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post #1 of 29 Old July 29th, 2016, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Cool double check

I'm finally going to do some mods to my car. but first I could use some opinions/ helpful hints lol.. lets start from scratch, on the car now I have short thro shifter, k&n air intake, springs around the car, and pypes axle back ..NOT MUCH!! its a 07 with 27k miles, the car is in perfect shape, well it should be because i don't drive it lol..
this is where i need help. 1. In the stage of ordering pypes long tube headers, do i need h-pipe or can i use whats already on the car? and bring it to the muffler shop to connect??
2. after looking and doing my research I'm going with the "hot rod cams"..do i need the "cam phaser eliminator"?? People and some buddies told me yes and some say no..3 also im getting the nitrous express plate kit, i live in Alabama where its hot as balls 97.3% of the time, so do i need a bottle warmer? colder plugs? im only going to run 100 shot because i dont want to jack her up..
does anybody have a set up like this and can give me some advice, and if you know were cheaper stuff is then am please let me know thanks josh
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post #2 of 29 Old July 29th, 2016, 07:56 AM
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Pypes mid pip is slip fit while the factory mid pipe is one piece from he manifold collector to the over axle pipes. So you will need the pypes mid pipe.

The 3v makes a lot of it power and drive ability through the vct so limiting that you would probably lose a lot of low end power, the hot rod cams do not require limiters, any new cam requires new phaser bolts though.

Ambient temperatures typically dont affect bottle pressure, you always need a heater, or if youre feeling ballsy you can use a torch. Cold step plugs arent really optional, theyre a must, blown up motors arent cool lol the most important thing is a tune, stick with a reputable tuner.

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post #3 of 29 Old July 29th, 2016, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Pypes mid pip is slip fit while the factory mid pipe is one piece from he manifold collector to the over axle pipes. So you will need the pypes mid pipe.

The 3v makes a lot of it power and drive ability through the vct so limiting that you would probably lose a lot of low end power, the hot rod cams do not require limiters, any new cam requires new phaser bolts though.

Ambient temperatures typically dont affect bottle pressure, you always need a heater, or if youre feeling ballsy you can use a torch. Cold step plugs arent really optional, theyre a must, blown up motors arent cool lol the most important thing is a tune, stick with a reputable tuner.
I hear putting them on could save you time and problems in the future? (phasers) and what do you mean limiting ?? H why I thought the nos in the bottle would warm up do to out side temp lol.. Your right thanks.. here's another good question!! What's a good tunner?
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post #4 of 29 Old July 29th, 2016, 10:25 AM
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I hear putting them on could save you time and problems in the future? (phasers) and what do you mean limiting ?? H why I thought the nos in the bottle would warm up do to out side temp lol.. Your right thanks.. here's another good question!! What's a good tunner?
Locking the phasers will stop the phaser from if it ever failed but you would essentially lose all your low end power, dtiveabilty wouldn't be as smooth, and gas mileage would take a hit. Hot rod cams are no where near large enoughto warrant limiters. Nitrous is only affected by direct heat, if you left the bottle in the sun it would build pressure but in a dark trunk it would not. Sct makes a generally accepted flash tuner but then you would need a shop to tune the car. I believe revolution automotive in Baltimore does email tuning and Adam the owner and tuner is a great guy.

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post #5 of 29 Old July 29th, 2016, 10:26 AM
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Some aftermarket performance cams with a higher valve lift and longer valve opening duration require that you install phaser limiters to reduce the variability of the cam timing and prevent the pistons from contacting the valves at TDC. The side effect of phaser limiters is that they narrow the power band by causing some loss of torque at lower rpm.
The Hot Rod cams are mild enough not to require phaser limiters but as with any cam swap, you WILL need new phaser bolts as Chris mentioned.


