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post #1 of 10 Old November 15th, 2017, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Has anyone ordered any aftermarket lights that are worth anything??
I ordered a LED conversion kit from American Muscle, my stock halogens were better!!
So then I tried a 35 watt Canbus HID, from Protuninglab, absolutely horrible!!
Anybody have anything out there that actually helps see better at night than the stock headlights?
I haven't thought about the projector types because I really like the stock big headlight look.
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post #2 of 10 Old November 15th, 2017, 12:04 PM
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I put HID's in my stock housings. They turn night into day but they are obnoxious. I don't drive much at night when there are other cars but the few that pass me the other way are not happy. Never found anything else that I was happy with.

Sidenote: When I pulled mine apart to paint them I removed the little hanging down cup thingy. Not all headlights have these but I'm sure it adds to the glare.




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post #3 of 10 Old November 15th, 2017, 12:53 PM
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You said you got HIDs, and an LED conversion. What color temp (K) were the bulbs? Stock lights are right around the 4500-4700K range usually, or a little lower (towards the yellow light side [daylight]. The clearest/most output color temps will be just a tad higher in the 5000K to 5500K range (pure, white light, no blue tint). As you go up from there into the slight blue (6000K to 7000K), darker blue (7000k - ~8500K), and purples/pinks/greens > 9000K, you lose output. The farther from white light you are the less output you will have.

In a stock housing the cutoff is horrid on HIDs (and LEDs may not work too well due how they reflect, not too sure here, havent done LEDs myself). You will need to adjust where/how you aim your lights for HIDs to work well in stock housings. Also, without a projector, the high beam and low beam of HIDs are practically identical (as there is nothing cutting it off for low beam). This can skew your perception of light output as well, as you wont notice change from high beam and low beam as you would on the stock lights.

Let us know what color temp your bulbs are, and maybe a few pics. I ran DDM tuning brand 35W, 6000k in my 2004 F150, and in my 03 mustang for a while. In the truck on stock housings, it was an amazing change, even with the blue hue. My mustang I couldnt see anything no matter the bulb, because I had super dark housings. I went to an HID retrofit, with clear lenses, and Morimoto 6000K, and the mustang lights up the streets like the factory HID cars now.

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post #4 of 10 Old November 16th, 2017, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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[quote=07 Boss;11917938]I put HID's in my stock housings. They turn night into day but they are obnoxious. I don't drive much at night when there are other cars but the few that pass me the other way are not happy. Never found anything else that I was happy with.

Sidenote: When I pulled mine apart to paint them I removed the little hanging down cup thingy. Not all headlights have these but I'm sure it adds to the glare.

07 Boss
Where did you get your HID's?
What wattage are they?
I was curious about the part you removed, did it have a reflective coating on the inside?
I'm thinking that is hampering a lot of light output, these are aftermarket lights and that thingy part seems to be bigger than the one on my stock lights.

---------- Post added at 01:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:44 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
You said you got HIDs, and an LED conversion. What color temp (K) were the bulbs? Stock lights are right around the 4500-4700K range usually, or a little lower (towards the yellow light side [daylight]. The clearest/most output color temps will be just a tad higher in the 5000K to 5500K range (pure, white light, no blue tint). As you go up from there into the slight blue (6000K to 7000K), darker blue (7000k - ~8500K), and purples/pinks/greens > 9000K, you lose output. The farther from white light you are the less output you will have.

In a stock housing the cutoff is horrid on HIDs (and LEDs may not work too well due how they reflect, not too sure here, havent done LEDs myself). You will need to adjust where/how you aim your lights for HIDs to work well in stock housings. Also, without a projector, the high beam and low beam of HIDs are practically identical (as there is nothing cutting it off for low beam). This can skew your perception of light output as well, as you wont notice change from high beam and low beam as you would on the stock lights.

