Trak Pak Wing Adjustment - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 17 Old October 4th, 2017, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Trak Pak Wing Adjustment

Can anybody possibly help me out with whether the adjustments that are available for this wing actually make that much of a difference on the street compared to the track?
I'd like to get as much down Force as possible, seems like the tires break loose on this thing when I sneeze, and it has 345's on the rear. They are Nitto Invo's, not sure if that makes a big difference I know nothing about tires.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20171004_210649.jpg
Views:	31
Size:	33.3 KB
ID:	198522   Click image for larger version

Name:	20171004_210621.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	29.7 KB
ID:	198530   Click image for larger version

Name:	20171004_210523.jpg
Views:	24
Size:	27.3 KB
ID:	198538   Click image for larger version

Name:	20171004_210442.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	34.5 KB
ID:	198546  
Supp22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 Old October 5th, 2017, 09:30 AM
I Post Entirely Way Too Much
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 13,624
                     
iTrader: 4 reviews
How fast are you going when you break your tires loose? I think your best bet is driver mod. Learn how to control the throttle and weight distribution. On the street I can spin my tires in 1st, 2nd or 3rd pretty much whenever I want. Your car doesn't just go fast if you just by mashing the pedal to the floor. It will go faster once you learn how to drive it.


Whipple, 3.125" pulley-Comp NSR's-Meziere-Pacesetter L/T's+Outlaws-Level 10 trans-PI 3400-PH driveshaft-Auburn Pro LSD-Richmond 4.10's-CobraJet springs-Viking shocks-BMR control arms, panhard, rear sway bar-and a bunch of other really cool shit
07 Boss is offline  
post #3 of 17 Old October 5th, 2017, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 Boss View Post
How fast are you going when you break your tires loose? I think your best bet is driver mod. Learn how to control the throttle and weight distribution. On the street I can spin my tires in 1st, 2nd or 3rd pretty much whenever I want. Your car doesn't just go fast if you just by mashing the pedal to the floor. It will go faster once you learn how to drive it.
Thank you, I hear what you're saying completely, I was also pertaining to but I didn't mention it starting to lose adhesion in corners and I'm on the gas holding smooth, not on-off jerky, just wanted to make sure I was getting all of the downforce I could out of the wing.
Supp22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 Old October 6th, 2017, 08:39 PM
gtscrewd
 
faym 08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NH
Posts: 5,228
Blog Entries: 1
                   
iTrader: 3 reviews
What ! Lol

.

tuned by performance dyno 496 rwhp 432 rwtq
July 2013 rotm winner
faym 08 is offline  
post #5 of 17 Old October 6th, 2017, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by faym 08 View Post
What ! Lol
It's an adjustable wing, not sure I see what is so funny, I guess forums aren't the place to ask questions and learn, sorry If I offended your forum with my silly question and am taking up undue space, I'll move on.
Supp22 is offline  
post #6 of 17 Old October 7th, 2017, 02:11 PM
I Post Entirely Way Too Much
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 13,624
                     
iTrader: 4 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supp22 View Post
Thank you, I hear what you're saying completely, I was also pertaining to but I didn't mention it starting to lose adhesion in corners and I'm on the gas holding smooth, not on-off jerky, just wanted to make sure I was getting all of the downforce I could out of the wing.
How fast are you taking these corners? You have to go pretty fast to get any, if at all, any down force that is going to help with cornering.

Enter the turn under braking and then after the apex accelerate. This will transfer more weight to the rear wheels and help with traction. If you are constant throttle through a corner you are doing it wrong. If anything your going to push or under steer through the corner. If you are losing traction in the middle of the corner you have either too much or not enough throttle. If at a constant speed or neutral weight balance the car should push not break the tires loose. If you are braking or slowing down through the apex you will lose traction too as the weight is on the front. Stay off the gas until you are coming out of the corner.