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post #6 of 29 Old July 29th, 2016, 03:09 PM
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Personally I would build from the ground up. Start with tires and suspension. I think that will improve the car and make you happier than the occasional puff of laughing gas. I mean how many times do you go to the track? It's not like it would be on all of the time. And it's not any good if you make 400 hp if you can't get it to the ground. Just saying, I've built many a car and it is a recipe for success.


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post #7 of 29 Old July 30th, 2016, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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I don't agree... And i never go to the track. It's for the young Honda lovers at work and to play in the street! Mustangs are a straight car!! And I'm getting tires...
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post #8 of 29 Old July 30th, 2016, 01:32 PM
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I agree with boss, he knows what hes talking about so listen to him.

Since you have lowering springs your pinion angle is all jacked up and the entire suspension geometry isnt right. Youll notice a huge difference once you get the rest of your suspension in line. Our cars are prone to bumpsteer from the factory and lowering the car just makes it worse.

Youll need shocks and struts soon too as they get worn quicker with aftermarket springs.

Im on the stock suspension with full bolt ons and I dont track my car but I can feel how the suspension limits me on the street.
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post #9 of 29 Old July 30th, 2016, 01:33 PM
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I don't agree... And i never go to the track. It's for the young Honda lovers at work and to play in the street! Mustangs are a straight car!! And I'm getting tires...

So You want the nitrous just to pull on some ricers street racing? Sounds like a good plan.


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post #10 of 29 Old July 30th, 2016, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't mean it in a disrespectful way.. and know that's not the only reason, other is to get more HP!! boss i do agree that it could use better suspension, I'm looking at power and sound first
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post #11 of 29 Old July 30th, 2016, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with boss, he knows what hes talking about so listen to him.

Since you have lowering springs your pinion angle is all jacked up and the entire suspension geometry isnt right. Youll notice a huge difference once you get the rest of your suspension in line. Our cars are prone to bumpsteer from the factory and lowering the car just makes it worse.

Youll need shocks and struts soon too as they get worn quicker with aftermarket springs.

Im on the stock suspension with full bolt ons and I dont track my car but I can feel how the suspension limits me on the street.
When you say full bolt ons what do you have?
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post #12 of 29 Old July 30th, 2016, 09:30 PM
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I didn't mean it in a disrespectful way.. and know that's not the only reason, other is to get more HP!! boss i do agree that it could use better suspension, I'm looking at power and sound first
None taken. everybody is entitled to their opinion. I was just trying to point out that if you hit it with a 100 shot without a good foundation you will probably just sit there with your tires spinning. And we all know, spinning isn't winning. Granted I run a bit more power than you but it took all of my experience and knowledge to get the car to hook decently. Weight transfer and anti-squat % will play a major factor in getting that power to the ground. Mine is still not completely dialed in as I should be able to squeak another tenth out of the 60'.


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post #13 of 29 Old July 30th, 2016, 10:45 PM
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I agree with boss, he knows what hes talking about so listen to him.

Since you have lowering springs your pinion angle is all jacked up and the entire suspension geometry isnt right. Youll notice a huge difference once you get the rest of your suspension in line. Our cars are prone to bumpsteer from the factory and lowering the car just makes it worse.

Youll need shocks and struts soon too as they get worn quicker with aftermarket springs.

