There are basically two kinds of injectors. I call them short and tall but they have names. Then they have different electrical plug/connectors. As long as they match up you can run them, with a tune of course.
ev6 and ev14 are two different heights. They look the same from tip to tip but you need to measure from o-ring to o-ring. Then there are the connectors that you can get with them, they are either going to be jetronic or USCAR. You can get adaptors for them but I think at that point they are not very cost effective.
Well the ones you have wont work. I have a complete set of them sitting there. Long story but I ended up with 2 sets of injectors when I got my whipple.
You know I was going to say something but you seemed like you were determined to get new injectors. And I've seen poeple run a 100 shot with stockers, that was why I asked earlier why you thought you needed them. I was never really sure on the stock injectors capacity as my car was very mild mannered when I had them. You should data log just to see where you are at if you have any doubts.
I will. Im going to ask my tuner chris at bbr. What he thinks first. I found out the stock yote injectors will work. They are 32lb injectors btw. I just dont wanna run into any fueling issues when i check the afr on the dyno again.
What is it supposed to be at? I mean where does your tuner have it set. You need to log fuel trims and see if they are falling short of where they are being commanded.
And I personally think that a ratio of 12.8 under load is pretty good for a stock motor. You should be around 14.7 at idle and a ratio as low 15.5-16 while coasting. Once you start modding the motor you may need to richen it up a little, but unless you start to run some really big cams (w/springs) or go forced induction do you need to run a richer mixture.
Chris did the tune i have no complaints or anything just dont want to hurt the motor.
Afr is anywhere from 12.7 to 13.2. Not sure on the timing i havent asked. It smells lean after a pull on the dyno tho. This is coming from a tailpipe not a o2 bung.
I think my target AF ratio is 11.6 with a twin screw. There is no way you need to run that rich with just an intake. It is my opinion that An N/A motor should be right around 12.5 -13.1 under load at peak torque. This is going to give you the best results in power. If you add more fuel to that you are going to drop in power. Only reason you would want to run richer than that is if you needed the cooling properties of that extra fuel. That would be under boost or high compression. Ignition timing is going to play a role in determining the proper ratio also.
But yes, I think 12.8 under load with your stock motor is going to be fine.
So the stockers in theory should be able to handle up to 400hp, right?
And by data logging you should see " in theory" if you need new or bigger injectors.?!
Yea im going to measure them tomorrow. Ill let you know if they fit. I know the plug location isnlower on the injector body then ev6 but that does not matter with the stock manifold.
Pullies, Pffft. You wont get any more HP, but you will free up some HP. If you wanna go that route I would do a Meziere electric H2O pump. Probably give yo a better net gain with all the added benefits of a better cooling capacity without the disadvantages of running pullies. Just saying its a win win.
And quit thinking about 5-6 HP gains. Start thinking about 50-60 HP gains. You gotta think big.
Types of Fuel Injector Body Styles
Fuel injectors are available in (3) distinct body styles: EV1, EV6 and EV14. The EV1 and EV6 injectors are commonly referred to as “long”, where the EV14 is known as “medium”.
Connector Style:
There are (2) types of electrical harness connectors used on fuel injectors: USCAR and Jetronic/Minitimer (a.k.a. Bosch/Amp). The USCAR is a rounded, square shape and the Jetronic/Minitimer is a rounded, rectangular shape.
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