Whipple, 3.125" pulley-Comp NSR's-Meziere-Pacesetter L/T's+Outlaws-Level 10 trans-PI 3400-PH driveshaft-Auburn Pro LSD-Richmond 4.10's-CobraJet springs-Viking shocks-BMR control arms, panhard, rear sway bar-and a bunch of other really cool shit
07 Boss is offline  
post #7 of 17 Old October 7th, 2017, 03:56 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 6
   
iTrader: 0 reviews
Those wings work at 140 mph and above, below that they just look pretty. I doubt that you are reaching that level.
g150rdt is offline  
post #8 of 17 Old October 7th, 2017, 05:16 PM
At the Apex pulling 1.28g
 
Whiskey11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: York, Nebraska
Posts: 6,578
                     
iTrader: 1 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to Whiskey11
Quote:
Originally Posted by g150rdt View Post
Those wings work at 140 mph and above, below that they just look pretty. I doubt that you are reaching that level.
Wings do not have a magic "turn on speed". They are always producing some downforce and always producing some drag. Most wings like this, especially if it's an APR wing, will have about 60mph be the speed at which noticeable downforce starts. Some are less (usually bigger wings like AJ Hartman wings) and some are less (Steeda's wing), but they will always produce some downforce provided air is moving over the wing.


OP: To answer your question, it's an adjustable wing. It probably takes ten minutes to test this for yourself, but yes, you can lower the front to achieve more angle of attack and in theory produce more downforce at lower speeds. The problem you will run into is the steeper the angle, the more likely the wing is to stall out and produce zero downforce and lots of drag while you travel at higher speeds. So steeper angle = more downforce at lower speeds and up UNTIL you reach stall speed on the wing and then it stalls out due to the angle of attack being too aggressive.

As for your tires, they are absolutely part of the problem. If handling is your goal, I'd strongly recommend a significantly better tire. Continental's new ExtremeContact Sport, Michelin's new PSS replacement (Can't remember off the top of my head) or any of the extreme summer tires in smaller widths would actually produce better results. Driver mod is also important.

If you don't already, you should really consider looking up to see if there is an SCCA region in your area that does autocrosses. That will FORCE you to learn how to use the throttle correctly.

Also, when you say "Trak Pak" What exactly are you referring to? That wing was not standard on any 05-10 Mustangs I'm aware of and there was never a "TrakPak" in the 05-10 years. There was a Track Package on the 13-14's but it did not include a wing like this and the FR500 racecars also did not use that wing. The Boss 302R and Boss 302S didn't use that wing either.



2015 Mustang GT/PP Autocross Build Thread:
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-pp-build.html
Whiskey11 is offline  
post #9 of 17 Old October 8th, 2017, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 Boss View Post
How fast are you taking these corners? You have to go pretty fast to get any, if at all, any down force that is going to help with cornering.

Enter the turn under braking and then after the apex accelerate. This will transfer more weight to the rear wheels and help with traction. If you are constant throttle through a corner you are doing it wrong. If anything your going to push or under steer through the corner. If you are losing traction in the middle of the corner you have either too much or not enough throttle. If at a constant speed or neutral weight balance the car should push not break the tires loose. If you are braking or slowing down through the apex you will lose traction too as the weight is on the front. Stay off the gas until you are coming out of the corner.
60-80mph, back country roads.
Thanks for the comments, appreciated.
Supp22 is offline  
post #10 of 17 Old October 8th, 2017, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskey11 View Post
Wings do not have a magic "turn on speed". They are always producing some downforce and always producing some drag. Most wings like this, especially if it's an APR wing, will have about 60mph be the speed at which noticeable downforce starts. Some are less (usually bigger wings like AJ Hartman wings) and some are less (Steeda's wing), but they will always produce some downforce provided air is moving over the wing.


OP: To answer your question, it's an adjustable wing. It probably takes ten minutes to test this for yourself, but yes, you can lower the front to achieve more angle of attack and in theory produce more downforce at lower speeds. The problem you will run into is the steeper the angle, the more likely the wing is to stall out and produce zero downforce and lots of drag while you travel at higher speeds. So steeper angle = more downforce at lower speeds and up UNTIL you reach stall speed on the wing and then it stalls out due to the angle of attack being too aggressive.