Let us know what color temp your bulbs are, and maybe a few pics. I ran DDM tuning brand 35W, 6000k in my 2004 F150, and in my 03 mustang for a while. In the truck on stock housings, it was an amazing change, even with the blue hue. My mustang I couldnt see anything no matter the bulb, because I had super dark housings. I went to an HID retrofit, with clear lenses, and Morimoto 6000K, and the mustang lights up the streets like the factory HID cars now.
I got the 5000k
I don't understand what you're talking about the "cutoff" in the stock housing.
I emailed the company to discuss my being unhappy especially since the low beam on one of the bulbs did not work from day one.
When I explained to them that the color difference between the high and low beam we're complete opposites, customer service responded with, " the HIDs are only used on the low beam!! "
(I was not aware of this)
And that the high beams on HIDs are equivalent to an average halogen
What???? Why would I want the 5000k only on the low beam and why would I want the low beam to be better than the high beam?
The purpose of me ordering HIDs was to see better at night not to have a white color only on low beam!!
The company advertises that there HIDs will improve light output by an average of 300%. So can you explain to me because I'm lost as to how you improve light output by 300% but only on low beam and not high beam?? Wouldn't that kind of equate too then you'll be blinding people on low beam??
The company's response to my email I've quoted below.
"The HIDs are only applied to the low beams and not the high beams. High beams would typically use normal halogen lighting. As for the HID bulbs not working, have you done any HID troubleshooting? Perhaps you may have to reverse the polarity in order to have the HIDs work. Because the connection from the ballasts to the vehicle’s wiring harness are a universal setup, you may have to flip the polarity in order to get the wiring to match.
To do this, you would just simply disconnect the way you originally had the ballasts connected to the wiring harness, turn the plug from the ballasts the other way around, almost 180 degrees and connect them back again. Please let me know once you have done so and if anything has changed as far as the lighting output."

I didn't realize there were that many different ways of manufacturing light sockets? Because every light socket on a car I've unplugged and plugged in my life all only go one way because there is a locking mechanism molded into one part of the plug, so you can't turn them around 180 degrees.

Then I could not figure out why I could not get the bulbs to go in the same way on each light, upon closer look they assembled each bulb opposite with the three locking nubs, I'm sure you're aware of what I'm talking about in the sense that one of the nubs is larger and different shape than the other two and you can only install the bulb one way, so that alone makes a huge difference as to how the light is reflected in the housing.

You will see this in the pictures below try not to laugh too hard.

The picture of the white light is only one low beam working, the other picture is the high beams on and both high beams are working but one bulb is obviously opposite then the other as I explained above.

when the car is out on the road and you turn the high beams on you can barely see in front of you the light just goes everywhere 40-50 ft in the air lighting up the tree tops, I could see better with one low beam working then both high beams! Lmao.

And now you're telling me that you're Morimoto retrofit HID's light up the streets like late model HID cars that come stock from the factory?

Because if that's the case that's impressive.

That's exactly something of what I'm trying to accomplish, late model cars with HIDs are great to drive at night.
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post #5 of 10 Old November 16th, 2017, 01:53 AM Thread Starter
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post #6 of 10 Old November 16th, 2017, 11:15 AM
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Here is a link to an imgur album that has a few nighttime pics (in my yard) of the retrofit I did.

https://imgur.com/a/6AlOb

Check out this link for some more info on the cutoff: Headlight Retrofit Output & Alignment | HeadlightRetrofits.com

Basically, cars that have stock HIDs, or cars which have a true retrofit (HID projector housings and HID bulbs/ballasts/etc.) have a "shutter" within the projector that stops the light from going past a certain height, on low beam setting. This gives you a crisp, clean, straight line that you will have light below, but none above. Typically there is a bit of a 'step' in this going from right to left, so that the output is slightly lower when going to oncoming drivers.

In a halogen housing (likely what you have) there is no "shutter" so you get all of the light, all of the time, thus it is reflecting a lot more, and scattered.

IDK what company you bought from, but HID highbeams ARE NOT the same as halogen high beams. Did you get a bi-xenon kit? If so, you bought a kit that has a bulb that SHOULD have a high beam and low beam. With regards to the bulbs themselves, they generally can be oriented two ways, which are 180 degrees opposite of each other. One way puts them in the orientation of low beam as nominal, and high beam pointed up. The other is reversed, with the high beam pointing down. If your lights are 180 degrees opposite each other in orientation, it will look odd. This is what they are refering to. The bulb its self should be able to be turned. Then you simply lock it in with the large retaining nut.

