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Trak Pak Wing Adjustment

2K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  Supp22 
#1 ·
Can anybody possibly help me out with whether the adjustments that are available for this wing actually make that much of a difference on the street compared to the track?
I'd like to get as much down Force as possible, seems like the tires break loose on this thing when I sneeze, and it has 345's on the rear. They are Nitto Invo's, not sure if that makes a big difference I know nothing about tires.
 

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#2 ·
How fast are you going when you break your tires loose? I think your best bet is driver mod. Learn how to control the throttle and weight distribution. On the street I can spin my tires in 1st, 2nd or 3rd pretty much whenever I want. Your car doesn't just go fast if you just by mashing the pedal to the floor. It will go faster once you learn how to drive it.
 
#3 ·
Thank you, I hear what you're saying completely, I was also pertaining to but I didn't mention it starting to lose adhesion in corners and I'm on the gas holding smooth, not on-off jerky, just wanted to make sure I was getting all of the downforce I could out of the wing.
 
#8 ·
Wings do not have a magic "turn on speed". They are always producing some downforce and always producing some drag. Most wings like this, especially if it's an APR wing, will have about 60mph be the speed at which noticeable downforce starts. Some are less (usually bigger wings like AJ Hartman wings) and some are less (Steeda's wing), but they will always produce some downforce provided air is moving over the wing.


OP: To answer your question, it's an adjustable wing. It probably takes ten minutes to test this for yourself, but yes, you can lower the front to achieve more angle of attack and in theory produce more downforce at lower speeds. The problem you will run into is the steeper the angle, the more likely the wing is to stall out and produce zero downforce and lots of drag while you travel at higher speeds. So steeper angle = more downforce at lower speeds and up UNTIL you reach stall speed on the wing and then it stalls out due to the angle of attack being too aggressive.

As for your tires, they are absolutely part of the problem. If handling is your goal, I'd strongly recommend a significantly better tire. Continental's new ExtremeContact Sport, Michelin's new PSS replacement (Can't remember off the top of my head) or any of the extreme summer tires in smaller widths would actually produce better results. Driver mod is also important.

If you don't already, you should really consider looking up to see if there is an SCCA region in your area that does autocrosses. That will FORCE you to learn how to use the throttle correctly.

Also, when you say "Trak Pak" What exactly are you referring to? That wing was not standard on any 05-10 Mustangs I'm aware of and there was never a "TrakPak" in the 05-10 years. There was a Track Package on the 13-14's but it did not include a wing like this and the FR500 racecars also did not use that wing. The Boss 302R and Boss 302S didn't use that wing either.
 
#15 ·
There is nothing wrong with spacers, but it just goes to show how much wheel you'll be able to run. The stock S197 fenders will support an 11" wide wheel with different offsets front and rear (fronts being about 25mm-30mm less aggressive than the rears). An 18x10.5 ET38 will fit at all four corners, with the rears poking slightly, and a 5mm spacer up front when combined with 315 wide tires front and rear.

With a wide body kit adding that much, no reason you shouldn't be able to run your 18x12.5's at all four corners if you wanted to, and 335's at all four.... I wouldn't recommend that wide for a DD as it will follow every rut in every road, but hey, some people are nuts! :p[/QUOTE]

Thanks, Whiskey.
I would like to at some point go with smaller tires because I found out that replacing 345x25x20s in the rear is not inexpensive.
I'm running 20-inch rims all the way around you keep mentioning 18's, so of course, that means springing for a new set of rims, which I would like to do at some point.
On that note though can I gather some more Fender clearance vertically by going to an 18-inch rim, even with adding some more sidewall on the tires, the 25s look great but they're awfully thin for DD.
Any advice on tire sizes that will give great handling but are on the more reasonable side of price because they're more used in the general population?
And if I want my tires to stay where they are, out towards the fender Edge, by going with a smaller Tire I'm guessing my spacers are going to have to increase in size otherwise the tires are going to look funny if they go too far in under the fender.
Thanks.
 
#16 ·
On that note though can I gather some more Fender clearance vertically by going to an 18-inch rim, even with adding some more sidewall on the tires, the 25s look great but they're awfully thin for DD.
Any advice on tire sizes that will give great handling but are on the more reasonable side of price because they're more used in the general population?
And if I want my tires to stay where they are, out towards the fender Edge, by going with a smaller Tire I'm guessing my spacers are going to have to increase in size otherwise the tires are going to look funny if they go too far in under the fender.
Thanks.
Changing wheel diameter doesn't necessarily mean gaining any clearances to the fender edge, it depends on the tire you chose. If your 18" wheels have tires that have the same overall height (say 25.6") as your 20" wheels then you'll gain nothing to the fender but you'll gain sidewall.

Factory S197 tire heights are 27.3" tall and this is... too tall... IMO... for any reasonable handling. Something in the mid to low 26" overall height is a good compromise between where you are now and factory, but as I said, even if you keep overall height the same going to 18" wheels will give you more sidewall.

As for achieving that stanced look, if you go to a (significantly) smaller width tire, then yes, you'll need some spacers to push the wheels out to where the edge of the tread meets the fender lip. I'd be more worried about overstretching a tire on wide wheels causing lack of wheel protection than the cost of said tires IMO. Replacing tires is one of those "necessary" things that happens annually for some of us and the cost to replace a set of wheels is exponentially higher given their shelf life is measured in half decade to decade increments or more depending on how they are used. Wheels also retain their value better. Buying 20" tires is expensive no matter how you slice it, but sometimes it's the only way to get tires in the widths people want. Only way away from that is to buy wheels that match the tire sizes YOU want. I personally wouldn't go narrower than 285's all the way around if you want any semblance of handling.
 
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