As for your tires, they are absolutely part of the problem. If handling is your goal, I'd strongly recommend a significantly better tire. Continental's new ExtremeContact Sport, Michelin's new PSS replacement (Can't remember off the top of my head) or any of the extreme summer tires in smaller widths would actually produce better results. Driver mod is also important.

If you don't already, you should really consider looking up to see if there is an SCCA region in your area that does autocrosses. That will FORCE you to learn how to use the throttle correctly.

Also, when you say "Trak Pak" What exactly are you referring to? That wing was not standard on any 05-10 Mustangs I'm aware of and there was never a "TrakPak" in the 05-10 years. There was a Track Package on the 13-14's but it did not include a wing like this and the FR500 racecars also did not use that wing. The Boss 302R and Boss 302S didn't use that wing either.
The car has an APR widebody kit on it but I don't know if it's the APR wing, this is a 2008 Trak Pak I attached some pictures and if you look at Roush website they show the car produced from them with an adjustable Wing like this. Trak Pak Wing Adjustment-20171008_002229.jpg

Trak Pak Wing Adjustment-20171008_094922.jpg
And it mentions it on the build paper.
From my limited understanding, I thought they made a hundred of these cars every year.
As for tires with the widebody kit, the previous owner added the widest rims which are, 20x12.5 rear and 20x9.5 front. I'm finding my tire size is limited finding tires for the rear and right now don't feel like investing in new rims to go smaller, plus not sure how much I could go without the car looking weird with the widebody kit and the tires disappearing inside the wheel wells. ( I looked up your mentioned tires, don't offer size for the rears)
Thanks, will look into SCCA.
Appreciate your time and input.
Supp22 is offline  
post #11 of 17 Old October 8th, 2017, 05:23 PM
At the Apex pulling 1.28g
 
Whiskey11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: York, Nebraska
Posts: 6,578
                     
iTrader: 1 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to Whiskey11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supp22 View Post
The car has an APR widebody kit on it but I don't know if it's the APR wing, this is a 2008 Trak Pak I attached some pictures and if you look at Roush website they show the car produced from them with an adjustable Wing like this. Attachment 198554

Attachment 198562
And it mentions it on the build paper.
From my limited understanding, I thought they made a hundred of these cars every year.
As for tires with the widebody kit, the previous owner added the widest rims which are, 20x12.5 rear and 20x9.5 front. I'm finding my tire size is limited finding tires for the rear and right now don't feel like investing in new rims to go smaller, plus not sure how much I could go without the car looking weird with the widebody kit and the tires disappearing inside the wheel wells. ( I looked up your mentioned tires, don't offer size for the rears)
Thanks, will look into SCCA.
Appreciate your time and input.
The Continentals come in a 335/25/20 and would be lightyears better for traction than the Nitto's even though they are narrower.

The Michelin Pilot Sport 4S has a 345/30/20 which again, would be lightyears better.

The only other way you are going to be able to put power down better is to make changes to the suspension as I just don't see adding more Angle of Attack on the wing as helping you out much at the speeds you are looking at. I'd strongly recommend looking at shock settings first (if they are even adjustable) and then looking towards geometry changes. A set of rear LCA's and relocation brackets would help put power down coming out of a corner.


Also, that wheel stagger is horrifying... You can fit an 11" wheel up front pretty easy on these cars if you are willing to take the time to get the fitment right. Somewhere around a 32-38 front offset under the stock front fenders. With a wide body kit, you should be able to fit wider. If handling is your goal, I'd strongly encourage balancing out the wheel/tire widths long before ever considering making changes to the car.



2015 Mustang GT/PP Autocross Build Thread:
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-pp-build.html
Whiskey11 is offline  
post #12 of 17 Old October 9th, 2017, 09:47 AM
I Post Entirely Way Too Much
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 13,624
                     
iTrader: 4 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskey11 View Post
The Continentals come in a 335/25/20 and would be lightyears better for traction than the Nitto's even though they are narrower.

The Michelin Pilot Sport 4S has a 345/30/20 which again, would be lightyears better.

The only other way you are going to be able to put power down better is to make changes to the suspension as I just don't see adding more Angle of Attack on the wing as helping you out much at the speeds you are looking at. I'd strongly recommend looking at shock settings first (if they are even adjustable) and then looking towards geometry changes. A set of rear LCA's and relocation brackets would help put power down coming out of a corner.


