfort zone. Is it ideal? No, but it should be a decent set up that I can work with.

The only issue I may have is that I chose to go with the 90/10's instead of the 70/30's with the front struts. I'm thinking that this is going to lead to some unusual and non ballistic handling characteristics on the street. It will get really crazy when I get the Extreme Anti-Roll bar for the rear. This combo is going to make a pretty unstable platform when encountering roads that aren't straight and flat. lol, which pretty much means all of the time.


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post #13 of 47 Old August 9th, 2015, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well, she's out at least. Got the struts assembled and gonna pre-assemble the K-member and A-arms. I think I'm gonna run down to the parts store and get some engine cleaner and detail up the underside before lifting everything up and in.




Not sur what I am going to do with this pretty Prothane Bullet mounts yet. You can't use them with the BMR K-member. Hmmm, what should I do with them?


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post #14 of 47 Old August 10th, 2015, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Got to break out the pneumatic grease gun. If you have swapped out your suspension like I have you can have up to 20 zirc fittings to tend to on a regular basis. One of these is well worth the $.




Pre-assembled and ready to go in.





Being that I'm an old fart and doing this by myself I had to use the 3 jack method. One to hold the motor and two for either side of the K-member. Worked really good. I went back and forth a couple of times but jacked it all the way up and lined everything up including the motor and bolted her up. Tomorrow just tie rod ends, steering knuckle and struts.



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post #15 of 47 Old August 10th, 2015, 01:56 AM
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So are the bolts self aligning for the k member or is there room for error?

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post #16 of 47 Old August 10th, 2015, 02:46 AM
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So are the bolts self aligning for the k member or is there room for error?


There is some room for error but not like inches or anything. Mine was pretty straight on the alignment rack after my install.
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post #17 of 47 Old August 10th, 2015, 09:53 AM
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Looking good! I plan on doing this next year.

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post #18 of 47 Old August 10th, 2015, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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So are the bolts self aligning for the k member or is there room for error?
Not really. I did have to jiggle it to start the last 2 bolts but everything pretty much lines up. The engine mounts have one side slightly slotted for a little wiggle room on the motor. Other than that everything lines up to where it supposed to. I had an odd number of washers though. Ended up running to the hardware store and getting some more. Don't know if they were necessary but every bolt/nut has a washer on it now.

Still trying to figure out what to do with these pretty Prothane motor mounts.


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post #19 of 47 Old August 10th, 2015, 11:13 AM
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Wow what a trip, congratulations!!! Good thing I had my shop do that for me.

You will have so much room under there to work it's unbelievable!

Not sure what you can do with your mounts, but you can use your old k member as a boat anchor now though.

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post #20 of 47 Old August 10th, 2015, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Wow what a trip, congratulations!!! Good thing I had my shop do that for me.

You will have so much room under there to work it's unbelievable!

Not sure what you can do with your mounts, but you can use your old k member as a boat anchor now though.

I drug that thing out out to the driveway to get it out of the way and it's still there. When my BMR one came in the mail at work I tossed it over my shoulder with one arm and walked out to my car. To get this thing off the floor I had to incorporate my dead lift techniques and then do that waddle/shuffle thing across the garage.
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