Could you link the kit that you purchased?

I have used DDM bi-xenon kits in the past with good results, and Morimotos are top of the line as well. In either case, you want a bi-xenon kit, so that it is a true hi/low kit in one bulb. If you have multiple bulbs in your headlight housings, then you would need a separate kit for each bulb/bulb type (and these would not be bi-xenon as the seperate bulb type lights just turn on an extra bulb when high beams are active). This is the only way that halogen high beams makes sense here, otherwise it seems you may have bought a poor quality kit.

There is likely a LOT more info than you need, here, to understand what a true retrofit is, but here is a link : https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bl...id-projectors/


Without a retrofit, once you get both bulbs working and in the same direction, you will need to aim your lights down a LOT so that the lows are on the road and not blinding others, and the highs are usable. I still have the DDM 9007 35W kit, with 8k bulbs that I ran prior to getting retrofit housings with the morimoto kit. If you're interested I can make you a good deal. But you would likely need to get a set of bulbs that were lower in color temp, so probably not worth it, and IDK if you mustang uses 9007 or not. I have only ever run 35W kits and they have been fine. I ran 6000K bulbs in headlights and foglights on my 04 F150, and had to aim them down, as I said above, to not blind everyone (especially because the truck was leveled) but they were better than stock. That was a DDM kit as well.

If you could link what aftermarket headlight assembly you have that would help also, if it is smoked at all, it will reduce output. But, I mainly want to see if it is a single bulb for hi/low or multi bulb setup.

Let me know if you have further questions/if anything is unclear.

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post #7 of 10 Old November 16th, 2017, 01:02 PM
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Can't remember the name of the company. It was one of those cheap Chinese companies. My bulb actually moves when you put the high beams on. I think it drops or angles down so the light is reflected higher. That is how my mine work (well headlights currently not working) in regards to the high beam. Yes many HID kits use a separate halogen bulb for the high beams.

No, my little black cover did not have any reflective material on the inside. It is mainly for the direct glare from the light bulb. the light output from your lights is mainly the reflected light, not directly from the bulb so I don't think it makes that big of a difference on how big that thing is. My original headlights didn't have one. I effed them up trying to take them apart for painting so I bought a replacement set and they had the little cups.


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post #8 of 10 Old November 16th, 2017, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
Here is a link to an imgur album that has a few nighttime pics (in my yard) of the retrofit I did.

https://imgur.com/a/6AlOb

Check out this link for some more info on the cutoff: Headlight Retrofit Output & Alignment | HeadlightRetrofits.com

Basically, cars that have stock HIDs, or cars which have a true retrofit (HID projector housings and HID bulbs/ballasts/etc.) have a "shutter" within the projector that stops the light from going past a certain height, on low beam setting. This gives you a crisp, clean, straight line that you will have light below, but none above. Typically there is a bit of a 'step' in this going from right to left, so that the output is slightly lower when going to oncoming drivers.

In a halogen housing (likely what you have) there is no "shutter" so you get all of the light, all of the time, thus it is reflecting a lot more, and scattered.

IDK what company you bought from, but HID highbeams ARE NOT the same as halogen high beams. Did you get a bi-xenon kit? If so, you bought a kit that has a bulb that SHOULD have a high beam and low beam. With regards to the bulbs themselves, they generally can be oriented two ways, which are 180 degrees opposite of each other. One way puts them in the orientation of low beam as nominal, and high beam pointed up. The other is reversed, with the high beam pointing down. If your lights are 180 degrees opposite each other in orientation, it will look odd. This is what they are refering to. The bulb its self should be able to be turned. Then you simply lock it in with the large retaining nut.

Could you link the kit that you purchased?

I have used DDM bi-xenon kits in the past with good results, and Morimotos are top of the line as well. In either case, you want a bi-xenon kit, so that it is a true hi/low kit in one bulb. If you have multiple bulbs in your headlight housings, then you would need a separate kit for each bulb/bulb type (and these would not be bi-xenon as the seperate bulb type lights just turn on an extra bulb when high beams are active). This is the only way that halogen high beams makes sense here, otherwise it seems you may have bought a poor quality kit.