Also, that wheel stagger is horrifying... You can fit an 11" wheel up front pretty easy on these cars if you are willing to take the time to get the fitment right. Somewhere around a 32-38 front offset under the stock front fenders. With a wide body kit, you should be able to fit wider. If handling is your goal, I'd strongly encourage balancing out the wheel/tire widths long before ever considering making changes to the car.

Hey Whiskey.

Need good traction tires for the rear of my car. 305/45/18 or around that size. Anyways, I have track tires now so I want to get away from the DR's on my daily as I go through them too quickly. I know treadwear and traction are inversely proportional but I need something that is going to last a couple of years and still provide me with decent traction. Not too worried about wet weather traction. I was going to look at Toyo T1R's but haven't seen any in the size I want, or Nitto 555gen2 (not DR). Problem is that I drive rather spirited and the Whipple can get me sideways pretty easily.


Whipple, 3.125" pulley-Comp NSR's-Meziere-Pacesetter L/T's+Outlaws-Level 10 trans-PI 3400-PH driveshaft-Auburn Pro LSD-Richmond 4.10's-CobraJet springs-Viking shocks-BMR control arms, panhard, rear sway bar-and a bunch of other really cool shit
07 Boss is offline  
post #13 of 17 Old October 9th, 2017, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskey11 View Post
The Continentals come in a 335/25/20 and would be lightyears better for traction than the Nitto's even though they are narrower.

The Michelin Pilot Sport 4S has a 345/30/20 which again, would be lightyears better.

The only other way you are going to be able to put power down better is to make changes to the suspension as I just don't see adding more Angle of Attack on the wing as helping you out much at the speeds you are looking at. I'd strongly recommend looking at shock settings first (if they are even adjustable) and then looking towards geometry changes. A set of rear LCA's and relocation brackets would help put power down coming out of a corner.


Also, that wheel stagger is horrifying... You can fit an 11" wheel up front pretty easy on these cars if you are willing to take the time to get the fitment right. Somewhere around a 32-38 front offset under the stock front fenders. With a wide body kit, you should be able to fit wider. If handling is your goal, I'd strongly encourage balancing out the wheel/tire widths long before ever considering making changes to the car.
Thanks for all the info much appreciated.
I need to do a bunch of research to understand offsets, stagger etc.
I wouldn't have a problem going smaller in the rear, especially if it means to save some money on tires.
I don't know if this is a good thing or a bad thing but all the wheels have these spacers on them an inch in width and this is how the fronts are sitting on the fenders and the Rears sit a little bit out from this, actually my driver side rear tire will rub the fender lip on a good bump.
Yes I asked Roush for the paperwork on the suspension and they are completely adjustable both the coils and the shock absorber, I have no idea where the settings are now, hope to get under there in the next week or so.
Interesting comment about the wheel staggering looks like I need to start saving for rims, from what I quickly researched can't get these tires anywhere near close with these size rims.
Also, it's funny if you go on APR's website and they are talking about and advertising the sale of their widebody kit, they mention that by purchasing this kit you will be able to put on these size tires, here's a quote from their website. "This aerodynamic kit increases the front stance by +45mm per front fender and +50mm per rear fender. It allows installation of massive front wheel sizes of 20x9.5 with 285/30/20 profile tires and rear wheel sizes of 20x 12.5 with 345/25/20 profile tires."
Thanks again.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20171009_111104.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	44.1 KB
ID:	198674   Click image for larger version

Name:	20171009_111140.jpg
Views:	26
Size:	54.1 KB
ID:	198682   Click image for larger version

Name:	20171009_111205.jpg
Views:	22
Size:	58.7 KB
ID:	198690  
Supp22 is offline  
post #14 of 17 Old October 10th, 2017, 02:53 AM
At the Apex pulling 1.28g
 
Whiskey11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: York, Nebraska
Posts: 6,578
                     
iTrader: 1 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to Whiskey11
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 Boss View Post
Hey Whiskey.