Im on the stock suspension with full bolt ons and I dont track my car but I can feel how the suspension limits me on the street.
When you say full bolt ons what do you have?
Airaid cai, gt500 tb, charge motion delete plates and full exhaust minus long tubes. Other than cams, headers and pullies Im done. I guess its not full bolt on but its close lol. Its quick but not all my power gets to the ground. I get body roll and dont stay planted like I should when I should because my suspension isnt built. Oh and tires thats a huge factor too. Im on perellis and Im definitly limited. They are crappy tires wet and dry and tramline like a mofo.
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post #14 of 29 Old July 31st, 2016, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
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Lol yeah I hear you.. I just ordered pypes long tube headers, h-pipe, and I already have pypes axel back, fr hot cams, and I really want to go with nitrous express? The plate system, if i do, I'm getting every safety options out there window switches whatever it takes so I don't blow it up
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post #15 of 29 Old July 31st, 2016, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't mean it in a disrespectful way.. and know that's not the only reason, other is to get more HP!! boss i do agree that it could use better suspension, I'm looking at power and sound first
None taken. everybody is entitled to their opinion. I was just trying to point out that if you hit it with a 100 shot without a good foundation you will probably just sit there with your tires spinning. And we all know, spinning isn't winning. Granted I run a bit more power than you but it took all of my experience and knowledge to get the car to hook decently. Weight transfer and anti-squat % will play a major factor in getting that power to the ground. Mine is still not completely dialed in as I should be able to squeak another tenth out of the 60'.
Boss what info or knowledge can you spare on the nos if your familiar?
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post #16 of 29 Old July 31st, 2016, 04:49 AM
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Airaid cai, gt500 tb, charge motion delete plates and full exhaust minus long tubes. Other than cams, headers and pullies Im done. I guess its not full bolt on but its close lol. Its quick but not all my power gets to the ground. I get body roll and dont stay planted like I should when I should because my suspension isnt built.
I've also done only simple bolt-ons and I'm in a similar situation. Only suspension mod is BMR LCAs so far but I've ordered some urethane front/rear sway bar bushings and hopefully they'll reduce body roll.


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post #17 of 29 Old July 31st, 2016, 09:42 AM
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Boss what info or knowledge can you spare on the nos if your familiar?
I'm an old fart and it's been quite a while since I built a nitrous car. I am building one now though. Anyways, we never used bottle heaters or window switches or had any "safety" features. It was a master power, purge, fuel pump, pressure gauge and a button. I'm going with a port injected system this time and only used plates with carbs. I always used a wet system but that is different with a injected set up. I'm not sure I'm one that is very knowledgeable about specific set ups for our cars, just the principles of nitrous and how it works. But I do know that a fogger system as opposed to a plate system prolly won't make too big of a difference here. I don't know if you can run a port system with our composite manifolds, though I suppose you could. Anyways, about what to get for your car, I'm not going to be much help.


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post #18 of 29 Old July 31st, 2016, 11:28 AM
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Airaid cai, gt500 tb, charge motion delete plates and full exhaust minus long tubes. Other than cams, headers and pullies Im done. I guess its not full bolt on but its close lol. Its quick but not all my power gets to the ground. I get body roll and dont stay planted like I should when I should because my suspension isnt built.
I've also done only simple bolt-ons and I'm in a similar situation. Only suspension mod is BMR LCAs so far but I've ordered some urethane front/rear sway bar bushings and hopefully they'll reduce body roll.
I think after the bushings the best remedy is going to be shocks and struts. Are you on stock springs? A different spring rate will help as well.

My 02 gt has steeda sports and my 07 gt is on the stockers and you can tell a difference in body roll just from the springs. I feel more planted in my 02, though the ride quality isnt as good as the 07.
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post #19 of 29 Old July 31st, 2016, 02:32 PM
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Still on stock springs but I don't want to compromise the ride quality and I don't want to lower the car (too many speed bumps ). I'll probably just swap out my stock shocks/struts later on for Koni STR.T units to improve the damping.
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post #20 of 29 Old July 31st, 2016, 02:48 PM
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Still on stock springs but I don't want to compromise the ride quality and I don't want to lower the car (too many speed bumps ). I'll probably just swap out my stock shocks/struts later on for Koni STR.T units to improve the damping.
Do you ever track your car? I dont but Id like to see how fast I can get it down the track. I was thinking the cobra jet springs would be cool, they might lower the car slightly and are drag springs so they help with weight transfer. On the street they probably arent great but I bet theyd still be an upgrade over stock. Ive heard a lot of good things about the koni shocks and struts. I know they will help on the street. When my stockers go out thats what Ill go with.
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