There is likely a LOT more info than you need, here, to understand what a true retrofit is, but here is a link : https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bl...id-projectors/


Without a retrofit, once you get both bulbs working and in the same direction, you will need to aim your lights down a LOT so that the lows are on the road and not blinding others, and the highs are usable. I still have the DDM 9007 35W kit, with 8k bulbs that I ran prior to getting retrofit housings with the morimoto kit. If you're interested I can make you a good deal. But you would likely need to get a set of bulbs that were lower in color temp, so probably not worth it, and IDK if you mustang uses 9007 or not. I have only ever run 35W kits and they have been fine. I ran 6000K bulbs in headlights and foglights on my 04 F150, and had to aim them down, as I said above, to not blind everyone (especially because the truck was leveled) but they were better than stock. That was a DDM kit as well.

If you could link what aftermarket headlight assembly you have that would help also, if it is smoked at all, it will reduce output. But, I mainly want to see if it is a single bulb for hi/low or multi bulb setup.

Let me know if you have further questions/if anything is unclear.
I have a 2008 Mustang so I'm using H- 13s.
Here is the link, if I did it correctly.
I realize the link shows an h-11 system but this is how it is on their website you just tell him you have an h13 and they send you the h13 but it is this setup.
Yes, I have the true hi/low single bulb, but I was unaware at the time that they only use the HID in the low beam.
Thank you for the links much appreciated

https://www.protuninglab.com/35wah11cahid.html

---------- Post added at 11:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 Boss View Post
Can't remember the name of the company. It was one of those cheap Chinese companies. My bulb actually moves when you put the high beams on. I think it drops or angles down so the light is reflected higher. That is how my mine work (well headlights currently not working) in regards to the high beam. Yes many HID kits use a separate halogen bulb for the high beams.

No, my little black cover did not have any reflective material on the inside. It is mainly for the direct glare from the light bulb. the light output from your lights is mainly the reflected light, not directly from the bulb so I don't think it makes that big of a difference on how big that thing is. My original headlights didn't have one. I effed them up trying to take them apart for painting so I bought a replacement set and they had the little cups.
Aha, I guess that'll be a good winter project, taking them apart trying to make that thing a lot smaller somehow, I could see how removing it completely would be hell to look at it and blinding.
Mine are quite large and I would think have to impede the light output somewhat.
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post #9 of 10 Old November 17th, 2017, 07:00 AM
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Every HID vehicle I've had has the HID low beams being normal incandescent lights. I guess HID high beams may be too bright for oncoming traffic... I know I pass many people on the road who are oblivious that they even have their high beams on. That's when I wish I had HID high beams to flash in their faces haha!

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post #10 of 10 Old November 17th, 2017, 10:00 AM
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It isn't clearly stated, for sure, but if you notice they advertise their lights as "xenon" not "bi-xenon". That is your indication that only one set (in your case, low beam) is HID. It's also interesting to me that they sell 4300K (which is stock color), and 6000K but no 5000K in between, and they list the 6000K as "white" when you can clearly see the blue hue to it .

The DDM kit (DDM Tuning: HID and LED Lighting) comes out to ~$70, pre shipping, for H13 Hi/Low, in 5000K, with a relay harness, and mounting brackets. If you have the ability, and the patience, I would return the kit you bought, and get the DDM kit (I say patience because it typically takes 2-4 weeks for them to arrive, they ship direct from china).

These guys (https://www.theretrofitmasters.com/2...retrofits.html) sell custom retrofits. They are likely a bit expensive, but would be a good option to go with HIDs (and give you a proper cutoff like in the DDM tuning images).

Here is a little more specific to retrofits on the 08 era (https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...ustang.814896/). If you plan to keep the car for a while, I would definitely recommend doing a retrofit, that way you get full HID functionality, and safety. If you are patient you may be able to find a retrofit for sale used as well (that is how I got mine)

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