Need good traction tires for the rear of my car. 305/45/18 or around that size. Anyways, I have track tires now so I want to get away from the DR's on my daily as I go through them too quickly. I know treadwear and traction are inversely proportional but I need something that is going to last a couple of years and still provide me with decent traction. Not too worried about wet weather traction. I was going to look at Toyo T1R's but haven't seen any in the size I want, or Nitto 555gen2 (not DR). Problem is that I drive rather spirited and the Whipple can get me sideways pretty easily.
T1R's are pretty old hat Toyos... Grip wise, I think you'd be better served from something in the Max Performance Summer category than something in the Ultra High Perf Summer simply because of the power problem you have. I think they'd more than meet your needs unless you are just hammering the car all the time on the roads. Heck, a set of 200 TW street tires, with just street driving tend to last over 10k miles. I get about 8k with about 120 autocross runs on them. I'd say, if you can stomach shorter sidewalls, you might consider something, again, from either Continental (ExtremeContact DW or Sport) or the Michelins. They really are fantastic multiuse tires and they tend to offer them in all sorts of sizes for every type of car. A 305/45/18 is going to be impossible to find I think though. That's a really tall tire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Supp22 View Post
Thanks for all the info much appreciated.
I need to do a bunch of research to understand offsets, stagger etc.
I wouldn't have a problem going smaller in the rear, especially if it means to save some money on tires.
I don't know if this is a good thing or a bad thing but all the wheels have these spacers on them an inch in width and this is how the fronts are sitting on the fenders and the Rears sit a little bit out from this, actually my driver side rear tire will rub the fender lip on a good bump.
Yes I asked Roush for the paperwork on the suspension and they are completely adjustable both the coils and the shock absorber, I have no idea where the settings are now, hope to get under there in the next week or so.
Interesting comment about the wheel staggering looks like I need to start saving for rims, from what I quickly researched can't get these tires anywhere near close with these size rims.
Also, it's funny if you go on APR's website and they are talking about and advertising the sale of their widebody kit, they mention that by purchasing this kit you will be able to put on these size tires, here's a quote from their website. "This aerodynamic kit increases the front stance by +45mm per front fender and +50mm per rear fender. It allows installation of massive front wheel sizes of 20”x9.5” with 285/30/20 profile tires and rear wheel sizes of 20”x 12.5” with 345/25/20 profile tires."
Thanks again.
There is nothing wrong with spacers, but it just goes to show how much wheel you'll be able to run. The stock S197 fenders will support an 11" wide wheel with different offsets front and rear (fronts being about 25mm-30mm less aggressive than the rears). An 18x10.5 ET38 will fit at all four corners, with the rears poking slightly, and a 5mm spacer up front when combined with 315 wide tires front and rear.

With a wide body kit adding that much, no reason you shouldn't be able to run your 18x12.5's at all four corners if you wanted to, and 335's at all four.... I wouldn't recommend that wide for a DD as it will follow every rut in every road, but hey, some people are nuts!



2015 Mustang GT/PP Autocross Build Thread:
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-pp-build.html
Whiskey11 is offline  
post #15 of 17 Old October 13th, 2017, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
There is nothing wrong with spacers, but it just goes to show how much wheel you'll be able to run. The stock S197 fenders will support an 11" wide wheel with different offsets front and rear (fronts being about 25mm-30mm less aggressive than the rears). An 18x10.5 ET38 will fit at all four corners, with the rears poking slightly, and a 5mm spacer up front when combined with 315 wide tires front and rear.

With a wide body kit adding that much, no reason you shouldn't be able to run your 18x12.5's at all four corners if you wanted to, and 335's at all four.... I wouldn't recommend that wide for a DD as it will follow every rut in every road, but hey, some people are nuts! [/QUOTE]

Thanks, Whiskey.
I would like to at some point go with smaller tires because I found out that replacing 345x25x20s in the rear is not inexpensive.
I'm running 20-inch rims all the way around you keep mentioning 18's, so of course, that means springing for a new set of rims, which I would like to do at some point.
On that note though can I gather some more Fender clearance vertically by going to an 18-inch rim, even with adding some more sidewall on the tires, the 25s look great but they're awfully thin for DD.
Any advice on tire sizes that will give great handling but are on the more reasonable side of price because they're more used in the general population?
And if I want my tires to stay where they are, out towards the fender Edge, by going with a smaller Tire I'm guessing my spacers are going to have to increase in size otherwise the tires are going to look funny if they go too far in under the fender.
Thanks.
Supp22 is offline  
post #16 of 17 Old November 16th, 2017, 06:35 PM
At the Apex pulling 1.28g
 
Whiskey11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: York, Nebraska
Posts: 6,578
                     
iTrader: 1 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to Whiskey11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supp22 View Post
On that note though can I gather some more Fender clearance vertically by going to an 18-inch rim, even with adding some more sidewall on the tires, the 25s look great but they're awfully thin for DD.
Any advice on tire sizes that will give great handling but are on the more reasonable side of price because they're more used in the general population?
And if I want my tires to stay where they are, out towards the fender Edge, by going with a smaller Tire I'm guessing my spacers are going to have to increase in size otherwise the tires are going to look funny if they go too far in under the fender.
Thanks.
Changing wheel diameter doesn't necessarily mean gaining any clearances to the fender edge, it depends on the tire you chose. If your 18" wheels have tires that have the same overall height (say 25.6") as your 20" wheels then you'll gain nothing to the fender but you'll gain sidewall.

Factory S197 tire heights are 27.3" tall and this is... too tall... IMO... for any reasonable handling. Something in the mid to low 26" overall height is a good compromise between where you are now and factory, but as I said, even if you keep overall height the same going to 18" wheels will give you more sidewall.

As for achieving that stanced look, if you go to a (significantly) smaller width tire, then yes, you'll need some spacers to push the wheels out to where the edge of the tread meets the fender lip. I'd be more worried about overstretching a tire on wide wheels causing lack of wheel protection than the cost of said tires IMO. Replacing tires is one of those "necessary" things that happens annually for some of us and the cost to replace a set of wheels is exponentially higher given their shelf life is measured in half decade to decade increments or more depending on how they are used. Wheels also retain their value better. Buying 20" tires is expensive no matter how you slice it, but sometimes it's the only way to get tires in the widths people want. Only way away from that is to buy wheels that match the tire sizes YOU want. I personally wouldn't go narrower than 285's all the way around if you want any semblance of handling.



2015 Mustang GT/PP Autocross Build Thread:
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-pp-build.html
Whiskey11 is offline  
post #17 of 17 Old November 16th, 2017, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskey11 View Post
Changing wheel diameter doesn't necessarily mean gaining any clearances to the fender edge, it depends on the tire you chose. If your 18" wheels have tires that have the same overall height (say 25.6") as your 20" wheels then you'll gain nothing to the fender but you'll gain sidewall.

Factory S197 tire heights are 27.3" tall and this is... too tall... IMO... for any reasonable handling. Something in the mid to low 26" overall height is a good compromise between where you are now and factory, but as I said, even if you keep overall height the same going to 18" wheels will give you more sidewall.

As for achieving that stanced look, if you go to a (significantly) smaller width tire, then yes, you'll need some spacers to push the wheels out to where the edge of the tread meets the fender lip. I'd be more worried about overstretching a tire on wide wheels causing lack of wheel protection than the cost of said tires IMO. Replacing tires is one of those "necessary" things that happens annually for some of us and the cost to replace a set of wheels is exponentially higher given their shelf life is measured in half decade to decade increments or more depending on how they are used. Wheels also retain their value better. Buying 20" tires is expensive no matter how you slice it, but sometimes it's the only way to get tires in the widths people want. Only way away from that is to buy wheels that match the tire sizes YOU want. I personally wouldn't go narrower than 285's all the way around if you want any semblance of handling.
Thank you.
Presently my rears are 25 3/4 overall and fronts are 26 1/2
Have to stick with what I have and absorb tire cost until I find a good deal on new/used rims, And I have to weigh how much going to an 18 inch will change cornering, I'm guessing quite a bit, Adding two inches to my present sidewall situation would be a huge difference I would think.
Supp22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Forums at Modded Mustangs forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome